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Fixing a flastscreen to a plasterboard stud wall

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  • 20-09-2013 10:54am
    #1
    Posts: 0


    Morning all, am new to the DIY board, have searched for this topic but i can only find old threads in relation to concrete fixings. Hope posting a new one is ok.

    I need to mount a 32 inch LCD in a plasterboard stud wall. I have a decent heavy duty bracket, but the TV itself is an old-ish model and fairly large/heavy, and the 15 degree tilt down feature on the bracket will be in use so it's likely to be top heavy. I want to make sure i use the best fixing possible in the wall to avoid the obvious accident.

    I've located the wall studs (16" apart as expected) but I'm unsure what fixings to use. The bracket itself came with six 10mmx50mm heavy duty mooring screws, washers, and heavy rawl plugs, but these are obviously for a fixing into a concrete wall. I'm wondering whether i should use the rawl plugs in the wooden studs by pre-drilling with a 10 or 9.5 bit to the right depth, gluing them in to the timber with "no more nails" or similar, then screwing the bracket into them with the supplied mooring screws, or should i be using different fixings for mooring in wood? Should i go straight in to the timber (thru the plaster) with the supplied screws maybe with a 4 or 5 mm pilot hole first to avoid splitting, and do away with the rawl plugs altogether??

    This is further complicated by the fact that there are 6 mounting holes for the bracket (2 top and bottom on the right, left, and centre of the bracket) but the distance between studs mean i can only use the left and right fixings, not the centre ones (no stud in the centre to fix into, so i was planning to use a few hollow wall fixings (the steel ones with a large sharp thread that bite into plaster and give a fixing for a screw) just to tie the bracket into the plasterboard at a few points for extra strength.

    Any advice on fixing into the studs, whether four fixings would support the weight (19kg for the telly, plus maybe another 1kg for the bracket) and in particular what fixings, rawlplugs, adhesives, etc to use (if any) would be very welcome.

    Thanks in advance!


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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,772 ✭✭✭jameshayes


    I’d get myself some 5 x 50’s and screw the bracket straight to the studs

    But if you’re worried you could get a sheet of plywood that is a little smaller than the TV, screw that to the studs in as many places as possible then mount the TV bracket to that…


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Quick update for the benefit of anyone from the future who might be reading back and looking for an answer on this, i mounted the flatscreen into the wall studs through the plasterboard using 3x 50mm M10 heavy duty bolt head screws in each side, left and right, and once i tightened up the 6 fixings you could have hung a car out of it, never mind a television.

    I had to open the hollow wall with a multitool to find the studs (my stud detector was a mile off, i've since binned it) but once i did, it was as simple as drilling pilot holes into the studs with a diameter a couple of mm less than the diameter of the shank of the screw (not the threaded diameter) and using a socket head on my drill to drive the screws in to the studs and tighten them up using a socket wrench.

    Leverage on the screws is better to drive them in tightly, which is why i used the socket wrench and bold head screws for a fixing rather than ordinary slot head or philips head screws and a screwdriver.

    There were no rawl plugs, glue etc used, just bolt head screws with washers to spread the load on the mounting plate. I just made sure the screws i used had heavy threads on them and the pilot holes were exactly the right depth and diameter. The TV has been up over a week now, and hasn't budged by as much as a hair's breadth (I've been checking regularly), so I'm very confident with the fixing.

    Mods, feel free to close thread if needed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭red sean


    That'll never budge! Those screws are called Coach Screws if you're ever ordering online.


  • Registered Users Posts: 439 ✭✭North West


    Hi
    I always these fisher fixings. Mighty job, There is a special tool for fixing. Available in homebase.
    Nw
    33559_P


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    North West wrote: »
    Hi
    I always these fisher fixings. Mighty job, There is a special tool for fixing. Available in homebase.
    Great fixings, agreed. But he got the studs; nothing better in that situation.


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  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Just in case anybody's ever concerned about opening a hollow wall, it's handy enough. Just avoid electrics, plumbing, etc take a regular square or rectangular piece out of it big enough to get your hands, tools, a tape measure etc into. Identify a hollow spot and use a plasterboard saw or better again a reciprocating multitool if you have one (wont cut into loose cables in the wall if you do hit them) to remove a piece, and remember to mark it so you know which way up to replace it later.

    A piece 8-10 inches square is loads to remove, and make sure to put a piece of tape on the outside before you finish the cut so it doesn't drop down inside the wall. A screw in the centre of it to hold it by and pull it out towards you is a useful idea too.

    Once you're finished inside the wall, screw a couple of battens or pieces of MDF on the inside across the hole using plasterboard screws or similar from the outside of the wall in, making sure to drive them ino the plaster, not flush or proud. This is to fix the piece of plaster you removed back onto. Just put it back in place over the hole and screw through it to the battens, again driving your screws into the plaster so they leave a crater you can fill to bury the screws.

    Once it's a all back in place, fill and level it with filler and a trowel, let it set, sand it down flush, and repaint it with a couple of coats of leftover paint and bobs your uncle. If you didnt remember to keep a bit of leftover paint, you can sometimes get little tester pots for a euro or two that will save you shelling out for a new pot, but its always good to hold on to a bit after a painting job for touch ups, repairs and the like.


  • Registered Users Posts: 202 ✭✭Papa_Bear


    North West wrote: »
    Hi
    I always these fisher fixings. Mighty job, There is a special tool for fixing. Available in homebase.
    Nw
    33559_P


    I got a box of these things from lidl before but can never seem to get them to work right. They also came with the setting tool. I can't see what the setting tool does exactly except to tap home the notched flange of the fixing into the wall (which can easily be done with the tap of a hammer or even something lighter). I must be doing something wrong, no?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    Papa_Bear wrote: »
    I got a box of these things from lidl before but can never seem to get them to work right. They also came with the setting tool. I can't see what the setting tool does exactly except to tap home the notched flange of the fixing into the wall (which can easily be done with the tap of a hammer or even something lighter). I must be doing something wrong, no?
    Yep, you are.

    The purpose of the tool is to "spread" the fitting behind the plasterboard,thus securing it, before you actually attach a shelf, bracket, whatever. Otherwise, with the plasterboard, you run into a potential problem of "spinning" the fitting, resulting in no spread behind the board.

    So....

    1. Drill hole and insert the fitting.
    2. Unscrew the bolt completely and then reseat it only a couple of turns ( you want plenty of the bolt head protruding)
    3. Ensure the tool is fully open (pull the small trigger in front of the main handle)
    4. Now you slide the front of the tool around the bolt head (if you look down into the front end, and operate and release the mechanism a few times you will see the mechanics of what it does )
    5. Repeatedly pull and release the leaver until the bolt head is pulled tight.
    6. Release the small trigger and voila!


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Those things only spread the load from a point fixing in plasterboard. Unless you're also fixing into something structural like a beam or a stud somewhere I wouldn't dream of hanging a 20 or 30kg television from them.

    The plasterboard might hold for a while but any bang or jostle that the TV got would risk it coming straight off the wall. Plasterboard just isn't trustworthy enough for heavy loads. Shelves, mirrors, etc yes, but not major loads like a several hundred euro heavy TV.


  • Registered Users Posts: 202 ✭✭Papa_Bear


    dodzy wrote: »
    Yep, you are.

    The purpose of the tool is to "spread" the fitting behind the plasterboard,thus securing it, before you actually attach a shelf, bracket, whatever. Otherwise, with the plasterboard, you run into a potential problem of "spinning" the fitting, resulting in no spread behind the board.

    So....

    1. Drill hole and insert the fitting.
    2. Unscrew the bolt completely and then reseat it only a couple of turns ( you want plenty of the bolt head protruding)
    3. Ensure the tool is fully open (pull the small trigger in front of the main handle)
    4. Now you slide the front of the tool around the bolt head (if you look down into the front end, and operate and release the mechanism a few times you will see the mechanics of what it does )
    5. Repeatedly pull and release the leaver until the bolt head is pulled tight.
    6. Release the small trigger and voila!


    Ah I get it now. Thank you for explaining:)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    Those things only spread the load from a point fixing in plasterboard. Unless you're also fixing into something structural like a beam or a stud somewhere I wouldn't dream of hanging a 20 or 30kg television from them.

    The plasterboard might hold for a while but any bang or jostle that the TV got would risk it coming straight off the wall. Plasterboard just isn't trustworthy enough for heavy loads. Shelves, mirrors, etc yes, but not major loads like a several hundred euro heavy TV.

    Any of the newer LEDs, particularly the 32 - 37 variants have feck all weight in them these days. Mounting to PB wouldn't be a problem.

    That said, for heavy bracket, particularly the tilt an swivels that are moved regularly, I wouldn't be happy without the studs as security.

    But for regular low profile,stationary fixtures, you don't need to be as cautious IMO.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 600 ✭✭✭King Krib


    My 50" plasma is mounted on a stud wall using spring toggles. Been up well over a year and hasn't moved..... yet ;-)


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    dodzy wrote: »
    Any of the newer LEDs, particularly the 32 - 37 variants have feck all weight in them these days. Mounting to PB wouldn't be a problem.

    That said, for heavy bracket, particularly the tilt an swivels that are moved regularly, I wouldn't be happy without the studs as security....

    Yeah, the one i hung is an old heavy hoor of a thing, and it's on a cantilever bracket with a tilt down set at 10 degrees or so it's top heavy, There's a lot of leverage and tension on the upper fixings and compression on the lower ones, there's not a chance plasterboard would hold that. Hanging a smaller/lighter screen on a flat mount, i can see, because the fixings would mostly be subject to shear force, pulling straight down vertically along the wall, but i still wouldn't take a chance in case it got an accidental knock. I've seen a state of the art 50inch smashed to bits after coming out of a plasterboard fixing and it's not a pretty sight. The owner bought it on Saturday, mounted it on Sunday, came home from college on Monday evening and it was in bits on the ground with lumps of the wall all around it.
    King Krib wrote: »
    My 50" plasma is mounted on a stud wall using spring toggles. Been up well over a year and hasn't moved..... yet ;-)

    Brave man. Have you got any young kids around by any chance? I have, and i just wouldn't take the risk. Kids can surprise you with their lack of cop on sometimes....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27,834 ✭✭✭✭ThisRegard


    dodzy wrote: »
    ........
    The purpose of the tool is to "spread" the fitting behind the plasterboard,thus securing it, before you actually attach a shelf, bracket, whatever. Otherwise, with the plasterboard, you run into a potential problem of "spinning" the fitting, resulting in no spread behind the board.
    ..........

    I've been down that road of spinning the fitting, I never realised there was a tool for it, can I get it in any decent, or non decent, hardware or DIY place ? I've a few curtain rails due for hanging.

    I'm looking at the website and I'm a bit confused about the diagram, it looks like they're showing two methods of installation, one with the tool, the other by using the bolt to expand it ?
    http://www.fischer.co.uk/Home/tabid-1429/tabid-1434.aspx/cpage-details/pcategory-1001002003/usetemplate-productdetails/


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    ThisRegard wrote: »
    I've been down that road of spinning the fitting, I never realised there was a tool for it, can I get it in any decent, or non decent, hardware or DIY place ? I've a few curtain rails due for hanging.

    I'm looking at the website and I'm a bit confused about the diagram, it looks like they're showing two methods of installation, one with the tool, the other by using the bolt to expand it ?
    http://www.fischer.co.uk/Home/tabid-1429/tabid-1434.aspx/cpage-details/pcategory-1001002003/usetemplate-productdetails/
    I've only ever seen them in Aldi, and they usually come with the set of various sized toggles. I've one here that you are welcome to borrow if you've no luck getting one elsewhere.

    EDIT: found one.

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-633753-Wall-Anchor-Setting/dp/B000ND6V7K

    Same price here as the full set costs in aldi. But hey, it's an option. There's an Irish tool online supplier selling it for 23€. The ripoff bstrd.


  • Registered Users Posts: 509 ✭✭✭PyeContinental


    North West wrote: »
    Hi
    I always these fisher fixings. Mighty job, There is a special tool for fixing. Available in homebase.
    Nw
    33559_P

    I can see that the OP already has his solution, and needs no more help. However, as the discussion moved on to the pros and cons of the various plasterboard fittings, I feel I have to mention a better solution that hasn't been posted about yet on this thread.

    These Expandet Rosett plasterboard plugs are superior in every way to those metal cavity wall plugs. They come in several colours indicating different supported uses and max loads, but it is the blue ones you will want for almost every application. I've tried them all, and the blue ones are the only ones I could recommend.

    They need no setting like the metal ones, do not suffer from metal fatigue if you loosen and re-do them or over-torque them. They are made from a nylon plastic and are designed to deliberately deform when tightened to form a circular "blob" of tough plastic behind the plasterboard wall that will not break or fatigue if undone and redone. They are a uniform thickness, so need no persuading of the drilled hole to get through like the metal ones.

    I have used them for putting up heavy radiators and kitchen cupboards and presses. You can sit on the radiator and put your full weight on it and it will hold. The plasterboard wall will break before these do.

    They are available with flat heads (better for putting up brackets for TV, radiator, etc) or tapered (better for countersunk wood supports for shelves etc). There is also a choice of standard philips screw or hex socket (allen key) type, or you can get hooks for them instead of screws.

    It should go without saying, but I do not work for the company and have no vested interest in these. I'm offering this advice completely independently and purely because they work so well and are not so well known about.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27,834 ✭✭✭✭ThisRegard


    I googled the Expandet Rosett fittings, found this video, they seem they might manage a set of heavy curtains ! I approach all these plasterboard plugs with scepticism though, I wish I could say I was just once bitten, but umpteenth times bitten, twice shy at this stage for me.



  • Registered Users Posts: 509 ✭✭✭PyeContinental


    Yes, ThisRegard. I too am sceptical due to experience with any great claims made in any infomercial for any product, as the reality is never the same as the hype for various reasons.

    I saw that very promotional video on a monitor on a display shelf in my local (Heatons) hardware store. Hardware stores are probably the only place where I go in for one item and come out with a trolley full of impulse-bought items. I decided I would take a punt on these, and chalk it up to experience if they didn't work as well as claimed.

    I bought one pack of each type to do my own "Which" consumer test :)
    As I said, the red ones, and other coloured ones did not work so well, but the blue ones work just as in the video.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭red sean


    What I've found with most of these plasterboard fixings, is they all do the job but some do it slightly better!
    However, the problem is that the plasterboard itself is liable to break if it's the only surface supporting big weight. Therefore you're always better,if possible, to get a fixing into the batten, wall etc. behind.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27,834 ✭✭✭✭ThisRegard


    Yeah, I removed and sealed most of the old fitting plasterboard fittings, some of them removed themselves, and started to use the battens. There'll be inevitable occasions when there'll be none near the exact spot we want something. For example we're moving a radiator and while we may get the fitting on one side in to battens, the next nearest batten may not be convenient for the other bracket.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭red sean


    I meant more like a big flat screen bracket where the fixings are all concentrated in a small area, like 12"sq. At least with a rad. the fixings are spread apart better.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 27,834 ✭✭✭✭ThisRegard


    North West wrote: »
    Hi
    I always these fisher fixings. Mighty job, There is a special tool for fixing. Available in homebase.

    I'll further update this thread as I think it will be useful for people (verging on the incompetent in this area like me) down the line. I already had a bag of those fittings but as I mentioned I've had the trouble of them spinning before which resulted in it widening the hole and me needing to fill it again with filler so I hunted down the fitting tool over the weekend. Various Woodies and B&Qs didn't have them but like you said Homebase had two different Black and Decker models (Woodies did have a better selection of the Black and Decker Molly fittings though)

    One of the Frequent Use ones, and the Light Use one. The light use one was only around €5
    099009_R_Z001?$TMB$&wid=312&hei=312

    but I needed a few more bolts so picked up a pack of different size bolts and the frequent use tool in the one box for a little over €20.
    993801_R_Z001?$TMB$&wid=312&hei=312

    The PDF came in quite handy too when deciding what I needed.

    http://www.blackanddecker.co.uk/BDBrochureStorage/piranha/range_1.pdf

    Anyway, the tool is brilliant for using the bolts, no more dreading hanging things on plaster for me, simply drill the hole, slide the fixing in with the tool and squeeze, an instant fixing ready to go and they're pretty solid.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭safetyboy


    I am about to hang a 42" TV 17kg on plasterboard as I think my wall is metal studded, I've went for these grip it plugs http://gripitfixings.co.uk/original-gripit/

    Will they be sufficient to hold the TV on plasterboard?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    safetyboy wrote: »
    I am about to hang a 42" TV 17kg on plasterboard as I think my wall is metal studded, I've went for these grip it plugs http://gripitfixings.co.uk/original-gripit/

    Will they be sufficient to hold the TV on plasterboard?

    Never seen them before. Look at the post above. Those fittings are perfect for PB mounting. If you are just going into board, I would only mount on a bracket that has no swivel / extendable adjustment as this adds greatly to the weight.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭safetyboy


    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001GTT0VO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 this is the bracket I have, I got it so I can tate the TV to vertical for xbox games that play that way,


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    safetyboy wrote: »
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001GTT0VO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 this is the bracket I have, I got it so I can tate the TV to vertical for xbox games that play that way,
    In that case, I'd advise against it. Affixing to just plasterboard, I personally never use those brackets which extend or have the support holes in such close proximity. I'd be reinforcing, or using something like this to better distribute the weight across a larger section of board but would obviously restrict you considering your plans for usage.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    Alternatively you could screw a 10mm thick piece of mdf less than the size of the TV onto the wall and spread the weight over that and then mount your bracket onto the mdf


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 762 ✭✭✭PeteFalk78


    I had to open the hollow wall with a multitool to find the studs (my stud detector was a mile off, i've since binned it)

    A tip for anybody trying to find a stud. Have a look at the skirting boards below the area for screw/nail heads. If you come directly upwards you should in theory be directly on same stud.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭red sean


    +1 on that tip Pete.
    I've often run a simple magnet (from an old speaker) along the skirting to find the nail head and get a plumb line from it.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 640 ✭✭✭Tony Beetroot


    Bond the bracket with tech 7


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