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Yale Lock (Night Latch) for UPVC Door

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  • 21-05-2010 9:20am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5


    Hi

    I have a UPVC Front Door, and would like to fit a standard Yale Lock/Night Latch.

    Problem is that the frame is deeper than the door, therefore the standard Yale Locks will not suffice.

    I have spent two months asking every hardware shop, and even two door companies, and no-one can help.

    I have seen these locks on PVC doors in other houses.

    Surely this can't be such a mystery - and someone knows where to get one of these supplied and fitted?!


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 700 ✭✭✭garyh3


    Hi BrianMcGee

    Unfortunatly UPVC Doors do not have the strenght to put in a yale lock. You would need some sort of metal collar on each side of the door to hold the lock.

    regards

    Garyh3


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5 BrianMcGee


    Hi Gary

    Thanks for the quick response. There are at least two people I know who do have yale locks on their upvc doors, and they work very well - are there different types of upvc doors in terms of strength?

    Brian


  • Registered Users Posts: 700 ✭✭✭garyh3


    Hi BrianMcGee

    Im sure they can be done and will work for that purpose, but as a security device Im not so sure. I suspect it woudnt take much to break the lock.

    I live in an estate where 90% of the doors are UPVC and not one has as Yale lock. As luck would have it I have a wooden door and a yale lock as a 2nd lock.

    had a quick look on google and found this from a Locksmith

    "The most vulnerable part of any UPVC door is the panel. One good kick and the thing will pop out. If security bothers you I'd replace the lot with a good quality solid hardwood door and hardwood outerframe. Then you can add as many different locks/bolts as you like"

    regards

    Gary


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5 BrianMcGee


    Hi Gary

    Again thanks for the prompt response.

    I'm not looking for it as a security device, because I've nothing worth stealing!

    All I want is something that will stop my 3 year old daughter from opening the front door from the inside when it's shut :-) And I mean something automatic, I don't want to have to remember to put a chain on, or anything like that, because if I forget once, she gets out.

    So if they can be fitted, even if useless from a security perspective, where can I get it done? Who does it? Where can I buy them? I'm baffled that I can't get this information anywhere! :-)

    Brian


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,555 ✭✭✭antiskeptic


    BrianMcGee wrote: »
    Hi

    I have a UPVC Front Door, and would like to fit a standard Yale Lock/Night Latch.

    Problem is that the frame is deeper than the door, therefore the standard Yale Locks will not suffice.

    I have spent two months asking every hardware shop, and even two door companies, and no-one can help.

    I have seen these locks on PVC doors in other houses.

    Surely this can't be such a mystery - and someone knows where to get one of these supplied and fitted?!

    When you say frame is deeper than door I take it you mean the two (frame/door) aren't level with each other. Can you not just make a wooden spacer to pack things out so that they lock elements are level?

    As ever, a photo would help enormously.

    As for strength - it's never going to be great but in order to stop the lock coming loose in time (the screws will probably work loose) you could also glue the lock to the door (carefully so as not to clog the moving bits). This would stop the working loose element as well as add a bit of strength.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 21,421 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    We have a wooden door and frame, and when the locksmith fitted the Yale lock to ours, he used a specially made aluminium spacer block to bring the piece the latch goes into (keeper?) out far enough. I think our door and frame were a common enough model (Munster Joinery) for him to have had a few of these made up in advance to the right size.

    We use ours for exactly the reason the OP gave just so that when we're at home during the day we don't have to keep remembering to lock/unlock the door all the time. When we're away we use the normal lock in addition to the Yale as usual.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,300 ✭✭✭martinn123


    BrianMcGee wrote: »
    Hi Gary



    I'm not looking for it as a security device, because I've nothing worth stealing!

    All I want is something that will stop my 3 year old daughter from opening the front door from the inside when it's shut :-) And I mean something automatic, I don't want to have to remember to put a chain on, or anything like that, because if I forget once, she gets out.


    Brian

    In most pvc doors, the locking mechanism is in the face of the frame, so if you drill into the frame, from front to back,you will break the locking system. There are two types of handles, lever/lever which allow the door to open from outside by turning the handle, usually on a back door, and lever/pad which need a key to open the door from outside, as`the pad does not open latch. Usually on front doors, as you do not want someone just walking in. have to say I do not think there is a system which operates as you want, so its a chain, or a bolt.
    where you saw the lock on other doors they may be aluminium, not pvc.

    Why not invent one and go on dragons den, you have established there is a market out there.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    martinn123 wrote: »
    In most pvc doors, the locking mechanism is in the face of the frame, so if you drill into the frame, from front to back,you will break the locking system.
    .

    A night latch is placed far enough behind the 3 or 5 point locking system.

    it can go in with out damage. I have done it a few times. On hardwood.

    Im guessing the pvc doors use the same hardware.




    Yale supply metal and plastic spacer block to pack out the receiver for doors that are not flush with the frame.

    I have never done it on a PVC door though . I am guessing to would be tricky to get the hole drilled as most PVC doors have steel frames beneath the surface for strength. I think it a 36 or 32 mm hole. You will need a hole saw. A spade bit would be useless.

    I would love to hear how you get on with your project.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,344 ✭✭✭Thoie


    An alternative solution would be a bell above the door that goes off in your bedroom when the door is opened. Shouldn't bother you too much during the day, but would alert you immediately if she opens the door at night.

    Something like this, but perhaps a bit quieter :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 241 ✭✭tiocimarla


    Its the same as on a wooden door. You can buy blocks from yale providers to pack back of the yale lock or the receiver to marry them happily together.As for whether the door is strong enough or not. A yale lock clamps the door either side so strenght doesnt matter. If you drill at a particularly weak part of the door that is pulling together when you tighten the two screws then you can cut two packers just shy of the width of the hole and thickness of the inside of the door. Put two packers in move them to both sides(if they are slipping put a screw in each one temporarily) and the yale lock will clamp the door against them when you tighten the two screws. When fixing to pvc make sure to use a wide threaded screw as it wont pull off as easy..


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,727 ✭✭✭meercat


    http://www.maglocks.co.uk/acatalog/10010-standard-maglock-s.jpg
    i have fitted these to creches.not cheap but you can fit release switch up high inside and key switch or keypad outside.automatically locks door on closure


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,692 ✭✭✭donaghs


    Hi, I'm very interested in something similar. I have a PC back door like this.

    I know someone with a similar door who's house was broken into by the burglar breaking off the outside handle and fiddling with the lock mechanism. Since then I've been reading about this, and there's a lot of stuff on the web about this.

    I have a similar problem in that the frame is deeper than the door, also as its UPVC, it's not as easy to fit additional locks as wood is. Any ideas on how to get an additional bolt, or locking mechanism onto such as door?


  • Registered Users Posts: 700 ✭✭✭garyh3


    Hi donaghs

    I would improove you Euro lock 1st.

    Change the barrel for an anti pick anti Drill and maybe go for 6 pin rather than 5.

    Then install an anti twist mechanism around the barrel.

    Take the Euro lock out and measure each end to the barrel to give you the euro size. Try and get get one whcih will give the lease amound sticking out from your door so that it cannot be easily twisted.


    You can also look at a barrel that has a snap off between the barrels give you some protection. I prefer the anti twist.

    Like this

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/UAP-HIGH-SECURITY-uPVC-EURO-DOOR-CYLINDER-NICKEL-/270613627415?pt=UK_HaG_Lock_Safes_GL&var=&hash=item84b70f9b67


    I canot find the anti twist but Im sure if you dig around on eaby you can find one.

    Regards

    Gary


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 241 ✭✭tiocimarla


    like i said above but if its easy installation ye want just try 1 or 2 sliding bolt locks. You can screw them in or even use rivets, if you dont have a rivet gun they are dirt cheap and very easy to use. If you dont like the look of a sliding lock then you can buy stylish/decorative ones in good iron mongers. Hope this give ye options at least.

    Just to let ye know PVC doors are the easiest to pry with a crowbar and gain access so dont linger;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 336 ✭✭CBYR1983


    Apologies, but I'm confused.

    How can your daughter open the PvC door from the inside when it's shut?

    (Acknowledging that my terminology may not be used by those in the trade) Is it that you have a "butterfly" or "thumb-turn" lock on the interior of the door?

    Surely you don't leave the door unlocked (if it's lever/lever, then anyone could walk in). Even if it's lever pad, then normally only the catch is engaged.

    If this is your problem, then you can get the barrel changed from "keylock-butterfly" to "keylock-keylock". This would be relataively simple - no drilling or anything. By this I mean you would need to put the key in the door from the inside to lock it. You could then take the key out after it has been locked. When I got a door installed last year they used this type of lock and it means my 3 year old son can't get the door open once I've locked it.

    However, there is a significant risk with this type of lock if it is on a lever/pad. If you leave the key in on the inside and close the door (as I did once and learnt my lesson), you may not be able to put another key in the lock from the outside and you'll have to do a McGyver via the letter box.:o

    It is also a potential fire risk. As a result, I leave my key in the door (on the inside obviously) all the time. Come to think of it - there is an argument to suggest that this shouldn't be allowed under fire regulations.
    Maybe you don't want this after all!:rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 336 ✭✭CBYR1983


    By the way, I think what you're saying by the door and frame not being level is that your door is double-rebated (with two seals - one on door, one on frame).

    If the door is open in then the door is deeper than the frame on the inside (And wider on inside than outside)

    Most older wooden doors are only single-rebated, so they were flush with frame from inside.

    However, as other lads are saying many modern wooden doors are double-rebated so there may be old style yale locks available for these. If your PVC door frame has steel running through it it should hold.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,796 ✭✭✭Calibos


    Don't want to start a new thread for a similar question.

    I've a Munster Joinery wooden front door. The door is level with the frame. I think it has a keylock-keylock described earlier. ie. a door handle on each side and a keylock on each side. Its one of those mechanisms where unlocked, the handle on the inside and also the handle on the outside opens the door. To lock the door the handle on either side must be pushed up to engage the 3 point locking mechanism bolts before the key can be turned to fully lock the door.

    Our problem with this is not a child being able to open the door from the inside(well except when we have visitors with kids). Its the fact that unlocked, anyone could walk in from the street.

    However when locked, the person answering the door has to go rooting around in pockets or handbags for the key to open it. If a key is left in the door, the door still has to be answered by someone even if the person at the door has their own key because the door can't be unlocked from the outside when a key is in the lock on the inside.

    Finally, if someone comes in late at night worse for wear, one has to hope they remember to lock the door behind them rather than just closing it. I have become paranoid about this so no matter what the hour, if I hear someone come in late I have to go downstairs to make sure they locked the door behind them, otherwise someone could get in very quitely during the night just by pulling the handle. At least with a Yale lock, even if someone forgot to lock it, the act of closing the door behind them would mean the door couldn't be quietly opened from the outside but would require some force and noise to open, ie. enough to wake us.

    So.......

    I got myself a yale Lock in Woodies and was just about to fit it when my Homer Simpson DOH! moment hit me.

    What connects the handle to the locking pins top and bottom. ie. when you push the handle up to engage the pins, is there a rod/chain running up inside the frame of the door to push the pins out. My worry is, what if the 1.25" hole I have to drill through the door for the yale lock barrel overlaps the connecting rod/chain for the locking pins.

    Now another thought did occur to me. The Yale lock could be fitted above the height of the top locking pin mechanism and thus the barrel of the yale would not interfere with anything but this is quite high on the door. While all adults in the house could reach it, its a bit of a stretch for some and aesthetically it might look weird with a key barrel so high on the outside and the yale lock so high on the inside.

    Is there anyway I can find out how far in from the edge of the door the 3 point lock system and its connecting mechanisms extends so I could see whether the Yale locking barrel hole will interfere with it or not?


  • Registered Users Posts: 603 ✭✭✭metalgear2k2


    I worked in the service dept of Munster Joinery, they can supply the special recievers for the alu and pvc doors.

    its no problem to fit them as the 3-5 point locking system is only 5-10mm deep in the door from the edge.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,796 ✭✭✭Calibos


    I worked in the service dept of Munster Joinery, they can supply the special recievers for the alu and pvc doors.

    its no problem to fit them as the 3-5 point locking system is only 5-10mm deep in the door from the edge.

    Excellent mate. Thanks for that. According to the Yale template the edge of the 1.25" hole that needs to be drilled out for the keylock barrel is at least 1.5 inches in from the edge of the door. I'll be DIY'ing it so :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 nickle


    Question:

    My 5-point aluminium door has been locked - somehow - I cannot figure out how - in the following way, and I cannot open it:

    the centre handle-operated spring-tongue is in the correct slot but two other bolts are extended in the locked position against the inside face of the door jamb.

    The circular locking stub turns but has no effect- as it is not connected to the locking bolts- broken free?

    The other three bolts are apparently extended or slotted out of view but I am bot of the view that they are in their correct slots-tracks.

    The door is 'kinked'- the door-handle area is level with the jamb but the top and bottom sections are held in an off-set position from the jamb- by the bolts (held out of their slot-positions) against the inner face of the jamb. A slightly bow-shape!

    What am I to do?

    Is this a common occurrence?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5 ecca


    I have exactly this problem with my front UPVC door - you have to lock it every time you come in to stop anyone walking in off the street, it's a nuisance.
    I've just thought of a simple solution which I'll be looking at tomorrow.
    If the outside handle was disconnected from the locking mechanism altogether then the simple closing of the door would mean that a key would be required to get in from the outside, the handle would do nothing.
    The door would still open from the inside as normal.
    I've just tried my door and when the key turns the lock from the outside, it opens the door.
    First thoughts are that this exactly emulates a Yale type lock.
    Can anyone see why it wouldn't work ?
    Cheers,
    Eric


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 ecca


    Yes, there is a problem.
    You wouldn't be able to set the bolts and lock the door from the outside because the handle would be disabled.
    Duh !


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 ecca


    ............. but if the handle was allowed only to lift .............


  • Registered Users Posts: 700 ✭✭✭garyh3


    Don't think that would work as you have to set the locks by putting the handle up and then when the door needs to open you need the down to open the door


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 ecca


    Hi Gary, you're right, I realised as soon as I posted which is why I straight away posted the acknowledgement . My door doesn't need the handle to open it - the key opens it so back to m 3rd posting, what if the handle only turned up, not down ?
    I took the handle off this morning but there's no room in it to do anything, it's too narrow.


  • Registered Users Posts: 700 ✭✭✭garyh3


    To be honest there is not a lot you can do with a UPVC door to add extra security or to have the door lock behind you with the euro locks. Your better off replacing the door with a door that can take a different lock.


    Cheers

    Gary


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 ecca


    Project abandoned.
    The outside handle is required to operate both up and down to engage the locks.
    Ah well........


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