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Vokera Mynute Issues: can anyone advise please

  • 24-08-2015 3:23pm
    #1
    sooty11
    Registered Users Posts: 131 ✭✭


    Hi all

    My situation is as follows. Boiler stopped working a few weeks ago. Initial issue was that it would not fire up. (Flashing green for a few minutes then going to red light)

    So I a plumber out to check first. He said it was possibly the PCB needed replacing and to call the Vokera engineer
    Vokera engineer called out - replaced pcb did a service. He said I needed a plumber to check filling valve and zonevalve wiring (boiler still not firing)

    I got the Plumber and Electrcian out to check these. zonevalve wiring Wiring was fixed. Plumber confirmed nothing wrong with filling valve (boiler still not firing)
    Plumber advised to get Vokera engineer again to check the water pressure switch.

    Vokera engineer called out - said that rads upstairs were full of air and zonevalve not closing when the thermostat on cylinder was turned down.(boiler still not firing)
    Bled the rads
    Turned on boiler. I could hear it filling (well what sounded like water passing through) but then went red after 10 mins or so ((boiler still not firing)

    I got the Plumber and Electrcian out to check these again. They did their checks. Electrcian confirmed all wiring is fine. Plumber reported no power going up to the fan and to get the Vokera engineer again, maybe a faulty pcb.

    I am at an absolute loss as to what to do. Not to mind the amount this has cost me so far in call outs
    I have scheduled the engineer again and the plumber for the end of the week to both be there at the same time as they are sending me around in circles.
    I am desperately asking for advise or help at this stage.

    Thanks


Comments

  • #2
    youtheman
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,292 ✭✭✭youtheman


    I have a Vokera boiler so I have some appreciation of what you are experiencing. Its either a controls problem (zone valves, control panel and thermostats - all external) or a boiler problem (PCB, water pressure switch - all internal). Looks like it was originally a combination of both, but both parties claim they have sorted their respective areas. To determine if it is a wiring problem you just need to get the electrician to confirm that any one of your zone valves (all wired in parallel) are giving a closed signal to the boiler. He can do this easily with a Voltmeter, and once he does this then he is in the clear. Then its down to the Boiler man.

    You mention air in the radiators. This should not be happening, and anyway a drop in pressure should have nothing to do with the zone valves. I'd check by bleeding the radiators again. When you are finished check the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler to see that the auto-fill valve has allowed the system to be pressurised again (as you'll have bled water from the system so the pressure should drop before the auto fill valve fills it up again).


  • #3
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,840 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    sooty11 wrote: »
    Hi all

    My situation is as follows. Boiler stopped working a few weeks ago. Initial issue was that it would not fire up. (Flashing green for a few minutes then going to red light)

    So I a plumber out to check first. He said it was possibly the PCB needed replacing and to call the Vokera engineer
    Vokera engineer called out - replaced pcb did a service. He said I needed a plumber to check filling valve and zonevalve wiring (boiler still not firing)

    I got the Plumber and Electrcian out to check these. zonevalve wiring Wiring was fixed. Plumber confirmed nothing wrong with filling valve (boiler still not firing)
    Plumber advised to get Vokera engineer again to check the water pressure switch.

    Vokera engineer called out - said that rads upstairs were full of air and zonevalve not closing when the thermostat on cylinder was turned down.(boiler still not firing)
    Bled the rads
    Turned on boiler. I could hear it filling (well what sounded like water passing through) but then went red after 10 mins or so ((boiler still not firing)

    I got the Plumber and Electrcian out to check these again. They did their checks. Electrcian confirmed all wiring is fine. Plumber reported no power going up to the fan and to get the Vokera engineer again, maybe a faulty pcb.

    I am at an absolute loss as to what to do. Not to mind the amount this has cost me so far in call outs
    I have scheduled the engineer again and the plumber for the end of the week to both be there at the same time as they are sending me around in circles.
    I am desperately asking for advise or help at this stage.

    Thanks

    If I were you I'd get an Rgi plumber whose able to wire heating systems. It'll save you having to deal with 3 guys.


  • #4
    sooty11
    Registered Users Posts: 131 ✭✭sooty11


    Hi
    Thanks for your responses...


    "To determine if it is a wiring problem you just need to get the electrician to confirm that any one of your zone valves (all wired in parallel) are giving a closed signal to the boiler. He can do this easily with a Voltmeter, and once he does this then he is in the clear."

    ANS: Yep electrician has already confirmed this on his last visit

    "I'd check by bleeding the radiators again"

    ANS: Done twice on two different days last week in an attempt to get it going

    "If I were you I'd get an Rgi plumber whose able to wire heating systems. It'll save you having to deal with 3 guys"

    ANS: plumbers were RGI (but not for wiring) who advised the vokera engineer is required on both occasions. (two different guys due to availability on short notice)

    im trying to line up all three for the next visit....its crazy


  • #5
    Robbie.G
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    sooty11 wrote: »
    Hi
    Thanks for your responses...


    "To determine if it is a wiring problem you just need to get the electrician to confirm that any one of your zone valves (all wired in parallel) are giving a closed signal to the boiler. He can do this easily with a Voltmeter, and once he does this then he is in the clear."

    ANS: Yep electrician has already confirmed this on his last visit

    "I'd check by bleeding the radiators again"

    ANS: Done twice on two different days last week in an attempt to get it going

    "If I were you I'd get an Rgi plumber whose able to wire heating systems. It'll save you having to deal with 3 guys"

    ANS: plumbers were RGI (but not for wiring) who advised the vokera engineer is required on both occasions. (two different guys due to availability on short notice)

    im trying to line up all three for the next visit....its crazy

    Plumbers might have been rgi but they don't seem to know how to repair boilers.
    Part of the course work to become rgi is electrical wiring ,boilers,zone valves etc.
    So they should know the basics and be able to rule out an electrical problem
    One of the fault finding items on Vokera is to bridge out the external controls which will rule out system wiring and bring it back to boiler only


  • #6
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭ [Deleted User]


    sooty11 wrote: »
    Hi
    Thanks for your responses...


    "To determine if it is a wiring problem you just need to get the electrician to confirm that any one of your zone valves (all wired in parallel) are giving a closed signal to the boiler. He can do this easily with a Voltmeter, and once he does this then he is in the clear."

    ANS: Yep electrician has already confirmed this on his last visit

    "I'd check by bleeding the radiators again"

    ANS: Done twice on two different days last week in an attempt to get it going

    "If I were you I'd get an Rgi plumber whose able to wire heating systems. It'll save you having to deal with 3 guys"

    ANS: plumbers were RGI (but not for wiring) who advised the vokera engineer is required on both occasions. (two different guys due to availability on short notice)

    im trying to line up all three for the next visit....its crazy

    The Vokera engineer should be taking more interest in proving his points as he's the one bitching, (linking out the external controls is a simplistic method of proving the external controls are defective and getting the boiler to fire).

    When I am in a situation like this where I am advising a home owner I find the easiest thing is to look to talk to the home owners tame RGI to talk thru my findings, this saves Chinese whispers.

    See if you can get them talking to each other on the phone to save yourself anymore grief.


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  • #7
    K.Flyer
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    sooty11 wrote: »
    Hi
    Thanks for your responses...
    [...]
    im trying to line up all three for the next visit....its crazy

    That's not crazy, that's mental

    These guys are messing you about, get rid of them.
    Save your money and your time and get a good RGI to your home who understands and can work on all aspects of your heating system.
    Someone who can find the faults, explain to you what is wrong and be capable of rectifying the issues.


  • #8
    DGOBS
    Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    What area are you in, someone here maybe able to help.

    BTW, which Vokera boiler? (24m?)


  • #9
    sooty11
    Registered Users Posts: 131 ✭✭sooty11


    DGOBS wrote: »
    What area are you in, someone here maybe able to help.

    BTW, which Vokera boiler? (24m?)


    Balbriggan area. Yes a 24m

    The engineer is scheduled for friday again. I really need some backup with me.
    Trying now to get the last rgi guy to be there aswell. Its awkward though because Vokera cant commit to a time due to coming from another other job. Best they can estimate is a time window of "late morning". But will give 30 mins notice of arrival.....


  • #10
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭ [Deleted User]


    sooty11 wrote: »
    Balbriggan area. Yes a 24m

    The engineer is scheduled for friday again. I really need some backup with me.
    Trying now to get the last rgi guy to be there aswell. Its awkward though because Vokera cant commit to a time due to coming from another other job. Best they can estimate is a time window of "late morning". But will give 30 mins notice of arrival.....

    Wouldn't it be nice if you could give them a ruff estimate for when you'd pay them like just after they get it fixed.


  • #11
    sooty11
    Registered Users Posts: 131 ✭✭sooty11


    K.Flyer wrote: »
    That's not crazy, that's mental

    These guys are messing you about, get rid of them.
    Save your money and your time and get a good RGI to your home who understands and can work on all aspects of your heating system.
    Someone who can find the faults, explain to you what is wrong and be capable of rectifying the issues.


    If anyone can recomend an RGI that is familiar with all aspects of a heating system and maybe give some more insight, id really appreciate it. I am getting desperate now. I am driving 4 hours (again) to get to the house to be there on Friday. I just fear ill be told 'you need the vokers engineer'


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  • #12
    DGOBS
    Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Firstly, what does the water pressure gauge read on the boiler? (gauge on the left hand side)
    Second, when the boiler 'goes red' is it flashing or a solid red?

    It's not an external control issue, (motorised valve etc.) as this wouldn't give you the fault light! (period)

    If there is a water pressure on the gauge of 1-1.5 bar, then it's not a water pressure issue, but you should not be hearing gushing through the boiler, as this indicates air in central heating circuit, make sure all the rads are vented and the system pressure is restored to 1-1.5 bar (when system is cold)

    You should not need an electrician for any of this work!

    There is one or two lads on here from that area, hopefully one will give you a shout.


  • #13
    sooty11
    Registered Users Posts: 131 ✭✭sooty11


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Firstly, what does the water pressure gauge read on the boiler? (gauge on the left hand side)
    Second, when the boiler 'goes red' is it flashing or a solid red?

    It's not an external control issue, (motorised valve etc.) as this wouldn't give you the fault light! (period)

    If there is a water pressure on the gauge of 1-1.5 bar, then it's not a water pressure issue, but you should not be hearing gushing through the boiler, as this indicates air in central heating circuit, make sure all the rads are vented and the system pressure is restored to 1-1.5 bar (when system is cold)

    You should not need an electrician for any of this work!

    There is one or two lads on here from that area, hopefully one will give you a shout.

    Thanks dgobs!
    Solid red.
    originally gauge pin was way down as if showing no pressure. Plumber then came out to check water pressure. Confirmed water pressure was fine and maybe a fault the gauge itself or pressure switch....vokera back out again etc etc
    So you can see where this is going around in circles...
    Ive lined up enginneer and rgi for friday. Surely be to god they will sort it between them.


  • #14
    DGOBS
    Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Wouldn't say there was a problem with the gauge, and if so, ask your plumber to fit an external gauge wherever your filling loop is (not expensive). Or else how can he confirm the water pressure is fine? (he couldn't measure it) manufacturer states 0.5bar minimum required


    PS, do not pay anyone until they fix the problem....

    Solid red on that boiler is usually a thermistor problem, or the PCB (usually the former!) as the Vokera engineer did he change the thermistor?


  • #15
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,840 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Wouldn't say there was a problem with the gauge, and if so, ask your plumber to fit an external gauge wherever your filling loop is (not expensive). Or else how can he confirm the water pressure is fine? (he couldn't measure it) manufacturer states 0.5bar minimum required


    PS, do not pay anyone until they fix the problem....

    Solid red on that boiler is usually a thermistor problem, or the PCB (usually the former!) as the Vokera engineer did he change the thermistor?

    I'd say if you looked into the back of a Vokera service van, it'd be full of thermistors and heat exchangers :)


  • #16
    DGOBS
    Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Not if systems were clean and inhibited!


  • #17
    sooty11
    Registered Users Posts: 131 ✭✭sooty11


    I'm happy to report I finally got sorted today.
    The non return valve was replaced....

    Vokera guy decided to check that pipe and saw no water whatsoever and guessed a blockage.
    Plumber then replaced the non return valve and off she flowed.
    Boiler then firing successfully.

    Thanks for all the replies and pm's. Really appreciated it when I was really lost this week as to what to do next.

    Something to note for others in future re the pressure gauge... Vokera guy explained the needle on mine would never rise. I have a small tank in the attic..(not coming from mains)...therefore the gauge means nothing for this setup...
    I hope I've worded that right.....


  • #18
    DGOBS
    Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    you should still see 0.2 of a bar from the pressure in your tank (shouldn't be at absolute zero)


  • #19
    K.Flyer
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    DGOBS wrote: »
    you should still see 0.2 of a bar from the pressure in your tank (shouldn't be at absolute zero)

    Unless its full of cack from a very dirty system.


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