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Skirting Board nailed to radiator pipe

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  • 14-03-2014 12:34am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 919 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    Getting the kitchen painted tomorrow and in my eagerness to get it prepped I pulled off a warped piece of skirting that was fixed to a radiator pipe :( guess that's the cause of the warping identified I've managed to stem the flow by shutting off the heating top up, all the radiators and reinserting the nail into the pipe.

    How do I go about fixing this? Kango out around the pipe cut it and join? I've attached a pic of the pipe and nail.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 6,124 ✭✭✭Invincible


    n0brain3r wrote: »
    Hi all,

    Getting the kitchen painted tomorrow and in my eagerness to get it prepped I pulled off a warped piece of skirting that was fixed to a radiator pipe :( guess that's the cause of the warping identified I've managed to stem the flow by shutting off the heating top up, all the radiators and reinserting the nail into the pipe.

    How do I go about fixing this? Kango out around the pipe cut it and join? I've attached a pic of the pipe and nail.

    Use a lump hammer and chisel, less chance of doing more damage,pipe should not being wall without having some insulation on it, apart from heat loss, cement not good for life of copper pipe.Cut pipe and fit joiner, try and get some insulation on it after. Maybe it's not copper pipe after looking at it again?


  • Registered Users Posts: 744 ✭✭✭dpofloinn


    First you need to drain down the heating system then you will need to chase back to a reasonable distance either side of the puncture to allow for some play you will need 2 1/2" 310s, 4 inserts ,ptfe, some spanners, and some 1/2" pipe cut the pipe cleanly and dont squash it and make sure that the pipe is all the way into the fitting before you compress it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    dpofloinn wrote: »
    First you need to drain down the heating system then you will need to chase back to a reasonable distance either side of the puncture to allow for some play you will need 2 1/2" 310s, 4 inserts ,ptfe, some spanners, and some 1/2" pipe cut the pipe cleanly and dont squash it and make sure that the pipe is all the way into the fitting before you compress it

    Good advice, would you get away with one fitting? i.e cut pipe at damage and put one 310 to rejoin it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 744 ✭✭✭dpofloinn


    You might, but I think no matter how tight you cut it you would still come up short and wouldnt have the play to get a secure fitting on it. I say this because usually nail punctures also tend to crush the pipe in the area around the puncture so I reckon you would have to cut away about 1/2" of the pipe to get 2 clean ends which would bring you outside the range of the joiner , if the pipe was just sliced you probabably would get away with just one joiner


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,261 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    better to have more fittings than not enough,i have a case with different connectors and sizes in case the worst happens,

    when you start removing cement how many curses will you let rip,oops i did it again another hole


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    dpofloinn wrote: »
    You might, but I think no matter how tight you cut it you would still come up short and wouldnt have the play to get a secure fitting on it. I say this because usually nail punctures also tend to crush the pipe in the area around the puncture so I reckon you would have to cut away about 1/2" of the pipe to get 2 clean ends which would bring you outside the range of the joiner , if the pipe was just sliced you probabably would get away with just one joiner

    Very true completely agree, there could be the off chance of getting some slack on the pipe maybe which would be fortunate.


  • Registered Users Posts: 919 ✭✭✭n0brain3r


    Thanks for all the replies guys.

    So my shopping list
    Masonary chisel (The return is buried there somewhere too so kango may have been a bit keen!)

    2 1/2" 310s
    4 inserts
    ptfe tape?
    1/2" pipe pex?

    There is a drain valve in the hotpress but not on any of the rads looks like there might be one on the boiler(gas) too but it's behind the cover and don't want to go near that I've enough problems!

    The radiators are all dropped down the walls so I'm guessing draining from one would leave the others full? I've shut off all radiators and the feed if I slacken the nut on the radiator affected and drain from there will that be enough?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,261 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    what i got fitted to rad in hall was a tap to drain water out the front if needed as the last drain was on old boiler in kitchen long ago replaced,might have to open valves on rads to drain and vent when finished also need to stop water from filling up boiler if automatic,mine has 2 levers in hot press to turn to fill when needed.

    some plumbers if fast enough use freeze spray to stop water from flowing so no need for draining whole system.


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Stay away from the freeze spray, can and lots of times ends in tears!


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,863 ✭✭✭gifted


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Stay away from the freeze spray, can and lots of times ends in tears!

    Used those cans a few months ago in a live environment, the sweat was running off me in case they popped. Told the boss never again, worth the few bob to hire the electric freeze kit or better still drain the system .


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  • Registered Users Posts: 919 ✭✭✭n0brain3r


    Got the job done with a single 310 fitting. Thanks again for the help


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    I have an electric freezer, great for certain stuff


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Stay away from the freeze spray, can and lots of times ends in tears!

    I actually like the freeze cans. If done correctly. I don't have to use them often, so no financial need for me to get electric freeze kit.

    Any body used rubber cone shape plugs on expansion and cold feed in the heating tank?
    Great if tank connectors are smooth bore. I often do it that way.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,863 ✭✭✭gifted


    DGOBS wrote: »
    I have an electric freezer, great for certain stuff

    We have the freezer blanket in work, have used it on 2 1/2" copper with CO2...strange watching the ice form around the blanket and then cutting the pipe and a big block of ice in the pipe :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,734 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    gifted wrote: »
    We have the freezer blanket in work, have used it on 2 1/2" copper with CO2...strange watching the ice form around the blanket and then cutting the pipe and a big block of ice in the pipe :)

    I wonder how much pressure behind the ice plug would it take to shot the ice like a cannonball


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 914 ✭✭✭shane 007


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    I wonder how much pressure behind the ice plug would it take to shot the ice like a cannonball

    I have an electric freeze master that freezes upto 1" pipes. Had it once on an oil boiler flow pipe to change the AAV & PRV. Nicely frozen on the flow, pump valve on return off, I decided to unplug the unit whilst changing the components so it wouldn't have that long to defrost.
    Just picked up the AAV & heard a crack noise. Then whoosh. Water hitting the ceiling. Luckily, I had the AAV made up ready to go on & I was able to slap it on. I was drowned though. Homeowner had a good laugh at me....
    It will only happen me once! It remains plugged in until I'm finished now.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,261 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    now was the home owner a woman and had eyes on you so you needed a very cold shower :D:D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 914 ✭✭✭shane 007


    greasepalm wrote: »
    now was the home owner a woman and had eyes on you so you needed a very cold shower :D:D

    Sorry nothing that exotic or wishful. He was a farmer just in from mucking out cowsh1te & probably would have benefited more from the 1.5bar gush of water than I did.


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