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The "reset" button on a SL1210mk5

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    #32
    BaZmO*
    Registered Users Posts: 18,625 ✭✭✭✭BaZmO*


    Scubadevils wrote: »
    I suppose even being aware that they are not properly calibrated is somewhat annoying, even if it doesn't actually make a difference.
    My starting point for playing most tracks has always been around +2 so it's never really a problem. It's just good to finally have a definitive reason as to why the pitch always tended to jump around the green light zero, in fact, it makes perfect sense now.

    But yeah, it's annoying that it's not perfectly calibrated, but it's not too difficult to fix, as explained in the video.

    Scubadevils wrote: »
    Fck that, just read over the description of how to remove the pitch lock and I definitely would not take that risk - snipping wires and removing resistor 'TP17' :eek:
    Haha. It seems a crazy thing to do when you could just calibrate it, which is something I might have a look at doing sometime.


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    #33
    Scubadevils
    Subscribers Posts: 8,322 ✭✭✭Scubadevils


    BaZmO* wrote: »
    My starting point for playing most tracks has always been around +2 so it's never really a problem. It's just good to finally have a definitive reason as to why the pitch always tended to jump around the green light zero, in fact, it makes perfect sense now.

    But yeah, it's annoying that it's not perfectly calibrated, but it's not too difficult to fix, as explained in the video.



    Haha. It seems a crazy thing to do when you could just calibrate it, which is something I might have a look at doing sometime.

    I always assumed the jump at +/- 0 was just because there was a physical element at 0 so a less smooth or jump in transition of pitch, if that makes sense!

    Yeah I might try to calibrate sometime - definitely going to continue living with the pitch lock though, no way am I messing around with no TP17!


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    #34
    BaZmO*
    Registered Users Posts: 18,625 ✭✭✭✭BaZmO*


    Scubadevils wrote: »
    I always assumed the jump at +/- 0 was just because there was a physical element at 0 so a less smooth or jump in transition of pitch, if that makes sense!
    I always assumed the same thing too. You can take the click out (it's just a little ball) to make it a smooth transition through zero and I often toyed with the idea of doing it but apparently it's a really tricky thing to do so I thought better of it. :edit: it's actually mentioned earlier on in this thread :/

    Scubadevils wrote: »
    no way am I messing around with no TP17!
    Haha. Why did I read that in a Mr.T voice?! "I ain't messin with no TP17 foool!"


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    #35
    Scubadevils
    Subscribers Posts: 8,322 ✭✭✭Scubadevils


    BaZmO* wrote: »
    Haha. Why did I read that in a Mr.T voice?! "I ain't messin with no TP17 foool!"

    Ha - I had that more or less in mind, I was going to add 'nigga' at the end but didn't think it would be too pc... :pac:


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    #36
    eZe^
    Registered Users Posts: 7,046 ✭✭✭eZe^


    I'm going to do both of those hacks in a few hours and tell you how I get on. Snipping a resistor / wire is no big deal at all, they're easily resoldered. If it required a huge amount of soldering work to begin with I wouldn't risk it, but this is minor work really. I'll let you know how I get on.


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    #37
    BaZmO*
    Registered Users Posts: 18,625 ✭✭✭✭BaZmO*


    eZe^ wrote: »
    I'm going to do both of those hacks in a few hours and tell you how I get on. Snipping a resistor / wire is no big deal at all, they're easily resoldered. If it required a huge amount of soldering work to begin with I wouldn't risk it, but this is minor work really. I'll let you know how I get on.

    You don't need to do the two of them. If you calibrate the pitch slider you will only have one zero value so there is no need to disable the Quartz lock.


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    #38
    eZe^
    Registered Users Posts: 7,046 ✭✭✭eZe^


    BaZmO* wrote: »
    You don't need to do the two of them. If you calibrate the pitch slider you will only have one zero value so there is no need to disable the Quartz lock.

    But doesn't quartz lock (even when calibrated so that true 0 is at the centre of the pitch fader) mean that when any pressure applied to the turn table (while the 0 light is on) the motor overcompensates in an unnatural manner? That's my understanding of it anyway. Infact, quartz lock is probably the thing that should be disabled when calibrated correctly, as the 0 pitch section would be unneccessary.


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    #39
    BaZmO*
    Registered Users Posts: 18,625 ✭✭✭✭BaZmO*


    eZe^ wrote: »
    But doesn't quartz lock (even when calibrated so that true 0 is at the centre of the pitch fader) mean that when any pressure applied to the turn table (while the 0 light is on) the motor overcompensates in an unnatural manner?
    Yeah, but what difference does that make? The only time you'd be applying any pressure is when you're slowing down the platter with your finger.

    eZe^ wrote: »
    Infact, quartz lock is probably the thing that should be disabled when calibrated correctly, as the 0 pitch section would be unneccessary.
    Oh my brain is starting to hurt now!


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    #40
    eZe^
    Registered Users Posts: 7,046 ✭✭✭eZe^


    BaZmO* wrote: »
    Yeah, but what difference does that make? The only time you'd be applying any pressure is when you're slowing down the platter with your finger.

    The way I'm seeing this is;

    Quartz lock : when the centre light is on, quartz lock is engaged, this means that the motor over compensates for any pressure put on the turntable, so if when you're mixing you like to physically touch the platter to slow down/ speed up the song, the quartz lock will over compensate in an unnatural manner (if you compared the same process to when the pitch fader was set at say +4%). So disabling this means that when the central light (at 0% if calibrated correctly) is on the motor acts in the exact same way as if it was at any other value on the fader. We all know how fine movements have to be to get perfect beatmatches, so this little bit of 'give' may make all the difference when we're mixing in a record at approximately the centre of the fader.

    0% pitch : the turntable is calibrated in such a way that no matter what, the big dots look stationary once the pitch is centred. So over the years you might find there's 2 points on your fader where the big dots stay still. Cutting the orange wire means that wherever the big dots stay still is your 'true' 0%, so if you have it calibrated properly, this will be at the centre of the fader anyway, so there's no need to cut this wire if you only have the one 0% pitch (as this the true 0% and default 0% coincide at the same place, the centre).



    I could be reading this completely wrong btw, I've only owned turntables since november, but this makes sense to me....


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    #41
    BaZmO*
    Registered Users Posts: 18,625 ✭✭✭✭BaZmO*


    eZe^ wrote: »
    0% pitch : the turntable is calibrated in such a way that no matter what, the big dots look stationary once the pitch is centred. So over the years you might find there's 2 points on your fader where the big dots stay still. Cutting the orange wire means that wherever the big dots stay still is your 'true' 0%, so if you have it calibrated properly, this will be at the centre of the fader anyway, so there's no need to cut this wire if you only have the one 0% pitch (as this the true 0% and default 0% coincide at the same place, the centre).
    This bit makes perfect sense to me, especially the bit about the dots, and confirms that you don't need to touch no damn TP17. :)

    eZe^ wrote: »
    Quartz lock : when the centre light is on, quartz lock is engaged, this means that the motor over compensates for any pressure put on the turntable, so if when you're mixing you like to physically touch the platter to slow down/ speed up the song, the quartz lock will over compensate in an unnatural manner (if you compared the same process to when the pitch fader was set at say +4%). So disabling this means that when the central light (at 0% if calibrated correctly) is on the motor acts in the exact same way as if it was at any other value on the fader. We all know how fine movements have to be to get perfect beatmatches, so this little bit of 'give' may make all the difference when we're mixing in a record at approximately the centre of the fader.
    The first part is correct in that the motor compensates for any pressure applied, but it only happens when the pitch fader is at the green light zero. You'd never need to mix while exactly at that point, and if you did, you could just move the pitch fader on the other deck a slight notch to balance it out.


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    #42
    hans aus dtschl
    Registered Users Posts: 3,073 ✭✭✭hans aus dtschl


    Too lazy to read the whole thread. Just posting to say I've done the mod. It's easy but it doesn't really make a whole world of difference.


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    #43
    hans aus dtschl
    Registered Users Posts: 3,073 ✭✭✭hans aus dtschl


    eZe^ wrote: »
    The way I'm seeing this is;

    Quartz lock : when the centre light is on, quartz lock is engaged, this means that the motor over compensates for any pressure put on the turntable, so if when you're mixing you like to physically touch the platter to slow down/ speed up the song, the quartz lock will over compensate in an unnatural manner (if you compared the same process to when the pitch fader was set at say +4%). So disabling this means that when the central light (at 0% if calibrated correctly) is on the motor acts in the exact same way as if it was at any other value on the fader. We all know how fine movements have to be to get perfect beatmatches, so this little bit of 'give' may make all the difference when we're mixing in a record at approximately the centre of the fader.

    0% pitch : the turntable is calibrated in such a way that no matter what, the big dots look stationary once the pitch is centred. So over the years you might find there's 2 points on your fader where the big dots stay still. Cutting the orange wire means that wherever the big dots stay still is your 'true' 0%, so if you have it calibrated properly, this will be at the centre of the fader anyway, so there's no need to cut this wire if you only have the one 0% pitch (as this the true 0% and default 0% coincide at the same place, the centre).



    I could be reading this completely wrong btw, I've only owned turntables since november, but this makes sense to me....


    The only benefit to disengaging the quartz lock is the lack of calibration needed when a deck's zero point is after floating around.

    I don't think the quartz lock causes any noticeable difference in platter reaction.
    You could, however, attach a little push button switch to TP17 and turn your Mk2 into a Mk5...meh...


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