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A radiator that cannot be bled

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  • 23-11-2014 3:45pm
    #1
    gebbel
    Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭


    I have 1 radiator that won't heat up and cannot be bled due to damage to the nut. Many have tried and failed to open it. It would seem that it's either a new rad, or a self tapping screw to facilitate bleeding. I have no idea about the latter option, other than it would save me money over a new rad. But if there are risks with future leaks etc., then the choice is easier. Can anyone help?


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    #2
    corkgsxr
    Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    The self tapper will probably start leaking eventually but it's grand to get ya out of a hole.

    What length is it and how many panels


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    #3
    gebbel
    Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭gebbel


    corkgsxr wrote: »
    The self tapper will probably start leaking eventually but it's grand to get ya out of a hole.

    What length is it and how many panels

    About 5ft long, single panel. Any possibility of leaking will make the decision easy as I'm not here quite a lot.


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    #4
    K.Flyer
    Registered Users Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    I personally wouldn't drill a hole in a radiator and put a self tapping screw into it.
    The risk of a leak is not worth the hassle of the clean up or potential damage.
    Drop the radiator and try to carefully drill out the old vent screw. If that is not successful just replace the rad.


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    #5
    gdavis
    Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭gdavis


    what type of vent is it? sometimes a liong nosed vice grips can get them or a very small socket,some vents have a hex nut on the outside which can be loosened to vent rad


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    #6
    gebbel
    Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭gebbel


    gdavis wrote: »
    what type of vent is it? sometimes a liong nosed vice grips can get them or a very small socket,some vents have a hex nut on the outside which can be loosened to vent rad

    I've had a handyman remove the radiator and use every tool he had. He says it can't be removed, and all his efforts have rounded the nut and worn it away. I'd be fairly sure it can't be done.


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    #7
    gdavis
    Registered Users Posts: 771 ✭✭✭gdavis


    well then , carefully drill it out or replace so


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    #8
    braddun
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,221 ✭✭✭braddun


    Try mixing up some epoxy filler available from car accessory shops in small tubes, fill the key with the filler and put it over the damaged valve and leave it for the time as directed on the tube, follow the instructions to the letter, with a bit of luck the valve should unscrew anti clockwise, there are other ways such as a screw extractor, this would mean drilling a hole in the stubborn screw, but a lot cheaper than buying a new radiator. an other way is welding a nut on the top of the old screw but not everyone has access to welding gear, but I would not even consider a new radiator


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    #9
    bored_stupid
    Registered Users Posts: 251 ✭✭bored_stupid


    Have you tryed turning off all other radiators and then only leave the one not heating up open , then turn your heating on for about 20 mins till your radiator heats up then open the other radiator again i had a problem with one radiator not heating up and found a thread on boards which fixed this for me hav,nt had any problems since doing this.


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    #10
    corkgsxr
    Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    gebbel wrote: »
    About 5ft long, single panel. Any possibility of leaking will make the decision easy as I'm not here quite a lot.

    There cheap anyway


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    #11
    gebbel
    Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭gebbel


    bored_stupid wrote: »
    Have you tryed turning off all other radiators and then only leave the one not heating up open , then turn your heating on for about 20 mins till your radiator heats up then open the other radiator again i had a problem with one radiator not heating up and found a thread on boards which fixed this for me hav,nt had any problems since doing this.

    I'll try that thanks.


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    #12
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users Posts: 12,736 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    gebbel wrote: »
    I'll try that thanks.

    Pointless. That's not gonna take the air out of the top of the rad


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    #13
    gebbel
    Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭gebbel


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Pointless. That's not gonna take the air out of the top of the rad

    You're right it didn't work. I'm going to buy a new one. I see there's a liquidation sale of rads in Athy on donedeal. While I'm at it I'll order a double rad as the single wasn't great at heating the room, when it worked. Thanks all.


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    #14
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users Posts: 12,736 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    gebbel wrote: »
    You're right it didn't work. I'm going to buy a new one. I see there's a liquidation sale of rads in Athy on donedeal. While I'm at it I'll order a double rad as the single wasn't great at heating the room, when it worked. Thanks all.

    As long as the rad is new. Don't chance it with a second hand rad


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    #15
    gebbel
    Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭gebbel


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    As long as the rad is new. Don't chance it with a second hand rad

    Fair enough. Should I wait for the plumber to tell me which rad to buy, or just order myself using the same dimensions? Are there more efficient ones that I should consider? The faulty one is 10 years old. Cheers.


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    #16
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users Posts: 12,736 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    gebbel wrote: »
    Fair enough. Should I wait for the plumber to tell me which rad to buy, or just order myself using the same dimensions? Are there more efficient ones that I should consider? The faulty one is 10 years old. Cheers.

    Just get a plumber to do the lot I'd say


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