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Lexus is200 not revving

  • 18-04-2014 2:03pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭


    I have a 2002 Lexus is200 2.0 6 cylinder. After I start it, a quick rev only puts it up to 3500 revs per minute, if I do it slowly it revs all the way up to the limiter. When driving it it's very hesitant and doesn't rev as freely as it did few weeks ago.
    It doesn't sound like it's off any cylinders and I've already swapped the throttle body for a new one as the old one was vibrating on throttle release.
    I've also had the codes read and nothing showed up.
    No dash lights etc. anyone any ideas what could be causing this?. Can upload a video later if that helps...


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,189 ✭✭✭PADRAIC.M


    weekaizer wrote: »
    I have a 2002 Lexus is200 2.0 6 cylinder. After I start it, a quick rev only puts it up to 3500 revs per minute, if I do it slowly it revs all the way up to the limiter. When driving it it's very hesitant and doesn't rev as freely as it did few weeks ago.
    It doesn't sound like it's off any cylinders and I've already swapped the throttle body for a new one as the old one was vibrating on throttle release.
    I've also had the codes read and nothing showed up.
    No engines etc. anyone any ideas what could be causing this?. Can upload a video later if that helps...

    First thing comes to mind without any detailed info is airflow meter


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,440 ✭✭✭Stavros Murphy


    Is this drive by wire? If so, the pedal sensor itself?


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    Is this drive by wire? If so, the pedal sensor itself?

    This I'm not sure, will have to check this out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,189 ✭✭✭PADRAIC.M


    No they are cable driven


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    Engine management light came on this morning. I wonder if I get the codes read again will something show up on the scanner?.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,189 ✭✭✭PADRAIC.M


    weekaizer wrote: »
    Engine management light came on this morning. I wonder if I get the codes read again will something show up on the scanner?.

    Yeah do and let us know codes please


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    Code 171 and 174 showed up which mechanic translates as engine running too lean..?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,189 ✭✭✭PADRAIC.M


    weekaizer wrote: »
    Code 171 and 174 showed up which mechanic translates as engine running too lean..?

    Either you have an air leak on the air intake side of things or a faulty airflow meter/bank1 O2 sensor


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    Have a listen around the engine bay when it's ticking over for any hissing. It could be something as simple as a split vacuum hose.


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    I will try posting the video on this shortly
    Cant notice any hissing sound or any obvious leaks.
    I changed back to the original throttle body as the mechanic believes the replacement part may also be a dud part but after replacing it back it drives exactly the same as it did with the second hand part so not fully convinced of this...
    By the way as you are listening to the revs, my foot is actually flat to the floor even though the revs drop from 4000 to just over 3000...


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    Revving an engine flat out like that isn't a good idea. You really have to start following a logical approach to solving it. When was the fuel filter changed? What are the emmissions like? Has any major work been done on it recently, timing belt, clutch change etc? Look at the obvious things first before swapping components.


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    jca wrote: »
    Revving an engine flat out like that isn't a good idea. You really have to start following a logical approach to solving it. When was the fuel filter changed? What are the emmissions like? Has any major work been done on it recently, timing belt, clutch change etc? Look at the obvious things first before swapping components.

    Timing belt was checked 2 days ago, its in good nick, not toothed or anything.
    It passed NCT last week emissions readings were CO 0.42% at low idle (632rpm) and 0.09% at high idle (2,969rpm).
    Not sure about Fuel filter etc change as i only bought the car a month ago and no service book with it. It had oil and oil filter done before sale.


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    It must have been registered before July '02 because with a co figure of 0.42 it only barely passed. Anything after July '02 had to be less than 0.30 co. Did the problem happen suddenly? It could be a collapsed catalytic converter. What does the exhaust note sound like at the tail pipe?


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    jca wrote: »
    It must have been registered before July '02 because with a co figure of 0.42 it only barely passed. Anything after July '02 had to be less than 0.30 co. Did the problem happen suddenly? It could be a collapsed catalytic converter. What does the exhaust note sound like at the tail pipe?

    Think the pass mark was 0.50 so yeah only scraped through!
    Yeah it was sudden. I dropped a gear to overtake and she just bogged down and hasn't been right since. To me the exhaust note sounds the same as the day I bought the car...
    What would symptoms of a blocked cat be?..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    Really the only thing you have to work on are those two fault codes. It looks like a fuelling fault blocked fuel filter a failing fuel pump it could be so many things. An emission test would give some idea of the fuel mixture. Is there any difference in performance if the engine is cold/hot?


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    jca wrote: »
    Really the only thing you have to work on are those two fault codes. It looks like a fuelling fault blocked fuel filter a failing fuel pump it could be so many things. An emission test would give some idea of the fuel mixture. Is there any difference in performance if the engine is cold/hot?

    No difference at all between hot and cold performance. There seems to be an issue when the accelerator pedal is more than 50% down, the further down the pedal is that's when the car bogs down. It's actually ok for the first 50% or so. If I drive the car at an easy speed without being lead footed you wouldn't know there was anything wrong with it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    Just to confirm the problem was as was my suspicion a blocked catalytic converter!..
    The is200 has 3 in total, 2 on first section of exhaust coming out of the inlet manifold (one of these has blocked) and then a primary cat on the middle section of exhaust.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    weekaizer wrote: »
    Just to confirm the problem was as was my suspicion a blocked catalytic converter!..
    The is200 has 3 in total, 2 on first section of exhaust coming out of the inlet manifold (one of these has blocked) and then a primary cat on the middle section of exhaust.

    I was right:) Nice to get it sorted. Did it cost much? Thanks for letting us know how it panned out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    jca wrote: »
    I was right:) Nice to get it sorted. Did it cost much? Thanks for letting us know how it panned out.

    Bought a second hand front and middle section of exhaust for €70 although €40 for front section would have been enough as I didn't know which cat was blocked plus €18 for manifold gaskets so not too bad :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8 Is200Sully


    weekaizer wrote: »
    Bought a second hand front and middle section of exhaust for €70 although €40 for front section would have been enough as I didn't know which cat was blocked plus €18 for manifold gaskets so not too bad :)


    I've a problem that seems to be similar I've a 2002 is200 sport passed nct last month and passed emissions test last nite at the mechanics fine but if I'm driving the car it seems sluggish and if you floor the car it reaches 4000 revvs shutters and Boggs down then, was yours the same? Could start it today it could be fine but then next day it be terrible...


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    Mine simply wouldn't Rev out.
    Foot hard down it would just run out of puff after bout 3500 revs.
    Take the car out for a decent drive then when you get home jack it up and have a good look/feel at the cats. If they are red hot then more than likely its same problem.
    I've since sold that is200, by any chance is it a blue Westmeath reg one that you have?!.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8 Is200Sully


    weekaizer wrote: »
    Mine simply wouldn't Rev out.
    Foot hard down it would just run out of puff after bout 3500 revs.
    Take the car out for a decent drive then when you get home jack it up and have a good look/feel at the cats. If they are red hot then more than likely its same problem.
    I've since sold that is200, by any chance is it a blue Westmeath reg one that you have?!.

    Ya 4905??? Is it the same car? Obviously a ongoing problem with this car so :/ it's going into main dealer tomorrow for a full ecu check so should no more then hopefully...


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    Haha yeah that's my old yok.
    I sold it the week of the donegal rally last year with this issue still not sorted. New owner obviously was aware of it too. He text me a few days later saying he changed the gaskets in the exhaust and that had fixed the problem. It obviously didn't last though. I've seen it up for sale a few times since then.
    I also tried a new lambda sensor but that didn't work.
    The ecu scan probably won't show anything up. But I'd be fairly confident the fault is exhaust related.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8 Is200Sully


    weekaizer wrote: »
    Haha yeah that's my old yok.
    I sold it the week of the donegal rally last year with this issue still not sorted. New owner obviously was aware of it too. He text me a few days later saying he changed the gaskets in the exhaust and that had fixed the problem. It obviously didn't last though. I've seen it up for sale a few times since then.
    I also tried a new lambda sensor but that didn't work.
    The ecu scan probably won't show anything up. But I'd be fairly confident the fault is exhaust related.


    Lovely!! Ya I've the lambda sensors changed as well before nct and it flew threw the test no hassle think I'll
    Be selling it on again so as well :P I'll see if the ecu check shows up anything else but if the problem is exhaust related there has to be something causing the exhaust and cats to ware out... I'll keep you posted anyway


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    Is200Sully wrote: »
    Lovely!! Ya I've the lambda sensors changed as well before nct and it flew threw the test no hassle think I'll
    Be selling it on again so as well :P I'll see if the ecu check shows up anything else but if the problem is exhaust related there has to be something causing the exhaust and cats to ware out... I'll keep you posted anyway

    I left that car with 3 different mechanics and also the main lexus dealer in letterkenny and yet I never got the issue sorted. Would love to kno what the hell is the issue is.
    Ya see when I had her, the element inside the exhaust cat broke loose and was rattling around inside the exhaust I think that was a once off issue. wonder would a decat exhaust sort the issue??.
    If you get her fixed be sure to report back here anyway lad!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8 Is200Sully


    weekaizer wrote: »
    I left that car with 3 different mechanics and also the main lexus dealer in letterkenny and yet I never got the issue sorted. Would love to kno what the hell is the issue is.
    Ya see when I had her, the element inside the exhaust cat broke loose and was rattling around inside the exhaust I think that was a once off issue. wonder would a decat exhaust sort the issue??.
    If you get her fixed be sure to report back here anyway lad!


    I'll be taking it back into my mechanic tomorrow nite and tell him the story that it probably is exhaust related and see what the causes could be then go from there a de-cat probably would be a quick fix solution but the cats ain't just going by themselves something has be warring the exhaust out,, and I'll get back if I find the problem of not you'll see it on donedeal


  • Registered Users Posts: 8 Is200Sully


    Ok so an update on this... Today I went and got a second hand manifold with the 2 pre-cats, got the pipe after it with the cat, 2 lambda sensors for the manifold and all new gaskets.

    Fitted all of these and still cars running the same it will Rev up fine when ticking over but as soon as your driving its loss of power is shocking it's like the car has lost the vvti kick in altogether...

    Was told that if the cat had broke down Mayb the back box might be blocked so gonna change that next and see if anything improves if not I'm just gonna crack up altogether ha!


  • Registered Users Posts: 621 ✭✭✭weekaizer


    Did the ecu scan show up anything?.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8 Is200Sully


    weekaizer wrote: »
    Did the ecu scan show up anything?.


    No nothing all was perfect they said...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,340 ✭✭✭mullingar


    That is really an odd fault.

    The first few things I would check are:
    vacuum - make sure the vacuum lines are perfect. Some cars have a valve to open/close intake sections powered by the engine vacuum.
    Air-flow - make sure there is no obstruction in the intake or exhaust - disconnection is best (but keep in the MAF sensor)
    Fuel - get the fuel pressure line checked on both idle and WOT. Then maybe check each injector.
    Spark plugs - Are they all the same colour?

    If all those fail, it has to be electrical so the thinking cap needs to go on.....


  • Registered Users Posts: 8 Is200Sully


    mullingar wrote: »
    That is really an odd fault.

    The first few things I would check are:
    vacuum - make sure the vacuum lines are perfect. Some cars have a valve to open/close intake sections powered by the engine vacuum.
    Air-flow - make sure there is no obstruction in the intake or exhaust - disconnection is best (but keep in the MAF sensor)
    Fuel - get the fuel pressure line checked on both idle and WOT. Then maybe check each injector.
    Spark plugs - Are they all the same colour?

    If all those fail, it has to be electrical so the thinking cap needs to go on.....

    Serviced the car today changed out everything, oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter, polen filter...took car for a drive it was perfect later on do back to the start again would go to 4000 revvs and start shuttering and lose power...

    What's easiest way to check for a vacuum leak?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,340 ✭✭✭mullingar


    Simplest way is to disconnect a small rubber tube to see if it affects the idle.

    Another thing, check your full intake to see if there is an extra butterfly valve after the throttle body as some Toyota had an ACIS system which half closes the air intake to restrict the air intake to help low rev torque. If this is stuck closed you won't be able to rev thanks to air starvation.


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