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Stove

  • 06-01-2014 3:13pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭


    Recently had a stove installed and there seems to be a problem. There is practically no heat from it, even after being lit for hours!! We had an engineer out as the installer said it was the stove that was the problem but the engineer said it was the installer... :/

    Anyway, my question is, what way should the insert be connected to the chimney? When its lit the wall behind the fireplace gets really hot leading me to believe that all the heat is disappearing out the top and into some void. So I took a plate off the inside of the stove and stuck my hand up and as I thought, theres a huge void, even though the installer said it had been filled.

    Should this void be there? Should there be some sort of adapter connecting it directly to the chimney? Is there anything else I need to check?

    Thanks :)


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭Froststop


    Recently had a stove installed and there seems to be a problem. There is practically no heat from it, even after being lit for hours!! We had an engineer out as the installer said it was the stove that was the problem but the engineer said it was the installer... :/

    Anyway, my question is, what way should the insert be connected to the chimney? When its lit the wall behind the fireplace gets really hot leading me to believe that all the heat is disappearing out the top and into some void. So I took a plate off the inside of the stove and stuck my hand up and as I thought, theres a huge void, even though the installer said it had been filled.

    Should this void be there? Should there be some sort of adapter connecting it directly to the chimney? Is there anything else I need to check?

    Thanks :)

    Have you any technical spec for the stove?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!




  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    Had never seen those diagrams until I went looking for you. From what I can tell there's a huge void behind the stove but that should be filled? I can literally put my arm around the back of the fire when going out the top of the stove


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭Froststop


    Had never seen those diagrams until I went looking for you. From what I can tell there's a huge void behind the stove but that should be filled? I can literally put my arm around the back of the fire when going out the top of the stove

    Found this, hope it helps:
    Chimney
    The chimney height and the position of the chimney terminal should conform to Building Regulations. Check that the chimney is in good condition, dry, free from cracks and obstructions. The diameter of the flue should not be less than 125mm and not more than 200mm. If any of these requirements are not met, the chimney should be lined by a suitable method. The chimney must be swept before connection to the stove.

    Where the chimney is believed to have previously served an open fire installation, it is possible that the higher flue gas temperature from the stove may loosen deposits that were previously firmly adhered, with the consequent risk of flue blockage. It is therefore recommended that the chimney be swept a second time within a month of regular use after installation. If you have any doubts about the suitability of your chimney, consult your local dealer/stockist.

    If there is no existing chimney then either a prefabricated block chimney or a twin-walled insulated stainless steel flue to BS 4543 can be used. These chimneys must be fitted in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and Building Regulations.

    Flue Draught
    A flue draught of minimum 12 Pa to a maximum 25 Pa is required for satisfactory appliance performance. The flue draught should be checked under fire at
    high output and, if it exceeds the recommended maximum, a draught stabiliser must be fitted so that the rate of burning can be controlled and to prevent overfiring.

    Connection to the Chimney
    It is essential that all gaps between the stove and fireplace fascia or chimney-flue are sealed and made airtight. This appliance is not suitable for installation in a shared flue system.

    The chimney must be accessible for cleaning. This insert stove should be removed at least once a year and cleaned.

    Material Clearances

    All non-combustible walls closer than 400mm to the stove should be at least 75mm thick. In all instances the back wall of the fireplace recess and the hearth should be made of non-combustible material. Allow an apron of at least 300mm at the front of the stove and 150mm on either side. The hearth on which the stove is to be placed should not be less than 125mm thick and should be in accordance with the current building regulations.



    Safety Distances from Combustible Surfaces:
    Side/Front
    San Remo Insert 4KW Stove 600mm

    http://www.firewarm.ie/pdf/instructions/Firewarm-Insert-Stove.doc


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    Cheers for that. I did download the word doc and it looks like the void above the stove is way too big and the heat is going everywhere but out the front of the stove, would that be correct?

    I know it's hard to tell when it's just my description to go on but I'm looking for all the information I can get before ringing the installer again. He has been down 4 times now including installation. Each time he puts some kind of sand substance above the stove and it works for a day or two and then nothing. When I put my arm up there was alot of lose debris so I think it's just falling away after a day or two :/

    The chimney was swept a day or two prior to installation, just as an fyi

    Thanks for the help so far!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    My opinion for what it's worth is that your biggest problem is that you have installed an inset stove which creates more expectation than actual heat.

    It stands to reason that as its sitting in the fireplace and heat rises, and also that the surface of the stove exposed to the room is small by comparison to a normal stove, and therefore, less heat will transfer to the room.

    I don't know whether its right or wrong but those inset stoves are often fitted exactly as yours is.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    Avns1s wrote: »
    My opinion for what it's worth is that your biggest problem is that you have installed an inset stove which creates more expectation than actual heat.

    It stands to reason that as its sitting in the fireplace and heat rises, and also that the surface of the stove exposed to the room is small by comparison to a normal stove, and therefore, less heat will transfer to the room.

    I don't know whether its right or wrong but those inset stoves are often fitted exactly as yours is.

    That was my exact thinking but I was told that for the size of the room, an average sitting room, this thing would be great! I know what you're saying and it makes logical sense but there is no heat off the thing at all! I could sit 2 feet from it and barely feel anything. It states 4kw and 65% efficiency, surely I should atleast feel a bit of heat!?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭Froststop


    Cheers for that. I did download the word doc and it looks like the void above the stove is way too big and the heat is going everywhere but out the front of the stove, would that be correct?

    I would think that the back should be filled and the connection between the stove and the chimney should have a peace of flexy flue liner fitted, I could be wrong.

    I have never heard of anyone having this problem with an inset stove, usually people a delighted with the performance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭Froststop


    That was my exact thinking but I was told that for the size of the room, an average sitting room, this thing would be great! I know what you're saying and it makes logical sense but there is no heat off the thing at all! I could sit 2 feet from it and barely feel anything. It states 4kw and 65% efficiency, surely I should atleast feel a bit of heat!?

    Are you 100% sure there isn't a baffle missing?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    Froststop wrote: »
    Are you 100% sure there isn't a baffle missing?

    A what?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    Sorry, just googled it. No that's definitely there. That's what I removed to put my arm up


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Froststop wrote: »
    I would think that the back should be filled and the connection between the stove and the chimney should have a peace of flexy flue liner fitted, I could be wrong.

    I have never heard of anyone having this problem with an inset stove, usually people a delighted with the performance.

    I can see how you would fit a flexi flue liner all the way to the top but I cannot understand how you will fill the void behind and above the inset stove.

    I don't think changing to the flexi flue will make much if any difference.

    You might be right about the baffle though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Sorry, just googled it. No that's definitely there. That's what I removed to put my arm up

    What are you burning as a matter of interest?

    Its normal for the fireplace etc to warm up above the stove over a few hours.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    Avns1s wrote: »
    What are you burning as a matter of interest?

    Its normal for the fireplace etc to warm up above the stove over a few hours.

    Stove fuel, the little nugget things. I understand that around it will get warm but the concrete wall behind the fire place is almost as hot as the bloody stove!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    Avns1s wrote: »
    I can see how you would fit a flexi flue liner all the way to the top but I cannot understand how you will fill the void behind and above the inset stove.

    I don't think changing to the flexi flue will make much if any difference.

    You might be right about the baffle though.

    In the diagram from the link above it shows hardly any room around the back and top of the stove, there's a huge void behind this one, that's what I thought might be the problem


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,875 ✭✭✭✭MugMugs


    When I had mine put in we had to put a fireback into place first as it was initially rigged for gas....... this filled the void. Then when the stove was put in the surrounding area was packed with vermiculite.

    It doesn't sound like your installer did this OP.

    What was in there before the stove?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭Froststop


    Stove fuel, the little nugget things. I understand that around it will get warm but the concrete wall behind the fire place is almost as hot as the bloody stove!

    I think your loosing the heat out the back and with out a flue it going straight up the chimney, resulting in the heat loss being to great and not allowing the front to heat.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,422 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    The diagram shows a cross section through the flue outlet of the stove. If you were to compare your cross section on a diagram like that, there may be little difference.

    Is the stove sealed well around its edges where it meets the fireplace?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭Froststop


    MugMugs wrote: »
    When I had mine put in we had to put a fireback into place first as it was initially rigged for gas....... this filled the void. Then when the stove was put in the surrounding area was packed with vermiculite.

    It doesn't sound like your installer did this OP.

    What was in there before the stove?

    May have hit the nail on the head there!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    MugMugs wrote: »
    When I had mine put in we had to put a fireback into place first as it was initially rigged for gas....... this filled the void. Then when the stove was put in the surrounding area was packed with vermiculite.

    It doesn't sound like your installer did this OP.

    What was in there before the stove?

    An open fire. Vermiculite, is that a hard substance, kinda looks like dry plaster? That's the stuff that was breaking away when I put my arm above the stove


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    Avns1s wrote: »
    The diagram shows a cross section through the flue outlet of the stove. If you were to compare your cross section on a diagram like that, there may be little difference.

    Is the stove sealed well around its edges where it meets the fireplace?

    Yep, some kind of clear filler, seems well sealed to me


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,716 ✭✭✭brightkane


    i have a similar stove installed about 2 months now.

    they took out the hearth of the open fire, slid it into position, insulsted in the void and also commected it directly to the chimney flue, so at the top of the stop there is a pipe commenting it to the chimney, if that makes sence.

    For what its worth ours is great for heat,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,875 ✭✭✭✭MugMugs


    An open fire. Vermiculite, is that a hard substance, kinda looks like dry plaster? That's the stuff that was breaking away when I put my arm above the stove

    So the Insert went in against the fireback that was there?

    If there's a void present between stove and back that you can feel, then it sounds to me like you're pissing heat out everywhere but where it's meant to be.

    Vermiculite
    zspengzhang.360182836_std.jpg

    I'd be calling that installer back and demanding action.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭Froststop


    Yep, some kind of clear filler, seems well sealed to me

    I may be corrected here but I have never seen a clear heat resistant filler, have they just used clear silicone? If so cowboy springs to mind!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    I'd imagine so Mugs.

    Like I said, there's a huge void all around the top and for as far as I can reach at the back. So this should be filled? What about connecting it to the chimney or should it just be filled so that there is little spacearound the stove and between stove and chimney?

    Sorry for all the questions. Installer is supposedly coming tomorrow so I want to be ready and have as much info as possible

    Thanks again for all the replies :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    Froststop wrote: »
    I may be corrected here but I have never seen a clear heat resistant filler, have they just used clear silicone? If so cowboy springs to mind!

    It would seem so and yeah, I was thinking that myself


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,875 ✭✭✭✭MugMugs


    By UK requirments, it should be connected to the flue however I did a bit of looking into it and I am testemant to what I did.

    I had a slope built on top of the stove itself and further packed with vermiculite. The flue serves the stove well and there's no draw issue. The reason I did the slope was so when the flue was being cleaned all debris would fall back into the stove and not around it.

    Basically, I don't have an issue with no connector (others here do though) but it should be a very tight and sealed unit inside.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    Right, sure I'll see how tomorrow goes and get back to ye. I haven't been there when he was back before so I won't be happy till it's filled properly this time, hopefully it gets sorted. Thanks again lads


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,787 ✭✭✭✭kippy


    Recently had a stove installed and there seems to be a problem. There is practically no heat from it, even after being lit for hours!! We had an engineer out as the installer said it was the stove that was the problem but the engineer said it was the installer... :/

    Anyway, my question is, what way should the insert be connected to the chimney? When its lit the wall behind the fireplace gets really hot leading me to believe that all the heat is disappearing out the top and into some void. So I took a plate off the inside of the stove and stuck my hand up and as I thought, theres a huge void, even though the installer said it had been filled.

    Should this void be there? Should there be some sort of adapter connecting it directly to the chimney? Is there anything else I need to check?

    Thanks :)

    The engineer who was out, what type of engineer was he and if he was able to point the finger at the installer, did he explicitly say what the issue was with the install?
    Surely if he is blaming the installer he should be able to advise to as to what the issue is, and then you can pass it onto the installer, instead of second guessing what the engineer should have already identified.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    kippy wrote: »
    The engineer who was out, what type of engineer was he and if he was able to point the finger at the installer, did he explicitly say what the issue was with the install?
    Surely if he is blaming the installer he should be able to advise to as to what the issue is, and then you can pass it onto the installer, instead of second guessing what the engineer should have already identified.

    The engineer was sent out by the manufacturer as requested by us. They both met on site. The engineer inspected it and did something like checking where the air was going, I wasn't there so not exactly sure. He said it was a problem with the installation, that's all I know. Cost €80 for the engineer and of course the installer was out the door as the invoice was handed to us


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭Froststop


    kippy wrote: »
    The engineer who was out, what type of engineer was he and if he was able to point the finger at the installer, did he explicitly say what the issue was with the install?
    Surely if he is blaming the installer he should be able to advise to as to what the issue is, and then you can pass it onto the installer, instead of second guessing what the engineer should have already identified.

    I think he is looking for another €80 to put it right.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    No one is looking for more money but when the installer has been out 4 times with no results it gets to be a pain


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭Froststop


    No one is looking for more money but when the installer has been out 4 times with no results it gets to be a pain

    It looks to me as the engineer did not advise what the actual problem was, he did a draft test and told you it was installed incorrectly. IMO he either dose not know or he wouldn't advise while the other installer was there (I assume the installer is not working for the manufacturer). A lot of these guys are like this, they let you in trouble, hoping you will have to give in and get them back to fix it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,787 ✭✭✭✭kippy


    Froststop wrote: »
    It looks to me as the engineer did not advise what the actual problem was, he did a draft test and told you it was installed incorrectly. IMO he either dose not know or he wouldn't advise while the other installer was there (I assume the installer is not working for the manufacturer). A lot of these guys are like this, they let you in trouble, hoping you will have to give in and get them back to fix it.

    Yep, that looks like it.
    OP Id be looking for a full written report as to what exactly the problem is off the engineer so it can at least be passed on to the Installer or your solicitor, whichever proves the most effective.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 hot rod


    you have 2 problems, Yes its not fitted correct, But the main problem is the stove, they do not produce any heat into the room, Total waste of money. They have no convector box so all your heat is lost into the chimney breast, That's why your chimney wall is warm. My advice to anyone reading this do not touch these inset stoves, there made in china a Cheap excuse for a stove. Only buy a inset stove that has full convection box on it.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 248 ✭✭aisr1ofk43dpy5


    hot rod wrote: »
    you have 2 problems, Yes its not fitted correct, But the main problem is the stove, they do not produce any heat into the room, Total waste of money. They have no convector box so all your heat is lost into the chimney breast, That's why your chimney wall is warm. My advice to anyone reading this do not touch these inset stoves, there made in china a Cheap excuse for a stove. Only buy a inset stove that has full convection box on it.

    Sorry for hijacking the thread but which insert stoves would have a full convection box.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 hot rod


    Sorry for hijacking the thread but which insert stoves would have a full convection box.
    Boru croi beag and Henley Apollo. There are loads more. They would be good value for money. The more u spend the better u get


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 248 ✭✭aisr1ofk43dpy5


    hot rod wrote: »
    Boru croi beag and Henley Apollo. There are loads more. They would be good value for money. The more u spend the better u get

    Thanks for the information


  • Registered Users Posts: 11 themainman2010


    Hi, looking at buying dry stove, is there any reason to have a automatic thermostat air control on it?

    Also anyone using "flue boiler" for there stove? Or a unit called "Magic heat" which reclaims hot air from flue?
    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,783 ✭✭✭rugbyman


    Justvread this thread through for the second time. KERSPLAT, if you are still on Boards, can you advise us of the outcome?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    rugbyman wrote: »
    Justvread this thread through for the second time. KERSPLAT, if you are still on Boards, can you advise us of the outcome?

    Got it sorted but can't remember what exactly was done. Will find out tonight.


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 Thanks for that Stella


    I was reading along with great interest and it ends with "Got it sorted but can't remember what exactly was done. Will find out tonight". What a way to end a conversation.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 31,152 ✭✭✭✭KERSPLAT!


    I was reading along with great interest and it ends with "Got it sorted but can't remember what exactly was done. Will find out tonight". What a way to end a conversation.

    Cliffhanger, am I right!?


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 Thanks for that Stella


    like reading a book, and discovering the last 4 pages are missing. Ya could be right!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,326 ✭✭✭lensman


    I bought a old book on holiday once & when I got to the last chapter I discovered it had a printing problem, the first chapter was duplicated, how's that for a cliff hanger? anyway years later I found the book 2nd hand at a market stall for €1, happy days. I'm looking for an installer to fit my stove, I was thinking of a free standing Henley 6kw but the shop says the 6kw insert version gives out more heat:confused:, also finding it difficult to get an installer this time of year :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 1 gerty086


    Any chance of letting us know the outcome as you have benefitted from advise on the forum


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,326 ✭✭✭lensman


    gerty086 wrote: »
    Any chance of letting us know the outcome as you have benefitted from advise on the forum
    I went with the Heritage Cashel 5kw room heater stove, loads of heat output for my 12ft x 12ft room, had it installed by Andrius fast efficient work from start to finish.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,716 ✭✭✭brightkane


    lensman wrote: »
    I went with the Heritage Cashel 5kw room heater stove, loads of heat output for my 12ft x 12ft room, had it installed by Andrius fast efficient work from start to finish.

    How mush was the stove and was installation separate?

    Thanks


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