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Chain question

  • 10-07-2014 11:27am
    #1
    danger_mouse_tm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 992 ✭✭✭


    Hi all
    In an effort to retain my youthfulness and physique, I purchased a second hand giant bicycle which, although was in poor condition when I got it, I think I've done a good job (with the help of Google) getting it road worthy.
    I've just finished making adjustments to the front derailleur, but I've noticed that the chain doesn't sit well in the lower half of the front cog. Does this mean a new chain?


Comments

  • #2
    not yet
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,008 ✭✭✭not yet


    danger_mouse_tm wrote: »
    Hi all
    In an effort to retain my youthfulness and physique, I purchased a second hand giant bicycle which, although was in poor condition when I got it, I think I've done a good job (with the help of Google) getting it road worthy.
    I've just finished making adjustments to the front derailleur, but I've noticed that the chain doesn't sit well in the lower half of the front cog. Does this mean a new chain?

    More then likely a new bike..


  • #3
    danger_mouse_tm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 992 ✭✭✭danger_mouse_tm


    not yet wrote: »
    More then likely a new bike..

    What's wrong with it? I've just gone on a bender down in lidl with the Thursday specials doing up to bits with the latest designer Crivit gear!


  • #4
    Alek
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,520 ✭✭✭Alek


    The chain is stretched by the looks of it. Get a new one and - most likely - a new casette, as a new chain will skip on the old one (worn teeth).

    Your LBS will be able to double-check this.


  • #5
    danger_mouse_tm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 992 ✭✭✭danger_mouse_tm


    Alek wrote: »
    The chain is stretched by the looks of it. Get a new one and - most likely - a new casette, as a new chain will skip on the old one (worn teeth).

    Your LBS will be able to double-check this.
    I might head to the bike shop then so. If I have to get two cog sets, a chain and two tyres, its not looking like a great buy for a hundred euro after all.


  • #6
    quozl
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,308 ✭✭✭quozl


    The cassette is the set of gear sprockets at the back. You probably won't need to replace the chain-set (the two cogs at the front).

    A chain and a cassette won't cost you that much. I do that stuff myself but would estimate 50 quid or less for the pair?


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  • #7
    danger_mouse_tm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 992 ✭✭✭danger_mouse_tm


    quozl wrote: »
    The cassette is the set of gear sprockets at the back. You probably won't need to replace the chain-set (the two cogs at the front).

    A chain and a cassette won't cost you that much. I do that stuff myself but would estimate 50 quid or less for the pair?

    That's not too bad. I don't think I would feel confident enough going at the chain or cassette. I spent a good bit of time cleaning pure shoe polish off the chain and gears yesterday. I will ring the local bike merchant here in Bandon.


  • #8
    not yet
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,008 ✭✭✭not yet


    danger_mouse_tm wrote: »
    What's wrong with it? I've just gone on a bender down in lidl with the Thursday specials doing up to bits with the latest designer Crivit gear!

    Me too, Jaysus the stuff is for half nothing in there.

    I was kidding about a new bike.


  • #9
    Type 17
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    The level of wear visible on that chain means that you'll need a new cassette and chainset as well as a new chain - not ideal, but the parts required are fairly low-end, so you should get it all fitted for less than €100.

    While this isn't too cheap compared to your purchase price, you'll have a completely new drivetrain on a bike that would be over €400 new, so you're still ahead.

    PS: Don't over-oil the new chain, as this is what killed the old one so well - loads of sticky oil mixed with road-dirt forms a substance akin to liquid sandpaper - for reference, the rollers in the middle of each link should be grey and relatively clean - black means too much oil and/or dirty (time to clean it), and silver means too dry, which will kill a chain almost as quickly as the liquid sandpaper scenario.


  • #10
    alaimacerc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,224 ✭✭✭alaimacerc


    danger_mouse_tm wrote: »
    I might head to the bike shop then so. If I have to get two cog sets, a chain and two tyres, its not looking like a great buy for a hundred euro after all.

    I wouldn't despair; the drive chain is essentially a "consumable", you still have a serviceable frame and other accessories. (Granted if you'd known about the chain stretch you might have been able to haggle off the second-hand price.)

    As a pretty invariable rule, if you already have a chain issue that's visible to the naked eye, or palpable when cycling -- other than "oil the wee beggar" -- it's too late to replace the chain by itself. "Codependent" wear will mean that a new chain on the old sprockets will run worse than the old one did. And I say this as a cheapskate that's tried to get away with ignoring this sage advice from others in the past, and found out otherwise first hand.


  • #11
    danger_mouse_tm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 992 ✭✭✭danger_mouse_tm


    HI all,

    Much obliged for all the replies and advice. I took a trip last week to the GIANT bike shop in Ballincollig and was completely blown away by the stock there. I was more confused about bikes after leaving than I was before I went in. Some of those bike were worth more than my car (well, maybe all of them!). I was half tempted to triathalon single piece suit and get four grand bike and get out there and give myself a heart attack. At least I'd look the part even if I'm wrecked after doing 5 kilometers!
    I let common sense prevail and left without letting the shop assistant know what a clueless egit I was and instead brought my own steed to a bike service merchant out the road that I had seen advertising on facebook that he was doing bike services for a tenner.
    I definitely needed new tyres. As far as the chain and cassette were concerned he said that the was on wrong, I had moved the guide for the front derailleur in too far and the cassette would be very expensive to replace and probably not necessary.
    I gave him a €20 deposit and he sent me an email this afternoon. It read:
    hey the bike is doing good had to but on two new spokes on the back wheel i also have to strip the back wheel as one of the cogs are wrong that i why the chain is ripping all together it will cost about 50 to70 if it ok let me no and ill work away as i said it could be cheaper but that is the worst it will be.

    So is he talking about replacing the cassette? Should I get onto him and make sure he replaces the chain too? Maybe he is just replacing one set of cogs in the cassette (I didn't think that was possible).
    I wish I could find someone semi professional at this!


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  • #12
    alaimacerc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,224 ✭✭✭alaimacerc


    danger_mouse_tm wrote: »
    I gave him a €20 deposit and he sent me an email this afternoon. It read:
    hey the bike is doing good had to but on two new spokes on the back wheel i also have to strip the back wheel as one of the cogs are wrong that i why the chain is ripping all together it will cost about 50 to70 if it ok let me no and ill work away as i said it could be cheaper but that is the worst it will be.

    So is he talking about replacing the cassette? Should I get onto him and make sure he replaces the chain too? Maybe he is just replacing one set of cogs in the cassette (I didn't think that was possible).
    I wish I could find someone semi professional at this!

    I'd imagine that's exactly what it means. It's a reasonable ballpark for a cassette-and-chain replacement, IMO, based on what I've been quoted (and charged) in the past, especially if he's factoring in the initial work he quoted you for separately. You might indeed want to double-check that's including the new chain (which shouldn't be more than a tenner, if it's an entry-level drive we're talking about, and not one of the fancy narrow fellows). If he's replacing the cassette without replacing the chain, I'd fear cluelessness on his part.

    I'm not sure what he means by a cog being "wrong". Typo/autocorrect error for "worn"? It is possible to replace individual sprockets in some cases, but it depends on what type you have. I'd guess he's actually talking about a cassette replacement, but it's not hugely clear from what he's written.


  • #13
    danger_mouse_tm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 992 ✭✭✭danger_mouse_tm


    My bike is ready. The phonecall I just has from him left me quite disillusioned. I believe that he has replaced two spokes on each of the wheels. He has just replaced the back tyre (I reckon the front was was pretty bald too - but he's the expert!). He said they sent him a size smaller, but it's kind of a good thing as there's less tyre on the ground. I presume because it's still a 26" tyre that it's just a narrower tyre. He also said that he replaced the rear brake cable and changed four teeth on the top cog on the back. €55 including the tyre.

    Ah sher I will be getting something brand spanking new in a few months. I think I will start a new thread about that.


  • #14
    danger_mouse_tm
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 992 ✭✭✭danger_mouse_tm


    Just a quick update on my bike. After I got my bike back I noticed that the new back tyre was considerably narrower than the previous one - I don't know if that's much of an issue. It might even be easier to pedal! The guy that fixed my bike also said that he had to replace two spokes on each wheel (I can't tell the difference - although I notice a slight buckle now in the back wheel!). He also said that he replaced the two smaller cogs on the cassette - is that even possible?

    He switched the brakes around for me (front now on the right), although I notice there's some "overhang" of the handlebar grip even though it's shoved tight up against the brake mount. There's a small screw on each of the brake mounts that have little springs on them. Are they for some kind of adjustment?


  • #15
    iwillhtfu
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,373 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Yeah I think you need a new bike :)

    Yes you can replace the lower cogs on the cassette but most just replace the entire cassette. From the sounds of thing you'd have been better off investing in a few tools and doing the work yourself.

    He should've trued the back wheel if he replaced some spokes on it. I think if I were you I'd be bringing it back and getting these issues sorted.


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