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Mitsubishi Shogun

  • 27-03-2015 9:05pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 152 ✭✭


    We are looking at a Clean 99 Mitsubishi Shogun 2.8 td swb with 149k and 11 months test remaining.

    ARE THESE A GOOD JEEP AND IS THERE ANYTHING TO WATCH OUT FOR


Comments

  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    Rust number 1 anyway as it being a shogun it will be a uk import, give the chassis a good going over including the rear cross members, the body goes too at lower inner arches.
    They get blamed as having head issues but this is all down to servicing and maintaining the cooling system, I would get the coolant changed and make sure the radiator is free. Also check is the viscous fan is operating properly. For the price of a water pump I would fit one for peace of mind.
    The injector pump suffers from a front seal failing which in early stages results in the jeep cutting out in the mornings and usually happens at the same place. seal is only a few euros and labour is not bad either. Alot get their pump reconditioned which is totally unnecessary. I have done alot of these seals and been successful with all of them.
    The 11 months test isn't worth the paper its written on so carry a mechanic who is knowledge in these jeeps to give it the once over. All in all they are a fine jeep, oceans of power, reasonable mpg for a jeep and will give years of service if its maintained.


  • Registered Users Posts: 152 ✭✭2time


    Rust number 1 anyway as it being a shogun it will be a uk import, give the chassis a good going over including the rear cross members, the body goes too at lower inner arches.
    They get blamed as having head issues but this is all down to servicing and maintaining the cooling system, I would get the coolant changed and make sure the radiator is free. Also check is the viscous fan is operating properly. For the price of a water pump I would fit one for peace of mind.
    The injector pump suffers from a front seal failing which in early stages results in the jeep cutting out in the mornings and usually happens at the same place. seal is only a few euros and labour is not bad either. Alot get their pump reconditioned which is totally unnecessary. I have done alot of these seals and been successful with all of them.
    The 11 months test isn't worth the paper its written on so carry a mechanic who is knowledge in these jeeps to give it the once over. All in all they are a fine jeep, oceans of power, reasonable mpg for a jeep and will give years of service if its maintained.

    thanks ..how do they compare to a 99 landcrusier or a trooper


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    2time wrote: »
    thanks ..how do they compare to a 99 landcrusier or a trooper

    Its up there with them and the best of the three imo, a 99 trooper will be a 3litre which is a heap of rubbish unless its converted to a 3.1. Cruiser great jeep too but overrated imo in terms of the money they are making and they are a very plain jane yoke.


  • Registered Users Posts: 152 ✭✭2time


    Its up there with them and the best of the three imo, a 99 trooper will be a 3litre which is a heap of rubbish unless its converted to a 3.1. Cruiser great jeep too but overrated imo in terms of the money they are making and they are a very plain jane yoke.

    is there much difference in pulling power in these 3

    is there any better jeep out there around these years


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    I don't think there is any difference worth talking about anyway, some lads argue that a long wheel base jeep is better at towing than a short. The trooper has the most hp @ 160 but the shogun @ 140 would take it on no problem.
    I dont see any better jeep, is the shogun long or short?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 152 ✭✭2time


    I don't think there is any difference worth talking about anyway, some lads argue that a long wheel base jeep is better at towing than a short. The trooper has the most hp @ 160 but the shogun @ 140 would take it on no problem.
    I dont see any better jeep, is the shogun long or short?

    short, gls model


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    2time wrote: »
    short, gls model

    You will have a fine peppy jeep there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 152 ✭✭2time


    friend looks at it and said that when he put it in 4wd and drove of, it was clunking (in around the driveshaft he thinks) its ok in 2wd


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    It could be numerous things, that's why i said earlier get a good knowledge mechanic. What price is it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 152 ✭✭2time


    €1600 nice clean jeep with A bar, spots and great tyres


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    Its priced right but make sure its right though also, is it a local jeep?


  • Registered Users Posts: 152 ✭✭2time


    was english but vrted in August '14,

    was hoping to get a landcruiser same age and condition but all were costing double that


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    Era people get too caught up with having a landcruiser, most ones of this era are heavily molested from bad servicing and pulling overweight boxes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,944 ✭✭✭pete4130


    Was the clunking in 4WD when it was driven on tarmac? It's probably the axles binding a little bit. Not recommended to engage 4WD on sealed roads, especially if taking tight turns. The wheels can't slip like they can on loose gravel, dirt, sand etc so the axles bind. Can be easy to damage them if you aren't careful.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,704 ✭✭✭Cheensbo


    pete4130 wrote: »
    Was the clunking in 4WD when it was driven on tarmac? It's probably the axles binding a little bit. Not recommended to engage 4WD on sealed roads, especially if taking tight turns. The wheels can't slip like they can on loose gravel, dirt, sand etc so the axles bind. Can be easy to damage them if you aren't careful.

    Transfer case wind-up shouldn't be an issue in a Pajero, They have super select 4wd which is a multi-mode setup:

    2H - Rear wheel drive only
    4H - 4wd with open centre differential (Road use)
    4H LC - 4wd with locked centre differential (same as part time 4wd)
    4L LC - Low range 4wd with locked centre differential



    As Kevin said, bring a mechanic with knowledge of these, or someone who knows them well, and they will be able to check what's needed to be checked.

    Great machines though, I've had a 3L V6 petrol and a 2.5t diesel and neither gave me any major headaches!


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    The shogun would have super select so it can be driven in 4H no problem on tarmac, even if it was 4HLc i.e with the middle diff lock on all you would have is a bit of crabbing on lock. I have often driven these jeeps in 4LLc when pulling heavy boxes on the road with no issue.
    The clunking the op is referring to sounds like a vac leak on the front axle or 4wd not engaging properly due to it not being used regularly maybe.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    Just beat me to it Cheensbo :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,704 ✭✭✭Cheensbo


    The clunking the op is referring to sounds like a vac leak on the front axle or 4wd not engaging properly due to it not being used regularly maybe.

    I'd look at the prop joints first (Universal joint, double cardian joint, hardy spicer, Hookes joint or whatever you're having yourself)

    Most likely cause of transmission clunk & cheap and easy to replace..


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    Cheensbo wrote: »
    I'd look at the prop joints first (Universal joint, double cardian joint, hardy spicer, Hookes joint or whatever you're having yourself)

    Most likely cause of transmission clunk & cheap and easy to replace..

    Forgot about that, the jeep would want to be doing alot of milage in 4H to have a wore hardy splice though would it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,704 ✭✭✭Cheensbo


    Forgot about that, the jeep would want to be doing alot of milage in 4H to have a wore hardy splice though would it?

    Depends, if it ever got a shot of grease in it's life it would for sure last longer.

    The front powertrain is always spinning regardless of power being sent through though aren't they? Hubs are always engaged so I'd imagine wear is inevitable.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,797 ✭✭✭Kevin McCloud


    Cheensbo wrote: »
    The front powertrain is always spinning regardless of power being sent through though aren't they? Hubs are always engaged so I'd imagine wear is inevitable.

    Their is a vacuam operated system in the front diff to disengage drive from the front diff to front prop shaft. The transfer box would be disconnecting drive from the other end. It may free spin im not sure on that.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 760 ✭✭✭Desolation Of Smug


    I had two of these over the years, grand jeeps, I had a 97 and a 99 both lwb- on both, play in the steering linkages was the only issue(as well as broken door-handles!) - one had just passed the doe before I bought it, but there was fair slop in the steering which I eventually came to hate.

    If you dive under and follow the steering linkages looking for where the play is, you don't be long realising that there isn't one "worn" bit, it's just a tiny bit of slop in about 15 components adding up to steering slop..I sold that to a neighbour who didn't care how sloppy the steering was as he just uses it for pottering around after cattle. I used to drive it hard and far - the steering was dull on a long journey. Worth checking.


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