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Electrolux RM 4260 3-way fridge no longer working on 12v

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2

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    #32
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    The switches have to be good quality , we had a load of p1ss poor ones so only keep genuine ones now. Dearer, €15 but they stay working. I hate having to redo ANY job. The wires are often very short at the back.


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    #33
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    The switches have to be good quality , we had a load of p1ss poor ones so only keep genuine ones now. Dearer, €15 but they stay working. I hate having to redo ANY job. The wires are often very short at the back.

    Ok thanks.

    How do you about changing this switch?

    Can it be changed via the front panel, in the picture above, or does the fridge need to slide forward from its housing to get access to the front panel to change the switch?


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    #34
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    Depends on the length of the wires to be honest. If they were left long enough, from the front, otherwise it needs to be slid out a little.


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    #35
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    Depends on the length of the wires to be honest. If they were left long enough, from the front, otherwise it needs to be slid out a little.

    Ok, and can the 3 round dials on the front panel be pulled straight off to get access to the switch? Do they need to be turned to 0 first?


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    #36
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    No they can be pulled straight off.


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    #37
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    No they can be pulled straight off.

    Ok, was trying and they weren't easily moving.
    Maybe because I was unsure and wasn't exerting enough pressure.

    Ok so assuming I get these 3 round dials and the front panel off, what then? any tips on removing the switch itself? Need a long nose pliers or something similiar?


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    #38
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I'd be inclined to use a cheap switch linked to a 10amp relay...it'll still cost less and last longer.

    The reason I said set the dials to zero is so they're easier to "calibrate" when you put them back on.

    Something like this will get the dials out quick smart.
    3736835208?src=http%3A%2F%2Fecx.images-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F31to%2BTwX%2BgL._SX300_.jpg&d=5e3dd27ed1c436f0dd255d5d3996dfca1cc4f950


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    #39
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    They only fit on one way Liam. A "D" drive. And if the OP isn't handy with electrics it'll be awkward to wire it with relay. Simple for you, not for everyone.


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    #40
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    They only fit on one way Liam. A "D" drive. And if the OP isn't handy with electrics it'll be awkward to wire it with relay. Simple for you, not for everyone.

    I'll be doing well to change the switch, let alone wire it to a relay, but I know what you mean Liam, thanks.

    @Aidan, when the front panel is off can the switch be pulled straight out? Any tips for removing it?


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    #41
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Ah, D drive is much handier, I was following convention over experience.

    I know lot's of my posts are slightly off-topic or peculiar approaches but such are the joys of forums, take it or leave it layperson advise. Lots of what I understand now is because when I was at the level of the op you guys kept telling me the right way of doing things...which I mostly neglected until the second time I went to fix something :D.


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    #42
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Benbecul97 wrote: »

    @Aidan when the front panel is off can the switch be pulled straight out? Any tips for removing it?

    ...pull the wired socket back off the switch then follow Paddyp's advice on switch removal....my two cents


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    #43
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    Sir Liamalot wrote: »
    ...pull the wired socket back off the switch then follow Paddyp's advice on switch removal....my two cents

    Yeah, I remember Paddyp's advice that you pinch the sides of the switch to release it, but if I am trying to remove this switch via the front panel how can I pull the wired socket back off the switch? I won't have access to it?


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    #44
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I expect there to be extra leeway once the panel is loose. The switch connector is just held on with friction, prob. some slack in the wires. It may want to dangle by the wires but they should be simple to disconnect...pull by the connector not the wires.
    As with most things get as far as you can with what you know and the rest might reveal itself when you are looking at it.
    Worst case scenario you may have to slide the fridge forwards.


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    #45
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    There won't be a socket on it, it's just 3 wires, usually 2 black and a white or brown, on individual push on connections.


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    #46
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    I've seen them where there was literally only 20-30mm of leeway.


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    #47
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    :DTehehe! :D


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    #48
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    @Aidan: How would you go about removing the switch once the front panel is removed?


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    #49
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    I wouldn't pull off the panel to be honest. I'd just lever out the switch, gently.


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    #50
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    I wouldn't pull off the panel to be honest. I'd just lever out the switch, gently.

    Ok, but with what? If you see the picture on post 1 (and you are familiar with this fridge) there is little or no leverage on it.


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    #51
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    hence the "gently" bit......


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    #52
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    hence the "gently" bit......

    Yeah, but with what?


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    #53
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    I have a few little homemade tools.


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    #54
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    I have a few little homemade tools.

    And with what if you dont have homemade tools?


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    #55
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    Benbecul97 wrote: »
    And with what if you dont have homemade tools?

    A thin flatbladed scredriver behind the switch bezel will take it out. Like I said though when I checked mine for you there was practically no slack on the wires you'd need to catch the spade connector with a pointed pliers to stop it springing back inside.


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    #56
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    Thanks paddyp


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    #57
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    PaddyP got there before me. I have one with a right angle bend on it.


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    #58
    Benbecul97
    Registered Users Posts: 988 ✭✭✭Benbecul97


    Thanks Aidan_M_M


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    #59
    Nickjf
    Registered Users Posts: 15 ✭Nickjf


    Hi I have just purchased a fiat ducato sundance yr 2000, have realised the electrolux rm 4200s fridge is not working, I connected the mains electric into camper switched green light to 1 , but it is not glowing to show me it is on, 12v does not seem to work either, I checked under bonnet for fuses by battery, and found a 20 amp fuse was blown,changed it , tried again, but still no fridge working? I am not even sure if that is fuse for the fridge, please help? I am new to motorhomes? Please help me? Thanks...nick


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    #60
    Nickjf
    Registered Users Posts: 15 ✭Nickjf


    Also there is a 12v 4amp fused box above fridge but I can't work out how to open it to see fuse, how do you get to fuse?.... Just out of interest are there bulbs behind green and red switches that could have blown? Maybe it is on but not glowing the switches as bulbs blown, but I still can't hear it working anyway? Please someone help? Thanks kindly...nick


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    #61
    moodrater
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,638 ✭✭✭moodrater


    Nickjf wrote: »
    Also there is a 12v 4amp fused box above fridge but I can't work out how to open it to see fuse, how do you get to fuse?.... Just out of interest are there bulbs behind green and red switches that could have blown? Maybe it is on but not glowing the switches as bulbs blown, but I still can't hear it working anyway? Please someone help? Thanks kindly...nick

    Do you have a multimeter?
    For 12v, first things first whats your leisure battery condition?
    Have you got a panel like this to check? http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=85028658&postcount=1

    If it was just the bulb you can leave it on for a while you should feel the fins internally getting cold or at least heat from the vent.


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