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Temporarily 'capping' pipes

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  • 24-02-2015 10:13pm
    #1
    bringitdown
    Registered Users Posts: 2,002 ✭✭✭


    Am fitting a new kitchen and have shutoff the valves for cold/hot feeds to the sink before removal.

    However it still drips a little, and whilst a little I don't want the concrete to get wet nor do I want to constantly have to change a bucket.

    I see you can get pipe cap nuts in Woodies etc - would that be the way to go until the new sink is in?

    It's a ~2001 house, with copper pipes.

    Thanks in advance.


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    #2
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users Posts: 5,367 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Yes you should be able to get a blank fitting to cap the pipes.

    Can you take the old taps off the old sink and just put them back on the pipes? that would stop the dripping.


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    #3
    dodzy
    Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    IMO, if like many, your shut off valves are in the hot press, this is a good opportunity to fit 2 valves under the sink to allow easy shut off in the future. Also, as is most likely the case with your place and the valves are not shutting off 100%, then capping them with push on tectite fittings will result in a surge of built up water once they are eventually removed. New valves will prevent this. Worthwhile investment for less than the price of 2 beers ;)


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    #4
    bringitdown
    Registered Users Posts: 2,002 ✭✭✭bringitdown


    dodzy wrote: »
    IMO, if like many, your shut off valves are in the hot press, this is a good opportunity to fit 2 valves under the sink to allow easy shut off in the future. Also, as is most likely the case with your place and the valves are not shutting off 100%, then capping them with push on tectite fittings will result in a surge of built up water once they are eventually removed. New valves will prevent this. Worthwhile investment for less than the price of 2 beers ;)

    Yup they are in the hot press, cheers, will look at valves instead of caps - great advice.


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    #5
    bringitdown
    Registered Users Posts: 2,002 ✭✭✭bringitdown


    Okie dokie, the pipe head is threaded (which I should have known) so a compression fitting for the valve needs the pipe to be cut which I don't have the equipment for.

    Am thinking one of these http://www.woodiesdiy.com/Product/flexibles-12-type-fc52-strpushfit-valved-x-str-swivel-500mm-long/12785/6.0.0.4#.VO7hU1WsWZM or similar should do the trick instead?


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    #6
    dodzy
    Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    bringitdown wrote: »
    Okie dokie, the pipe head is threaded (which I should have known) so a compression fitting for the valve needs the pipe to be cut which I don't have the equipment for.

    Am thinking one of these http://www.woodiesdiy.com/Product/flexibles-12-type-fc52-strpushfit-valved-x-str-swivel-500mm-long/12785/6.0.0.4#.VO7hU1WsWZM or similar should do the trick instead?
    It'll be 1/2" copper and it won't be threaded. Can you take a pic and throw it up here ?

    I'm guessing that its the male end (threaded) of a straight 1/2" coupling you are looking at and you just need to remove the entire piece to expose the female end which will be compressed onto the feed section of the pipework and then attach your valve.


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    #7
    Jimmy_M
    Closed Accounts Posts: 205 ✭✭Jimmy_M


    That should work - just be sure of your sizes - and the flexi hose is handy...

    But you could get a pipe cutter for the same price and have it for life :)

    PS: I'd be pretty sure youd get that cheaper in a heat merchants - woodies is always dearer.


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    #8
    jack of all
    Registered Users Posts: 2,367 ✭✭✭jack of all


    It's unfortunate that a lot of threads in the DIY forum are started without any pics, this one being a good example of where a pic or two would avoid a certain amount of speculation and almost guarantee a quick and easy solution.....


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    #9
    bringitdown
    Registered Users Posts: 2,002 ✭✭✭bringitdown


    Photo attached, lesson learned.


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    #10
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    bringitdown wrote: »
    Photo attached, lesson learned.

    If you undo the next nut down you'll be left with a pipe with an olive on it with a nut behind it.

    You then need a fairly standard ball valve and you remove the olive and nut from it and use the olive and nut already on the pipe.

    In effect you are replacing the middle part of the joint with the valve.


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    #11
    my3cents
    Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    The image here is what you need to fit in place of the compression fitting you currently have http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_fitting

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_fitting#mediaviewer/File:Compression_fitting_isolating_valve_15mm_screwdriver_turn.jpg .

    Edit> Ignore that the compression fitting in the picture says 15mm most if not all you get here are 1/2inch and say so on the nut, you don't need the nut or the olive on once side of the fitting.

    If you want a flexible fitting and valve all in one then this might do you http://www.woodiesdiy.com/Product/flexibles-12-type-fc43-str-compvalved-x-str-swivel-500mm-long/12784/6.0.0.4


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