Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

air valve

Options
  • 15-11-2013 11:58pm
    #1
    johnnyb6
    Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭


    Hi I want to move a air valve which is on the copper pipe at my copper cylinder. Its on the top pipe of the circuit that heats the water in tank from boiler. Whats the easiest way to drain the copper cylinder to the level below the of height of valve.

    Thanking you.


Comments

  • Options
    #2
    scudo2
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    johnnyb6 wrote: »
    Hi I want to move a air valve which is on the copper pipe at my copper cylinder. Its on the top pipe of the circuit that heats the water in tank from boiler. Whats the easiest way to drain the copper cylinder to the level below the of height of valve.

    Thanking you.
    Photo please ? + why ?


  • Options
    #3
    Billy Bunting
    Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    pressurised or tank fed ?


  • Options
    #4
    corkgsxr
    Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    Its the heating you need to drain not the cylinder.

    Its probably a auto air vent to vent the coil.


  • Options
    #5
    johnnyb6
    Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭johnnyb6


    corkgsxr wrote: »
    Its the heating you need to drain not the cylinder.

    Its probably a auto air vent to vent the coil.

    sorry for so little information. Its a pressurised system and its a air valve. My copper cylinder was leaking last year and in got plumber to replace it while I was at work. When I checked it , he had it fitted with valve against stud wall. He said it would do it no harm but it has been in my head since and if I could just move it from where it is now to about 12 inches away via a half inch copper pipe with a bend on it, it would put my mind at ease.

    I was also told by a plumber that I could keep this valve closed as its only for air and if it was closed all that would happen is the air would go to rad and it could be got out from there, I recently notices a little water coming out of it and that's when plumber said I could screw down the little screw fully and shut valve


  • Options
    #6
    JohnnieK
    Registered Users Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭JohnnieK


    It's called and automatic air vent for a reason. It automatically ex spells any air that might be in the system.

    It being up against the wall will do no harm what so ever.
    Who ever told you to keep it closed is wrong.

    It's passing water now because the little rubber stopper inside that the float acts against is perished for one reason or another.
    It would be 10mins for a plumber to replace.

    You can close it for now to stop the water while you get it replaced.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #7
    johnnyb6
    Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭johnnyb6


    JohnnieK wrote: »
    It's called and automatic air vent for a reason. It automatically ex spells any air that might be in the system.

    It being up against the wall will do no harm what so ever.
    Who ever told you to keep it closed is wrong.

    It's passing water now because the little rubber stopper inside that the float acts against is perished for one reason or another.
    It would be 10mins for a plumber to replace.

    You can close it for now to stop the water while you get it replaced.


    and if I wanted to replace it myself, do I just take pressure off system by draining some water from system from a rad and then take old one off and put new one on


  • Options
    #8
    JohnnieK
    Registered Users Posts: 2,526 ✭✭✭JohnnieK


    johnnyb6 wrote: »
    and if I wanted to replace it myself, do I just take pressure off system by draining some water from system from a rad and then take old one off and put new one on

    Spot on.


  • Options
    #9
    johnnyb6
    Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭johnnyb6


    JohnnieK wrote: »
    Spot on.

    thanks for the help. might move it with a piece of half inch copper while I replacing it. One last thing can you tell me how to bend a 12 inch piece of copper for this job into a s shape without the professional bending gear


  • Options
    #10
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users Posts: 12,736 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    johnnyb6 wrote: »
    thanks for the help. might move it with a piece of half inch copper while I replacing it. One last thing can you tell me how to bend a 12 inch piece of copper for this job into a s shape without the professional bending gear

    You can't! Maybe buy a bending spring. Call into a plumbing merchants and ask to have it bent. You'll get a few funny looks but I'm sure some plumber will oblige


  • Options
    #11
    sullzz
    Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭sullzz


    johnnyb6 wrote: »
    thanks for the help. might move it with a piece of half inch copper while I replacing it. One last thing can you tell me how to bend a 12 inch piece of copper for this job into a s shape without the professional bending gear

    There is no need to move it . But if you really feel the need to , why not just use elbows rather than trying to bend it


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #12
    johnnyb6
    Registered Users Posts: 581 ✭✭✭johnnyb6


    sullzz wrote: »
    There is no need to move it . But if you really feel the need to , why not just use elbows rather than trying to bend it

    good idea. didn't think of the elbows. I have to def change it so will c whether I move itor not. thanks for help.


Advertisement