Munster Joinery Windows

Call MJ ask them to check the instalation ,some windows have vents which alow excess sound to enter but this should not be excessive. As I said MJ are generally very good to deal with and offer good after sales servicing .

MJ are on holidays at the moment

i was hoping to get them to put in a door,
are their double glazed windows more draught proof than the ones they installed 20 yrs ago, was also hoping to change some windows, dont know yet,
i did have them install two windows a few yrs ago and was happy,

zsha wrote: »

Thanks everybody for the replies. Got mj out, cost 90e to get them out, one of my Windows were a bit foggy all the time,so he said the gas was gone in it and replaced it. The other ones regarding the sound he told me it was the vents letting in the sound and we could change them to diff ones but cost 100e each!!! So I said no to vents, he tightened Windows in both rooms and it has helped a little.
What's secondary glazing????

http://www.windowsealflyscreens.com/why-secondary-glazing/

http://www.365plastics.ie/plastic-sheets/eco-secondary-glazing.html
.

leinsterdude wrote: »

anyone know of anyone who can reseal the windows and doors, I am sure there must be someone who does it less than munster joinery themselves, looking to get all my mj wooden windows and doors resealed.

Send me a pm I should be Able to help

We got wooden double glazed Sash windows from them in 2010 for our Victorian Renovation. 9 Stand alone Windows, Up/Down Bays (6), Hall Door, Side French Doors, Rear French Doors.

We weren't happy with the sound ingress from most of them from the beginning, but thought that this was just something one had to accept with Sash windows. We had a lot of other stress and worries, financial and health wise around this time and we didn't do much investigation and just accepted it.

In about 2013 I remember a particularly stormy night where I could hear whistling from the Hall Door. This was new. Upon investigation there was a significant draught top left on the opposite side to the hinges. Next morning I examined the door and concluded it was warped in that corner and could actually see daylight from the door jamb in that area. I bought some rubber gasket seal and fit it to the door frame in that area. Upon closing the door the light was gone, the draught was gone and to my surprise, the traffic noise I thought was normal was very attenuated/decreased. It was then I understood how the tiniest gap could let a surprising amount of noise in.

I surveyed the rest of the windows and doors. Both pairs of French Doors actually did a good job of keeping out sound. None of the windows did, except for two in the kitchen. I hadn't noticed this before then because the french doors in the adjoining dining room that is always open to the kitchen were invariably open because of the dogs, so there was nearly always outside sound getting into the kitchen for that reason anyway.

In the following couple of years I developed a theory after examining the problem windows again. The builders had fit them who were since kaput and thus knew I had no comeback against MJ who would no doubt blame the builder. The openings weren't square anymore given this was a 150 year old house but they didn't shim the frames well enough when installing the windows. The frames were out of square with the panels. I could see how when closed the top and the bottom of the top and bottom sash panels closed tight to the frames on one side but not the other, with the gap opening to 5mm on one side. I assumed where the sashes mate would be the same. So gaps bottom middle and top. No major draughts or slivers of light because of ancillary seals in the frame, but not sealed tight either. I figured at some time I'd confirm my theory once and for all and come up with a solution to solve it. Health worries and stress put it on the long finger again though.

Just this week something happened to click in my foggy brain. I was sitting in the kitchen talking, the TV happened to be off for once and the French doors in the adjoining dining room happened to be closed all the while a large lorry happened to be maneuvering right outside. I could barely hear a thing. Which highlighted and reminded me that actually noise wasn't something I had to accept with sashes because these particular two in the kitchen actually did a great job. For a moment the brain fog cleared and I had a moment of inspiration. If these two windows happen to appear to seal well top and bottom it would confirm that the out of squareness of all the others was definitely the problem and would also show that once I did something to improve the seals in those other windows the improvement in noise ingress would actually be dramatic and well worth the effort and any expense. For the first time in 6 years, dumbo here had the cop on to closely examine these great performing kitchen windows for comparison.

Sure enough, PERFECT close tight fitting sealing top and bottom. These particular frames not out of square. So now I know exactly where the problem lies with all the other windows and what I need to fix. I know the improvements to noise ingress will be fairly dramatic. I just need to work out the 'How' now.

......and No. I'd never get MJ windows again.

Lukejr; I'd give MJ a ring


Meanwhile; Surprising thread! I had MJ fit every window and door in this ~ what was then a basic shell of a ~ cottage, about half a dozen years or so back.

Can't fault them! As I often point out to people: With my eighteen inch thick walls and tinned over thatch? The only way I know there's a hurricane going on is to open a door.

Looks like they've improved their services so?

antiskeptic wrote: »

I got MJ hardwood windows and doors and the quality is shockingly bad. Good enough timber work but the ironmongery is crap (hinges break, handles come loose)

Similar prob to yours. The window sash was too big and heavy for the hinge mechanism they used. It simply sagged down on the handle side. They fit a small piece of ramped plastic on the bottom of the frame (handle side) to hoick the sash up on closing - but it doesn't work

And so, the top of the sash drops below the frame seal its meant to close against (top at handle side. And noise/draught pours in.

I ran a strip of self adhesive foam draughtstrip across the top of the sash, letting it overhang the sash by 1mm. It fills the gap created by the drooping sash and contacts the windows own draught seal. Its invisible and has lasted years.

There's a good flat surface on the top of the sash to place the self adhesive strip. Just clean it off first ( MJ grease things up, up there) but don't scour the surface - the smooth paint is a great base for the strip to stick to.

it sounds like your glass needs to be toe&healed better.youtube it