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insulation question

  • 05-07-2014 2:25pm
    #1
    Mitchomagic
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 677 ✭✭✭


    The question is, I have 1" aero board behind the plaster board it.would it make a big differance to install insulated plaster board 50mm,to insulate the house.

    Thanks


Comments

  • #2
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    The more insulation the better.


  • #3
    Mitchomagic
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 677 ✭✭✭Mitchomagic


    I understand that,but I am doing some work on the house,I would have to remove the old plasterboard/aero board,so would it make in worth while to replace all with 50mm,would the benfits be worth it,or just leave it as it is

    cheers


  • #4
    Retrovin
    Registered Users Posts: 33 ✭Retrovin


    I had the same 1" aeroboard behind plasterboard in extension. The insulated boards made a huge difference when added. Money well spent imo.


  • #5
    whupdedo
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭whupdedo


    Depends what you want to spend and the level of insulation you want, I presume it's a block house with 2 by 1 counter battens to carry the slab, if your doing work on the house why not just strip the whole lot off and start anew with a higher grade of insulation


  • #6
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Why not go with 65mm?


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  • #7
    whupdedo
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭whupdedo


    Or even 100mm, details are a little sketchy


  • #8
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    whupdedo wrote: »
    Or even 100mm, details are a little sketchy

    Can you get 100mm insulated plasterboard slabs?


  • #9
    whupdedo
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭whupdedo


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    Can you get 100mm insulated plasterboard slabs?

    By god you can Sir Arthur


  • #10
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    whupdedo wrote: »
    By god you can Sir Arthur

    By God they think of everything.


  • #11
    Mitchomagic
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 677 ✭✭✭Mitchomagic


    Thanks will just remove it and replace it with 65mm,best place to get these?.

    cheers


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  • #12
    whupdedo
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭whupdedo


    Mitchomagic wrote: »
    Thanks will just remove it and replace it with 65mm,best place to get these?.

    cheers

    Maybe a hardware store ??? I don't think you'll get them in dunnes


  • #13
    Egass13
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,056 ✭✭✭Egass13


    whupdedo wrote: »
    Maybe a hardware store ??? I don't think you'll get them in dunnes

    I think lidl have them in next Thursday :):)


  • #14
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Get the U-value right anyway.


  • #15
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    I put in 100 mill boards a few years back. Best thing I ever did. For the small rooms (box room & bathroom) I had to settle for around 35 mill. Couldn't afford to lose 4" on two sides of the room.


  • #16
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    I put in 100 mill boards a few years back.

    How did you come around electrical services and getting grounds for rads?


  • #17
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    How did you come around electrical services and getting grounds for rads?

    There were no light switches on these walls. Out of all the rooms I did there was 1 socket needed extending. I used an outdoor junction box under the floor for this. No need to tell you that plastic connection blocks mightn't have been safe.

    6" screws for the rad brackets. Remembering it's solid 4",if you drill in 6", put wall plug on the end of 6" screw & push into the board. Tap it in the last 2" into the concrete wall. Screw bracket to the wall. Easy peasy.
    Hope I explained that properly. ☺


  • #18
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    .
    Hope I explained that properly. ☺

    You did spot on, the screws you used then were 6x150s?


  • #19
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Its been a few years but 5x150 or 6x150 sounds about right. A handfull of washers might be needed for some brackets but I didn't have that problem. The insulation is amazing (house built in 1964 so never had any). Gas prices go up every year so I can't put my hand on my heart & swear I've saved money on heating (maybe I have) but the comfort level in my home since is brilliant.


  • #20
    Mitchomagic
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 677 ✭✭✭Mitchomagic


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    Get the U-value right anyway.

    What is a good U-value?


  • #21
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Mitchomagic wrote: »
    What is a good U-value?

    Get it up to current regs at a minimum anyway.


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  • #22
    whupdedo
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,513 ✭✭✭whupdedo


    Whatever about u values, i always find its better to err on the side of caution, if you can afford 100 mm insulated board both financially and space wise, do so because you can't go back and do it again, also try and get a 37 mm board around the reveal and seal the window with air tight tape before slabbing, the more the better I say, but of course it all depends on what your willing to spend


  • #23
    Audioslaven
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,398 ✭✭✭Audioslaven


    Slab the ceilings as well with an insulated board (50mm) while you are at it!!


  • #24
    davidmullins
    Registered Users Posts: 1 ✭davidmullins


    In order to satisfy SEAI if the house is cavity blocks built it requires 82.5mm boards if the 100mm cavity has at the least 40mm aeroboard 50mm dryline boards are required. Ultimately the choice is yours however I personally would leave the original boards in situ and lay on top with a 50mm board, use paper tape and joint filler on the joints for better air tightness and lesson cracking and then skimcoat the entire surface. Would also advise the use of Sega tape around all four sides of the window then fit the window board. If you choose to remove the original boards you will create a mess and this kind of waste is expensive to dump due to its bulk and weight.


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