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Attic tank ballcock replacement.

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  • 17-09-2008 8:05pm
    #1
    dakan
    Registered Users Posts: 226 ✭✭


    Hi Folks

    I'm hoping someone could give me some advise on this. The ballcock in the attic water-tank, even when it is at it's highest point, isn't shutting off the water from going into the tank and the excess is going down the overflow pipe. I'm fairly sure that the hardness of the water as worn down or dissolved something.

    My question is when this happens, what has to be replaced, a washer, a valve the whole ballcock contraption. Is it a difficult job? What replacement parts should I look to buy? Thanks to anyone who gets back to me with advise.

    Thanks
    Dakan


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    #2
    ART6
    Registered Users Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭ART6


    dakan wrote: »
    Hi Folks

    I'm hoping someone could give me some advise on this. The ballcock in the attic water-tank, even when it is at it's highest point, isn't shutting off the water from going into the tank and the excess is going down the overflow pipe. I'm fairly sure that the hardness of the water as worn down or dissolved something.

    My question is when this happens, what has to be replaced, a washer, a valve the whole ballcock contraption. Is it a difficult job? What replacement parts should I look to buy? Thanks to anyone who gets back to me with advise.

    Thanks
    Dakan

    The most common ballcock valves are brass, with the ball arm hinged with a split pin on a spigot under the valve body. On the end of the valve is a knurled brass cap. If you turn off the water supply to the tank and take off the ball arm by taking out the split pin, you can then unscrew the end cap and pull out the valve plunger. In the end of it there will be a rubber disk that can be dug out with a small screwdriver and replaced with a new one. New rubber disks are available from all DIY stores, generally in packs of a few sizes, so get one first. Clean the plunger of any scale when you put it back.

    The other possibility is that the valve is clogged up and can't close properly, but if you follow the above you'll cure that at the same time. It's a ten minute job and easy to do.


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    #3
    Doctor_L
    Registered Users Posts: 94 ✭✭Doctor_L


    Hi,

    I had the same problem a few years ago the ballcock itself had filled with water so it wasn't very buoyant. I replaced the ballcock and it solved the problem.

    Liam


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    #4
    dakan
    Registered Users Posts: 226 ✭✭dakan


    Thanks ART6 and Doctor_L,
    I will buy the replacement parts and give it a try this weekend.
    Is it reasonable to assume that the stopcock for the water tank will be on the inflow pipe?

    Thanks
    Dakan


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    #5
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users Posts: 5,367 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    dakan wrote: »
    Thanks ART6 and Doctor_L,
    I will buy the replacement parts and give it a try this weekend.
    Is it reasonable to assume that the stopcock for the water tank will be on the inflow pipe?

    Thanks
    Dakan

    There probably won't be a shut-off up in the attic for it... there may be one in the hot press... but typically its fed directly from the mains pressure, so you would knock it off at the main stop cock under the kitchen sink.


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    #6
    harly1516
    Closed Accounts Posts: 143 ✭✭harly1516


    better to change the lot it only costs about 6 euro and your done for maybe another 20 year its easyer too :confused:


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    #7
    DublinDilbert
    Registered Users Posts: 5,367 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    harly1516 wrote: »
    better to change the lot it only costs about 6 euro and your done for maybe another 20 year its easyer too :confused:

    +1

    I generally don't feck about with them either, for the sake of 6 euro in plumbing wholesaler.


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    #8
    Eugbug
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 67 ✭✭Eugbug


    Replacing the washer in the tank is a quite easy job to do. Firstly you must turn off the gate valve feeding the tank (which may be near the tank or in the hot press). Next remove the end cap from the slider valve (to which the float arm is attached) and remove the split pin holding on the float arm. Hold the arm horizontally and pull it down and out of the valve. Next push out the slider.
    You can buy a new washer or cut one from a piece of scrap rubber of suitable thickness. Push it into the slider, and reassemble the valve. Turn the water back on.
    I can't post links here, but if you look up the plumbing category on HubpPages.com, I have a step by step guide showing how to do this, with loads of photos.


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    #9
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users Posts: 16,919 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Change the ball valve. It's as easy or easier. Don't be messing about with washers.


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    #10
    mosii
    Registered Users Posts: 328 ✭✭mosii


    yes,I changed one also,just turn off water supply,and change the whole unit ,take off the ball ,and buy the valve they are cheap,screw back on the ball ,easy enough.Good luck.


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    #11
    dodzy
    Registered Users Posts: 9,930 ✭✭✭dodzy


    Eugbug wrote: »
    Replacing the washer in the tank is a quite easy job to do. Firstly you must turn off the gate valve feeding the tank (which may be near the tank or in the hot press). Next remove the end cap from the slider valve (to which the float arm is attached) and remove the split pin holding on the float arm. Hold the arm horizontally and pull it down and out of the valve. Next push out the slider.
    You can buy a new washer or cut one from a piece of scrap rubber of suitable thickness. Push it into the slider, and reassemble the valve. Turn the water back on.
    I can't post links here, but if you look up the plumbing category on HubpPages.com, I have a step by step guide showing how to do this, with loads of photos.
    very complicate advice........and 6 years too late I fear.


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