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Aqualisa Energy 8.5 Shower water Outlet is leaking

  • 26-07-2014 3:06pm
    #1
    jezko
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 454 ✭✭


    Hi,

    Have a Aqualisa Energy 8.5 and it's pouring water out what looks like a bypass for the water Outlet Pipe...
    Any Ideas why? Heavy limescale area, however not much if any "Crap" restricting the water flow out pipe

    Where the (Output) Flex pipe screws on, an Inch above this is a outlet 90 degree facing/exit towards the wall and pours out water when on


Comments

  • #2
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Sounds like it is the pressure release device that has activated and that is where the water is coming from.


  • #3
    jezko
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 454 ✭✭jezko


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    Sounds like it is the pressure release device that has activated and that is where the water is coming from.

    Thanks, you are correct, just removed the PRD and checked the "ball" was able to push back in.... So temp fix.. Need go order a new one..

    No obvious Blockages in Output Pipe .... Can these just over time go? .... (Our Water Pressure supply has been variable... over last while..)

    Ta again


  • #4
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    I saw the prd go in a shower in a in an idle house during one of the cold winters. Clearly not the case now for you :p.
    It may be a faulty tco could it be possible it gone faulty?


  • #5
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    The prd is a pressure release device. It popped because the pressure built up in the heating can. If it didn't pop the can could have exploded.
    This can only be caused by a blocked hose / kink in the hose, or a blocked head / partially blocked head or as Arthur says from the water freezing. When the water freezes in the pipe the water pressure can go to 30 bar in the heating can.
    I suggest you replace the part with a new one & find out if it is the head or hose that caused the problem. If the hose is fine then try soaking the head in white vinegar over night.


  • #6
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    If you had a heavy lime scale can could that also contribute say when shower switched off and get the kettling effect.


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  • #7
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    If you had a heavy lime scale can could that also contribute say when shower switched off and get the kettling effect.

    I suppose it could. The hotter the water after it is shut off then the greater the pressure.
    IIt's limescale one way or another (unless it is the hose) kettling from limescale or blocked shower head from limescale. ☺


  • #8
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    I suppose it could. The hotter the water after it is shut off then the greater the pressure.
    IIt's limescale one way or another (unless it is the hose) kettling from limescale or blocked shower head from limescale. ☺

    Did you ever come across a tco faulty that would keep power to the elements?


  • #9
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    Did you ever come across a tco faulty that would keep power to the elements?

    Never. Because it works as a fuse (actually a double fuse). First fuse pops usually after you have had a shower. You'll hear the click. The second fuse (last line of defence) blows before it boils. I'm thinking it blows at 90° but could be wrong on that.
    I've only ever seen a faulty Tco & stone cold water.


  • #10
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    If the shower was a pumped one would a weak pump be a factor?


  • #11
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    If the shower was a pimped one would a weak pump be a factor?

    A weak pump would give less pressure. So less likely to pop the prd


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  • #12
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    A weak pump would give less pressure. So less likely to pop the prd

    True, i was thinking less pressure water not leaving the can quick enough but sure the tco would keep the tempaeature a constant.


  • #13
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    True, i was thinking less pressure water not leaving the can quick enough but sure the tco would keep the tempaeature a constant.

    If the pressure isn't good enough from the pump then the pressure switch won't activate, so no power to the elements


  • #14
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    If the pressure isn't good enough from the pump then the pressure switch won't activate, so no power to the elements

    Yes but if the pump was giving just enough pressure to satisfy the pressure switch?


  • #15
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    Yes but if the pump was giving just enough pressure to satisfy the pressure switch?

    Then the flow valve comes into play so it would depend on the setting on the flow valve.

    All I can say for sure is that every time a prd has popped (in my experience) it is either the hose or the head.
    As soon as I replace the prd I run shower without the head. If water runs ok I put the head back on. Straight away I see very little water coming out (&at odd angles) & most of the holes blocked with limescale.


  • #16
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    Then the flow valve comes into play so it would depend on the setting on the flow valve.

    All I can say for sure is that every time a prd has popped (in my experience) it is either the hose or the head.

    Super job. The prd is just a throw away item if it pops or is it ok to reuse?


  • #17
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    Super job. The prd is just a throw away item if it pops or is it ok to reuse?

    It's a throw away item. Not sure about Aqualisa price for the part but triton is around €1. At that price it's worth replacing


  • #18
    jezko
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 454 ✭✭jezko


    Sleeper12 wrote: »
    It's a throw away item. Not sure about Aqualisa price for the part but triton is around €1. At that price it's worth replacing

    Got a quote for 10 pounds for a Aqualisa prd...

    Hose is near perfect, no blockages damage or kink.

    Replaced the Head, and cleaned the small amount of Scale inside.....Very minor blockages.

    Thanks for help


  • #19
    Sleeper12
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,155 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    jezko wrote: »
    Got a quote for 10 pounds for a Aqualisa prd...

    Hose is near perfect, no blockages damage or kink.

    Replaced the Head, and cleaned the small amount of Scale inside.....Very minor blockages.

    Thanks for help

    You should replace the head with a triton, mira, Aqualisa shower head designed for electric showers. It's tempting to buy a €10 tesco shower head but these can actually make the water temperature hard to regulate. Because the holes in the head are the wrong size & there are not enough of them they actually restrict the water flow. They can be as bad as a blocked filter or blocked shower head. Depending on how much limescale is in the heating can.


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