Knitting - help and advice super thread!

zef · 25-01-2016 3:06pm

Thanks for the encouragement and info. I find knitting to be quite mindful, as I'm bored with Netflix etc, and I'll be really proud of this tea cosy!
Inspiring Ideas is right beside the pet shop, thanks, I need to go there today as the beasties need food. And I know where to look next time I'm in town, cheers!

Jellybaby1 · 26-01-2016 5:18pm

Bring yer wallet - they be expensive!

OffalyMedic · 24-02-2016 10:33am

Has anybody got a patter or advice on how to knit a flat circle with straight knitting needles. I'm trying to knit two eyes for a teddy.

tringle · 24-02-2016 2:08pm

how big is the teddy, it would be easier to embroider them on. Or crochet them. Chain about 3 stitches and join with a slip stitch to make a circle. Then into the circle you can single, double or treble crochet (depending on how big you want the eyes). Do this about 9 times and join, it should be a perfect circle. This is how you would begin to crochet a granny square.

Gatica · 24-02-2016 3:40pm

shaunac93 wrote: »

Has anybody got a patter or advice on how to knit a flat circle with straight knitting needles. I'm trying to knit two eyes for a teddy.

Personally I would try to do this using the radius of your circle as the starting row and then work around and close over the circle by joining with the starting row. I'm not sure how you'd have to calculate increases though. I would guess something like trying to work out how to knit a 90° wedge by knitting short rows and then back to long and do this across the whole circle 4 times.

wmpdd3 · 03-03-2016 9:07pm

You use wrap and turn for circles. Try YouTube for instructions, it's only hard for the first few rows then you just repeat! Size depends on how many sts you put up.

OffalyMedic · 03-03-2016 9:16pm

wmpdd3 wrote:

You use wrap and turn for circles. Try YouTube for instructions, it's only hard for the first few rows then you just repeat! Size depends on how many sts you put up.

Gatica wrote:

Personally I would try to do this using the radius of your circle as the starting row and then work around and close over the circle by joining with the starting row. I'm not sure how you'd have to calculate increases though. I would guess something like trying to work out how to knit a 90Â° wedge by knitting short rows and then back to long and do this across the whole circle 4 times.

Ended up finding small double sided needles and using them instead to make the eyes, thanks for your help though

Jellybaby1 · 06-03-2016 8:47pm

I am crocheting small size slippers. The pattern does not read right to me. The first side of the foundation chain is ok, but the second side on the other side of the foundation chain seems to be missing some chain to work into. Is there a booboo or am I reading it wrong?

Make 20 ch
Row 1: Work 2htr into second ch from hook, 2htr into next ch,1 htr into each of next 15ch, 2htr into next ch, 3htr into last chain. (that worked out perfectly fine)
Working into other side of chain, work 2htr into next ch, 1htr in each of the next 15sts. 2htr in next st, 1htr into first ch sp at beginning of work. With ss join into top of first htr. (after this I had surplus foundation chain left with nothing worked into them)

Jellybaby1 · 08-03-2016 4:57pm

Can anyone help at all?

Gatica · 09-03-2016 10:56am

Hi Jellybaby1, I think it seems right. The instructions are creating a symmetric pattern around your 20 st string. Unlike a doily, you're not crocheting a ring and then working into it.

I think the 2htr into second ch from hook creates an endpoint for your 20 st string.
2htr into next ch,1 htr into each of next 15ch, 2htr into next ch - this is the main segment that you're crocheting evenly on both sides.
3htr into last chain - this is the other endpoint.
When you're working the other side of your 20st string, you're not going to repeat crochet into the last st, you're going to crochet into the 19th st on the other side: work 2htr into next ch.
Then 1htr in each of the next 15sts, same as on the other side.
Then 2htr in next st, which would have been your 3rd st originally.
The first 2 sts form a small "ring", that's where you'll be doing 1htr into first ch sp at beginning of work.
If you draw this, you'll notice that you have 3 htr each end of your string, and each side has one 2htr, 15 single htr and one 2htr for the 17 stitches in the middle of your string.
Hope that makes sense

Jellybaby1 · 10-03-2016 12:24am

Gatica wrote: »

Hi Jellybaby1, I think it seems right. The instructions are creating a symmetric pattern around your 20 st string. Unlike a doily, you're not crocheting a ring and then working into it.

I think the 2htr into second ch from hook creates an endpoint for your 20 st string.
2htr into next ch,1 htr into each of next 15ch, 2htr into next ch - this is the main segment that you're crocheting evenly on both sides.
3htr into last chain - this is the other endpoint.
When you're working the other side of your 20st string, you're not going to repeat crochet into the last st, you're going to crochet into the 19th st on the other side: work 2htr into next ch.
Then 1htr in each of the next 15sts, same as on the other side.
Then 2htr in next st, which would have been your 3rd st originally.
The first 2 sts form a small "ring", that's where you'll be doing 1htr into first ch sp at beginning of work.
If you draw this, you'll notice that you have 3 htr each end of your string, and each side has one 2htr, 15 single htr and one 2htr for the 17 stitches in the middle of your string.
Hope that makes sense

Thanks Gatica. I've drawn it out and still not seeing the second 3htr in the pattern and I think that's what's thrown me off. Shouldn't the pattern have said '3htr in last st on the second side'? If I do that then I should be right.

looksee · 10-03-2016 9:38am

I haven't actually done this Jellybaby, but I think it looks ok. You are creating 2 of the 3 htr group at the start of the first side and the three htr group at the end of the first side, you then fill in the second side and add 1 htr onto the group of two at the end of the second side - using a ss you do not create an extra stitch with the initial 'work into the 2nd chain from hook' instruction.

You end up with 3 htr at each end, two htr either side of the three group and 15 htrs on either side. You lose one of your 20 chains at the start, then work groups of 3,2,15,2,3 = 19 ch, on the second side the 2 group goes into the opposite side of 2, 15 into the 15, 2 into 2 and one and a slip stitch into the first group of 2, making 3 at each end

Which I think is exactly what Gatica is saying, just phrased a bit differently.

Gatica · 10-03-2016 12:18pm

Jellybaby1 wrote: »

Thanks Gatica. I've drawn it out and still not seeing the second 3htr in the pattern and I think that's what's thrown me off. Shouldn't the pattern have said '3htr in last st on the second side'? If I do that then I should be right.

They don't say it's 3htr, you start with 2htr in the second st from hook, and then you finish with 1htr into the two stitch "loop" created at the start by working into the second st from hook. These 2htr at start + 1htr at the end = 3htrs at the string end that you start and end with. The other string end is half way through your instructions and explicitly asks for 3htr into the 20th st.

Here (assuming we count in lots of ten using single digits) I've bolded the end 3 htrs:
-\|--||-|-|-|--|-|-|-|-|-|--|-|-|-|-|-|-||-| /
-1-2-3--4-5-6-7-8-9-0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-0
--/--||-|-|-|--|-|-|-|-|-|--|-|-|-|-|-|-||-\

Sorry, had to use dashes for alignment because spaces get parsed out when posting

As you can see stitches 1 and 2 are worked together, stitch 3 will have 2 htrs each side, the same as stitch 19, and the other single htrs are worked on 15 stitches on each side of your string.

Jellybaby1 · 10-03-2016 10:14pm

Yes, I think I've got the visual of it in my mind now. (I learn by the visual) Gatica, your phrasing is a bit different to mine.

I should have been able to work this out myself but couldn't get head round it, but Looksee's was more familiar to me. Thanks to you both.

Gatica · 11-03-2016 10:12am

Cool, as long as you worked it out! good to have a few perspectives

Broken Hearted Road · 11-04-2016 11:55pm

Anyone experienced in knitting lace stitches?

I have a DK yarn in 100% cotton in a beautiful yellow. I'm working away trying to knit a lace stitch with it. The lace stitch I'm working on is called feather and fan and another name for it is old shale. I'm find the strands of the yarn is comes apart or loose. So I have this piece of knitting and I find in places some stitches looking awful because the strands in the yarn are loose. Would I be better off sizing down to a 4ply yarn. It means I'll have to start again on what I'm working on but I'm not far into the work anyhow.

makeandcreate · 12-04-2016 12:03am

Broken Hearted Road wrote: »

Anyone experienced in knitting lace stitches?

I have a DK yarn in 100% cotton in a beautiful yellow. I'm working away trying to knit a lace stitch with it. The lace stitch I'm working on is called feather and fan and another name for it is old shale. I'm find the strands of the yarn is comes apart or loose. So I have this piece of knitting and I find in places some stitches looking awful because the strands in the yarn are loose. Would I be better off sizing down to a 4ply yarn. It means I'll have to start again on what I'm working on but I'm not far into the work anyhow.

I am not a vastly experienced knitter, I have knitted on and off (mostly off) but I did do a fan and feather pattern top for my daughter in a dk wool acrylic mix, I would say it is the 100% cotton yarn rather than the weight, the cotton is quite loose and easy to split stitches.

Gatica · 12-04-2016 10:44am

It's always a good idea to do a swatch anyway, even if it's not for measuring size. It's a good idea when knitting lace to try a bit of the pattern to give yourself the idea of how loose or tight the knit will be. If you're finding the whole thing too loose then drop knitting needle size.
However, if I understand correctly you mean that the thread is splitting and sometime you're not knitting the full thread but have strands either side of a new stitch. Unfortunately, in this case, all you can do is just have to knit it carefully to make sure you don't lose your stitches half-way between being knitted and dropped. Also, if you could twist the thread before you knit it off your finger, would it help to keep it together and smooth?

Shackia · 13-04-2016 2:26pm

hello everyone,
My daughter came up to me the other day with a pic of a mermaid tail blanket that was knitted, she was so excited, she said she love one for her birthday in Nov!! I told he maybe her Nana could knit it for her - which i asked my mum ...but she says she needs a pattern!! Im stumped, ive looked online and cant seem to get one, im not too flush with money either at the moment and ill have to buy the wool too - which can be pricey, so was hoping to find a free pattern if possible, Can anyone help please??

thanks for reading x

Gatica · 13-04-2016 3:00pm

Google and Pinterest have mermaids tail blankets:

http://craft.ideas2live4.com/2015/12/11/crocheted-mermaid-tail-blankets/

Shackia · 13-04-2016 4:11pm

Unfortunately my mum only knits! But thanks very much good video too!

Gatica · 13-04-2016 5:51pm

You could try the Ravelry forum in case someone knows where to get a free knitting pattern.

PS: this one's not too expensive http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ladies-mermaid-tail-lapghan-cocoon-blanket

Shackia · 13-04-2016 6:24pm

Thank you

wmpdd3 · 15-04-2016 9:22pm

I made one last year, I didn't use a pattern I just winged it.

It was for a 10 year old.

I used 2200g of aran chunky acrylic. I used a knitting machine, knitting it by hand would be madness in my opinion.

Also they acrylic hasn't worn very well, if I was making it again I would make the back in fleece as its that part that has bobbled the most.

Shackia · 17-04-2016 6:12pm

Ver helpful suggestion thank you , ill keep the fleece in mind and the aran wool!

OffalyMedic · 30-05-2016 9:31am

hey, i want to make a cardigan for a newborn and i found a lovely pattern but it is for a 6-12month old. how do you change the pattern to make it smaller. pattern uses sport weight yarn, 3.5mm circular needles and dpns and Gauge is 22sts = 4” in st st. want to buy wool and needles this morning so quick advice would be greatly appreciated

Broken Hearted Road · 30-05-2016 10:37am

shaunac93 wrote: »

hey, i want to make a cardigan for a newborn and i found a lovely pattern but it is for a 6-12month old. how do you change the pattern to make it smaller. pattern uses sport weight yarn, 3.5mm circular needles and dpns and Gauge is 22sts = 4” in st st. want to buy wool and needles this morning so quick advice would be greatly appreciated

I wouldn't be able to help you much with this at all unfortunately. If it was me, I'd hold off from starting the project and a find a different pattern with a newborn size or knit it up in the size 6 - 12 months like in the pattern. Babies don't get any wear from newborn clothing anyways.

Do you have to buy the yarn today? I know of some Irish online yarn shops with overnight delivery that I used many times so let me know if you would like to know. So maybe you can hold off and keep planning the cardigan.

I came in to ask a question about baby cardigan sizes too. I have a pattern that has a few different sizes like 0-6 month, 6-12 months, 12 - 18 months, etc. I have some cotton yarns and some searches made and would like to start on this sometime this week. Will be knitting a baby cardigan for a gift and baby is due in a few weeks and I don't know what size to go for. 0 - 6 months or the 6 - 12 months.

Gatica · 30-05-2016 10:38am

The normal way would be to get something that will give you a smaller swatch measurement. However, I think at 3.5mm you're already knitting a fine cardigan, at 2.5mm you're going lace weight, so it won't be very thick and cosy.
Would you be able to reduce the pattern maybe by reducing number of stitches somewhere on it?

janmaree · 30-05-2016 10:40am

I always get into trouble when I change a pattern, I'm a fairly good knitter but I rely on the pattern for good instructions. I would go ahead with the pattern as is if you particularly like it as that baby will grow into the garment before you know it AND it gives you more time to get everything right. If you must do a newborn size, I'd honestly look for a newborn pattern. All that being said, if you go into a good wool shop, you might get more skillful advice from the staff. However it pans out, I hope you enjoy the knitting, it will be appreciated no matter what.

Broken Hearted Road · 30-05-2016 11:04am

janmaree wrote: »

I always get into trouble when I change a pattern, I'm a fairly good knitter but I rely on the pattern for good instructions.

Different poster here also knitting a baby cardigan. Your first line didn't give me much confidence. You see the pattern calls for a dk yarn and has a gauge off 22 stitches over 4 inches knit on 4mm needles. I didn't like the piece of fabric this created so I sized down in needle size to 3.25mm and this piece I love very much.

I worked a swatch and a new gauge of 26 stitches over 4 inches and did loads of calculations and studied the pattern. I was very happy and confident with my sums.

I determined the stitches per inch and multiplied that by the chest size in the size that I would like. So say for a example a 6 - 12 months size with a chest measurement of 18 inches and that will give me 117. So I went back and studied the pattern and found the size which gives me the closest to 117 stitches for the back and two fronts. So I would have to knit the 12 - 18 months if I would like a 6 - 12 months size.

I was good and happy with my sums and calculations until I read your line. Do you think would things work out for me here.

Knitting - help and advice super thread!

Comments