Painting/filler

cosmowillie53 · 23-01-2014 12:15am #1

I want to paint some old door frames and I need some advice..

There are some cracks which need to be filled. There is also the place where the old door receiver used to be which also needs to be filled.
What is the best way to fill these that will give a nice smooth finish.
I have removed all the old paint so I'm back to bare wood. Should I prime before or after using filler. I willl be painting the frames white to finish.
Thanks.

cosmowillie53 · 23-01-2014 1:09am

cosmowillie53 wrote: »

I want to paint some old door frames and I need some advice..

There are some cracks which need to be filled. There is also the place where the old door receiver used to be which also needs to be filled.
What is the best way to fill these that will give a nice smooth finish.
I have removed all the old paint so I'm back to bare wood. Should I prime before or after using filler. I willl be painting the frames white to finish.
Thanks.

NB This is a duplicate (problem with posting earlier)
Tks

shamrock55 · 23-01-2014 1:13am

Wood filler

jack of all · 23-01-2014 10:34am

The best way to fill or repair large holes (such as receiver mortises and hinge recesses etc ) in frames is to neaten up the mortise with a chisel and cut a scrap of wood to suit, glue in place and plane flush. If you don't fancy going down that route I would suggest removing paint from the area by scraping and filling with a 2 part filler, such as those used to repair car bodies. These fillers are strong, easy to shape and sand but unlike regular powder type decorating fillers they won't shrink or fall out of the repair over time. I've had great results using Davids/ Isopon to repair damaged floors, furniture and cabinets in wood and MDF, when sanded and finished the repair is strong and durable.

oisinbutler · 23-01-2014 11:39pm

jack of all wrote: »

The best way to fill or repair large holes (such as receiver mortises and hinge recesses etc ) in frames is to neaten up the mortise with a chisel and cut a scrap of wood to suit, glue in place and plane flush. If you don't fancy going down that route I would suggest removing paint from the area by scraping and filling with a 2 part filler, such as those used to repair car bodies. These fillers are strong, easy to shape and sand but unlike regular powder type decorating fillers they won't shrink or fall out of the repair over time. I've had great results using Davids/ Isopon to repair damaged floors, furniture and cabinets in wood and MDF, when sanded and finished the repair is strong and durable.

I agree. Ronseal do a good 2 pack isopon filler that will do the job for you. It doesn't shrink, but if you're filling a deep hole with it then its best to build the filler up in a couple of layers. You won't have to wait long for it to go hard.

cosmowillie53 · 24-01-2014 12:04am

Thanks for replies.
The isopon filler seems to be the way to go so I will try that. I'll do a practice run on an old piece of timber first.
Can I buy this in a paint/hardware shop.

oisinbutler · 24-01-2014 8:39am

cosmowillie53 wrote: »

Thanks for replies.
The isopon filler seems to be the way to go so I will try that. I'll do a practice run on an old piece of timber first.
Can I buy this in a paint/hardware shop.

You can buy it in most hardware shops. There are different brands, I usually use ronseal, but any brand will do.
One word of advice, don't over fill to much because you'll be there till next christmas sanding it back if you do.

jack of all · 24-01-2014 12:18pm

oisinbutler wrote: »

One word of advice, don't over fill to much because you'll be there till next christmas sanding it back if you do.

+1 on the above, but a sharp chisel can be used to pare back if you do go overboard on the filler.

cosmowillie53 · 24-01-2014 11:26pm

Thanks for the info folks. I will be getting materials over the w/end including sharp chisel.

whizbang · 25-01-2014 2:35am

Just check the cracks aren't due to movement, no amount of filling will cure this.

It may be a good idea to just tidy up the edges, and leave the gaps. Neat and sharp edges on old wood is ok.

cosmowillie53 · 26-01-2014 1:54am

I should also have asked about painting new timber. (door/architrave).
The finish will be white but what is the procedure re primer/sanding/filler (nail heads etc) finish.
Thanks.

oisinbutler · 26-01-2014 10:41am

cosmowillie53 wrote: »

I should also have asked about painting new timber. (door/architrave).
The finish will be white but what is the procedure re primer/sanding/filler (nail heads etc) finish.
Thanks.

Painting new interior timber from scratch.
1. Get a bottle of knotting and apply to all knots in the timber.
2. Prime the timber, if you are using oil/spirit based paint on the woodwork then you can get some undercoat and add white spirits to it to make a primer, about 15% for the first coat. This will seep into the timber and cause the hairs of the wood to rise. If you are using a water based acrylic paint then use an acrylic primer. Stick with one or the other ie don't use acrylic for a primer then oil based for the finish.
3. Rub down the wood with 100 or 120 grade sandpaper untill smooth.
4. Dust off.
5. Apply an undercoat.
6. When dry fill all holes.
7. Sand back the filler. If you need to fill again then do it now and sand back when the filler has dried again.
8. Dust down then apply another undercoat.
9. Use caulk to fill gaps.
10. Apply the finish coat.

If you are using eggshell/satinwood for the finish then you can use a coat of the eggshell/satinwood instead of undercoat for step 8.
If you are using an oil based paint then you must leave the caulk to dry for 24 hours before painting over it. If using acrylic then you can paint over the caulk after an hour or so.

cosmowillie53 · 26-01-2014 2:33pm

oisinbutler wrote: »

Painting new interior timber from scratch.
1. Get a bottle of knotting and apply to all knots in the timber.
2. Prime the timber, if you are using oil/spirit based paint on the woodwork then you can get some undercoat and add white spirits to it to make a primer, about 15% for the first coat. This will seep into the timber and cause the hairs of the wood to rise. If you are using a water based acrylic paint then use an acrylic primer. Stick with one or the other ie don't use acrylic for a primer then oil based for the finish.
3. Rub down the wood with 100 or 120 grade sandpaper untill smooth.
4. Dust off.
5. Apply an undercoat.
6. When dry fill all holes.
7. Sand back the filler. If you need to fill again then do it now and sand back when the filler has dried again.
8. Dust down then apply another undercoat.
9. Use caulk to fill gaps.
10. Apply the finish coat.

If you are using eggshell/satinwood for the finish then you can use a coat of the eggshell/satinwood instead of undercoat for step 8.
If you are using an oil based paint then you must leave the caulk to dry for 24 hours before painting over it. If using acrylic then you can paint over the caulk after an hour or so.

Thank you very much for your very clear instructions.
This should keep me occupied for awhile.

oisinbutler · 26-01-2014 8:03pm

cosmowillie53 wrote: »

Thank you very much for your very clear instructions.
This should keep me occupied for awhile.

You're welcome!

Painting/filler

Comments