Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Central heating leak sealer

Options
2»

Comments

  • Options
    #32
    mrcheez
    Registered Users Posts: 13,624 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    Just checked with Worcester Bosch there, Fernox F4 leak sealant is the only one they support the use of.

    Any other sealant will void the 7-year warranty.

    Is Fernox F4 completely rubbish?


  • Options
    #33
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users Posts: 12,727 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    mrcheez wrote: »
    Just checked with Worcester Bosch there, Fernox F4 leak sealant is the only one they support the use of.

    Any other sealant will void the 7-year warranty.

    Is Fernox F4 completely rubbish?

    Ye I'm afraid so. If you've fernox inhibitor then use their sealer


  • Options
    #34
    mrcheez
    Registered Users Posts: 13,624 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Ye I'm afraid so.

    Any harm in giving it a shot?

    At least if it fails I'll have an excuse to ask the RGI to get proper leak-detectors in.


  • Options
    #35
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users Posts: 12,727 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    mrcheez wrote: »
    Any harm in giving it a shot?

    At least if it fails I'll have an excuse to ask the RGI to get proper leak-detectors in.

    Get it in writing off Worcester Bosch first. Then work away


  • Options
    #36
    mrcheez
    Registered Users Posts: 13,624 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Get it in writing off Worcester Bosch first. Then work away

    Sorry get what in writing?

    If you mean the Fernox thing, the communication was via email, so I've got that.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #37
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users Posts: 12,727 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    mrcheez wrote: »
    Sorry get what in writing?

    If you mean the Fernox thing, the communication was via email, so I've got that.

    We'll if they say it's ok to use f4 then it'd be no harm to try


  • Options
    #38
    mrcheez
    Registered Users Posts: 13,624 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    Is F4 really that bad?

    All reviews I've found tend to say it works for small leaks:

    e.g. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fernox-F4-Superconcentrate-Leak-Sealer/dp/B00BJ71U3Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


  • Options
    #39
    K.Flyer
    Registered Users Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    I have used F4 a few times. ... imo.. a waste of time and money.
    I can safely say that I have had a 7 out of 10 single dose success rate with the Oxypic and no issues with the boiler later on.
    But a few words on using Oxypic.
    It can stain like a demon and the bottle is full to the brim, which makes it easier to spill.
    Also the contents settle, so it gets heavy and gloopy at the bottom of the bottle.
    I always go outside and give the bottle of Oxypic a good shake and divide it into two empty water bottles and then add some water to the bottles just to thin it out slightly and make it a bit easier to pour.


  • Options
    #40
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users Posts: 12,727 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    K.Flyer wrote: »
    I have used F4 a few times. ... imo.. a waste of time and money.
    I can safely say that I have had a 7 out of 10 single dose success rate with the Oxypic and no issues with the boiler later on.
    But a few words on using Oxypic.
    It can stain like a demon and the bottle is full to the brim, which makes it easier to spill.
    Also the contents settle, so it gets heavy and gloopy at the bottom of the bottle.
    I always go outside and give the bottle of Oxypic a good shake and divide it into two empty water bottles and then add some water to the bottles just to thin it out slightly and make it a bit easier to pour.

    Exactly what I do too


  • Options
    #41
    corkgsxr
    Registered Users Posts: 3,404 ✭✭✭corkgsxr


    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Exactly what I do too

    Me too only way.


    If you get it on anything the only solution is burn the house down.


    Also leaks from rads stain like Feck too.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #42
    mrcheez
    Registered Users Posts: 13,624 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    K.Flyer wrote: »
    I have used F4 a few times. ... imo.. a waste of time and money.

    Why exactly?

    How can so many positive reviews be wrong (not just on this site, but do a google search)?

    Are you saying that when they say it "fixed the leak" it really didn't?


  • Options
    #43
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users Posts: 12,727 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    mrcheez wrote: »
    Why exactly?

    How can so many positive reviews be wrong (not just on this site, but do a google search)?

    Are you saying that when they say it "fixed the leak" it really didn't?

    We're not saying it doesn't work. We're saying it didn't work for us


  • Options
    #44
    mrcheez
    Registered Users Posts: 13,624 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    mrcheez wrote: »
    Is Fernox F4 completely rubbish?
    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    Ye I'm afraid so.
    Dtp1979 wrote: »
    We're not saying it doesn't work.

    I think you can see where I'm getting confused... anyway my faith is somewhat restored as clearly it works in some situations and considering my leak is so small (approx 0.1 bar every 1-2 weeks) it could work.

    But the RGI did hint that they would hire the proper inspectors if it fails.


  • Options
    #45
    Dtp1979
    Registered Users Posts: 12,727 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    mrcheez wrote: »
    I think you can see where I'm getting confused... anyway my faith is somewhat restored as clearly it works in some situations and considering my leak is so small (approx 0.1 bar every 1-2 weeks) it could work.

    But the RGI did hint that they would hire the proper inspectors if it fails.

    It hasn't worked for me in the past. Therefore I consider it rubbish


  • Options
    #46
    K.Flyer
    Registered Users Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    mrcheez wrote: »
    Why exactly?

    How can so many positive reviews be wrong (not just on this site, but do a google search)?

    Are you saying that when they say it
    "fixed the leak" it really didn't?

    What I am saying is that F4 has never worked for me. And on the occasions that I did use it obviously I got called back saying that there was still a problem. I have had better results using Oxypic.
    However I will emphasis that I would always endeavour to locate and repair the leak before using any leak sealing solution. .


  • Options
    #47
    mrcheez
    Registered Users Posts: 13,624 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    K.Flyer wrote: »
    However I will emphasis that I would always endeavour to locate and repair the leak before using any leak sealing solution. .

    Seriously? Even if that means having to move out furniture (potentially leaving them exposed to the elements), rip up carpet, dig up concrete/open floors boards, etc etc

    Surely if you can avoid this by first trying a leak-sealing solution it would be better?


  • Options
    #48
    K.Flyer
    Registered Users Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    What I am saying is that I would be checking as much of the pipework and the installation as is possible without digging up floors.
    And yes, depending on the rate of pressure loss, I would try the sealant before digging up a floor.


  • Options
    #49
    Mizuno Man
    Registered Users Posts: 132 ✭✭Mizuno Man


    Ancient thread here I know - but it's one I read a couple of times while having problems recently with our central heating, so I thought I'd update it.

    Our system was constantly losing about 0.5 bar after about 3 weeks or so. So a little more than 0.1 bar a week. After unsuccessfully trying to find any sign of leaks around the entire system I resorted to a single dose of Adeys MC4 Leak Sealer. I already had their MC1 protector in the system as it was.

    The MC4 has fixed the problem for now. Pressure reduced by maybe 0.1 or 0.2 a few days after adding the sealer - probably just the air I inadvertently introduced through the Magnaclean working it's way back out again, as well as the MC4 finding it's way through the pipework - but after that the pressure has been rock solid steady for the past month. Sits at about 1.1 bar cold and gets up to 1.5 or so when all rads are on for a while.

    These sealers work by fiddling with the surface tension of the system water, so I imagine that they can only work when you are talking about tiny weeping leaks and very slow pressure loss such as we had. We have a 10 rad system with about 100+ litres in it. I guess we were losing between 1 and 2 litres a week at most. I don't think a leak involving much more than this will be fixed by a sealer. So I wouldn't be surprised that anyone who has had a negative experience with sealers, probably were trying to seal a leak that was simply too big to start with....

    Nonetheless, my experience with the Leak Sealer was a happy one. It has proven to be a massive headache saver. For the moment at least.


  • Options
    #50
    Mizuno Man
    Registered Users Posts: 132 ✭✭Mizuno Man


    Oh and one or two comments I read about the unknown interaction between a sealer and a protector that is already in the system kind of made me laugh. Any company that makes sealer are expecting whatever system it is used in to have a protector in there already. I checked with Adey myself and they specifically said both that the inhibitor doesn't interact with the sealer and also that the sealer must be left in the system permanently.

    Although I would imagine using a sealer from the same company and range that made your inhibitor would be a good idea.

    Just for what it's worth.....


  • Options
    #51
    mrcheez
    Registered Users Posts: 13,624 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    The Fernox F4 stuff worked exceedingly well on my setup. No leaks since 2014 *knocks on timber*


  • Advertisement
Advertisement