Timeless Suit designs for men

funkey_monkey · 15-05-2013 9:41pm #1

I don't wear a suit often and need one for an event soon. Arer there any 'timeless' suit designs and colours which I could opt for?

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks.

Twee. · 15-05-2013 10:25pm

Single breasted jacket with two buttons (always the bottom one undone) is a classic jacket. A standard straight leg, not slim or skinny, will be more timeless.

Colour wise, grey is very flattering on most skin tones (many shades of grey too) and works for most events. Black can be rather formal (and a little dull!). Navy suits and a crisp white shirt is just lovely.

Not crazy on pinstripes, but a light check (like Prince of Wales check) can be lovely and subtle if you want a pattern. My OH wore a three piece POW check to a wedding last year and it looked great.

The MOST important thing about a suit is that it FITS. You can buy one off the rack in M&S that will look fine, but get it tailored and it'll look amazing. And don't skimp on the shirt. No point having a nice suit if you're wearing a crappy quality shirt & tie.

Is there anyone (celebrity?) whose suits you like, or whose style you like? What sort of event is it?

dee_mc · 15-05-2013 10:36pm

The style will depend on your height and build, as well as your aesthetic preference - for example, unless you're very tall and thin don't go for a double breasted jacket style, as it gives the illusion of a wide chest and tummy.
If you're shorter, a subtle pinstripe gives the illusion of height; if the jacket sleeves are too long you will look shorter (shirt sleeves should be just visible below jacket sleeves. Trouser legs should just touch shoes.
If your upper body is very bulky you'll probably need to get jacket nipped in at the bottom so it doesn't look like the wrong size.

The shoulders are the most important aspect of the fit: no matter what the salesman says, shoulders can't be cheaply or successfully adjusted, so make sure they fit perfectly. Otherwise, be open to having the sleeves shortened (again, can't successfully be lengthened!), waist slightly nipped etc, legs shortened etc. to achieve the perfect fit; IMO it's better to buy a slightly cheaper suit and have it tailored to fit than to buy a more expensive suit that doesn't quite fit.

Black, dark grey or navy would be the most versatile: suits weddings, funerals, interviews etc etc. Anything more than a subtle, almost invisible pinstripe will look cheaper and limit your choice of colours for shirts and ties.

Emphasise that you're looking for something timeless, have it tailored to fit, and it'll keep you going for years.

Ha, didn't know I was so picky re men's suits! Happy shopping!
Edit: just read Twee's post, totally agree especially re navy and M&S!

funkey_monkey · 15-05-2013 10:39pm

It's a wedding, but I'll probably be using it for funerals, weddings, wakes, interviews, etc.

I don't really like suits. They are a necessity. Hence why I hardly wear any. I remember being told to never trust anyone in a grey suit - and that has stuck with me ever since!!!

dee_mc · 15-05-2013 10:43pm

Ha! Sounds like you need to try on a good few to see what looks best and feels most comfortable. Also sounds like you'll lose the jacket at first opportunity so make sure the pants fit perfectly! Wonder should you go for a 3 piece, waistcoat can be v comfortable and looks sharp (even when you lose the jacket!)

funkey_monkey · 15-05-2013 11:16pm

What suit colour gives the most options for shirt colour?

I'm short and slim (athletic

). Are 3pc suits in fashion - I thought waistcoats were out of style?

Twee. · 15-05-2013 11:25pm

I think grey has most options, then navy, and finally black.

Light blues and purples look well with the grey. But I think with navy, a white shirt is beeeeautiful, so slick!

Nice dark grey suit here with white shirt

Three pieces are definitely in fashion, certainly for the fashion-conscious man. The idea of the modern dandy I suppose, pocket square and jazzy socks to match!

EDIT: And if you're short, definitely a two button job, three will make your body appear long, so legs shorter.

dee_mc · 15-05-2013 11:27pm

3 piece suits may or may not be in fashion, but if they suit you they'll always look good IMO!
I would've said grey gives the most options for shirt and tie colour, but as we learned above, never trust a man in a grey suit!!
As Twee said, a navy suit always looks sharp with a crisp white shirt (avoid the red tie unless you're a member of the Labour party, maybe go silver grey tie a la Daniel Craig) but a pink or lilac shirt looks great with navy, blue shirt with a subtle white stripe looks well and has the effect of making you look taller, personally I hate the coloured shirts with white collar as I think they make a guy's neck look thick

but I suppose if it's good enough for David Beckham and all that!
I'd go for a navy before a black suit, brown's a bit blah and grey is untrustworthy, so there ya go funkey monkey!

Edit: thanks for the Daniel Craig shot Twee, that's what I'm talkin bout!

Twee. · 15-05-2013 11:33pm

dee_mc wrote: »

Edit: thanks for the Daniel Craig shot Twee, that's what I'm talkin bout!

Look at his eyes :eek:

+1 on the white collars/coloured shirt. I think it looks cheap and tacky (soz), same goes for double collar. Yikes.

If you have the money, TM Lewin will sort you for an amazing shirt, in terms of fit and quality. Get some cufflinks too, so sharp.

funkey_monkey · 15-05-2013 11:38pm

dee_mc wrote: »

but as we learned above, never trust a man in a grey suit!!

http://www.thechocolatedeli.co.uk/never-trust-a-man-in-a-silver/

dee_mc · 15-05-2013 11:46pm

Ah now funkey monkey, a silver grey suit is a whole other story! shiny suits in general are awful, in fact on that topic, invest in a pressing cloth for ironing your spinky spanky new suit to avoid that icky plastic shine!!

Twee. · 15-05-2013 11:50pm

Kid in his first Topman suit at a college ball silver suit:

Slick, swanky man in a grey suit

8969-bradley-cooper-posed-on-the-red-carpet-592x0-2.jpg

dee_mc · 15-05-2013 11:52pm

First guy is like a more masculine version of Jean Byrne in her oven-ready Christmas dress, yikes is right!

funkey_monkey · 19-05-2013 5:36pm

There seems to be a lot of 2 button suites in the shops at the minute.

I was told by a fashion geek to get a 3 button single breasted with 'roll down' on the top button (I think that is what he said), 4 working buttons on the cuffs, twin vents in the rear of jacket, flat fronted trousers with tapered legs, no turn ups.

I seen a niceish suit, it was charcoal grey with a slight pin stripe, single breasted, 2 button. I was told this is a better colour to go for as lighter colours of grey will not suit all occassions. However, I felt I loked a bit washed out in the colour.

Help?

dee_mc · 19-05-2013 7:36pm

Did they give you a proper shirt to try it on with? You really need to see the colour that would likely be closest to your face as well as the colour of the suit. I'd worry a paler grey suit would look cheaper, charcoal would strike me as more timeless too...
I wouldn't go for the 3 button unless you were very tall and slim, think it would make your body look long and your legs look short; a fashion geek may not be a 'getting the fit right' geek too! Agree re no turn-ups as they can look a bit silly to me, twin vents can be a more tapered look in a jacket and more modern, all depends which suits you better though really, same with the flat fronted trousers they'll suit some and not others! Think you'll just have to try on lots and either wear a nice shirt or ask to try some on with the suits to make sure you get a flattering colour

funkey_monkey · 19-05-2013 8:59pm

The bloke in the shop told me that I would not be tall enough (5'6) for a 3 button. Bastard!

Looks like charcoal it is then...

dee_mc · 19-05-2013 9:39pm

I think he's right, sorry Funkey Munkey! Charcoal 2 button is a solid choice

funkey_monkey · 19-05-2013 10:53pm

3%20A%20two-button,%20notch-lapel%20suit%20to%20start.jpg

Is this one a bit too 'fashionable'?

So I'm going for a dark grey 2 button.

Yes or no:
Stepped or pointed lapel?
Pinstripe or not?
Surgeon's cuffs - 4 working buttons?
Ticket pocket?
Straight trouser legs?
Slanted, seamed, or straight pockets?
Flat fronted (pleats for overweight people apparently)
Trouser cuffs?

dee_mc · 19-05-2013 11:18pm

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Is this one a bit too 'fashionable'?

So I'm going for a dark grey 2 button.

Yes or no:
Stepped or pointed lapel?
Pinstripe or not?
Surgeon's cuffs - 4 working buttons?
Ticket pocket?
Straight trouser legs?
Slanted, seamed, or straight pockets?
Flat fronted (pleats for overweight people apparently)
Trouser cuffs?

I like that suit! It looks very sharp and not too fashion led to me.
I prefer a pointed lapel.
Subtle pinstripe works for me, and for the shorter gentleman

I like a surgeon's cuff, make sure buttons are well matched (to each other and to fabric)
Ticket pockets break the line of the suit so theoretically make you look shorter, but if you like how they look, go for it.
A straight trouser leg looks good; anything too loose around the bum and thighs doesn't. Go straight leg!
No real preference re pockets! But leave them sewn shut and empty to preserve the line of the jacket!
Flat fronted if it suits you, and no cuffs please as they can make the legs look shorter IMO.
Looks like you're well on the way to the perfect suit!

Sugar Free · 20-05-2013 4:09am

Sounds like your friend was talking about making a 3 button into a 2 button by having the lapel pressed further to roll over the top button. Usually called a 3 roll 2. Not worth investing in a 3 button just for that though.

I've answered your questions below but I think you're missing the big picture. The overall fit isn't something that will change much with slanted or on seam pockets, surgeon cuffs etc. Stop worrying about all these details and concentrate on getting the broader strokes right:

1) Jacket is the right length, as a rough rule this means it covers your arse :P. A lot of places do shorter jackets now, make sure you check this and don't let them tell you it's what people wear now (it probably is but it looks crap).

2) Jacket fits across the shoulders. Google for some help on how to check this though really you'll know yourself when you try it on.

3) Fabric, spend more and get a pure wool suit.

4) Check the padding around the chest and shoulders. Is it too blocky? Does it make you look like a square box? Some suit makers will favour a more natural, less padded shoulder and construction. Others will use a more square, military English way of shoulder construction. Others still will fall in between. See what works best for you.

5) Analyse the jacket for what you will need to get altered by a tailor. Is the waist too big, could it be suppressed? Is there space around the shoulder blades on the back? Do the sleeves need to shortened? Do I have appalling collar gap etc.

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Is this one a bit too 'fashionable'?

So I'm going for a dark grey 2 button.

Yes or no:
Stepped or pointed lapel? You mean notched or peaked? Don't get a peaked lapel on a single breasted suit. It's almost never done right by high street places.
Pinstripe or not? Not at all, leave that for a 3rd or 4th suit. In more conservative views a pinstripe would be considered less formal than a solid suit.
Surgeon's cuffs - 4 working buttons? If you can find it then fine but really it's just an affectation
Ticket pocket?Again unnecessary but fine if you have it
Straight trouser legs?As long as it fits properly
Slanted, seamed, or straight pockets? By straight do you mean offset welt? I doubt you'll find those on RTW suits. On seam look a bit cleaner standing up but tend to billow badly when you sit down. I'd say slanted/on or on seam, not hugely important.
Flat fronted (pleats for overweight people apparently) Flat front
Trouser cuffs?Personal preference, I'd say leave them out.

funkey_monkey · 28-05-2013 10:24pm

Arghh!!!!

Still not got this sorted and I need it for 3 weeks time!!!!

What about one of these?

http://www.next.co.uk/g38306s5#137677g38s36?i=36

http://www.next.co.uk/g38304s2#112655g38s36?i=36

http://www.next.co.uk/g64246s11#817545g64s36?i=36

http://www.next.co.uk/g64248s9#825963g64s36?i=36

Twee. · 28-05-2013 10:27pm

I like the first and third, not mad on stripes personally.

funkey_monkey · 28-05-2013 10:30pm

Twee. wrote: »

I like the first and third, not mad on stripes personally.

Glad you said that, as I was usure about them too. I wonder i Next would be able o tailor them for me as my shape is as uniform as an irregularly shaped freeformed drawing.

Twee. · 28-05-2013 10:53pm

Next don't do tailoring (used to work there). Where would be convenient for you? I'm sure someone could recommend a place for you.

Sugar Free · 28-05-2013 11:20pm

Agree with Twee on the suit choices. If I had to pick, I'd go with the third link as it's pure wool and will both conform to your shape and last longer than the other blends they have.

Although I really don't like the way they're all centre vented but you can't have everything!

funkey_monkey · 29-05-2013 2:48pm

I went down to look at them at lunch time and I don't like the centre vent either. Might go back to a tailor and see what they have in stock.

Will I get something decent for about £140GBP?

funkey_monkey · 30-05-2013 5:39pm

HOF has a sale on now. There is a slight possibility that the remaining 98% of the population will finally get to experience what it is like to buy something in the place now!

http://www.houseoffraser.co.uk/Suits/2130,default,sc.html?pmin=30&pmax=150&prefn1=Parent%20Colour&prefv1=Grey&fix&spcl

Timeless Suit designs for men

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