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varnishing skirting/doors/etc - new build

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  • 19-09-2011 9:45am
    #1
    creedp
    Registered Users Posts: 5,638 ✭✭✭


    Hi

    I am just about ready to start varnishing internal woodwork of new build. I have white oak shirting/doors/stairs and red deal window boards (to match pine windows). I also have oak slats on one wall of bathroom. What is the best varnish to use for this purpose? Should I use different stuff for stairs/bathroom? Also I have a bit of time on my hands and funds are pretty low but is this a job I should leave to the professionals?

    Thanks


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    #2
    One shot on kill
    Registered Users Posts: 2,247 ✭✭✭One shot on kill


    i woulnt use varnish the varnish changes colour after a while i personaly dont like it

    i would use a water based lacquer its far nicer and easyer to use

    dont mind anyone that says water bassed isnt tough enough the stuff they are maken now is more than good a hard enough just make sure and look into what your buying


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    #3
    earpiece
    Closed Accounts Posts: 550 ✭✭✭earpiece


    Yep...agreed, go with the water based lacquer - suggest Becker Acroma (Ballymount, Dublin), dries in no time.


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    #4
    1chippy
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,716 ✭✭✭1chippy


    i personally find a poly urethene varnish is the best option. you can mix in a matting agent the less sheen you want. definately the best option for stairs. i usually use a pre cat lacquer for skirting, doors and architrave.


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    #5
    slowburner
    Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 5,219 Mod ✭✭✭✭slowburner


    creedp wrote: »
    Hi

    I am just about ready to start varnishing internal woodwork of new build. I have white oak shirting/doors/stairs and red deal window boards (to match pine windows). I also have oak slats on one wall of bathroom. What is the best varnish to use for this purpose? Should I use different stuff for stairs/bathroom? Also I have a bit of time on my hands and funds are pretty low but is this a job I should leave to the professionals?

    Thanks
    Polyurethane varnishes darken wood more than acrylic/water based finishes so if you want to keep the 'blondeness' of the white oak - water based would be the better choice.
    There's a lot to be said for water based finishes when it come to cleaning up and they are tough and quick drying; they don't smell as much either.
    No reason why you shouldn't tackle the job yourself.
    The most important thing is to sand back after the first coat. The first coat raises the fibres of the wood and when the coat is dry and sanded back the next coat should be smoother. Sanding between subsequent coats might also be necessary - it all depends on the quality of finish you want or expect.


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    #6
    creedp
    Registered Users Posts: 5,638 ✭✭✭creedp


    slowburner wrote: »
    Polyurethane varnishes darken wood more than acrylic/water based finishes so if you want to keep the 'blondeness' of the white oak - water based would be the better choice.
    There's a lot to be said for water based finishes when it come to cleaning up and they are tough and quick drying; they don't smell as much either.
    No reason why you shouldn't tackle the job yourself.
    The most important thing is to sand back after the first coat. The first coat raises the fibres of the wood and when the coat is dry and sanded back the next coat should be smoother. Sanding between subsequent coats might also be necessary - it all depends on the quality of finish you want or expect.


    Thanks for all the replies here. I have to say there is an attractivness to the water based products which is more natural/less toxic. I recently painted all internal woodwork in my existing house with white gloss paint and I was nearly out of it with the smell which lasted quite a long time so if the water based products avoid this issue that's a positive. If they also better maintain the natural wood look that would be a bonus particularly for doors and skirting. Im a little uncertain, however, about their durability for the threads of a stairs given the abuse they would have to take. Anyone use the water based finishes on a stairs and how long would it last?

    Thanks


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    #7
    One shot on kill
    Registered Users Posts: 2,247 ✭✭✭One shot on kill


    with the water based you could always sand the treads and re coat them and the colour shouldnt vary to much at all but between coats and. to refinish id be only sanding with a denibbing block prob 200 - 400 grit sponge block more than enough

    but the poly would prob be tougher there but to be honest it will ware aswell

    the most important thing about waterbase is give it enough time to dry properly all the way threw if you go to rub ands its a little wet stop and wait longer


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    #8
    cardwizzard
    Registered Users Posts: 1,385 ✭✭✭cardwizzard


    OP no matter what you put on, it will darken the wood somewhat. If it was my house, I'd sand and sealer all wood first. This stuff stinks the house out. Really bad. But it does an amazing job, deep penetrating. I'd go with an oil based as I believe they are still miles ahead of water based stuff. Both have pros and cons, but IMO oil is ahead.

    Always do a sample area first. I find doing the back of a hot press door or something similar is useful. Do the top half one way and the bottom another. This will let you make an informed decision.

    For the threads try a floor varnish, it'll last longer.


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    #9
    creedp
    Registered Users Posts: 5,638 ✭✭✭creedp


    cardwizzard wrote: »
    OP no matter what you put on, it will darken the wood somewhat. If it was my house, I'd sand and sealer all wood first. This stuff stinks the house out. Really bad. But it does an amazing job, deep penetrating. I'd go with an oil based as I believe they are still miles ahead of water based stuff. Both have pros and cons, but IMO oil is ahead.

    Always do a sample area first. I find doing the back of a hot press door or something similar is useful. Do the top half one way and the bottom another. This will let you make an informed decision.

    For the threads try a floor varnish, it'll last longer.


    Thanks so basically there is no clear winner here so its decision time and I hate those:). In relation to brands of water based of oil based products any clear winners? Also when sanding stairs threads or doors and skirting should I only use a sanding block .. is there ever any need to use a mechanical sander?

    Thanks for advice. Even if I don't do the job myself I'll be well informed when seeking quotes.


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    #10
    cardwizzard
    Registered Users Posts: 1,385 ✭✭✭cardwizzard


    Should be no need for a machine for this type of sanding, Paper and pads would normally do. Real important to remove all glue, pencil marks, scuffs etc prior to any treatment, as its a nightmare to remove when the wood is sealed.

    As far as which is best, it depends on your budget. There is pretty wide extremes on price.


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    #11
    creedp
    Registered Users Posts: 5,638 ✭✭✭creedp


    cardwizzard wrote: »
    Should be no need for a machine for this type of sanding, Paper and pads would normally do. Real important to remove all glue, pencil marks, scuffs etc prior to any treatment, as its a nightmare to remove when the wood is sealed.

    As far as which is best, it depends on your budget. There is pretty wide extremes on price.


    Thanks for advice


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