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Central Heating Problem

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  • 04-01-2014 12:40pm
    #1
    multifunction
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭


    Hello
    The oil fired central heating has stopped heating the water but continues to heat the rads on both floors.The hot water cylinder is located in the attic. The little red football like tank for the heating is also located in the attic and the pressure clock on this is reading zero.I have tried adjusting this but no good.This problem seems to have happened since I bled two rads.Any help appreciated.


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    #2
    sullzz
    Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭sullzz


    multifunction wrote: »
    Hello
    The oil fired central heating has stopped heating the water but continues to heat the rads on both floors.The hot water cylinder is located in the attic. The little red football like tank for the heating is also located in the attic and the pressure clock on this is reading zero.I have tried adjusting this but no good.This problem seems to have happened since I bled two rads.Any help appreciated.
    Post a picture of the gauge and any valves including the one you were adjusting, did you manage to increase the pressure.


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    #3
    scudo2
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    The automatic filling valve ( a bit of a contradiction) if that's what you have, sometimes get stuck and needs adjustment, preferably by a plumber, and the red tank will also have to be checked and pumped up to 0.75 bar air pressure if it hasn't been done lately.


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    #4
    multifunction
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭multifunction


    Thanks for the replies
    The only thing I touched was the the knob on top of gauge


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    #5
    Egass13
    Registered Users Posts: 1,056 ✭✭✭Egass13


    multifunction wrote: »
    Thanks for the replies
    The only thing I touched was the the knob on top of gauge

    The black knob opens and closes the valve . The brass square head screw underneath adjusts pressure . You may need to slacken off the lock nut and wind it in clockwise to bring the pressure up .


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    #6
    sullzz
    Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭sullzz


    I'd also be finding out why the pressure reducing valve is fitted, more than likely to cover a leak which is rotting your heating system from the inside out, repressurises your system to 1.5 bar then close the black knob and monitor it to see how long it takes to drop to zero, take readings when system is cold.


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    #7
    Egass13
    Registered Users Posts: 1,056 ✭✭✭Egass13


    sullzz wrote: »
    I'd also be finding out why the pressure reducing valve is fitted, more than likely to cover a leak which is rotting your heating system from the inside out, repressurises your system to 1.5 bar then close the black knob and monitor it to see how long it takes to drop to zero, take readings when system is cold.

    Good point , I don't like those auto fillers at all , defeats the purpose of a sealed system


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    #8
    sullzz
    Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭sullzz


    Egass13 wrote: »
    Good point , I don't like those auto fillers at all , defeats the purpose of a sealed system

    Aye, and I was at one the other day an expansion vessell in an attic had corroded and burst, it had an auto filler valve located beside it pissing water into the system as quick as it was leaking


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    #9
    scudo2
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    .75 Bar is what I recommend as gauge is in attic = 1.5 bar (aprox) at ground level in the house.

    1.5 Bar in the attic could give 2.25 bar at the boiler before it heats up and could then put the pressure up to 3 bar.

    And only .75bar in pressure vessel.
    ( when it's also in attic)

    Any opinions?


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    #10
    multifunction
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭multifunction


    I tried the brass screw but it had no affect on the pressure gauge. Should the valve be open or shut.Is it ok to run heating as it is?


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    #11
    pat35
    Closed Accounts Posts: 63 ✭✭pat35


    Did you open the black knob?,its possibly closed


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    #12
    multifunction
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭multifunction


    pat35 wrote: »
    Did you open the black knob?,its possibly closed

    twisted it but it made no difference.maybe i should be twisting the screw on top of black kob


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    #13
    Egass13
    Registered Users Posts: 1,056 ✭✭✭Egass13


    multifunction wrote: »
    twisted it but it made no difference.maybe i should be twisting the screw on top of black kob

    The knob might be rung , take the screw out , remove knob and use a grips to turn the spindle


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    #14
    Egass13
    Registered Users Posts: 1,056 ✭✭✭Egass13


    multifunction wrote: »
    twisted it but it made no difference.maybe i should be twisting the screw on top of black kob

    The knob might be rung , take the screw out , remove knob and use a grips to turn the spindle


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    #15
    multifunction
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭multifunction


    Egass13
    Indeed the knob was rung.Opened and got the pressure gauge up to 1 which it was at before I think.Is it ok to run the heating now and would bleeding the two rads have caused the problem
    thanks


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    #16
    Egass13
    Registered Users Posts: 1,056 ✭✭✭Egass13


    multifunction wrote: »
    Egass13
    Indeed the knob was rung.Opened and got the pressure gauge up to 1 which it was at before I think.Is it ok to run the heating now and would bleeding the two rads have caused the problem
    thanks

    It would as with the valve off and the system no refilling itself then by bleeding the rads your letting the pressure off . Should be ok now but as was mentioned earlier I'd look into why that valve is fitted and if possible remove it and fit a manual filling loop instead .


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    #17
    multifunction
    Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭multifunction


    I built the house ten years ago and the plumber fitted that valve


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