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converting open vented to sealed system

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Comments

  • #52
    pat35
    Closed Accounts Posts: 63 ✭✭pat35


    shane0007 wrote: »
    That's fine. It's on the return. Just close it fully & open back one full turn.
    Yes,thats done,it was open two turns.What will i do about the radiator issue though.i cant plumb the return on the opposite side.They appear to circulate very poorly.Picture in last post of radiator


  • #53
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    As I said back to original plan. If the rads can only be piped on one side, then it is a re-pipe & replace rads.
    It might be a good idea to get a decent plumber in to assess the installation in person before going to any great expense as we can only be as accurate as the information we have to hand. There is nothing better than standing there looking at it.


  • #54
    K.Flyer
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    I was just looking again at the picture of your radiator pipes.
    Do you have two seperate pipes coming out of the ground and one pipe going directly to the lower valve and the other pipe going directly to the top valve and are all your radiators done this way?


  • #55
    pat35
    Closed Accounts Posts: 63 ✭✭pat35


    K.Flyer wrote: »
    I was just looking again at the picture of your radiator pipes.
    Do you have two seperate pipes coming out of the ground and one pipe going directly to the lower valve and the other pipe going directly to the top valve and are all your radiators done this way?
    yes,All rad the very same.Shane said they are a poor circulating radiator and his advice was to move one of the pipes to the opposite side of the rad and this would fix the poor circulation.How ever as you can see from the pictures a cant move one pipe to the opposite side so im feeling a bit lost as to what i should do with them


  • #56
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Can you post a pic of the left side of that rad? Top/bottom


  • #57
    K.Flyer
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    Are all the radiators lacking heat or just some and did the system ever work well before?


  • #58
    pat35
    Closed Accounts Posts: 63 ✭✭pat35


    K.Flyer wrote: »
    Are all the radiators lacking heat or just some and did the system ever work well before?
    Not really,it has always been an uphill battle to get heat to circulate correctly in all radiators


  • #59
    pat35
    Closed Accounts Posts: 63 ✭✭pat35


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Can you post a pic of the left side of that rad? Top/bottom
    i have a picture in post 31.pic is sam2024.The second picture is in post 51, pic is sam2030.These pictures are the two opposite ends of all the radiators.


  • #60
    K.Flyer
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    If it has never been right I think its best to do as Shane advised and get a decent plumber who understands heating systems to come and take a look at it and see what is the best solution for you.
    There are so many variables that might need to be taken into consideration and yet it may be a simple solution as well. Unfortunately your radiators are not going to help you at all and you would be better off changing them for better results.


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  • #61
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    Sorry never looked at that one.
    Yup, IMO it's a rad replacement & re-pipe the to the other side. Solder elbow from where it exits the floor, kick to skirting, along back of rad & a kick to valve. Shouldn't even be seen.
    All in copper though.

    A good chance to ensure the rads are sized correctly as pipework will be ran to suit the rad.
    I would still powerflush the system in case of sludge going into new rads.


  • #62
    pat35
    Closed Accounts Posts: 63 ✭✭pat35


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Sorry never looked at that one.
    Yup, IMO it's a rad replacement & re-pipe the to the other side. Solder elbow from where it exits the floor, kick to skirting, along back of rad & a kick to valve. Shouldn't even be seen.
    All in copper though.

    A good chance to ensure the rads are sized correctly as pipework will be ran to suit the rad.
    I would still powerflush the system in case of sludge going into new rads.
    Il be able to do the majority of them underground as nearly all rooms have carpet.How would you calculate the rad btu output or what sizing calculater should i use?


  • #63
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    pat35 wrote: »
    Il be able to do the majority of them underground as nearly all rooms have carpet.How would you calculate the rad btu output or what sizing calculater should i use?

    Mear's calculator are pretty good or a detailed heat loss calculation based on actual U values of the affected building fabrics that are actually present in each room.

    But that's a whole other thread....


  • #64
    pat35
    Closed Accounts Posts: 63 ✭✭pat35


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Mear's calculator are pretty good or a detailed heat loss calculation based on actual U values of the affected building fabrics that are actually present in each room.

    But that's a whole other thread....
    Ok,Thanks for your time,


  • #65
    pat35
    Closed Accounts Posts: 63 ✭✭pat35


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Sorry never looked at that one.
    Yup, IMO it's a rad replacement & re-pipe the to the other side. Solder elbow from where it exits the floor, kick to skirting, along back of rad & a kick to valve. Shouldn't even be seen.
    All in copper though.

    A good chance to ensure the rads are sized correctly as pipework will be ran to suit the rad.
    I would still powerflush the system in case of sludge going into new rads.
    I changed all the radiators,All pipes underground.I fitted an automatic air vent in the boiler house.The system was clean so i did not powerflush,I dont have one!.Heating now working perfect.Ten years of pain is over,Thanks


  • #66
    freddyuk
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭freddyuk


    Chances are doing the rads would have sorted your problem without worrying about pressurising the system. In case anyone has a similar problem.


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  • #67
    pat35
    Closed Accounts Posts: 63 ✭✭pat35


    freddyuk wrote: »
    Chances are doing the rads would have sorted your problem without worrying about pressurising the system. In case anyone has a similar problem.
    I didnt pressurised the system afterwards.I just changed the radiators.You are correct,Thanks,


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