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Labrador puppy diaries - our first days of dog ownership

  • 06-02-2011 9:22am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭


    Hi folks, yesterday Cloe a lab retriver joined our family. She was born the 10th of december and is just 8 weeks old.

    In terms of crying (and I guess I already know the answer is "how long is a piece of string"), she cried enough to keep us awake all night last night - crying/whining/howling for about 5-10mins at 12, 3, & 5. We kept her in the hall outside our room with the door open, and a clear view of us in bed - as per advice we got. When she cried we ignored her, but I gave a loud "ssshhhttt" when she howled (I was cracking and worried about the neighbours) and a disapproving "go to bed/enough". I understand I'm not supposed to "scold" but I was cracking up a little.

    Can we expect more of the same tonight, tomorrow, ... for the rest of... how long?

    In another note, we've a vet check this afternoon and I'll get advice from them, but in the meantime - is there anything I can use to wash her? I take it soap/head & sholders etc isn't on?

    Thanks folks.
    A very wrecked, but proud, Zulu.


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 78,493 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    Does she have any creature comforts - blanket, hot water bottle, ticking clock that will make things feel a bit more like being at home?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    yea I had a big woolen blanket which I had her littermates playing on (and I gave them all a good rub with it) in the hope that it would keep a trace of their sent. And we gave her a hot water bottle and a pillow. She appeard to prefer the pillow and didn't seem to use the hot water bottle or blanket.
    We couldn't find a ticking clock would you believe! :rolleyes:

    We also put a sock she seemd to enjoy yesterday & a tennis ball.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,190 ✭✭✭✭IvySlayer


    The first night is the worst. Within a few nights she'll learn her crying will get her nowhere.

    You'll need to get dog shampoo to wash her. Human shamppo is unsuitable in terms of Ph balance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    dove soap the same then i take it?

    Yea last night was really hard. Hopefully she'll be feeling more at home tonight. Hopefully.

    Any other tip/tricks/hints very welcome...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 376 ✭✭ashblag


    ah congrats:D and welcome to puppy hood:D

    Every dog is different my little guy is 17weeks we got him at 7weeks and it took nearly 3weeks for him to settle at night. It is really tough to listen to them but once he isn't hungry,or needs the loo,then best to ignore the cries.

    I left the radio on low volume for my guy and put a jumper I was wearing in his bed and that seemed to help!

    Good luck,let us know how you get on...

    Any pics?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 453 ✭✭sotisme


    Don't worry,it's perfectly normal. Your puppy has been living in the same place all her life with the company of all her littermates. Then she is brought to this completely "strange"(to her anyway!:p) environment without any of her littermates. She is not settled yet so that's why she's whining. She will soon get used to it and should settle in well:D
    Keep using the hot water bottle ect. When my dog was a pup I put an old tshirt that "smelt of me" in his bed so he didn't feel alone!I think it worked!
    good luck and enjoy her while she is a puppy!they grow up too quick!:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 453 ✭✭sotisme


    Also,I forgot to mention,johnsons baby shampoo is the only human shampoo that is good for pups afaik.It is very gentle and doesn't irratate them at all:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 107 ✭✭Ailishcrehan


    You can use Johnsons Baby Shampoo if you cannot get dog shampoo as it is mild and also smells lovely! Though it is tiring for the first few nights, your puppy will settle, everything is just so new and its a bit of a shock to the system to leave mammy and littermates, so just keep up the routine and he will settle. Make sure he is really tired at bed time too, so play lots of games with him during the day and stimulate him so that when it comes to bed time, he will be tired. Mental stimulation is just as important as exercise (am presuming he cannot be walked yet if he is 8 weeks old as vaccinations wouldn't have kicked in yet) so lots of games in the house or back garden, try teaching him to sit and stay (never too early to begin this type of training), the more he uses his brain, the more likely he will be to sleep. Having said that, this is just my experience with my own dogs and I foster for an animal rescue group so have had lots of puppies in too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 107 ✭✭Ailishcrehan


    sorry, just realised your pup is a she, not a he!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    With the crying, unfortunately you just have to ignore. Any sort of attention, even shush'ing her or telling her to be quiet is attention and she will continue to cry if she gets attention.

    I would try trying her out before bedtime, a big play session out in the garden or around the house. Shes still too young for walks outside until shes over all her injections.

    With the shampoo, some dogs can be very sensitive to i wouldnt advise any human shampoo, even baby shampoo. I would get a good puppy shampoo from the pet shop.

    Also, theres no need to wash your pup too often. Once a month would be more than enough.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    cheers folks. Think I'll try the radio tonight. I can bear the wimpering, but the howling must have been keeping the neighbour up. I've to call in next door late with a bottle of wine & an apology. They must be wondering what the hell was happening last night!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    in terms of "tiring her out" should I be trying to keep her awake during the day? She's asleep at my feet as I type!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    Ah no, not at all. Puppies need to sleep so let her sleep during the day when she needs to.
    Just before bed just play with her for a while to really tire her out to help her sleep.
    Also another thing, are you getting up to let her out to the toilet during the night? Pupps cant hold it for much longer than a couple of hours at the most so she will have to go during the night so she could be crying for that reason as well.
    Have you considered crate training at all?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    Yea I got up twice for her last night. Missed the ticket the second time, and destroyed the place the first time carrying her outside.
    I'm going to collect a create from my friend tomorrow, so crate training will begin then.

    How long is a "long time" to be playing with her? and is there anyway I can tell if shes getting knackered? (I understand <apparently> yawning is a sign of fustration and not nessisarly tirdness?!?)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,678 ✭✭✭Officer Giggles


    i cracked the first night with my new fella, he was 10weeks old, i ended up sleeping on the couch in the room we had him in, the nest night we let him cry his heart out all night and from then on not a thing out him it was great


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    It really does depend. All pups are different with different energy levels so just see how your pup goes, she will tell you herself once shes getting tired. Could be 15 mins, could be an hour.

    Just make sure with the crate training you do some reading up on it and how to do it with your pup. There is loads of info on here on online if you search for it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,974 ✭✭✭Chris_Heilong


    A create is the way to go all right. you said she cries 5-10mins at 12, 3, & 5, this sounds exactly the times an 8 week old would need to go to the toilet. When she cries it might not be for attention but to say let me out, are you finding soiled bedding the next day?

    You will need to get up at least once a night if you want her not to go in the house. Even in a create she will cry about twice a night to go poo.

    I am going trough this at the moment, my puppy cries for everything. But is getting better with each week.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 220 ✭✭Narsil


    I dont know if this will make a difference but:

    When our fella was a baby, he would freak out if he could see us and not get to us(like through a baby gate/crate) and he used to calm down when he was fully seperated. Even in the car when he could see us from his crate he used to get very anxious, but when we put him in the boot he calmed immediately

    We only put him behind the baby gate then as his 'time-out punishment' for 30 seconds and it worked a treat:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    Thanks a million Narsil - you might be on to something.

    Last night was bad again. She cried/howled for 30mins at 11ish. Then for over an hour ar 2:30. I think that really knackered her out, cause she was quiet until 6:30, and only cried for a few minutes.

    During the hour of crying & howling, I cracked. I figured she needed a toilet break and couldn't decide if going out was pandering to her crying. In the end I went out - ignoring her - and opened the back door. She went out, but did nothing. After a few minutes she just lay down so I brought her back in and went back to bed. She started up again.

    I ended up taking away the baby gate and just closing the door. While this lead to total melt down & trying to dig through the door, and an epsode far worse than the night before, she completly knackered herself out, and thankfull slept to 6:30.

    Here's a question: I was planning on getting up at 6:30 (my usual week day rise time), but she beat me to it. My thinking was let her have her have her cry, and wait till she goes to sleep before getting up (so she doesn't think your pandering to her). So I got up at 7:30 after she's gone back asleep for 20-30mins.

    So how do I determine a call for toilet from a call for night time attention/company?

    (by-the-by, thanks for your help guys, it's been great being able to vent here)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 220 ✭✭Narsil


    We used to put our fella, Ghost, to bed at 10.30 ish and he would cry around 3 for a pee so we got up,said nothing and took him out. Gave him a bit of time to wee and straight back to bed then. Ignored everything after that until 6.30am as he was able to hold it for the 3 hours.

    It took Ghost until around 6 months of age to stop waking early and scratching the door, but now he is 1 and and doesnt make a sound until we get up to him,even until 10 at the weekends:). He's calmed down so much since he was a puppy!

    Dont worry she will get there,shes only a little baby learning about her new home and life and it will take her a while to relax, but you need to keep your plan in your head and dont cave in no matter what;)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    I wouldnt wait until she cries to let her out to the toilet. Set your alarm and get up and let her out. Dont give her any attention, talk to her etc, just bring her out and wait until she goes to the toilet and put her back to bed again with minimal interaction.

    Theres no way your pup can hold it all night so its unfair to expect her to. At 8 weeks she prob would need 2 toilet breaks at night.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    Hey andreac, I've been looking through the threads on crate training, and we're going to start today. I understand that we don't close the door the first night, that we build up to it. ...but how long before we lock the door? (for a few hours at a time during the night)

    Also, I'd appricate any links you'd recommend on crate training. (naturally I'll google myself, but if you had a particular one, I'd really appricate it)

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    <snip>


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    Ok, night 3 was a huge success. We got the crate set up and she loves it. It took her no encouragement to go into it - brave little girl - and she wasnt upset when I initially closed the door behind her (the first time).

    So about an hour and a half before bed, when she was calm I put her in it with a toy, covered it with a blanket and locked the door. She cried for about 10mins but we all kept talking, ignoring her, with the radio on until she settled. When she was quiet for 10mims I lifted te blanket and opened the door. She was happy out and had to be called out of the crate!
    So after nighttime walk (5mins outside for toilet) we came back and watched tv for a few mins until she was dozing at our feet. Then we lifted her in, with her hotwater bottle, kong, pillow, towel & turned out the light.
    An hour later she woke and whimpered for 10mins then it was zzzzzz all the way to 3am. She cried for an hour and slept the rest of the night. I lifted her outside for toilet at 7am and her crate was poopless!

    Crates are great - I don't know how anyone could knock them. She loves the bloody thing!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    Thats great, but i wouldnt be expecting her to hold her toilet all night at that age, its unfair and even though she didnt go last night, she could easily need to go any other night.
    Thats probably why she cried at 3 am so dont leave her the whole night in the crate just yet without a toilet break.

    I really would wake up once at least during the night and let her out for a few weeks anyway until her bladder gets stronger and she can hold it for longer.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    Hi Andreac, thanks - I'll post pictures later - very happy & proud owner today!!!

    In terms of getting up at night - I've no problem with that, only I really want to crack the crying/litter separation thing quickly (it's not fair on her to drag it out). How can I answer her toilet cry, without pandering to a cry for attention? How can I tell the difference if you know what i mean??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    Zulu wrote: »
    Hi Andreac, thanks - I'll post pictures later - very happy & proud owner today!!!

    In terms of getting up at night - I've no problem with that, only I really want to crack the crying/litter separation thing quickly (it's not fair on her to drag it out). How can I answer her toilet cry, without pandering to a cry for attention? How can I tell the difference if you know what i mean??

    If she was quiet up until 3am, then i would def say it was a toilet cry.
    So just get up, let her out, no interaction as i said in another post and straight back to bed. Maybe give her a little treat when she goes back in to bed. Dont talk to her, apart from saying the code word for wanting her to go to the toilet.
    Pups cant hold it for longer than a couple of hours so its not fair to ask her to hold all night and she will end up going in the crate as they cant hold their bladder at that age.
    You can gradually extend the time frame over a couple of weeks/months so eventually she will hold it until next morning.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 115 ✭✭Skadi


    Just to post my experience. We got a new pup at the weekend and the first night she cried (and howled). I got up to her when it seemed she wouldn't settled down. I used a torch and just pointed the torch to her bed and let her settle down to go back to sleep (without interacting with her apart from to say 'good girl'). I got up 3 times that first night.

    The second night she was tired and in her bed when we went to bed and she didn't cry once during the night.

    Last night (the third night) she was active when we went to bed and she got upset once the lights went off. I just got the torch settled her down to sleep and again no noise from her during the night.

    Of course it might not work for every puppy but we were imagining many sleepness nights trying to settle her in and were a little worried the first night that we might have done the wrong thing. But this is method I would use again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    Ok so, I did as you suggested and got up in the middle of the night. She woke me at 2:30 & at 5ish. At 2:30, she went out for a pee (half asleep herself), and when straight back into the crate & into her bed. Good girl!!
    At 5ish, she needed a poo, and I guess maybe I didn't wake up quickly enough, so she was "awake". She went back into her crate alright, but took about 15/20mins to stop barking. All-in-all though, I'm delighted with that as a fourth night home.
    How much/little should we be using the crate during the day?

    Thanks everyone for your help.

    Anyways, I attached some photos as requested.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=147277&d=1297262761

    attachment.php?attachmentid=147278&d=1297263093


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 77 ✭✭Bog Bunny


    Cute puppy!
    I think if you are around during the day and can actively direct / shape her behaviour you would not need to crate her all the time. I used to wait until my pup was tired and plonked down, then I'd just carry her into the crate, but leave the door open. After a few days she'd retreat to her crate voluntarily when she was tired and it has become her safe haven ever since. I never used crate-time as punishment, it was always a pleasurable experience for her. Did the same with my kids when they were toddlers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    Awh wow, shes a beauty:)

    With the crate, the only time i would use it during the day is when you arent there to supervise her as it will help with the toilet training.
    Say if you have stuff to do in your house or garden, or if you have to go to the shops then i would put her in.
    Other than that no need to have her in it too much during the day.
    Keep up the good work, sounds like shes doing great.


  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭Quick


    Great thread Zulu. I am getting a puppy in May so will be paying closed attention to your experiences!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    This is great, she's just pottered into her crate now for a nap. no accidents today or yesterday, I'm so proud of her!

    Well I'll be here in May quick & happy to answer any questions In the meantime I'll keep posting here for advice :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    Quick question folks: in terms of exercise...

    I understand that the rule of thumb is "5mins per month", but 10mins outside doesnt seem enough for her. Granted, I did 20mins yesterday, and she just lay down (as if to say, enough is enough buddy!).

    So say I stick to the 10mins - how often does she get the 10mins? At the moment we're doing 10mins after breakfast in the morning, 10mins after lunch, & 10mins before bed.

    I take it that doesn't count as 30mins? (I don't want to screw up the poor girls hips)

    Any ideas? Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    Zulu wrote: »
    Quick question folks: in terms of exercise...

    I understand that the rule of thumb is "5mins per month", but 10mins outside doesnt seem enough for her. Granted, I did 20mins yesterday, and she just lay down (as if to say, enough is enough buddy!).

    So say I stick to the 10mins - how often does she get the 10mins? At the moment we're doing 10mins after breakfast in the morning, 10mins after lunch, & 10mins before bed.

    I take it that doesn't count as 30mins? (I don't want to screw up the poor girls hips)

    Any ideas? Thanks.

    As a rule, it really is only 5 mins per month per day. So that means only ten mins in total per day, forced exercise, as in going for a proper walk.

    Playtime in the garden is different. Its actual forced exercise is where you have to restrict.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    Ok, so, we've been taking her for these "walks" after eating to encourage poos, but there not really walks, in that theres a sock, tennis ball, and her favourate toy (a plastic bottle) involved. It's mess/play move on 10 metres, more messing... I take it that counts as play more so than forced exercise?

    BTW, thanks a million for all the responses Andreac!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    Just a note, if shes only 8 weeks she shouldnt be going outside for walks as shes not over her vaccinations yet, so she should only be going into your back garden.
    Please make sure shes not brought outside until all her vacc's are completed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    Yea, that's what the vets said alright. We're not taking her out onto the street or into public (unless she's in our arms going to/from the car). And she's not exposed to other dogs or their "waste".


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 77 ✭✭Bog Bunny


    Zulu wrote: »
    Ok, so, we've been taking her for these "walks" after eating to encourage poos, but there not really walks, in that theres a sock, tennis ball, and her favourate toy (a plastic bottle) involved. It's mess/play move on 10 metres, more messing... I take it that counts as play more so than forced exercise?

    BTW, thanks a million for all the responses Andreac!

    Basically an eight weeks old pup will show you clearly when it is tired and it is best to work with her own schedule of sleep, nap, play a little, sleep, sleep, sleep more, play a little, nap, sleep.... and so on :-)
    I was always happy when any of my pups would be sleeping, that gave me time to do my own things. If the pup has no other dog to play with, it will just play as much as it wants and then sleep again. I would just play along :-) If you took a stop watch and kept track of her waking moments, you'll be surprised that she actually sleeps at least twenty of the twentyfour hours in a day!


  • Registered Users Posts: 196 ✭✭Meteoric


    andreac wrote: »

    With the shampoo, some dogs can be very sensitive to i wouldnt advise any human shampoo, even baby shampoo. I would get a good puppy shampoo from the pet shop.

    Also, theres no need to wash your pup too often. Once a month would be more than enough.
    Please don't wash a Labrador once a month using soap/shampoo. Not too bad with a puppy, but once her adult coat starts coming in it's a water resistant double coat, using soap on it regularly will destroy it. It's meant to have natural oils, if you see a lab bouncing in and out of water the water just sheets off, does not really get through to the skin at all. Wash with just water and keep her clean by always having very clean bedding and combing her regularly.
    My guy has a very thick double coat and when you wash him with shampoo and break down the natural oils it takes about three days for him to get properly dry, not advisable in cold rainy weather at all. Previous 2 Labs were the same. Puppy coats are different, is only the undercoat so dries well enough but using shampoo too often is still not good.
    I remember being at a show once with my last dog and someone cuddled him and said "That's a great shine you have on your dog and he's so clean, which shampoo do you use?" my reply was "Oh he's not had his first bath this year". This was in May (my schedule slipped that year). Cue very confused looking person.
    I try for two shampooed baths per year, early spring and late summer. I now use Johnsons Baby shampoo with camomile with half a bottle (for a full grown male lab) diluted down with water up to the top of a 2 Litre jug with a drop or two of Tea tree oil in the jug too. Seems to work well for him. I've used Dog shampoo on the dogs I've had before and the above seems better, I might just have got unlucky in the dog shampoos. I treat the bath like a full body massage for him, really getting down to the skin. He seems to enjoy the massage part of it (not too keen on his skin getting wet as it does not happen too often).
    Other than these baths if he gets muddy etc I just sluice him down with pure water the dirt is usually just on the outer hair anyway. If he gets into something really smelly I just tend to treat the spot in question not wash the whole dog.
    Sorry for the long post, just my experience with living with various Labs for almost 30 years now.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 77 ✭✭Bog Bunny


    Yep, very good advice. Many owners are not aware that their dogs' coats are self-cleaning, unlike theirs :-)
    When my dogs roll in something offensive (badgers' or fox's poop are the jackpot) I only hose the area down, never use shampoo. Hosing down does not open' the coat or destroys the oil, the clear water transports it much better. When you use shampoo you are only rubbing it in deeper and distribute it all over the body.

    Neutered dogs often lose this self-cleaning, low maintenance coat, even labs do, so then you might have to shampoo them more often.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    Meteoric wrote: »
    Please don't wash a Labrador once a month using soap/shampoo. Not too bad with a puppy, but once her adult coat starts coming in it's a water resistant double coat, using soap on it regularly will destroy it. It's meant to have natural oils, if you see a lab bouncing in and out of water the water just sheets off, does not really get through to the skin at all. Wash with just water and keep her clean by always having very clean bedding and combing her regularly.
    My guy has a very thick double coat and when you wash him with shampoo and break down the natural oils it takes about three days for him to get properly dry, not advisable in cold rainy weather at all. Previous 2 Labs were the same. Puppy coats are different, is only the undercoat so dries well enough but using shampoo too often is still not good.
    I remember being at a show once with my last dog and someone cuddled him and said "That's a great shine you have on your dog and he's so clean, which shampoo do you use?" my reply was "Oh he's not had his first bath this year". This was in May (my schedule slipped that year). Cue very confused looking person.
    I try for two shampooed baths per year, early spring and late summer. I now use Johnsons Baby shampoo with camomile with half a bottle (for a full grown male lab) diluted down with water up to the top of a 2 Litre jug with a drop or two of Tea tree oil in the jug too. Seems to work well for him. I've used Dog shampoo on the dogs I've had before and the above seems better, I might just have got unlucky in the dog shampoos. I treat the bath like a full body massage for him, really getting down to the skin. He seems to enjoy the massage part of it (not too keen on his skin getting wet as it does not happen too often).
    Other than these baths if he gets muddy etc I just sluice him down with pure water the dirt is usually just on the outer hair anyway. If he gets into something really smelly I just tend to treat the spot in question not wash the whole dog.
    Sorry for the long post, just my experience with living with various Labs for almost 30 years now.

    Theres asbol nothing wrong with washing your dog once a month, if it needs it, once you use the correct shampoo for dogs. I only said it as a guide, obviously there is no need to regularly wash a dog unless you show it or its extremely dirty.
    I would never use human soap or shampoo, only special shampoo suitable for a dogs coat.
    People are allowed to give their advice and opinion if they like, but just be careful what you post, as your info on the docking/cropping thread was completely wrong, none of what you said was true.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 24 thecapedcanine


    She looks adorable.
    We had two labradors, sadly we lost one and weve only got one left. We got them when they were 8 weeks old and did the whole crate training thing. Labs are so intelligent, they take no time at all to decide that the crate is their bed, or den and they grow to love it. Our two only woke up during the night at the very beginning, and that was only because their little bladders couldnt hold the wee for hours on end. One of us would just get up, open the back door and let them out for their pee, say good boy & good girl, give a pat on the head and back to bed.
    Neither dog ever messed in the house after the learned that outside = wee wee and poo. The only time we ever had anything to clean up was when either dog was sick.
    The crate was the best thing we ever got, and we eventually could just phase it out as they didnt need it any longer. Unfortunately our chocolate lab passed away last year from a digestive issue, however his sister, the yellow is the best behaved dog in the world. Shes curled up in a ball on a bean bag in the sitting room at the moment, I can hear her snoring from here.
    Stick with the crate training for toilet training, dogs wont mess their bed unless they are sick and jusy cant control it. SHe will learn very quickly what to do.
    With regards to bathing - our lab gets a bath once a year in the summer time, with baby shampoo in the back garden. We use a paddling pool full of warm water. She loves her baths and the baby shampoo makes her lovely and soft and she smells gorgeous. Labs arent really smelly dogs anyway, so if your pup rolls in something smelly just hose her down. Be careful of using really really cold water though, our girl got 'cold water tail' once from cold water in the sea - her tail just kind of went numb for a couple of days and she couldnt wag it. It gets better itself so its nothing to wory about if it does happen.
    Sorry for long post, I could talk about our girl all day - shes my best bud and I just adore her


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    Ok so I've been researching a bit, and there seems to be a common theme in relation to "being the pack leader" - namely ignoring the dog for 5 mins upon returning to the room, not giving attention when they're nudging etc.. I'm eager to establish myself as her pack leader, and hopefully raise a stable, happy dog. I also want her to have an enjoyable puppyhood - she'll be old enough long enough so...

    How do I balance letting her enjoy her life, while asserting the ground rules that will lead her to a happy life?

    In particular - while she's toilet training, we have her confined to a limited space with access to outside. When she's in her area, she goes bonkers to get out to us (which is fair enough, we're her pack). I ignore this behavour until she calms down. When she's calmed, I go over to her and have a play with her. I might stay with her until she starts napping, then I quietly move her into her bed (with the door open).
    This is all well and good, but when she wakes up (food time) she'll go mental again!

    We'll ignore her again, but she won't go without a fight & it's 20/30 mins of barking and charging the baby gates, and chewing the gates etc..

    Should we have her area outside of our living room, so we're not a constant reminder? But if we do that, then she's totally separated from the pack & that doesn't seem right/fair - plus - whens she's toilet trained & not going bezerk, she'll be welcome to share that very space.

    Am I doing something wrong? or is this just going to be a longer battle of wits?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,964 ✭✭✭Cherry Blossom


    Zulu wrote: »
    Ok so I've been researching a bit, and there seems to be a common theme in relation to "being the pack leader" - namely ignoring the dog for 5 mins upon returning to the room, not giving attention when they're nudging etc.. I'm eager to establish myself as her pack leader, and hopefully raise a stable, happy dog. I also want her to have an enjoyable puppyhood - she'll be old enough long enough so...

    Very Ceaser-esque, there are other trainers also though, read as many as you can and develop your own methods to suit yourself and your pup. There is no 'puppy bible' and you seem to have enough sence to be able to trust your own instincts sometimes! Find something that works for you and your situation, then be consistant with it. Nothing is going to work straight away and there are no instant fixes so don't expect instant results.

    How do I balance letting her enjoy her life, while asserting the ground rules that will lead her to a happy life?

    Just decide what basic boundries you are going to have, is she going to allowed on furniture, is she going to be allowed to jump up on people. Start getting her into a routine that suits you.

    In particular - while she's toilet training, we have her confined to a limited space with access to outside. When she's in her area, she goes bonkers to get out to us (which is fair enough, we're her pack). I ignore this behavour until she calms down. When she's calmed, I go over to her and have a play with her. I might stay with her until she starts napping, then I quietly move her into her bed (with the door open).
    This is all well and good, but when she wakes up (food time) she'll go mental again!

    We'll ignore her again, but she won't go without a fight & it's 20/30 mins of barking and charging the baby gates, and chewing the gates etc..

    Has she actually had any accidents in the house that were her fault? I'd start teaching her that her actions will lead to something specific e.g. every single time I bark I get taken outside . . . eventually . . . I don't have to pee and I don't want to go out so maybe I'll just shut up. There is no problem having her in the room with you as long as you can recognise the signs that she needs to go and are alert enough that you will see them, (teaching barking as a sign means you notice even when you are engrossed in the tv or something). This also deals with the two huge issues of noise and toilet training in the one go

    Should we have her area outside of our living room, so we're not a constant reminder? But if we do that, then she's totally separated from the pack & that doesn't seem right/fair - plus - whens she's toilet trained & not going bezerk, she'll be welcome to share that very space.

    Am I doing something wrong? or is this just going to be a longer battle of wits?

    You will probably notice very little difference from one day to the next but if you keep a little diary with just a few one liners every day, you will notice a difference from one week to the next.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,964 ✭✭✭Cherry Blossom


    Oh and she's barking when she wakes up because 8 week old puppies have to pee as soon as they wake up, because you aren't taking her straight outside she's being forced to hold it and it's uncomfortable, listen to her, she's trying to tell you. It does take a little while to figure out their routines and behaviour and get used learning their language but you will figure it out quicker than you think.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,965 ✭✭✭✭Zulu


    Yea, i'm not convinced it's a "pee" bark. In fact, I'm pretty sure it's not. I open the door as soon as she wakes and sometimes she has a very little one, but it's not that barking I'm talking about - more the "I want to play" " come over here" "let me out" barking.

    In terms of peeing: she's not barking for a pee today (or yesterday) so we had 2 accidents by the door. I'm not picking up on her "i need a pee" signs. Any "common" pee signals? She's not peeing after taking water - not for a good 10/15mins anyway.

    In terms of poos - she goes straight out to the poo box.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,000 ✭✭✭andreac


    To be honest, i wouldnt be waiting for her to tell you she needs to pee at this age and stage. You need to bring her out more regularly and encourage her to go and reward her and not wait til shes bursting then has to go inside.

    Accidents only happen when we dont bring the dog out in time, so i wouldnt wait for a signal at the moment. If the accidents are at the door well then shes obviously going to the door to be let out and you arent seeing her quick enough as she is trying to tell you she needs to go.

    Regular trips outside and after all the usual times, a sleep, drink, play session. You say she doesnt pee until 15 mins after a drink say, well i would bring her outside the minute she has a drink and use a code word and wait until she goes and praise, praise and more praise.

    She will soon get the message that outside is where she should go and later on, when she eventually tell you she needs to go out, by sitting at the door, whimpering, pawing at the door and so on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,964 ✭✭✭Cherry Blossom


    Zulu wrote: »
    I'm not picking up on her "i need a pee" signs. Any "common" pee signals? She's not peeing after taking water - not for a good 10/15mins anyway.

    10 - 15 minutes after drinking is when they have to pee. As soon as they wake up, after a play session, you take her out and wait till she goes it might take 2 seconds or it might take 2 hours, you don't leave her out, you stay with her. I assumed you were already aware of the 'key pee times' perhaps wrongly so.
    Zulu wrote: »
    had 2 accidents by the door.

    Going to the door is a signal that she wants out, if not barking then you are going to have to teach her some other cue to make doors open as she can't open it herself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,964 ✭✭✭Cherry Blossom


    I posted a load of links for helpful threads on house training on this one, rather than posting them all again, they're all listed in this one.

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056118848


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