Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Thermal stability problem

Options
  • 17-09-2014 2:37pm
    #1
    snoop09
    Registered Users Posts: 49 ✭


    Hi,

    I built a 2,500 sq ft house 2 years ago, I have 125mm pumped cavity wall insulation, 37.5mm insulated plasterboard on all external walls, 2 rows of 200mm attic insulation, double glazed future proof windows, air tightness tape around all window, door opes etc...

    I have a solid fuel stove and oil burner,

    Now here is my question, can anybody answer, if not can you recommend what thread I go to,

    My house is like a sauna in the summer, reaches up to 28 deg internally and in winter it is like an ice box, hit lows of 16 degs last winter!

    As winter is fast approaching, can anyone shed any light on my problem as how I can fix it?

    Thanks,

    Snoop


Comments

  • Options
    #2
    cpoh1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,604 ✭✭✭cpoh1


    snoop09 wrote: »

    My house is like a sauna in the summer, reaches up to 28 deg internally and in winter it is like an ice box, hit lows of 16 degs last winter!

    16 degrees aint bad Snoop, my house was a C3 when we bought it and 2k sqft and reached 14 degrees during the day with the heating off. Your insulation will really pay for itself with heat retention once you give it a blast everty day and keep her topped up after.


  • Options
    #3
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,087 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    snoop09 wrote: »
    Hi,

    I built a 2,500 sq ft house 2 years ago, I have 125mm pumped cavity wall insulation, 37.5mm insulated plasterboard on all external walls, 2 rows of 200mm attic insulation, double glazed future proof windows, air tightness tape around all window, door opes etc...

    I have a solid fuel stove and oil burner,

    Now here is my question, can anybody answer, if not can you recommend what thread I go to,

    My house is like a sauna in the summer, reaches up to 28 deg internally and in winter it is like an ice box, hit lows of 16 degs last winter!

    As winter is fast approaching, can anyone shed any light on my problem as how I can fix it?

    Thanks,

    Snoop

    Your insulated plasterboard could be preventing your insulated blocks from heating up, thus meaning your heat is lost easily through doors/vents etc as its only the air that is heated, not the thermal mass of the house.

    Does your house get cold even if no one is entering/leaving frequently?


  • Options
    #4
    MicktheMan
    Registered Users Posts: 2,825 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    snoop09 wrote: »
    I built a 2,500 sq ft house 2 years ago,

    What kind of house is it (bungalow, 2 storey, dormer etc)?

    And can you describe exactly the wall makeup from outside to inside?


  • Options
    #5
    snoop09
    Registered Users Posts: 49 ✭snoop09


    Mick,

    It is a bungalow

    Wall make up as follows,

    Napp plaster,
    block
    125mm pumped cavity
    block
    internal scratch coat
    37.5mm insulated board
    skim

    Air tightness tape at external wall/floor screed junction
    Airtightness tape at wall/ceiling joists junction

    What do you think?

    Snoop


  • Options
    #6
    GreeBo
    Registered Users Posts: 27,087 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Concrete floors, insulated?


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #7
    snoop09
    Registered Users Posts: 49 ✭snoop09


    Yes, 100mm of kingspans finest, 25mm up stands on external walls

    I can't understand it, maybe I just expect too much


  • Options
    #8
    Outkast_IRE
    Registered Users Posts: 7,515 ✭✭✭Outkast_IRE


    House being like a sauna in the summer ?

    To me this could be a combination of the glazing orientation and the fact that you have internally insulated meaning you essentially have very little thermal mass to absorb that heat so the air temperature rises fairly noticeably very quickly. Do the rooms that heat up quickly have large mainly south or west facing windows, these are the main culprits for solar gain / summer overheating issues. The best way to tackle this is external shading if possible designed to shade the windows from the sun during the summer but allowing the lower winter sun to reach the windows.

    As for house being cool in the winter ?

    There is alot at play here are you living on a very exposed site ? Houses in estates tend to shelter each other from the worst of the wind etc and its beneficial. Was there any air tightness test carried out to look for draughts etc ?


  • Options
    #9
    MicktheMan
    Registered Users Posts: 2,825 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    snoop09 wrote: »
    Mick,

    It is a bungalow

    Wall make up as follows,

    Napp plaster,
    block
    125mm pumped cavity
    block
    internal scratch coat
    37.5mm insulated board
    skim

    Air tightness tape at external wall/floor screed junction
    Airtightness tape at wall/ceiling joists junction

    What do you think?

    Snoop
    The air tight detail you give is sound - Do you know what the air tight test result was?
    How much heating fuel do you use in a year?
    Does the house cool down quickly after the heating is turned off?
    Can you explain a bit about it reaching a low of 16 degrees, how long was it after the heating was turned off etc.


  • Options
    #10
    Victor
    Registered Users Posts: 78,281 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    Posts split from other thread and moved from Accommodation & Property

    Moderator


Advertisement