Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi all,
Vanilla are planning an update to the site on April 24th (next Wednesday). It is a major PHP8 update which is expected to boost performance across the site. The site will be down from 7pm and it is expected to take about an hour to complete. We appreciate your patience during the update.
Thanks all.

Pocket Door query

Options
  • 21-04-2015 11:01am
    #1
    thumper10
    Registered Users Posts: 141 ✭✭


    Hey all,

    Looking for recommendations on Pocket doors, our builder told us it could cost about 600euro, at the ideal home show we found out you can purchase the pocket door kit and the door then separately, just got a price of 320 ex vat for singe door, we're looking for about 6 of them (if the price comes down), we're building in Galway would appreciate your advise, experience

    TIA :)


Comments

  • Options
    #2
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Can you put up the detailed drawing your architect prepared for the pocket doors (taking off the arch's name etc)

    The reason I ask for the drawing is the last pocket door I was involved with, the builder was back more than once fixing plasterboard/painting/ lining-up surrounding features/ fixing floor/ceiling tracks etc

    Saving pennies might cost you pounds, or leave you with troublesome doors in the long run..


  • Options
    #3
    DOCARCH
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 17,701 Mod ✭✭✭✭DOCARCH


    The last one I put in, at clients insistence, client had the builder back 3 months after completion to take out the pocket door and put in a standard door and frame...at a cost!

    Despite what people think, they do not save space as if you don't have the room to swing a door into a room...not much point in having the room in the first place! :)


  • Options
    #4
    galwaytt
    Registered Users Posts: 12,761 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    ..we did a house in Fermanagh a few years ago for a client - ALL the doors were pocket doors, on both floors. Kinda mad, Ted.

    I've seen some in the UK and essentially you were buying a portion of wall c/w the tracks in them already. I think a 'complete' solution is the best, as otherwise buying components alone and getting someone to make the best of them may not work out.

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Options
    #5
    PROJECT K
    Registered Users Posts: 192 ✭✭PROJECT K


    DOCARCH wrote: »
    ...
    Despite what people think, they do not save space as if you don't have the room to swing a door into a room...not much point in having the room in the first place! :)

    I agree that they dont save space and that rooms should be designed with enough tolerance to allow a swinging door(!) but I do believe that sliding doors are very beneficial in open plan areas where a swinging door just gets in the way of free circulation/room layout. I will have two large sliding pocket doors but i know that these will remain open 90% of the time - why have a door leaf sticking out like a sore thumb?!

    I had to go with a built up system due to opening size and i am sourcing the commercial rail/support system myself and getting the door made by a local joiner/cabinetry maker who will also fit the entire system - he has done something very similar before and has worked very well with no problems...so far!


  • Options
    #6
    rambunctious1
    Registered Users Posts: 58 ✭✭rambunctious1


    Check out Eclisse for a complete pocket door system, minus the door. Very useful, especially if you have any fire door requirements and they come in single and double systems. The also come with the jambs and brushes to tidy up around the opening. The doors and track etc... can also be removed for maintenance after installation, so you don't have to butcher your walls.
    A cheaper option would be to get the track and hangers from pchenderson and have the pockets built. They have lots of complicated systems but basically the Husky kits do the job for straight internal sliding doors. One required for each door leaf, e.g. two required for a double. The Husky 50 does a 50kg door and the Husky 100 does a 100 kg door.
    Much cheaper options should be avoided as the rollers aren't great and the doors rattle and shake upon sliding. It's not something you want to go trying to fix again in a few years time.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #7
    thumper10
    Registered Users Posts: 141 ✭✭thumper10


    Thanks all for the replies, I've attached 2 screen shots, hope you can them clearly..
    looking at it its only 4 we need...got pricing from around €300 ex vat and then one at about €100, excluding door...


  • Options
    #8
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Are you building under the Irish building regs?, is there steps up to the toilet facilities?


  • Options
    #9
    thumper10
    Registered Users Posts: 141 ✭✭thumper10


    there's a downstairs toilet from the backdoor, and yes under the new Irish reg's.


  • Options
    #10
    DOCARCH
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 17,701 Mod ✭✭✭✭DOCARCH


    Not sure I'd be too worried about the pocket doors...I'd be more worried how your staircase is working in relation to floor levels at first floor and ceiling levels at ground floor?


  • Options
    #11
    thumper10
    Registered Users Posts: 141 ✭✭thumper10


    DOCARCH wrote: »
    Not sure I'd be too worried about the pocket doors...I'd be more worried how your staircase is working in relation to floor levels at first floor and ceiling levels at ground floor?



    thanks but engineer has signed all of :)


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #12
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 40,993 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    thumper10 wrote: »
    thanks but engineer has signed all of :)

    well those stairs as shown dont work in a typical 2 storey dwelling... so i hope theyve looked at redesigning them


  • Options
    #13
    beauf
    Closed Accounts Posts: 22,651 ✭✭✭✭beauf


    DOCARCH wrote: »
    ...Despite what people think, they do not save space as if you don't have the room to swing a door into a room...not much point in having the room in the first place! :)

    Isn't more about the door just getting in the way.


  • Options
    #14
    hexosan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,735 ✭✭✭hexosan


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    well those stairs as shown dont work in a typical 2 storey dwelling... so i hope theyve looked at redesigning them

    Why don't they ?


  • Options
    #15
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 40,993 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    hexosan wrote: »
    Why don't they ?

    Lots of reasons

    (assuming the bottom of the drawings is the front)

    the floor to floor dimension is 2.7 m

    there is 24 steps shown on the ground floor plan, 8 up and 8 returned and 8 back again, meaning theres a 2 half landings located between the 2 floors.
    one at 0.9 m high and the other at 1.8 m high
    2 half landings mean that the WC door and hallway to it is compromised.
    quite possibly the door to bedroom 1 is also compromised.

    you also couldnt possibly walk up steps 1 - 6 without crouching down to get under steps 17 - 24

    so lest assume steps 7 - 24 are either a mistake or the start of another stairs to a second floor. How do you get into bedroom 4?
    if its just a 16 step floor to floor stair, you cannot walk back over the first 8 steps, the most you can cover is 3-4 steps.


    its all wrong and needs to be looked at again.


  • Options
    #16
    DOCARCH
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 17,701 Mod ✭✭✭✭DOCARCH


    thumper10 wrote: »
    thanks but engineer has signed all of :)

    Your engineer 'signed off'! Who designed it?

    It does not work (for the reasons Syd has said above). You will have to bend down to get into your WC and there will be no access to the landing to the rear...the only accessible Bedroom upstairs will be Bedroom 4.

    Get whoever designed it to do a section through the staircase looking towards the WC/Bedroom 4 side.


  • Options
    #17
    thumper10
    Registered Users Posts: 141 ✭✭thumper10


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    Lots of reasons

    (assuming the bottom of the drawings is the front)

    the floor to floor dimension is 2.7 m

    there is 24 steps shown on the ground floor plan, 8 up and 8 returned and 8 back again, meaning theres a 2 half landings located between the 2 floors.
    one at 0.9 m high and the other at 1.8 m high
    2 half landings mean that the WC door and hallway to it is compromised.
    quite possibly the door to bedroom 1 is also compromised.

    you also couldnt possibly walk up steps 1 - 6 without crouching down to get under steps 17 - 24

    so lest assume steps 7 - 24 are either a mistake or the start of another stairs to a second floor. How do you get into bedroom 4?
    if its just a 16 step floor to floor stair, you cannot walk back over the first 8 steps, the most you can cover is 3-4 steps.


    its all wrong and needs to be looked at again.

    Ok hold on, :) its a split level house, so when you come in the door, there are 8 steps down to ground floor, which would be the 2 storey house. Back at the front door, there are 8 steps, which is the dormer side of the house..again upstairs you have 8 steps up, architect and engineer have approved all, thanks


  • Options
    #18
    DOCARCH
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 17,701 Mod ✭✭✭✭DOCARCH


    thumper10 wrote: »
    Ok hold on, :) its a split level house...

    OooooKkkkkk....2+2 = 5 it would appear! :o

    Let's just get back on topic and leave that to one side! :P


  • Options
    #19
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 40,993 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    thumper10 wrote: »
    Ok hold on, :) its a split level house, so when you come in the door, there are 8 steps down to ground floor, which would be the 2 storey house. Back at the front door, there are 8 steps, which is the dormer side of the house..again upstairs you have 8 steps up, architect and engineer have approved all, thanks

    thats grand, i did say in my very first post "assuming its a standard 2 storey house" ;)


  • Options
    #20
    JimmyMW
    Registered Users Posts: 695 ✭✭✭JimmyMW


    thumper10 wrote: »
    Ok hold on, :) its a split level house, so when you come in the door, there are 8 steps down to ground floor, which would be the 2 storey house. Back at the front door, there are 8 steps, which is the dormer side of the house..again upstairs you have 8 steps up, architect and engineer have approved all, thanks

    Just before you leave that there, I believe that you have a look at the the levels again. Assuming the following ground floor level is @+8m od and front door mezzanine level is @ +10m od, then first floor level is @ +11.400m od and top mezzanine level is @ 12.700m od, the figures are a bit fuzzy but I think I have them as per drawing there.

    On the floor levels you have a floor to floor height of 3.4m which is more than adequate however on the mezzanine levels you only have a floor to floor of 2.7m, I think this will cause you a problem as you only have 300mm to get your concrete floor construction and false ceiling into, in order to achieve your min floor to ceiling measurement of 2.4m.

    Maybe I am getting it wrong but it may warrant another look


Advertisement