stove not heating room

I got the rep from Boru to call out...long story short his stance was that there was nothing wrong with the stove..yet on the day I had the fire lighting for hours and there was no heat from it(he was here for a few hours and dismantled the stove completely)...I had to sign a docket to say he had called and I wrote on it that I was unhappy with heat output but heard nothing again from them .
The guy I bought it from made up a restrictor(for want of a better word) which was put at the top of the stove.This definitely made a difference (any heat was going to be an improvement tbh). Yet i cant say that the room ever gets really hot.
Very disappointed overall and sorry that I bought the insert stove (which i choose because it looked well) and very unhappy that Boru didnt follow up on the problem .
I would recommend the Hard Ash wood blocks as nothing else seems to throw out heat.

Hi and sorry for posting on an old thread, I thought this might be useful to someone.
I am not a stove installer but have experience with heating systems.
I installed a insert stove in my own home and the heat from it was very poor and like the previous posters the whistling noise from around the stove was annoying , after 4 hrs of the stove running i was contemplating putting back in the open fire.

The installation was completely wrong,( my fault) there is no simple installation of a insert stove regardless what the manufacturers say , The stove must be correctly attached to the chimney . to connect to your existing chimney( if it is in good condition) you will need a clay pot adapter, which is basically a reducer from the 8" chimney to either a 5 or 6 inch flue to match your stove. and then that pipe has to be connected air tight to your stove outlet.

To fit a clay pot adapter you will need to break out the fireback as it wont fit up inside the existing opening , this is not very difficult just very messy.

To check if your insert stove is correctly fitted to the chimney a simple check is take the baffle plate out and put your hand up inside the flue outlet, your hand should be inside the flue pipe connected to your stove , If you have a large hole up there the stove is incorrectly fitted and you will not get any heat from it.

I re installed my stove correctly the second time and the heat is amazing ( yes we have to open doors as the room gets too hot)

Hi Virgo,
Yours sounds exactly like how mine was working when installed incorrectly, If the stove isn't coupled to the chimney correctly, When the flue gasses heat up they cause the "draft" or negative pressure at the stove that suck the air in, In my situation the air in the room was being sucked under the stove and out the chimney also due to the negative pressure. So the room was actually colder.

Today my wife had the stove going from 11am till 11pm , the room was 23 degrees for most of the day we used half a small bucket of coal 2 logs and 4 briquettes. Room size is 21 x 15 and 3 external walls and i have a 4.5kw insert stove.
I was over firing it at first and putting too much fuel into it , the same amount i would use in the open fire, The room was up to 26 degrees.

Did the supplier recommend the Installer ?, In my opinion ( and happy to be proved wrong , I am no expert in stoves) If its not heating the room its installed incorrectly. Hopefully one of the resident stove experts will see this thread and respond with whatever recourse you may have .

I lit the stove this evening at 7pm, I also purchased a room thermometer today. The sitting room was 15degrees at 7pm and is now 18 degrees, is this all I can expect? I've used three ash logs and a half bucket of stove coal. I can't see an easy way to check the baffle plate as everything seems firmly fixed in. I'm going to ring the installer again tomorrow, can anyone tell me where I stand if extra work needs to be done. He did all surveys, cleaning of the chimney etc.

The model number is FW51 1055 Firwarm Range Insert Stove. He's calling out tomorrow but said on the phone today that he will replace the stove, that he has the same one and its heating perfectly. I'm going to have the stove lighting to show him how bad it is. It's lighting an hour now and I can't touch it yet the room is pretty cool at about 18 degrees. There's no point in him replacing the stove if the same thing is going to happen. I'd be afraid to remove anything incase it fecked up the warranty. I obviously haven't a breeze what I should be asking, I did mention the clay pot adaptor and he said it wasn't that...now I don't know if he mean't there wasn't one fitted or it wasn't causing the problem. I don't know what else I should be asking without coming across as a "know it all". Any advice?

virgo69 wrote: »

Okay so he's replacing the stove, he admitted that the room should be far warmer than it is and he said the stove must be faulty. I asked him about a flu and he said it wasn't needed.

By chance the gas boiler was giving trouble today, Bord Gais were out and I asked the engineer about the stove, he took the baffle plate off and he said there is just a big void between the stove and the chimney, that normally flues aren't needed for stoves under 7kw but was needed for this one. So do I let the stove installer remove the stove and put a new one in and wait and see or do I ask again about a flu? Any comments greatly appreciated.

Is the fire back still in place or was it removed.
That stove doesn't require a flue as it just sits in against fireback.
If there is a large void at the rear of the stove this is incorrect.
He's the info on stove.
Is your stove fitted as per drawing
http://www.firewarm.ie/insert_stove

virgo69 wrote: »

The fire back is still in place as far as I know.
The void is above the stove (see the third picture, it is above were the slant is).
I don't know if there is void at the rear, but I would imagine not as the hearth would probably have been just deep enough to take the stove.
I don't know if the stove was fitted as per the drawing but from my untrained eye, it does appear to be well fitted, well sealed etc.
I find it hard to believe the stove could be faulty, the stove itself gets roasting hot within an hour but just doesn't throw out the heat, yet the chimney breast the next morning would be warm just above the mantle piece.
He recommended a different type of coal called Eco glow, which I got and hasn't made any difference.

Should I let him just replace the stove and hope that the new one works or am I just wasting time and fuel. I don't want to come accross like I am telling the man his job.
Any thoughts?

All you can do is let him replace stove
If problem persists then I would look at a different make.
Personally I'm not a lover of that type of stove due to having to remove stove to clean chimney , not having a properly connected flue.
That doesn't mean they're not good it's just my opinion

virgo69 wrote: »

New stove fitted and slightly warmer but not much. Now hitting 20 degrees with the stove lighting since 1pm and its quite mild out anyway. So fed up with this. I'm going to ring the stove company tomorrow to see what they make of it but I doubt the installer is going to replace this stove too. Do you think a clay pot adaptor will solve my problem?

How did you get on with the manufacturers?
I don't think a clay pot adaptor can be fitted with this type of stove. Out of interest what size room is the stove located? Is a well insulated house?
If it's a stove that just slots into the existing fireplace then €1k seems a lot for supply and fit - I think those stoves are about €450-500 to buy.

virgo69 wrote: »

Hi Cocoman its a ground floor apartment nore like a maisonette (built in the sixties with a fireplace chimney etc.). The room is 14ft by 12ft with a small galley kitchen off it. There is one external wall in the room, which has a window but that wall has been dry lined as have the rest of the external walls in the apartment except the kitchen. I let a message for the manufacturer today but have heard nothing back, I have a feeling they are probably finished until the new year now. To be honest I didn't check around for prices, I'd used this guy before to fit a new fireplace, he did a great job and his follow up was very good.

Thje size and output of your stove should be fine for a room that size.
I wonder if the problem is with the chimney arrangement?
The firewarm stove should not be installed into a chimney that serves any other heating appliance. If there is an apartment above you that has a fire or stove going into the same chinmney maybe that could be the reason for poor heat.

Just to update this, I finally got in touch with the manufacturer the second week in January. I have to say they were fantastic once I got in touch, they offered to come out and inspect the stove at no cost but in the meantime talked me through lighting the stove, what to expect and when and how much to close the vents. Within a week the temperature started going up and now I can get up to 27degrees after two hours and half a bucket of stove coal. I've been using ash logs too but they have to be quite short as the fire box is small, and the ash is hard to chop with an axe. It turns out it was just a matter of tweaking the ventsand reloading small and often, which isn't explained in the manual or by the installer. I probably wouldn't buy that particular stove again as the fire box is a pain but would buy from the manufacturer, the customer service is really good. Thanks for all your help.

AV8IRL wrote: »

Just a point to note.
I had a stove fitted last Thursday and ran the first burn on Sunday. Within an hour the heat coming off the glass was great. Within 2 hours you could feel your face burning when sitting on the sofa across from it (About 13ft away). you also had to open the doors to let the heat out.

With relation to the vents on the top (not the second are control, just the vents) I don't get heat blowing out but I have no problem with the heat from the fire.

Should I be getting heat blowing out???

Its a Tuscan 5kw Stove

The controls on the Tuscan are the primary air; wheel at bottom, and secondary air (air-wash); lever on top right.

Open them both when starting fire, after 45 mins, close the wheel. Leave the other vent open for another half hour. Then close it down til its only open about 15%.

The stove does provide convectional heat through the vents at the top, but it is a natural convection. So, dont be expecting a fan-like blowing of heat.

The Stove is a mightly little yolk though.

Hi there. I've got a problem with yeoman Devon double sided. It's in a room that's 25 by 12 feet. It's set into chimney breast in centre of room. There's not much space above the canopy of the stove. That could be a factor.

There's good draught. Fire will burn well but for the size of room it should be toasty but isn't at all. There is heat when you really get it going but goes through a lot of fuel with poor return. If I open the doors there's plenty of heat. Thanks for any advice as it's frustrating and I've asked a few stove places but not convinced by suggestions. It's a second hand stove by the way.

flanagantom wrote: »

Hi Folks,
Like some others here I had a henley 10kw inset stove installed in a room 18 x 14 ft , has a large patio door to one side , new build double insulated. it seem to work as it should but the heat output in not what I expected, tried everything different fuels, read forums, checked for draw up chimney seems normal. had the installer out who claims its working as it should but i cant seem to get the room up more than 23/4 degrees at a push and have the fire going strong chucking in fuel to get that. with the door closed and on all day. I can warm up the room but cant get it cooking hot like I thought I would . I have to keep the door closed too to get it warm and it takes a few hours to get it even there. I had an expert out who inspected the stove and it seem to be fine mechanically. I'm at my wits end here and about to either return it or pull it out and check the installation myself. If anyone has any suggestions on what to check or do any help would be appreciated. it a 10kw already overrated for the room ...surely I should be able to get the room cooking. I could easily with an open fire after a few hours. Its has a full flu kit, insulation, vermilicute , etc... any help appreciated

Hi there. There are many variables but I've had success just adjusting the air controls. I'm still tweaking but that seems to be the trick. I had been leaving vents open thinking that with max air the fire would burn hottest. However I've since discovered that you need to turn down the air once the fire's going well too avoid sending all heat up the chimney. As per other posters, it's hard to discern that this could be a problem from literature etc. To me it seemed too simple that just adjusting the air by half would make that much difference but it does. You might be surprised by how much heat you will get if you play with the controls a bit. Seems counter intuitive I know. The other factor for me was fuel. Try kiln dried or heat logs for low moisture. That will give best results. I was as frustrated as you are so I'm sure it's a common theme. Hope this helps.