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stove not heating room

  • 16-11-2013 12:37am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 222 ✭✭


    We have recently installed a boru fiachra 7kw insert stove in our home and have concerns re the lack of heat output in our sitting room. We are burning coal and wood and have heard/read reports of other people who have to open livingroom doors because of excessive heat. We close ours to try and benefit from heat.
    While lit the stove makes a whistling/windy noise. Is this normal.? We are burning black diamond polish coal and seasoned ash. It is not connected to a back boiler.
    The actual heat in the room is minimal and very disappointing. Are we doing anything wrong or is it a chimney related issue?


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 120 ✭✭wobbie10


    Don't have the same make of stove as you but have an inset 7kw stove fitted in the living room, Inis inset stove.

    Something is not working in your set up as you should have plenty of heat coming out of that stove.

    When we have the stove going well it seriously bangs out the heat, no way you could keep the doors of living room closed.
    If we burn just stove coal "ecobrite" it gets crazy hot, I use wood most of the time as coal too hot at the current temps.

    Did you install this stove yourself ?
    Sounds like it is not installed properly to me as you should have plenty of heat.

    Best of luck


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 222 ✭✭rpmcmurphy


    Thanks for the reply Wobbie. No we didn't install it ourselves. I guess we will have to contact the installer again. I suspect that all the heat is going up the chimney and not into the room. Perhaps there is too much of a draw on the chimney and that is causing the whistling noise when the stove is operating/burning.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 66 ✭✭SK76


    Should be loads of heat. Is it burning the fuel fast? I usually let vent open fully at start to get it going, then turn off air and it settles down. It must be a n installation fault


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 222 ✭✭rpmcmurphy


    Not crazy fast but not slow either. As i am unfamiliar with and relatively new to stoves i have no yardstick to measure burning speed to. I usually open vents at start also. Infact once lit i have tried every combination of top vent bottom vent open/half open etc but to no avail


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 113 ✭✭Gest


    rpmcmurphy wrote: »
    We have recently installed a boru fiachra 7kw insert stove in our home and have concerns re the lack of heat output in our sitting room. We are burning coal and wood and have heard/read reports of other people who have to open livingroom doors because of excessive heat. We close ours to try and benefit from heat.
    While lit the stove makes a whistling/windy noise. Is this normal.? We are burning black diamond polish coal and seasoned ash. It is not connected to a back boiler.
    The actual heat in the room is minimal and very disappointing. Are we doing anything wrong or is it a chimney related issue?

    I would say you should definitely call back the installer. I have the fiachra inset too since aug this year. There is some heat off it compared to the open fire. I have to open doors to let it out around the house. I burn mostly turf in it since I got it and its even giving good heat from the turf. Anytime I put in coal it gets too warm but I have good insulation which certainly helps.

    How do you find it compared to your open fire before you got the inset?

    Edit to say that there is no noise from our inset.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2 Elsie15


    I've also had the Fiachra Inset 7kw installed recently and am so disappointed with the heat output. I use a mixture of wood, turf, coal. I seem to spend most of my time refuelling stove and opening/closing/half opening the vents to get some heat. I was told by my installer that I'd have to open my living room door after 30 mins with the heat - I wish! I'm at my wits end. Any additional advice would be really appreciated!


  • Registered Users Posts: 10 story


    I have just had a 5KW insert stove installed and like the original post, I'm disappointed as the heat output is less than the heat generated by just using the original open fire place. I've tried to adjust controls the bottom 2 air controls and the secondary air control on top of the door. Neither combination makes a difference.

    Very annoyed as I had heard these were great I'd need to open the living/dinning room doors. That's not possible. On the plus side it seems to give a steady burn rate, which is what I wanted but with the door closed the heat is nothing like the open fire grate. Its a Green 5KW insert fire stove. The install looked fine as I watched the installer do it, the stove looks air tight on the sides and top. The bottom has a few a few millimetres gap between the stove and the grate which may be the reason as last night I heard a whistling sound. It was windy so will have to monitor that.

    All in first impression, not happy its sealed in with fire cement on sides and top where the edges meet the facia of the fireplace, so I'd imagine it would be a nightmare to remove it and check for install problem. Not sure what to do as it should have been hotter than the open fire not cooler.

    Will check room temp tonight to see how hot the room gets.
    Perhaps the bottom line is I would have needed a 7Kw or more to heat both the living room and dining room. Maybe a free standing version should have been used. However based on the calculation's the KW required was 4.7 KW for both rooms and just under 3KW for the dining room. So I thought the 5kw would have definitely have been sufficient for the dinning room.

    My wife is not pleased and I'm not impressed but don't want to admit it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,528 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    Oh lads, ye have me worried now..... I'm having a stove fitted tomorrow, and was hoping it'd be the solution to all my problems (high ceilings, two rooms knocked into one, single-glazing, north facing).

    It's a free-standing, as opposed to insert, but I hope to god it performs a bit better than the ones in this thread :eek:

    Have you guys been back to the fitters to see if they can identify the problem?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,572 ✭✭✭Colser


    This is my first time posting so hope Im doing this right.Ive signed up as I got the Fiachra 7kw installed on Saturday and we are getting no heat at all from it...I have tried all combinations with the vents and there is NO heat at all. I lit it today and closed the door in the room...I went out for 3 hrs but room cold when I came home.I am so frustrated at this stage and will return to the shop tomorrow but cannot figure out what the prob could be...hope to get some advise on here..Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 10 story


    You should be seeing an improvement after 3 hours, to test my stove which is a 5KW Green insert stove I did the following.

    I left the secondary air vent half way open, I left the 2 primary air vents at the base of the stove open.The room was about 20 with the radiator also on as the other heat source in the room.

    I used a thermometer and the room was 26 degrees after it was on for about 2 hours. It maintained that level for 3 hours after I added the last fuel source.
    I used a combination of briquettes and smokeless coal.
    The room is approx 16 x 11 feet.

    To answer "Colser" if you are getting no heat at all I would put in a thermometer in the room and ask the installer to come back and advise what's gone on. At least then you can show the temp and proof the heats going up the chimney and not being throw out into the room.
    If your not happy with his explanation, I'd go back to the supplier and get them to check it was installed correctly.

    Is your stove a free standing or insert version?
    When its on does the cast iron get really hot to the touch? If i touch the sides or top of mine its red hot.
    Does the room have radiators, and what's the temp with just those on and not the stove and vice versa.
    What are the dimensions, is it a large space?
    This website provides a calculation to see if the stove output is right for the room size.

    http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-calculator.aspx


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,572 ✭✭✭Colser


    Thanks a mil for such a detailed reply...I am about to light stove now and installer is calling later to have a look...Its an insert stove and It is throwing out some heat now but not at all what we had hoped for..The room is big 16x17 ...I am keeping the door closed in the room (had hoped to leave them open and maybe heat kitchen a little also) ...someone has suggested a cowl as we are up high and its on a north facing wall..anyone that has called is agreeing with us...other family members have free standing stoves (cheaper and lower watt) there is no comparasion...theirs are fab to heat (smaller rooms but thats why i got the 7 kw)..hopefully we will sort something with the installer later...


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 Elsie15


    Hi Colser

    I was just wondering how you got on when the installer called to look at your stove. Did he solve the problem or give you any useful hints for improving the heat output?


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 Briany3


    HeidiHeidi, please let us know how you get. I am thinking of putting a 7KW in my room. It is double room.28x13 x9.5 heigh.

    Hope to hear from you.
    Brian .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,528 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    Briany3 wrote: »
    HeidiHeidi, please let us know how you get. I am thinking of putting a 7KW in my room. It is double room.28x13 x9.5 heigh.

    Hope to hear from you.
    Brian .

    Hi Brian,

    I'm still getting the hang of it - and there was all-out war between it and the smoke alarm for the first few days, but they seem to have made up and become friends lately - but it's the absolute business!!!

    My room is 12x24x9 (ish, can't remember the exact figures) so sounds very similar to yours. The thing takes about 30 seconds to light (two twists of paper, three or four kindling sticks and off it goes), and once I get the heat of the actual stove up, I can turn it right down and a single briquette will burn for an hour or more. Being used to constantly poking at and feeding an open fire, it's a totally new experience to just stick in a log or briquette and LEAVE IT ALONE. But I'm learning that you have to.

    For the moment i'm burning briquettes (some - they create a lot more ash) and some eco-logs that the installers gave me to try. They're great, and are by far the handiest from a storage point of view (I have very little room outside for log-piles) and create the least ash, so I can see me using those and maybe getting some actual logs for occasional use. I like the idea of using wood from a sustainability point of view.

    There was an unmerciful pong of (non-toxic, or so I was informed :eek:) paint fumes off it for the first couple of burns (which I suspect was what offended the smoke-alarm so grievously - it didn't look or feel smoky at all), but that seems to have cured nicely now, and it's burning away no bother at all.

    I haven't seriously tried the overnight burn yet, but last night I left it fully open burning almost-gone briquettes and this morning when I raked the ashes they were still red hot - so I can absolutely see the potential for a log and/or a few bits of coal keeping going all night no bother. (I'm not sure overnight burn is a feature of all stoves though - if that bit interests you you should make enquiries)

    Best thing I ever did - how I wish I'd got it years ago :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭timmy4u2


    No body have mentioned here the amount of air that is able to get to the stove. This is very important.
    Perhaps if you open the room doors before lighting it perhaps you will find that you will not need to close them later.
    Not a lot of use opening the lower vents if the room is not allowing sufficient air in.
    Neither have you mentioned the size of you flue. This is very important also as different stoves have different requirements.
    It is only a ball of cast iron and will heat according to the fuel so the problem must be with air intake or the flue


  • Company Representative Posts: 7 Verified rep Boru Stoves: Richard


    Hi rpmcmurphy

    Sorry to hear that you are having issues with the Stove. If you want you can private message me your number and I will make sure someone contacts you about the issue you are having.

    You can also give us a call on 0504 59033 where someone in the service department be happy to assist you.

    Kind regards,

    Boru Stoves


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭timmy4u2


    Hi rpmcmurphy

    Sorry to hear that you are having issues with the Stove. If you want you can private message me your number and I will make sure someone contacts you about the issue you are having.

    You can also give us a call on 0504 59033 where someone in the service department be happy to assist you.

    Kind regards,

    Boru Stoves
    And will we all be told what the problem was/is so that we will be informed


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 Briany3


    Thank you very much for the information. I am looking forward to getting my stove.
    Briany


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,572 ✭✭✭Colser


    Just wondering if anyone has had any luck increasing heat output from their stoves..Ive tried changing the type of coal and blocks but no real difference..Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭timmy4u2


    Colser wrote: »
    Just wondering if anyone has had any luck increasing heat output from their stoves..Ive tried changing the type of coal and blocks but no real difference..Thanks
    I suppose mine is not just a stove it is a large solid fuel cooker used for heating 14 rads.
    I was burning polish coal but found it really did not last long enough.
    Now I use the small bags of coal as sold on offer by Supervalue to start the fire. The lumps are small and easy to light.
    When lighting I put in bord na mona black diamond premium stove fuel and on top of that I put some Cosy Glo nuggets.
    When lighting I top it off with the day befores cinders mixed with slack, mixed with water.
    That way I get all the rads on full heat for up to eight hours on one builders rubber bucket full of fuel.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,572 ✭✭✭Colser


    `Thanks timmy4u2...I think my problem isnt really a fuel problem as I am getting a nice fire from the coal and blocks...it would be throwing out great heat if i had an open fire(i would think) but the heat is not being thrown out and yet it must be going somewhere...Lining the chimney is an option but I dont think this will suddenly throw the heat out ....Im begining to think i should have opted for the non insert stove as it seems an insert isnt going to work in the room...seemingly all chimneys are different and this maybe the problem that the heat is going up the chimney...the stove has been checked and no fault found so that is not the issue..Im going to try the different coal over the weekend and hope that this may help.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭timmy4u2


    Colser wrote: »
    `Thanks timmy4u2...I think my problem isnt really a fuel problem as I am getting a nice fire from the coal and blocks...it would be throwing out great heat if i had an open fire(i would think) but the heat is not being thrown out and yet it must be going somewhere...Lining the chimney is an option but I dont think this will suddenly throw the heat out ....Im begining to think i should have opted for the non insert stove as it seems an insert isnt going to work in the room...seemingly all chimneys are different and this maybe the problem that the heat is going up the chimney...the stove has been checked and no fault found so that is not the issue..Im going to try the different coal over the weekend and hope that this may help.
    You might need slow burning fuel as I use. It gives out some heat. The stove manufacturers should designate what size flue you need.
    I saw on a forum, and I think it was boards, a gadget that sits on top of the stove and the rising air operates a fan.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,572 ✭✭✭Colser


    Are cosy glo nuggets ok in my type of stove I wonder? That sounds like what I need...The flue is the recommened one but I will research the gadget for the top of stove..Thanks you very much for taking the time to reply..I will let you know how i get on.....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 222 ✭✭rpmcmurphy


    Sorry for not updating sooner. I have found a slight improvement by using eco brite coal and letting it build up and burn for a few hours then use wood. But to be honest the heat still is very poor. The whistling noise is very loud at all times and we have yet to open the door of the room due to excessive heat.
    I can stand directly in front of the stove even though it has been on several hours without discomfort. I have been in other homes where the heat would be unbearable if you stood in front of their stove. It throws out heat with the door open but not without which leads me to think everything is going up the chimney. The room is not large by any means.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭timmy4u2


    Colser wrote: »
    Are cosy glo nuggets ok in my type of stove I wonder? That sounds like what I need...The flue is the recommened one but I will research the gadget for the top of stove..Thanks you very much for taking the time to reply..I will let you know how i get on.....
    Cosyglo are for stoves but I find that because they are big they work better with the smaller ones underneath
    BTY my stove is now 26 years old:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,572 ✭✭✭Colser


    Hi rpmcmurphy...You have written exactly the same problem as I am having...I have spent hours in front of the stove feeling around for any bit of heat..i can put my hand within an inch of the stove even after the fire is lighting for hours and just a little heat that would have to be there from having a fire lighting but its not been thrown out if you know what I mean...I have tried to private message you to get a little more detail but Im not allowed as Im a new member...Can I ask you that if you open the top vent(thats meant to clean glass) does your fire take off and burn very very quickly as mine does ...also did you get your stove checked by someone...I described the area I am in earlier(up very high ect) would any of that be similar to your house? thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭timmy4u2


    Colser wrote: »
    Hi rpmcmurphy...You have written exactly the same problem as I am having...I have spent hours in front of the stove feeling around for any bit of heat..i can put my hand within an inch of the stove even after the fire is lighting for hours and just a little heat that would have to be there from having a fire lighting but its not been thrown out if you know what I mean...I have tried to private message you to get a little more detail but Im not allowed as Im a new member...Can I ask you that if you open the top vent(thats meant to clean glass) does your fire take off and burn very very quickly as mine does ...also did you get your stove checked by someone...I described the area I am in earlier(up very high ect) would any of that be similar to your house? thanks
    When you open those vents it is in order for the fire to blaze up. That is the gasses burning having received more oxygen
    That may ask the question, are you getting enough air into the bottom of your stove.
    Perhaps your fuel is blocking off the grate. Too much fuel could be worse than too little also. Try a small fire for a night, stocking up bit by bit and see if the temp dropscor increases.
    I havev a boiler in my stove supplying14 rads and a shovel of the small coal thatcI start the fire with will have the water up to 60 from cold in less than ten minutes


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 502 ✭✭✭Seamus1964


    Fine slack, mixed with water - how good is this idea (soot built up in flue/chimney) ?
    Fuel sure will last lot longer but wouldnt there be high risk for getting chimney in fire?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭timmy4u2


    Seamus1964 wrote: »
    Fine slack, mixed with water - how good is this idea (soot built up in flue/chimney) ?
    Fuel sure will last lot longer but wouldnt there be high risk for getting chimney in fire?
    I have been using slack watered down for many years and I have never had a chimney problem.
    I mix the night before cinders in with it and put it on when the stove has the water up to proper heat.
    All I have to watch out for is the gasses exploding as slack can trap them.
    My stove has a vent on the door to prevent this happening.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1 mick555


    Hi
    I just had a boru fiachra 7kw insert stove installed, there is poor heat from the stove and there is whistling noise is coming from the chimney. Same symptoms as “rpmcmurphy” and “Colser”.
    I have a feeling the whistling noise is excessive draft, which is drawing the heat up the chimney ?
    Has anybody remedied the above problem ? or is the boru fiachra insert just a bad stove ?
    HELP !!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 222 ✭✭rpmcmurphy


    no never found a solution, sorry. Would love to hear from someone else.....


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,572 ✭✭✭Colser


    I got the rep from Boru to call out...long story short his stance was that there was nothing wrong with the stove..yet on the day I had the fire lighting for hours and there was no heat from it(he was here for a few hours and dismantled the stove completely)...I had to sign a docket to say he had called and I wrote on it that I was unhappy with heat output but heard nothing again from them .
    The guy I bought it from made up a restrictor(for want of a better word) which was put at the top of the stove.This definitely made a difference (any heat was going to be an improvement tbh). Yet i cant say that the room ever gets really hot.
    Very disappointed overall and sorry that I bought the insert stove (which i choose because it looked well) and very unhappy that Boru didnt follow up on the problem .
    I would recommend the Hard Ash wood blocks as nothing else seems to throw out heat.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 148 ✭✭Aln_S


    Do you use a flue thermometer and is so what heat is the flue getting up to?

    I don't know if it will help but I find that getting the flue up to temperature with an initial starter fire is important for getting good heat out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 222 ✭✭rpmcmurphy


    Aln_S wrote: »
    Do you use a flue thermometer and is so what heat is the flue getting up to?

    I don't know if it will help but I find that getting the flue up to temperature with an initial starter fire is important for getting good heat out.

    Isn't any fire started an "initial fire" so to speak?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 148 ✭✭Aln_S


    Yes it would be, but I am specifically talking about a small hot "starter" fire in the stove using dry kindling.

    If you take a look at videos on youtube about starting a stove fire there are some good examples.

    I usually start the fire with dry kindling and leave the door ajar until the flue temp comes up to about 120c (I think) then start adding coal or wood and when it has caught close the door.

    Maybe you already do this, worth a try if not.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    To be fair it's not Borus problem if you have excessive draw in your chimney.
    If anything the Boru rep should be charging you for examining the stove and not finding fault.He came out to check a stove that has nothing wrong with it.

    Did you use a qualified fitter?
    Was your chimney inspected before installation?
    Did the fitter use a draft meter to check the draw in your chimney?

    To remedy the situation you are looking at the following solutions-
    Fit a flexi flue in the chimney if you have not already done so.
    Or fit an anti up draught cowl on top of your chimney.

    After that I don't think there is much else you can do.Your chimney is just situated in an area with strong drawing winds.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,572 ✭✭✭Colser


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    To be fair it's not Borus problem if you have excessive draw in your chimney.
    If anything the Boru rep should be charging you for examining the stove and not finding fault.He came out to check a stove that has nothing wrong with it.


    Did you use a qualified fitter?
    Was your chimney inspected before installation?
    Did the fitter use a draft meter to check the draw in your chimney?

    To remedy the situation you are looking at the following solutions-
    Fit a flexi flue in the chimney if you have not already done so.
    Or fit an anti up draught cowl on top of your chimney.

    After that I don't think there is much else you can do.Your chimney is just situated in an area with strong drawing winds.
    Is that directed at me?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 bulld


    Hi and sorry for posting on an old thread, I thought this might be useful to someone.
    I am not a stove installer but have experience with heating systems.
    I installed a insert stove in my own home and the heat from it was very poor and like the previous posters the whistling noise from around the stove was annoying , after 4 hrs of the stove running i was contemplating putting back in the open fire.

    The installation was completely wrong,( my fault) there is no simple installation of a insert stove regardless what the manufacturers say , The stove must be correctly attached to the chimney . to connect to your existing chimney( if it is in good condition) you will need a clay pot adapter, which is basically a reducer from the 8" chimney to either a 5 or 6 inch flue to match your stove. and then that pipe has to be connected air tight to your stove outlet.

    To fit a clay pot adapter you will need to break out the fireback as it wont fit up inside the existing opening , this is not very difficult just very messy.

    To check if your insert stove is correctly fitted to the chimney a simple check is take the baffle plate out and put your hand up inside the flue outlet, your hand should be inside the flue pipe connected to your stove , If you have a large hole up there the stove is incorrectly fitted and you will not get any heat from it.

    I re installed my stove correctly the second time and the heat is amazing ( yes we have to open doors as the room gets too hot)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 80 ✭✭virgo69


    I think this might be what is wrong with mine. It was installed two weeks ago, I have tried burning ordinary coal moving quickly on to stove coal and ash logs. The unit itself is scorching hot when the fire gets going and you can feel a bit of heat when you stand in front of the fire but that's it. I've tried vent open, half open, closed, I've even left the door of the stove open for a few minutes and while this does heat the room a bit as soon as I close the door its gone. The guy in the shop recommended a 4kw heat design insert stove, when the installer came out to do the survey he reckoned I should go for a 5kw which I did but its far from opening doors to let the heat out its more like opening the door to let the heat in. I've rang the installer and asked him to call over and see the fire lighting. I have a chimney which the installer cleaned for an extra charge, so he would have know if it needed to be lined etc, anyone know where I stand if the stove has to be taken out and work done on the chimney, i.e. will I have to bear the cost. Really fed up at this stage, I'm going through a fair amount of fuel to keep the fire blazing and would have had far more heat off an open fire. The fuel appears to be burning rapidly too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 bulld


    Hi Virgo,
    Yours sounds exactly like how mine was working when installed incorrectly, If the stove isn't coupled to the chimney correctly, When the flue gasses heat up they cause the "draft" or negative pressure at the stove that suck the air in, In my situation the air in the room was being sucked under the stove and out the chimney also due to the negative pressure. So the room was actually colder.

    Today my wife had the stove going from 11am till 11pm , the room was 23 degrees for most of the day we used half a small bucket of coal 2 logs and 4 briquettes. Room size is 21 x 15 and 3 external walls and i have a 4.5kw insert stove.
    I was over firing it at first and putting too much fuel into it , the same amount i would use in the open fire, The room was up to 26 degrees.

    Did the supplier recommend the Installer ?, In my opinion ( and happy to be proved wrong , I am no expert in stoves) If its not heating the room its installed incorrectly. Hopefully one of the resident stove experts will see this thread and respond with whatever recourse you may have .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 80 ✭✭virgo69


    Thanks for the reply Bulld, I lit the fire this evening at 8pm and the room is only getting comfortably warm now, that's after half coal bucket of coal and 4 ash logs. The installer supplied the stove, have you any idea if I need the clay pot adapter or something done with the chimney where I stand. Supply and fit was almost a grand and I wasn't banking on spending anything more, though I've got through almost two bags of coal at this stage and at €23 a pop it's not cheap. I hope the installer sticks to his word and calls out, I've used him before to fit the fireplace and had no problems so hopefully it will be the same again.

    Thanks again.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 80 ✭✭virgo69


    I lit the stove this evening at 7pm, I also purchased a room thermometer today. The sitting room was 15degrees at 7pm and is now 18 degrees, is this all I can expect? I've used three ash logs and a half bucket of stove coal. I can't see an easy way to check the baffle plate as everything seems firmly fixed in. I'm going to ring the installer again tomorrow, can anyone tell me where I stand if extra work needs to be done. He did all surveys, cleaning of the chimney etc.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 bulld


    Have you got the model of stove you have fitted , the baffle plate should be easily removed to sweep the chimney


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 80 ✭✭virgo69


    The model number is FW51 1055 Firwarm Range Insert Stove. He's calling out tomorrow but said on the phone today that he will replace the stove, that he has the same one and its heating perfectly. I'm going to have the stove lighting to show him how bad it is. It's lighting an hour now and I can't touch it yet the room is pretty cool at about 18 degrees. There's no point in him replacing the stove if the same thing is going to happen. I'd be afraid to remove anything incase it fecked up the warranty. I obviously haven't a breeze what I should be asking, I did mention the clay pot adaptor and he said it wasn't that...now I don't know if he mean't there wasn't one fitted or it wasn't causing the problem. I don't know what else I should be asking without coming across as a "know it all". Any advice?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 80 ✭✭virgo69


    Okay so he's replacing the stove, he admitted that the room should be far warmer than it is and he said the stove must be faulty. I asked him about a flu and he said it wasn't needed.

    By chance the gas boiler was giving trouble today, Bord Gais were out and I asked the engineer about the stove, he took the baffle plate off and he said there is just a big void between the stove and the chimney, that normally flues aren't needed for stoves under 7kw but was needed for this one. So do I let the stove installer remove the stove and put a new one in and wait and see or do I ask again about a flu? Any comments greatly appreciated.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    virgo69 wrote: »
    Okay so he's replacing the stove, he admitted that the room should be far warmer than it is and he said the stove must be faulty. I asked him about a flu and he said it wasn't needed.

    By chance the gas boiler was giving trouble today, Bord Gais were out and I asked the engineer about the stove, he took the baffle plate off and he said there is just a big void between the stove and the chimney, that normally flues aren't needed for stoves under 7kw but was needed for this one. So do I let the stove installer remove the stove and put a new one in and wait and see or do I ask again about a flu? Any comments greatly appreciated.

    Is the fire back still in place or was it removed.
    That stove doesn't require a flue as it just sits in against fireback.
    If there is a large void at the rear of the stove this is incorrect.
    He's the info on stove.
    Is your stove fitted as per drawing
    http://www.firewarm.ie/insert_stove


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 80 ✭✭virgo69


    The fire back is still in place as far as I know.
    The void is above the stove (see the third picture, it is above were the slant is).
    I don't know if there is void at the rear, but I would imagine not as the hearth would probably have been just deep enough to take the stove.
    I don't know if the stove was fitted as per the drawing but from my untrained eye, it does appear to be well fitted, well sealed etc.
    I find it hard to believe the stove could be faulty, the stove itself gets roasting hot within an hour but just doesn't throw out the heat, yet the chimney breast the next morning would be warm just above the mantle piece.
    He recommended a different type of coal called Eco glow, which I got and hasn't made any difference.

    Should I let him just replace the stove and hope that the new one works or am I just wasting time and fuel. I don't want to come accross like I am telling the man his job.
    Any thoughts?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    virgo69 wrote: »
    The fire back is still in place as far as I know.
    The void is above the stove (see the third picture, it is above were the slant is).
    I don't know if there is void at the rear, but I would imagine not as the hearth would probably have been just deep enough to take the stove.
    I don't know if the stove was fitted as per the drawing but from my untrained eye, it does appear to be well fitted, well sealed etc.
    I find it hard to believe the stove could be faulty, the stove itself gets roasting hot within an hour but just doesn't throw out the heat, yet the chimney breast the next morning would be warm just above the mantle piece.
    He recommended a different type of coal called Eco glow, which I got and hasn't made any difference.

    Should I let him just replace the stove and hope that the new one works or am I just wasting time and fuel. I don't want to come accross like I am telling the man his job.
    Any thoughts?

    All you can do is let him replace stove
    If problem persists then I would look at a different make.
    Personally I'm not a lover of that type of stove due to having to remove stove to clean chimney , not having a properly connected flue.
    That doesn't mean they're not good it's just my opinion


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 80 ✭✭virgo69


    New stove fitted and slightly warmer but not much. Now hitting 20 degrees with the stove lighting since 1pm and its quite mild out anyway. So fed up with this. I'm going to ring the stove company tomorrow to see what they make of it but I doubt the installer is going to replace this stove too. Do you think a clay pot adaptor will solve my problem?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,105 ✭✭✭cocoman


    virgo69 wrote: »
    New stove fitted and slightly warmer but not much. Now hitting 20 degrees with the stove lighting since 1pm and its quite mild out anyway. So fed up with this. I'm going to ring the stove company tomorrow to see what they make of it but I doubt the installer is going to replace this stove too. Do you think a clay pot adaptor will solve my problem?

    How did you get on with the manufacturers?
    I don't think a clay pot adaptor can be fitted with this type of stove. Out of interest what size room is the stove located? Is a well insulated house?
    If it's a stove that just slots into the existing fireplace then €1k seems a lot for supply and fit - I think those stoves are about €450-500 to buy.


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