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Pajero wont start, Help.

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  • 12-05-2014 8:10pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭


    I bought a pajero sport 2007 2.5 a few months ago that always had trouble starting.
    I would heat it 4 times then crank and she would pick up with a puff of smoke then run fine.
    No problem starting when warm.
    Having ruled out the plugs (replaced) the relay (12 volts) a local garage man did a compression test and
    told me that two of the cylinders had low compression
    We were going to run some oil additive through it to see if that would help
    But now the B**ch wont start at all.
    it cranks fine but wont pick up.
    Its outside the house and I am waiting for the mechanic to get time to do a house call.

    I was wondering if there is any sure fire way of starting it up with slightly low compression so that I can run some
    oil additive through it
    or if I get it started what is the best treatment to put through it.
    also If I have to open up the engine how complicated and expensive would it be
    I have a mechanic friend coming to stay with me in a few weeks what are the minimum tools needed?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 334 ✭✭Thelostcountry


    did you open an injector to make sure you have diesel?what happens when you give it a small shot of easy start? cylinder 3 and 4 down on compression??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,268 ✭✭✭visual


    Low compression is either piston rings or valves either or both will be time consuming to do. Plus you will need head gasket.

    Oil additives wont fix anything

    the low compression will make it run and idle bad even make starting difficult but wont stop it starting.

    You have another problem possibly fuel related causing no start.

    If you spray a little carb cleaner into engine air intake and it jumps to life look for injector leaks or fuel pump issues


  • Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭mufflets2


    did you open an injector to make sure you have diesel?what happens when you give it a small shot of easy start? cylinder 3 and 4 down on compression??

    No havnt checked injector, Havnt tried easy start , I presume you spray it on the air intake grill under the bonnet?

    cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭mufflets2


    visual wrote: »
    Low compression is either piston rings or valves either or both will be time consuming to do. Plus you will need head gasket.

    Oil additives wont fix anything

    the low compression will make it run and idle bad even make starting difficult but wont stop it starting.

    You have another problem possibly fuel related causing no start.

    If you spray a little carb cleaner into engine air intake and it jumps to life look for injector leaks or fuel pump issues

    some additives claim to release lube and seal rings and seals??
    Think you could be right there is possibly two problems going on now.
    thanks for tip with carb cleaner

    Thank god the garage man has rang and is going to collect and take this in on wed.

    If I was to ask a friend (mechanic) to open up the engine to do the rings and seals while he is staying here at the house with me in a few weeks what big equipment would i need to have ready (I have most regular tools)

    cheers


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,268 ✭✭✭visual


    mufflets2 wrote: »
    some additives claim to release lube and seal rings and seals??
    Think you could be right there is possibly two problems going on now.
    thanks for tip with carb cleaner

    Thank god the garage man has rang and is going to collect and take this in on wed.

    If I was to ask a friend (mechanic) to open up the engine to do the rings and seals while he is staying here at the house with me in a few weeks what big equipment would i need to have ready (I have most regular tools)

    cheers

    the head will have to come off to be inspected normal hand tools if there is enough access.
    Compression down on two cylinders side by side might be the head gasket or crack in head.
    Will only know from inspection with head off.

    jack, ramps or jack stands. Regular hand tools spanners, socket set and torque wrench, braker bar would be useful but probably won't need it on head.

    If the valves or head is faulty it probably better to have it sent away to be overhauled and skimmed. Then refitting head with new head gasket and torquing down to spec.

    I'm no mechanic just DIY. All this would be second nature to a mechanic.

    Until the head is taken off it will be difficult to tell what is causing the low compression and what will be needed. New head gasket will be required and depending on what other fault is found will determine what else needs to be done.

    With head off you can fill the piston side of the valves with petrol and if valves are leaking the petrol will leak past the bad valves quicker than the good valves

    same can be done with pistions.

    But when doing compression test its common to inject some oil so you can tell if its likely to be piston rings or valves.

    I think your bad starts are fuel related. Leaking injector or high pressure fuel line leaks

    the easy start or carb cleaner should point you in right dirrection


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  • Registered Users Posts: 334 ✭✭Thelostcountry


    mufflets2 wrote: »
    No havnt checked injector, Havnt tried easy start , I presume you spray it on the air intake grill under the bonnet?

    cheers


    Don't jump the gun with compression test results. I have seen many people preforming "compression test" wrong!! also a cylinder leak down test will point you in the right direction.(assuming you do have low compression that is) shot of easy start into inlet manifold with engine cranking just a shot.


    Im sure your mechanic friend will sort it out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    If you tow start it, it might start better.
    Swing an engine fast enough and it will usually start even if its low on compression.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    I would rule out that the timing has not slipped, the balancing belt is notorious in breaking before time and do slip the timing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭mufflets2


    Ok thanks lads,

    Ya . I should wait and see what the garage makes of it in the next few days.
    I'm hoping that a bit of investigation work will show that we won't have to open the engine . It shouldn't be wore with 140k kilometres on it.

    I will post the results
    Many thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭mufflets2


    Visual you were bang on,
    Head needed to come off, valve seals were gone , the head had cracks and couldn't be fixed,
    So I got a refurbished and tested head on eBay from England .delivered €310.

    And it's going fine
    Thanks for the advice lads I'll stick up a picture when I get it resprayed.
    (Another learning experience)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,668 ✭✭✭kay 9


    Them engines like been serviced regularly. I do mine every 3k. It's a 3.2 but mitsubishi diesels crave early oil changes. Hope it works out for ya.


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