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Low beams not working -burned wire? - pics included

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  • 05-03-2014 5:04pm
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 40


    Hi,

    Both low beams went AWOL the other night. Just had a look at the bulbs and I noticed fraying/burning near bulb. This pic is from passenger side. Still trying to get to driver side.

    Is this most likely my problem? Would it be possible to take out both low beams? The bulb on passenger side looks ok.

    zisl7k.jpg
    2444gvp.jpg


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 866 ✭✭✭renofan


    Have you checked to see of you have any fuse(s) blown? The wiring doesn't look too safe which is prob why the problem happened.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 40 CollyFowler


    renofan wrote: »
    Have you checked to see of you have any fuse(s) blown? The wiring doesn't look too safe which is prob why the problem happened.


    I haven't checked the fuse yet. Perhaps that's what I should have done first:D. I just got at the drivers side and the wiring seems perfect although the bulb is a little blackened it seems to have all its bits intact.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 40 CollyFowler


    Fuses are ok. Just noticed that the rubber weather seal wasn't around the passenger side assembly :mad: so that explains the cable deterioration.

    I think I will need a plastic replacement holder for the bulb in the pics above. Where the cables go into. Its all burnt. Does anybody know the technical term for these so I can search ebay for a replacement?

    Thanks.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Fuses are ok. Just noticed that the rubber weather seal wasn't around the passenger side assembly :mad: so that explains the cable deterioration.

    I wouldn't be so sure, auto-cables are hardy, the backs of my headlamps have been exposed 4 years since I paid an autobody repair shop to lose them for me. Looks more like heat damage to me. Could be the circuit was overloaded (which would explain why both went together previous DIY bodge perhaps?), bad contact causing arcing, higher output bulbs than the holder was rated is another possibility.
    I think I will need a plastic replacement holder for the bulb in the pics above. Where the cables go into. Its all burnt. Does anybody know the technical term for these ...

    Bulb holder, or socket probably organised by the bulb ie. a H4 bulb holder. http://vehicleelectricsshop.co.uk/products/Bulbs_and_Bulb_Holders

    Would it be possible to take out both low beams?
    I'd have to say it's rare if possible. Shouldn't unless it was tampered with or relay/switch failure.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,468 ✭✭✭sconhome


    Are your bulbs different to factory recommended? High wattage bulbs draw more power which can melt the connections and overload the wiring.


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  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 40 CollyFowler


    AKW wrote: »
    Are your bulbs different to factory recommended? High wattage bulbs draw more power which can melt the connections and overload the wiring.

    They are both 55W 12V H7. Funnily enough there is a bit of burning on the bulb where there isn't burning on the cable. The bulb on the side where the burnt cabling seems perfect.

    I'm gonna buy 1 bulb today to see if it will work.

    2b4bo2.jpg


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Burning on the side of the glass is common. When the filament pops it hits the internal glass sometimes it can melt through, those bulbs look serviceable though. Happens when you handle the glass too as the oils in your skin cause uneven heat distribution on the glass and pop the bubble.

    Cut out the damaged wire & splice in a new holder.
    hqdefault.jpg


    110w shouldn't be an issue on that cable, if a new holder and bulb doesn't remedy it I'd check the relay.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 40 CollyFowler


    Thanks for the input guys. I just swapped both bulbs and I'm back up and running.

    Thanks again


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭anthony4335


    That burn most likely is from a bad connection causing arching I would replace the connector as if it wasn't the source of the original problem it will most likely be an issue now. Better safe than sorry.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    That burn most likely is from a bad connection causing arching I would replace the connector as if it wasn't the source of the original problem it will most likely be an issue now. Better safe than sorry.

    +1


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