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New combi system - no heat in downstairs rads

  • 08-04-2014 9:32pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,476 ✭✭✭


    So, we've a brand new combi heating system. Boiler is Ideal Logic 24, control panel is EPH T27-HW, rads also have thermostatic valves and there's an upstairs and downstairs zone with wall-mounted thermostats. Water pressure is reading around 1 bar, and no error messages are showing.

    All rads have been on previously, but now it's only the upstairs rads that are heating up.

    All valves are open. I turned off the upstairs rads to see if the downstairs ones would come on. Nothing. I don't have a key to bleed the rads.

    I've googled, but no luck in finding an answer.

    Any ideas?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 914 ✭✭✭shane 007


    What make of motorised valve do you have installed & is there a light on it when programmer is on?
    Is the thermostat turned up for that zone?
    If hat zone only is on, is the boiler firing?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,476 ✭✭✭sarkozy


    The valves are, I think, also EPH - they're yellow. One of the valves is lit at present. The thermostats are turned up and the boiler is firing as normal.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 914 ✭✭✭shane 007


    Is the MV that the light is on the one for downstairs? You can check by turning down the stat to see if the light goes off on the MV.
    Also check to ensure that the MV body is secure on the valve body. The EPH are notorious for unclipping from the body. Wriggle the body to make sure it is securely fastened. If loose, you need to press the detach button & slight slide the control lever until it sits home on the valve.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,476 ✭✭✭sarkozy


    Hmm, I jiggled one, turned up both therms to max and it seems to be working. Mad.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 914 ✭✭✭shane 007


    sarkozy wrote: »
    Hmm, I jiggled one, turned up both therms to max and it seems to be working. Mad.

    Well let's just say EPH valves have their moments... You will eventually get to know them intimately. :D


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,476 ✭✭✭sarkozy


    What's the best brand valve and combi boiler?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 914 ✭✭✭shane 007


    To answer that would only be my opinion. Every installer will have a preference, many of those decision will be price based. Local suppliers will also be a factor as there is no point fitting something that is not stocked locally.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,476 ✭✭✭sarkozy


    OK, so, last night, the system finally seemed to be working. Timer on, waiting for the rads to come on this morning. Woke up to a cold house. The boiler is displaying 'F1' - low water pressure, which is hanging around the 0.4 bar mark. Quite a sudden drop by the looks of things.

    It's a new system so I'll get the builder/plumber around to fix it. I'm not getting into filling loops, etc.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 914 ✭✭✭shane 007


    sarkozy wrote: »
    OK, so, last night, the system finally seemed to be working. Timer on, waiting for the rads to come on this morning. Woke up to a cold house. The boiler is displaying 'F1' - low water pressure, which is hanging around the 0.4 bar mark. Quite a sudden drop by the looks of things.

    It's a new system so I'll get the builder/plumber around to fix it. I'm not getting into filling loops, etc.

    It may not be a sudden drop in pressure as when you looked at the pressure last night the system was hot, therefore the pressure would be much higher. Then system cools & pressure is at it's true cold pressure.
    If it is a new or recently altered system, then your best port of call is the person you paid to carry out the work.
    When they are back, get them to check the electrical parts of the system & check to ensure all the MV's are secured properly to the valve bodies.


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