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Ford 7610 restoration

  • 30-06-2014 10:03am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭


    Hi Guys,
    I have a ford 7610 that belonged to a relative of mine.It is of alot of sentimental value to me and it needs alot of work.Its an ap cab version which needs to be replaced.Now mechanically it is sound and needs very little work done to it.I intend to remove the old ap cab and respray the rest of it.
    It originally was a 4wd with a ZF apl345 axle but as you probably know these gave alot of trouble.I may or may not try to put another axle into it (depend on finances) or even if they can be got or maybe put a carraro axle in either.
    I am just wondering where are the best breakers to go to,I am based in the midlands.
    Thanks a mill.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14 Massey Byrne


    The only place I can think of is John Conaty in Kells Co.Meath.
    Give him a try he has all sorts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Thanks Massey
    will defo try him!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Well after posting my plans here i have made a good start on the project.
    Removed ap cab which is in bits,so it needs replacing.
    Power washed the whole tractor and put it in my shed.
    Removed diesel tank,radiator,fan,alternator.bonnet,cab mount.lift arms and anything else that i could.
    Lift cover off and replaced all componets in pto clutch pack.
    Replaced all o rings and gaskets in lift cylinder.
    Fitted new thermostat and housing on engine.
    The plan next is remove back wheels and get ready for painting.
    I am still on the hunt for a 4wd axle,i have one sourced but will try and get one elsewhere first.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    what physical condition is axle in at moment, forget about bearings i mean housing, swivel joints,bushings etc. an axle can be refurbished cheaper sometimes if the body is good. as well you would have correct gear ratios


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Hi Sandydan,
    Unfortunatly i dont have the axle any more as it was traded for a 2wd one when it broke so i have to get a complete one which is a big pain and costly €1500!!!!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,313 ✭✭✭✭Sam Kade


    I own a 1985 7610 with zf axle no problems with the axle even though I have a loader on the tractor. You wouldn't see too many fords with a carraro axle.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Sam Kade wrote: »
    I own a 1985 7610 with zf axle no problems with the axle even though I have a loader on the tractor. You wouldn't see too many fords with a carraro axle.

    Thanks Sam,
    Yeah i seem to remember the front hub coming off and when inspected the bearings were welded in or the nut was.
    I am hoping to get it back to original so may have to part with that sort of cash plus an ap cab for it.Mechanically its sound and its not like I will be doing alot with it either.
    Bringing home turf and a bit of other light work is all I will be at.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    Redriddick wrote: »
    Hi Sandydan,
    Unfortunatly i dont have the axle any more as it was traded for a 2wd one when it broke so i have to get a complete one which is a big pain and costly €1500!!!!

    sounds like extortion to me, no shame in keeping within a budget as your doing, you have plenty time if one turns up at right price later, it can be fitted. use the ordinary one for now & refurb rest of tractor and some one may be able to help,maybe a bit later on ,some regular tractor contributors seem to be away at minute,probably work commitments, at least i haven't seen posts by them in this or van or car section for a while, so hold tough as cork fellas say, a breaker may have one at better price or an exporter may do an exchange for your front axle with cash balance
    by the way have you placed any advert looking for one or just rang around.there is/was a breaker in Kerry near Ballymacelligot or some address like that,near Tralee. i cant think of their names but a fella got centre-drive housing for MF699 4wd front axle for €150 cogs and all. would cost him near €500 from another breaker.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Thanks again Sandydan.

    That price i got was from a breaker down in your own county.
    I did'nt put a wanted add anywhere yet as im just feeling the water first to see what the story is.I will spray up the 2wd axle alright for the time being if i dont come across one at the right price.
    Looked there on the aul google machine and the only place i can see near tralee is cliffords tractor parts but they seem to sell new.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    Redriddick wrote: »
    Thanks again Sandydan.

    That price i got was from a breaker down in your own county.
    I did'nt put a wanted add anywhere yet as im just feeling the water first to see what the story is.I will spray up the 2wd axle alright for the time being if i dont come across one at the right price.
    Looked there on the aul google machine and the only place i can see near tralee is cliffords tractor parts but they seem to sell new.

    might be them alright, id say ring them anyway,could be worth a garry,they might be able to source one for you when they were in the trade before. will ask 699 man if he answers the phone, have another source as well, but phone answering isn't his hobby. Cahir Hse are a big loss for stuff like that. i wonder does Mike Hoare(his family i think run business now) have any of that stuff, in Killorglin.Mike was good for sourcing stuff in England. Dan Connolly in Skibbereen might be worth a ring maybe.but there are others all over country
    like Tanners Bros .both advertise in done deal
    BTW i aint rich enough yet to buy out the rest of county,getting there slowly. I wish!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    shorten garage ballineen in west cork, (023)8847206 (i think)owner Alex Bowles is supposed to be good at sourcing stuff and is living up midlands some where if you ring shortens,ask for Alex or mob no, they will put you through to him or get him to ring you,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Right i'm after doing a small bit of research on the axle.I am now not so sure whether its an apl 325,335 or 345.I may have to ring someone and see.The reason i am having second thoughts is mine has power steering and not hydrostatic,which basically means i have a drag link going from the steering box to the front axle.
    The hydrostatic have pipes going form the steering box to the front axle as seen on super q cab versions.
    Regards,
    Redriddick


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    Redriddick wrote: »
    Right i'm after doing a small bit of research on the axle.I am now not so sure whether its an apl 325,335 or 345.I may have to ring someone and see.The reason i am having second thoughts is mine has power steering and not hydrostatic,which basically means i have a drag link going from the steering box to the front axle.
    The hydrostatic have pipes going form the steering box to the front axle as seen on super q cab versions.
    Regards,
    Redriddick
    i may be wrong but almost 100% sure saw a Q 7610 with a drag link but what axle it had i cant remember,was outside a garage in w cork for ages but sold eventually, must be in late 80s or early 90s, had they column change.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    I think the earlier 10 series had column change(not sure).The super q seem to have hydrostatic steering,the q may have had power.Now in saying that i have come across a 6610 with an apl345 with drag link so maybe it just depends on how the axle is setup.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    im no expert on tractors ,someone like Stavros or Emaherx and a few others who are probably busy with work commitments would be far better if they got involved, but i believe that if you go to a Ford either website or Dealer and give them serial nos and engine no , they will tell you year ,spec on axle, wheel sizes, etc almost 100% accurately . MF dealers will do same, i had oddball wheel sizes on 1987 mf390 and asked Cork Farm Machinery, giving them serial no and they told me what should be fitted.
    the Engine numbers were on right side of block at front. i think last figure on upper set gave year and letter on second set told month of manufacture, i may be wrong. i knew when i had ford but now...:confused: i know some one can give correct info on serial numbers
    right now id say you may be depending on a UK based source for that axle at a reasonable price in good nick
    do you know the right place for this 4wd drive axle search is probably in the Wanted Thread


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    I'm back.
    Just a quick post to say i have now sprayed the tractor and have it ready to put back together.I will post pictures later when i get home.
    I have still not sorted the front axle but am in no panic with it.
    The 2wd one is like new now so will stick that back in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Redriddick wrote: »
    I'm back.
    Just a quick post to say i have now sprayed the tractor and have it ready to put back together.I will post pictures later when i get home.
    I have still not sorted the front axle but am in no panic with it.
    The 2wd one is like new now so will stick that back in.

    Some pics for ye


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    where is the 4wd housing in the tractor.loks super job well done and good luck with rest of project. painting looks well


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    sandydan wrote: »
    where is the 4wd housing in the tractor.loks super job well done and good luck with rest of project. painting looks well
    Is it the 4wd transfer box??
    Its underneath will take a pic


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Redriddick wrote: »
    Is it the 4wd transfer box??
    Its underneath will take a pic
    Picture of transfer box


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Well its been awhile (a full year actually) wow and the tractor is still in the way but I am now in a position to get back at it.
    So I have placed a wanted add in donedeal for the axle and cab.
    I got a price for the axle from a breaker in England that wanted 2000 sterling for it.
    I aint gonna part withthat sort of cash for it,maybe if the cab was included.
    Gonna try conaty and the lads in courtmacsherry but its a long spin down there for me.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    a bit of advice i got recently is take what you buy on day you see and pay for it, so ideally contact a courier and find out if they are in area on day you see item


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    ok so another 12 months has passed (must be the longest restoration in history) anyhoo!!
    The good news is I have my axle,well nearly it is on the way,should have it next week.
    When i get it I'll take some before and after pics.
    I now am on the hunt for a good clean AP cab.
    I have found one in England that I could just bolt on,that's how clean it is but the cost of delivery is killing me.
    It's 355 sterling,anybody know of anyway cheaper to get it back??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,851 ✭✭✭Ten Pin


    It's 355 sterling,anybody know of anyway cheaper to get it back??

    Have you tried backload.ie ? They use returning hauliers to pick up one off items.

    Heard them advertised a while ago, maybe someone else here might know about them and / or used them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Well I have my axle!!!
    Should I strip all the paint off or just rough it up before painting???


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 422 ✭✭marlyman


    From April 1981 to Dec 1984 the axle was a APL 325
    There was some overlap.
    From may 1984 to march 1985 the axle was APL 335
    From April 1985 to April 1987 the axle was a 345/350 ( same thing)
    From April 1987 to the end of her life the axle was a Carrero Type 709/19 S2
    There was only one type of carrero on them.

    Now your tractor is more than likely a ZF because the early zf's used the power steering box and the ram is inside the box, where the 2 pipes goes in. thats why your brag ling going up the front axle is solid and not hollow like mnose drag links, the steering box IS the ram.

    As regards picking one up your best bet is goingto minderstma in netherlands, ask for mark, http://www.agri-parts.eu/onderdeel/ford/7710/frontaxle/ . thats him in the pic. for shipping use shiply or backload.ie .

    in this county because theyre so popular and brakers know they can get a lot for the parts.

    sen them the serial number of your tractor too.

    here a manual to give you a dig out

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5BPDFOmfQ1gVGRGUmZOdzRmYWs


    if not Sjorup in denmark deffo has one but he only deals with dealers. if netherlands is no good ill make an enqiury for you there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Thanks Marlyman for the info.
    As you can see from my last post i know have got my hands on an APL335 from the uk along with the bottom diesel tank and the front oil cooler rad.
    The only thing left I have to get is an AP cab.
    I have sourced one in the UK at 1000 sterling plus 350 for delivery,I may bite the bullet on it after the xmas.
    It is in pristine condition but at just over 1500 euro I dont know if the price is good.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    HI guys,
    Well I have bought the ap cab from the uk and I should have it in the next few weeks.
    A quick question I need to get the front wheels rims and all.
    What size are they???
    r24??
    I have 16.9 r34 on the back.

    Any info would be great


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    A few more pics guys.
    I am getting there!!
    Just waiting ti get the front wheels now.
    I am gonna bring in the cab when I move the tractor out and touch up a few spots on it but otherwise its mint.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    A quick question lads.
    I need to replace the wiring loom from the dash out to the engine and lights.
    Anyone know where I could get one, the old one is gone all hard and brittle.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,164 ✭✭✭zetecescort


    do Agriline do them? I know they have looms for the older 2-5000 series.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    do Agriline do them? I know they have looms for the older 2-5000 series.


    I don't think so. They seem to be very hard to get!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,164 ✭✭✭zetecescort


    If the old loom is complete I'd imagine it wouldn't be too much work fpr an auto electrician to copy it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 77 ✭✭DX85


    This post has been deleted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,629 ✭✭✭TheBody


    DX85 wrote: »
    This post has been deleted.

    I've lived in Longford all my life and never heard of them!!! Great find. Thanks for that!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    I emailed brewsters last week and they aid they could possibly repair the old one.
    To be honest the old one is in pretty dire condition as when the tractor was split to do the clutch the cables were cut and joined back together with cable joiners. It has also gone very brittle and hard.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,203 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Redriddick wrote: »
    I emailed brewsters last week and they aid they could possibly repair the old one.
    To be honest the old one is in pretty dire condition as when the tractor was split to do the clutch the cables were cut and joined back together with cable joiners. It has also gone very brittle and hard.

    I had a similar issue to yourself with a 300 series MF. Looms could be got but prices were very high. I think it cost well over 1000 Euro for complete wiring harness (in 3 separate pieces).
    So I took the old one and replaced one wire at a time along with a few new connectors where needed. Wasn't exactly fun but can be done, just use proper terminals and not cheap crappy ones.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    emaherx wrote:
    I had a similar issue to yourself with a 300 series MF. Looms could be got but prices were very high. I think it cost well over 1000 Euro for complete wiring harness (in 3 separate pieces). So I took the old one and replaced one wire at a time along with a few new connectors where needed. Wasn't exactly fun but can be done, just use proper terminals and not cheap crappy ones.


    Yeah it might be a route I'll have to go down.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 279 ✭✭discodaveirl


    https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/37/category/7

    Few of these connectors should do the job for you. Mightent be any harm to add an isolator on the battery, always offers a nice bit of peace of mind.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,203 ✭✭✭emaherx


    https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/37/category/7

    Few of these connectors should do the job for you. Mightent be any harm to add an isolator on the battery, always offers a nice bit of peace of mind.

    Get the right crimping tool also, don't just use a pliers or the ones that come with those crappy colored terminals. Proper crimps will fold the cable grip ends the same as your original wiring not just squash them.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,164 ✭✭✭zetecescort


    It might be worth asking over in the Motoring forum if anybody can recommend an auto electrician near you


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Hi guys,
    I'm back. Must be the slowest resto ever.
    I have taken the dual power pack out as the seals were gone in it. I decided that I would replace the disks in the pack while it is split. I'm this pack there are 4 steel plates and three friction plates. My query is the two workshop manuals I have say there should be 3 of each type of disk in the pack. Anybody have any ideas??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 755 ✭✭✭stock>


    This was common enough practice to insert additional discs to remove excess wear on the drum..........................


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    stock> wrote:
    This was common enough practice to insert additional discs to remove excess wear on the drum..........................


    Reckon I'll put it back the same way, 3 and 4.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,420 ✭✭✭Suckler


    Redriddick wrote: »
    Hi guys,
    I'm back. Must be the slowest resto ever.

    How did you get on with the wiring?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Suckler wrote:
    How did you get on with the wiring?


    Gonna do it myself. Only 16 wires, 3 for starter 2 for alternator, headlights,oil pressure eff. Fairly handy to do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    All done and back together. Cant test cause I have no cab or clutch pedal so will see at a later date....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    Guys,
    Any Of you use tractol to paint your tractor. Just wondering if I should give the tractor a coat of clear lacquer???


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,519 ✭✭✭TrailerBob


    I don't use lacquer on smaller tractors, but depends on what you want. It might help protect it in the long run. I find an extra coat or two of the colour is good.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,112 ✭✭✭Redriddick


    TrailerBob wrote:
    I don't use lacquer on smaller tractors, but depends on what you want. It might help protect it in the long run. I find an extra coat or two of the colour is good.


    Thanks. I have about 4 coats of colour on it now and was debating whether to lacquer it or not.....


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