Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)

Shooting Forum - Firearms licencing information


Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Reblue.

Options
  • 25-01-2015 11:39pm
    #1
    snipe49
    Registered Users Posts: 735 ✭✭✭


    Lad i want to reblue my side by side the barrels are bad on it . Have any of you got any advice on where i might get a kit to do the job.


Comments

  • Options
    #2
    sniperman
    Registered Users Posts: 1,976 ✭✭✭sniperman


    snipe49 wrote: »
    Lad i want to reblue my side by side the barrels are bad on it . Have any of you got any advice on where i might get a kit to do the job.
    google gun blueing kit,all the stuff youll need;)


  • Options
    #3
    snipe49
    Registered Users Posts: 735 ✭✭✭snipe49


    sniperman wrote: »
    google gun blueing kit,all the stuff youll need;)

    Good man will do. :)


  • Options
    #4
    djflawless
    Registered Users Posts: 1,868 ✭✭✭djflawless


    I think griffin hawe sell them bud


  • Options
    #5
    djflawless
    Registered Users Posts: 1,868 ✭✭✭djflawless


    Literally just got this for my own use!let you know how it goes!


  • Options
    #6
    snipe49
    Registered Users Posts: 735 ✭✭✭snipe49


    djflawless wrote: »
    Literally just got this for my own use!let you know how it goes!
    good luck with it what are u using to clean all the old stuff off with. ?


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #7
    djflawless
    Registered Users Posts: 1,868 ✭✭✭djflawless


    Not sure what way I'm going to manoeuvre yet!
    Will have a bit of research done before I even open the bottle


  • Options
    #8
    snipe49
    Registered Users Posts: 735 ✭✭✭snipe49


    djflawless wrote: »
    Not sure what way I'm going to manoeuvre yet!
    Will have a bit of research done before I even open the bottle
    A lad on here tld me t have a look on U Tube i did and there all u need to knw on there,'


  • Options
    #9
    djflawless
    Registered Users Posts: 1,868 ✭✭✭djflawless


    Ah well not going to chance it till I know I have a few hours to spare for definite but there will be plenty of research done :)


  • Options
    #10
    Chiparus
    Registered Users Posts: 2,254 ✭✭✭Chiparus


    I find those kits are "OK" for small spots, but you are much better off getting it done professionally if you have large areas.


    I got my 1982 shotgun done recently , the barrels are like new again.


  • Options
    #11
    snipe49
    Registered Users Posts: 735 ✭✭✭snipe49


    Chiparus wrote: »
    I find those kits are "OK" for small spots, but you are much better off getting it done professionally if you have large areas.


    I got my 1982 shotgun done recently , the barrels are like new again.
    If u don't mind me asking how much did it cost. ?


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #12
    Chiparus
    Registered Users Posts: 2,254 ✭✭✭Chiparus


    €120, with new sights/beads.


  • Options
    #13
    snipey
    Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭snipey


    where did you get it done


  • Options
    #14
    Chiparus
    Registered Users Posts: 2,254 ✭✭✭Chiparus


    PM sent


  • Options
    #15
    J s682
    Registered Users Posts: 49 ✭J s682


    Would you mind sending me the details also? How long is the turn around on getting them done?


  • Options
    #16
    mickjohnlong
    Registered Users Posts: 394 ✭✭mickjohnlong


    hi could you also sent me on the details as well please.


  • Options
    #17
    recipio
    Registered Users Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭recipio


    There is a world of difference between hot and cold blueing.
    A professional will use the hot blueing technique which is way better than touch ups with cold blue. A lot of the work involves pre-cleaning and personally I'd spend the money for a nice job.


  • Options
    #18
    tac foley
    Registered Users Posts: 5,500 ✭✭✭tac foley


    Cold bluing is great for screw heads, barrel bands and small components where a single-wipe action covers it in one fell swoop. Many times. I've used the Birchwood-Casey stuff for many years on such pieces, and it CAN be very good. However, everything depends on the level of preparation, and I made sure that every piece I did started off looking like it was polished to a a 'chrome-plate' level before ever I laid the stuff on it. Cotton gloves, not vinyl, and absolute cleanliness are the order of the day.

    About ten years ago, I had a Mauser back sight unit salt-blued to match the rest of the 1937-build rifle - it cost £120, much of which went on a one-day HAZMAT license to use fuming cyanide salts to effect the finish. Barrel bluing- called blacking in the trade - is not something done lightly by an amateur.

    tac


  • Options
    #19
    snipe49
    Registered Users Posts: 735 ✭✭✭snipe49


    tac foley wrote: »
    Cold bluing is great for screw heads, barrel bands and small components where a single-wipe action covers it in one fell swoop. Many times. I've used the Birchwood-Casey stuff for many years on such pieces, and it CAN be very good. However, everything depends on the level of preparation, and I made sure that every piece I did started off looking like it was polished to a a 'chrome-plate' level before ever I laid the stuff on it. Cotton gloves, not vinyl, and absolute cleanliness are the order of the day.

    About ten years ago, I had a Mauser back sight unit salt-blued to match the rest of the 1937-build rifle - it cost £120, much of which went on a one-day HAZMAT license to use fuming cyanide salts to effect the finish. Barrel bluing- called blacking in the trade - is not something done lightly by an amateur.

    tac
    What would you use to pre clean barrels ?


  • Options
    #20
    tac foley
    Registered Users Posts: 5,500 ✭✭✭tac foley


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7I9wCeD2eh4

    Many methods on YT, but basically the old surface must be removed by using fine abrasive paper - 300/400 grade to avoid scratches - and then, ideally, polished using a motorised polishing wheel or mop, set to run at around 300rpm - to avoid friction burns on the exposed steel.

    That's what I did - your mileage may differ.

    tac


Advertisement