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Detailing Thread
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Plenty of lubrication using the clay and you won't go wrong....just don't drop it.
Cut the clay bar into 3 pieces in case you do drop it. Don't move onto the next section until the clay runs over the area totally freely. You can't do any damage provided there is no contamination on the clay, keep it lubed and turn and knead it every few minutes.
Claying makes a massive difference, so it's worth spending time making sure you do it right and ensuring you cover every square inch of paintwork.
Used / dirty clay can be used on wheels, glass, etc, anything you want to get bonded contaminants off a smooth surface.
Thanks for the tips,
I bought the Sonus clay with lube kit, so reckon it should be pretty slick. I've seen a few videos of people claying, and the Junkman probably gave the best truly practical tips (but then he started showboating and dropped his clay
). Good point about using the clay on the windows once its part used.
One area of the car was resprayed in the past so the paint is softer there and picks up swirls and marring easier than the rest so thats my main area of concern. I plan on taking it pretty handy anyway.0 -
Generally repainted areas should have alot more paint than machine painted panels by factory robot....so in theory you should have more clear coat to remove, even if it is softer. Softer means easier to correct, but also easier to leave holograms, so a finer polish or softer pad will be needed.
But you said you'll take it handy, so your grand!
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RandomAccess wrote: »Unfortunately I have a sixth sense for rubberneckers.
Wait till they see me taking an 'angle grinder' to the paint :eek: :pac:
Yeah,
I was getting some queer looks last January when I was doing the Toledo.. Freezing cold and windy and there's me "Grinding" away 0 -
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You could use microfiber cloths but it can be a bit awkward.
Apply SRP with a foam applicator pad and buff off with a plush microfiber cloth.
Apply Extra Gloss Protection with a microfiber applicator, similar to below, and buff off with a plush microfiber cloth.
or
For buffing, I've never used a buffing cloth better than Microfiber Madness Crazy Pile, really plush and makes removing wax / sealant or polish so much easier!0 -
You could use microfiber cloths but it can be a bit awkward.
Apply SRP with a foam applicator pad and buff off with a plush microfiber cloth.
Apply Extra Gloss Protection with a microfiber applicator, similar to below, and buff off with a plush microfiber cloth.
or
For buffing, I've never used a buffing cloth better than Microfiber Madness Crazy Pile, really plush and makes removing wax / sealant or polish so much easier!
excellent thanks for the info clears it all up for me0 -
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Car was in a definate need of a wash...using my birds da's Karcher..have to say I was impressed..I've never used a portable one before and might make the
investment!
BEFORE: Some VERY bad clear coat scratching on this car...poor thing has obviously been attacked with a sponge for manys a year
AFTER: First timer using a DA so I will admit I haven't the foggiest what I'm doing...but thats the advantage of using the Kestrel DA
I started off with the finishing pad and menzrena final finish, I then moved onto Menzrena medium cut and finishing pad, and then to medium cutting pad and medium cut menzerna. The car actually looks like it has a new wing on it and it hasn't even been waxed yet! RESULT
definately some Voodoo inside that Kestrel machine
I only done the top half of the wing , I took currans advice as its back breaking repetitive stuff..so I am goin to choose a panel and move through the car
I only picked one of these up the other day in Aldi 11.99....you do not want to try and detail without one!
Some small scrapes still need doing but a 1000% improvment
Look closely and you can see the difference between door and wing
ALOT DONE...............MORE TO DO.:cool:0 -
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TestTransmission wrote: »Very impressed
Cheers man, appreciated
The other wing is just as bad if not worse! but the rest of the car isn't too bad with the exception of the engine bay at the rear. Its a long process but it will be worth it in the end!0 -
Working at about 2500 / 3000 rpm will be safe.
Generally.....
Speed 1, to spread the polish on one pass, move onto....
Speed 2, to warm the polish up, two passes, move onto....
Speed 3, to work polish until clear...two or three passes.....move onto....
Speed 2, to final refine...
Buff off.
Work in small sections, 12" x 12" sections...bigger and the polish dries out or not worked properly.
Take your time, be patient, dont expect full correction in just one or two hits. A panel an evening, or two a day off and enjoy it, because it can get tedious.
Hope this helps!
I followed your advice earlier Curran..roughly how long timewise should I be spending on each pass?0 -
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eringobragh wrote: »I will admit I haven't the foggiest what I'm doing...but thats the advantage of using the Kestrel DA
I started off with the finishing pad and menzrena final finish, I then moved onto Menzrena medium cut and finishing pad, and then to medium cutting pad and medium cut menzerna
Good work eringobragh!! Massive improvement there!
Maybe its the way you worded it, but just to clarify, you start with the final finish on a finishing pad, then move up to the next stage off cut, and up again, until you find the combo that is giving you the best results / or satisfactory results. There is no need to go through the three pads.
So next time you do a panel, go straight for the medium cut polish and medium pad This will give you correction on one hit, but then might need a hit with final finish and finishing pad.....especially on soft Jap paint. Medium cut will likely leave holograms on soft paint.
Also, did you go through the decontamination process fully? Wash, de-tar and clay, before you started polishing? If no, you probably noticed your pads getting very dirty??0 -
Good work eringobragh!! Massive improvement there!
Maybe its the way you worded it, but just to clarify, you start with the final finish on a finishing pad, then move up to the next stage off cut, and up again, until you find the combo that is giving you the best results / or satisfactory results. There is no need to go through the three pads.
So next time you do a panel, go straight for the medium cut polish and medium pad This will give you correction on one hit, but then might need a hit with final finish and finishing pad.....especially on soft Jap paint. Medium cut will likely leave holograms on soft paint.
Also, did you go through the decontamination process fully? Wash, de-tar and clay, before you started polishing? If no, you probably noticed your pads getting very dirty??
Yeah I was try combos of pads and polish to find the perfect match...I was told to use the least first and work your way up until you find what suits the scenario!
Theres very little car if any as I did detarred it a while ago but I didn't clay it as I don't have one!
Which leaves me to my next purchase!
Which clay kit should I get?? http://www.cleancar.ie/detailingclay.html
Further to that is there anything else I need for the bodywork..Ive the DAS-6 kit with Blacklight..0 -
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eringobragh wrote: »Saw that looks well, final stage for me I guess :cool:
I hope it's the penultimate stage for you! Wax must go on after BL 0 -
well I'm a first time poster in this thread but have been reading it for a while now and started to get into detailing.
Before I started to getting the car cleaning bug I used to wash the car regularly and polish it a few times a year.
I recently got €30 for doing a survey so decided to spend it on a "Meguiars clay bar kit"
Here is the result after a wash clay and polish on the dads Insignia over the weekend. (i'm a poor student so can't afford to run my own car )
Insignia
now I need tar remover recommendations!!!!0 -
Good stuff Will look great when you're done.
Did you get to the sound deadening?
funny thing that, meant to say it to you: I changed the back tyres in January from 195's to the Falken 225s (factory spec) and the bad road noise stopped!
It's much smoother now..just goes to show you0 -
well I'm a first time poster in this thread but have been reading it for a while now and started to get into detailing.
Before I started to getting the car cleaning bug I used to wash the car regularly and polish it a few times a year.
I recently got €30 for doing a survey so decided to spend it on a "Meguiars clay bar kit"
Here is the result after a wash clay and polish on the dads Insignia over the weekend. (i'm a poor student so can't afford to run my own car )
Insignia
now I need tar remover recommendations!!!!
Holts Tar Remover - 6 euros or so from Motorfactors and trust me it works...others say petrol does the job as well.0 -
MetzgerMeister wrote: »I hope it's the penultimate stage for you! Wax must go on after BL
...I've CG V7 to go ontop of the Blacklight...surely thats enough! 0 -
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eringobragh wrote: »...I've CG V7 to go ontop of the Blacklight...surely thats enough!
Yup, that's a sealant 0
This discussion has been closed.
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