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Car Overheating

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  • 23-05-2015 10:03pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,525 ✭✭✭


    Hi lads (and possibly ladies)

    I drove somewhere this evening and just as I was arriving home the car started to overheat.

    The gauge which normal sits smack bang in the middle at 90' went about 3/4 of the way up and I got a red COOLANT warning on the dash computer.

    I went inside and let it cool off, came back out a while later and checked the coolant to find that it was FULL!

    I took the car on a spirited drive, it happily sat at 90' and then again just before arriving back it started overheating.

    I left it to idle, the fans were going crazy and temp gauge started slowly dropping.

    Any ideas what could be wrong??

    image.jpg


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 640 ✭✭✭Tony Beetroot


    make/model?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    ION08 wrote: »
    Hi lads (and possibly ladies)

    I drove somewhere this evening and just as I was arriving home the car started to overheat.

    The gauge which normal siting smack bang in the middle at 90' went about 3/4 of the way up and I got a red COOLANT warning on the dash computer.

    I went inside and let it cool off, came back out a while later and checked the coolant to find that it was FULL!

    I took the car on a spirited drive, it happily sat at 90' and then again just before arriving back it started overheating.

    I left it to idle, the fans were going crazy and temp gauge started slowly dropping.

    Any ideas what could be wrong??

    image.jpg

    Any changes to the car recently? You say the coolant level is full, so I am guessing there is no signs of a leak. In that case I would be looking at a faulty thermostat that is not opening when required or an air lock in the system.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,893 ✭✭✭allthedoyles


    It might be simply that the fan is not cutting in when it should .


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,525 ✭✭✭ION08


    make/model?

    Audi A4 (B6) 1.9 TDI


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,935 ✭✭✭randy hickey


    Maybe the coolant temperature sensor needs replacing?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,525 ✭✭✭ION08


    Cheers all

    Temp sensor was changed about 3 years ago (25,000 miles ago) reason being that it would take forever to get up to full operating temp. Is it likely to have gone again after 3 yrs/25k?

    Could it be a thermostat?

    Also, how could i check/diagnose if its an air lock in the system?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    Is your heater working?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,525 ✭✭✭ION08


    Is your heater working?

    Yes george it is both hot and cold.

    I've done a bit of homework and it seem like the plastic impellor shaft in the water pump could be at fault.

    Coolant temp sensor and thermostat have recently been changed.

    Timing belt kit was done in 2011 but no mention of water pump on invoice :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    Sounds like water pump alright. If you take out the thermostat you can access the impeller that way to check.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,525 ✭✭✭ION08


    Is your heater working?

    So it started overheating again today driving along the M50. :(

    I turned the heater on full blast and it was actually blowing cold air.

    I had to pull over (a few times) and let the car idle which would drop the temperature back to normal.

    Funny thing is, as the temperature dropped back to normal, the heater began blowing hotter air.

    What are the changes of it being a thermostat and not a water pump??? Or is that wishfull thinking? :o


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,315 ✭✭✭Pkiernan


    What you describe sounds like an intermittently sticking thermostat to me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,525 ✭✭✭ION08


    Hopefully! As the water pump is apparently a big job to change.

    Also, I forgot to mention, I have an OBD code reader and its not throwing up any codes at all which I thought was a bit odd.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    I've never seen a thermostat stick closed on one of these, only open.

    If I were you I would be hoping that it was the water pump because the other issue that gives similar symptoms on one of these is the head gasket.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,525 ✭✭✭ION08


    I've never seen a thermostat stick closed on one of these, only open.

    If I were you I would be hoping that it was the water pump because the other issue that gives similar symptoms on one of these is the head gasket.

    Head gasket crossed my mind but the engine was seemingly in too good of shape I thought.

    Theres only 141k on it with full history and regularly serviced. Ive owned it for 3.5 years and treated it really well.

    I checked the oil cap and theres doesnt seem to a spec of mayo or gunk on it!

    George, what would the labour roughly cost on getting a water pump replaced?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 Treeservice


    water pump fecked. dont know much about audis


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,728 ✭✭✭George Dalton


    You won't get mayo in the oil with the way the gasket fails on these. These PD engines always blow between the cylinders and the water galleries and give exactly the symptoms you are describing.

    If it does turn out to be the water pump then you may as well just get the timing belt kit and auxiliary belts done as well. €350 or so should cover that. As I said previously in the thread, it's only a few minutes work to check the impeller on the pump by removing the thermostat. If I were you I wouldn't drive the car any more until it is sorted because even if the head gasket isn't the cause of the problem now it will soon fail if you keep driving the car around while it is overheating.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,187 ✭✭✭Andrewf20


    Im not up to speed on Audi engines but this may help. Another way to check if the water pump is working is to take the cap off the expansion tank and see if there is water gushing into it once you give the engine a bit of revs.

    Id only do this test from cold, baring in mind it wont flow initially as the thermostat will be closed. You can rev the engine by pulling the throttle cable under the bonnet but watch that temp gauge like a hawk. Engines heat up quickly sitting in a driveway.


  • Posts: 17,728 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Andrewf20 wrote: »
    .... Engines heat up quickly sitting in a driveway.

    Diesels take their time


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    Andrewf20 wrote: »
    Im not up to speed on Audi engines but this may help. Another way to check if the water pump is working is to take the cap off the expansion tank and see if there is water gushing into it once you give the engine a bit of revs.

    Id only do this test from cold, baring in mind it wont flow initially as the thermostat will be closed. You can rev the engine by pulling the throttle cable under the bonnet but watch that temp gauge like a hawk. Engines heat up quickly sitting in a driveway.
    You'll have your work cut out trying to find a throttle cable, op.....Listen to GD and don't drive it until it's properly checked out, a stitch in nine and all that...


  • Registered Users Posts: 74 ✭✭Pa994


    If its not burning the coolant it can't be head gasket can it? Correct me if I'm wrong, i reckon its a thermostat problem what you mentioned about the heaters seems to point to it


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,174 ✭✭✭orm0nd


    jca wrote: »
    You'll have your work cut out trying to find a throttle cable, op.....Listen to GD and don't drive it until it's properly checked out, a stitch in nine and all that...


    +1


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,525 ✭✭✭ION08


    Pa994 wrote: »
    If its not burning the coolant it can't be head gasket can it? Correct me if I'm wrong, i reckon its a thermostat problem what you mentioned about the heaters seems to point to it

    That's exactly what I thought too but i suppose George knows best..

    I'm not losing or burning any coolant and there is no smoke coming from anywhere to indicate that it is mixing with the oil :confused:

    From the research I've done, I'd be fairly certain the plastic impeller on the water pump is intermittently failing.

    As I mentioned, I have gone through my service history and there is a record of the "Timing Belt Kit" and "Thermostat" having been done in 2011 (~30k miles ago) but no mention of Water Pump...

    IMG_2206.jpg

    As I said previously in the thread, it's only a few minutes work to check the impeller on the pump by removing the thermostat.


    I might just change the Thermostat and Coolant Temp Sensor again as they are relatively inexpensive and easy to do and check the impeller on the water pump in the process.

    George, If you could tell me how to check the impeller it would be greatly appreciated :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    I think the point most of us here are making is that it's most likely to be the water pump and if you keep driving it the head gasket will blow.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,525 ✭✭✭ION08


    jca wrote: »
    I think the point most of us here are making is that it's most likely to be the water pump and if you keep driving it the head gasket will blow.

    Point taken, I wont keep driving it as i take public transport to work, the mrs will probably drive it to the local shopping centre and back whcih is 7 miles away, not enough time to overheat.

    Will get this looked as asap just want to know what to expect...

    Looks like it will be €350-€450 for the water pump as I may aswell get belts done at the same time.

    Annoying considering the TB kit was already done 30k miles ago but the garage skimped on a 50 quid water pump :mad::mad::mad:

    I've tried to ring them but can't get through to them (over in the UK)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    ION08 wrote: »
    Point taken, I wont keep driving it as i take public transport to work, the mrs will probably drive it to the local shopping centre and back whcih is 7 miles away, not enough time to overheat.

    Will get this looked as asap just want to know what to expect...

    Looks like it will be €350-€450 for the water pump as I may aswell get belts done at the same time.

    Annoying considering the TB kit was already done 30k miles ago but the garage skimped on a 50 quid water pump :mad::mad::mad:

    I've tried to ring them but can't get through to them (over in the UK)

    That is bloody annoying alright. I'm surprised at any garage going to all the bother of doing the belt and not doing the pump at the same time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,525 ✭✭✭ION08


    Finally got this sorted. It was the water pump that needed replacing in the end.

    Plastic impellor was failing.

    New water pump, thermostat, fresh coolant and a new timing belt.

    €330 supplied and fitted.

    Is that a good price??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    ION08 wrote: »
    Finally got this sorted. It was the water pump that needed replacing in the end.

    Plastic impellor was failing.

    New water pump, thermostat, fresh coolant and a new timing belt.

    €330 supplied and fitted.

    Is that a good price??

    Not bad at all. Any price is a good price if it stops a bigger bill coming down the road.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    You won't get mayo in the oil with the way the gasket fails on these. These PD engines always blow between the cylinders and the water galleries and give exactly the symptoms you are describing.


    If it was blowing between the cylinder and water gallery it would be using coolant op said coolant was ok or it would build pressure and blow it out yhe cap.
    Sounds like a water pump to me as george said its easy to diagnose but get it sorted asap or you will definitly need a headgasket aswell.


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