Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi all! We have been experiencing an issue on site where threads have been missing the latest postings. The platform host Vanilla are working on this issue. A workaround that has been used by some is to navigate back from 1 to 10+ pages to re-sync the thread and this will then show the latest posts. Thanks, Mike.
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Attic insulation and flooring project question.

  • 04-01-2015 7:00pm
    #1
    A Law
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭


    I'm looking for some advice and tips.
    I plan on insulating my attic and putting a floor down in the next few weeks. I've read a lot of the threads and will be doing it like Benster here.

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=55173512&postcount=12

    As this was over 6 years ago is this still the best way? I plan on putting 7"x2" planks because the tanks are on these so they won't be sticking out through
    https://buildwithme.ie/timber-products-5/white-deal-rough/rough-timber-7x2-1

    I have 5" insulation and will be putting 6" more perpendicularly.
    https://buildwithme.ie/uval-knauf-earthwool-150mm-6-6-87mtr-sq

    url]
    url]
    url]
    url]

    One side of the attic has the joists perpendicular to the other so I'm not sure how to tackle that?
    There are a good few wires up there. Some grey, some white. Can I put the insulation over them? The original insulation is covering some of the grey wires.
    url]
    I was thinking of putting speedy hangers up on the gable to take some of the load but can only put them on one wall and I'll be using sheets of plywood for the floor. Before I tackle it is there anything else I haven't thought about or need to do?
    Thanks
    Joe
    Edit: I tried to embed photos but couldn't get it to work.


Comments

  • #2
    whizbang
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,947 ✭✭✭whizbang


    Do you really need to floor all the space???

    You will have major problems getting sufficient lengths of 7" up into, and positioned in the attic space.
    try it with a 12' length of plastic trunking. You can't bend 7" around uprights.

    No worries about cables, but make sure not to stretch them tight under new insulation.

    Insulation will be more effective if it is covered, but that still leaves gaps at the edges. you can run this stuff almost to the roofing felt, but it would be nice if someone provided a cheap and simple way of windproofing the edges


  • #3
    A Law
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭A Law


    Thanks for the reply. Now that you say it I probably don't need it all floored. I'll just do the half that is easiest. What do you reckon of the insulation I'm using? Should I put the 8" one down instead or a different type?
    ATB
    Joe


  • #4
    dathi
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,410 ✭✭✭dathi


    you can get plastic feet which are placed at the corners of the chipboard flooring to raise it above insulation might be handy for your roof also in your second photo you can see a plastic flexible vent pipe trailing along on top of the insulation this is very bad practice as the warm moist air cools inside the pipe and mold will grow inside pipe. should be done in solid pipe with the flex kept short . and the pipe should be insulated all the way up to where it exits the roof.


  • #5
    A Law
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭A Law


    I'll be replacing it so thanks for the tip. There's a puncture in the flex which isn't good for the attic with condensation I think. Only discovered it the other day. Thanks


  • #6
    A Law
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭A Law


    Planned on doing this at the weekend. Got the timber delivered today. Dont think I really thought about how much weight I was putting up there. My joists are 5" by 1.5". I only have one gable to put those speedy hanger things on so I can't support it all that way. Any advice? Really I'm after reassurance!


  • Advertisement
  • #7
    Benster
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭Benster


    Hi Joe, thanks for getting in touch, sounds like quite a fun time you have ahead of you. Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, work doesn't give much opportunity for surfing these days. It was like a trip down memory lane looking at those photos again, you can't see the floor now for the tons of crap that covers it...

    About the job, I can see you're doing things differently to me, and those speedy-things aren't something I'm familiar with so I can't really advise on them. Would they make the planks float above the current roof trusses? If you only get one side suspended like that, I would assume it would at least be some help with spreading the load, as you say.

    Regarding cables, one thing I had to do in some places was to cut a small channel out of the plank I was putting down so as not to pinch cables between the planks. When the cables were first installed, there wasn't much extra put in to enable a lot of movement.

    Let us know how you get on anyway. I'll have a post out soon about my latest project, getting the bogs linked up to a rainwater supply - putting the floor down seemed easy compared with that!

    Cheers,
    B.


  • #8
    A Law
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭A Law


    Thanks Benster,
    Started last saturday and putting on the finishing touches today. I'll put up a picture when I've all the excess timber out.

    I was panicking a bit on friday when i got the timber delivered with the weight i was putting up. I just wanted to make sure your ceiling was still in tact!

    A friend of the family came up and gave me a bit of advice, what wood I could cut out and how I would support it elsewhere. Essentially I put another floor base on the previous joists all attached to the existing supports. He ended up doing most of it.

    It's great now, loads of space.It was pretty complicated for someone who didn't know the ins and outs of roofing. Glad I did it now but half way through I was a bit dubious!


  • #9
    A Law
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭A Law


    Heres the finished attic. Last time I'll ever see it so tidy.2qusq55.jpg2uol2s5.jpg


  • #10
    dodzy
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,070 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Well done joe, nice work. Now to fill it with some shîte 😀


  • #11
    Benster
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭Benster


    That looks great, Joe, well done. Seriously jealous of your timeline to completion, it took me months!

    Is that a bit of padding I see around some of the joists? Sore head? :-)

    B.


  • Advertisement
  • #12
    A Law
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭A Law


    Benster wrote: »
    That looks great, Joe, well done. Seriously jealous of your timeline to completion, it took me months!

    Is that a bit of padding I see around some of the joists? Sore head? :-)

    B.

    Took some serious chunks out of my back! Had spare insulation from the pipes.

    Talking to the plumber and he said that I should put insulation between the rafters to stop the things in the attic getting damp. I have the clothes in vacumn pack but books and things just thrown there. Would it have any benefit do you reckon?


  • #13
    slimjimmc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,786 ✭✭✭slimjimmc


    Insulating the rafters is generally considered to be not cost effective.
    If your attic is well ventilated dampness shouldn't be a problem imo. I've kept tools, clothes, books and other items exposed in similar environment for years without any signs of dampness even during the wettest weather.


  • #14
    Benster
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭Benster


    Maybe if your attic was well sealed against drafts, it might be something to think about with the moist air not able to escape, but I wouldn't be an expert really. Our attic is so drafty you might as well be outside.


  • #15
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Benster wrote: »
    I wouldn't be an expert really.

    The ' drafts' in traditional attic are required to ventilate the moist air, that escapes from the heated envelope, that would otherwise rot the attic timbers Etc


  • #16
    asteroids over berlin
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,115 ✭✭✭asteroids over berlin


    Hi,

    that job looks amazing. Hoping to undertake this myself soon. I have bugger all experience, so a bit apprehensive. Anwya, can i ask (possible stupid question) i see there is wiring running over the insulation/rafters - did you place the floor boards directly over the cables or did you cut a groove in the rafter to accommodate the wires first?


  • #17
    A Law
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭A Law


    Hey,
    Its definately worth doing, i dont have to sent the heating to come on in the middle of the night anymore, so noticeably warmer. Only regret is that I didn't use 8" instead of 6" insullation but not sure it'd make much difference.

    I had two sets of wires, alarm wires and power. We kinda dealt with them as we came to them, doing out best to work around them. I think its okay to put them under the insullation and you're meant to take the notches out of the new rafters going down. Sometimes we didn't, the alarm wires were very thin so a small nick in the rafter did the job. (Think that's not recommended tho)

    You might need a plumber to put the pipes through the new rafters, I only realised this half way through. I was glad I had someone who knew what they were doing with me, I wouldn't have managed this on my own. Cost me a grand altogether, 700 for materials, 100 for plumber and gave the carpenter 200 but he was a friend. He put a lot of work in. Best of luck and dont be afraid to ask here, I know very little but theres always someone here to set you straight.

    And dealz is very cheap for L brackets, half the price of the building supplier.


  • #18
    budhabob
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,871 ✭✭✭budhabob


    Hi all,

    I appreciate the thread has been quiet for some time now, but I will need to insulate, and floor some (if not all) our attic. Its a 1950's build we've recently bought, and the insulation in the attic is almost worn away to nothing.

    In most of the threads I see that c.300mm insulation is recommended, with perpendicular joists used to build up the floor level. Has anyone used polyurethane (or equivalent) insulation. Insulation properties seem to equal the 300mm conventional insulation, but for much less depth. This wouldnt require all the work on the perpendicular joists. I havent found anyone who has used it, so I remain skeptical as to whether it would be effective or not.

    Thanks in advance,

    Rob


Advertisement