I just bought a Mamiya C330

aidanic wrote: »

I see you guys are all on the Fji Hunt chemistry, while I'm using Tetenal for colour and R09 for BW. My Maco delivery costs are alot less...

I just pick mine up in Gunnes whenever I run out. Delivery costs = nil.

I'd be dubious about the blix in those tetenal kits (it's dev/blix instead of dev/bleach/fix/stab right ?). Blix is inherently unstable due to its nature, seperate bleach and fix last for quite a long time but combined into a blix they can react with one another and go off quite quickly apparently. My one big c-41 dev fail was with a bunch of tetenal chemistry that was only a few weeks old.

Fajitas! wrote: »

We have two batches of E6 Tetanol chems, but can't find an expiry date - You reckon they're gone, Daire?

Are they mixed ? Or still sealed up ? No harm in trying a test couple of frames.

Fajitas! wrote: »

Still sealed - In fact, I only broke the seal on the boxes today.

I have to run a few washes through the machine tomorrow, and I'll see about running a roll through it tomorrow evening. I've never done my own slide dev before, so I'm trying cut down on as many variables for f*cking up as I possibly can.

The jobo I guess will keep the entire thing at a nice even temperature at least, right ? If the blix is gone you can always use C-41 bleach/fix anyhow. I've successfully developed slides in a diafine first dev and reversal followed by normal C-41.

Yep, it should do - We got it plumbed in, so there's a regulator bringing all the water in at the right temps, as well as the built in temp. controls. Hopefully we should be able to dev a tank in 15 mins tops - Can fit 20 sheets of 4x5 in too. Sweet!

The Kiev's are Hasselblad knock offs, without the copal/leaf shutter - 2nd hand HB's are going so cheap now, you'd be better off going for one of those

I think there was a kit on Adverts.ie for about €400. That was about 6 months ago now, but they're definitely going for cheaper than 1k - Look for the 500/501 c/m range. Nothing with a battery if possible.

If you really want to save money, buy the kit piece by piece - I think Thonda on here has been doing that - You'll get a body for 100 pounds, 150ish pounds for a standard 80mm lens, 50 for a back and 50 for a waist level viewfinder.

Fajitas! wrote: »

I think there was a kit on Adverts.ie for about €400. That was about 6 months ago now, but they're definitely going for cheaper than 1k - Look for the 500/501 c/m range. Nothing with a battery if possible.

If you really want to save money, buy the kit piece by piece - I think Thonda on here has been doing that - You'll get a body for 100 pounds, 150ish pounds for a standard 80mm lens, 50 for a back and 50 for a waist level viewfinder.

thanks for them tips. Il have a look
kev results look fantastic, havent seen many class ones from hasselblad
but could be just the case that people couldnt afford it and more variety of shots on display by the cheap knock off that is kiev [in regards to flickr]

Placebo wrote: »

kev results look fantastic, havent seen many class ones from hasselblad

And if you've some time on your hands, Clicky and Clicky. They were 'the' cameras to have for quite a while, particularly in fashion photography, though loads of photographers used them throughout the years, from Ansel Adams to Diane Arbus and Helmut Newton.

If you are not in a hurry, you can get good bargains on e-bay. Just keep on watching .com and .de pages. The cheapest bodies are EL/M (with motor) and you can get them for circa $120. My recent purchase was Sonnar 1:4 150mm for £99.
And because it was cold and humid, I didn't test it in the morning. Might do that now. Still have another body (500C for £159) to test too

Effects wrote: »

Sorry to hijack but this was the last thread with C41 discussed. I just developed a couple of rolls and when they dried there was spots on the film, some sort of sticky substance. Any ideas what it could be? My main question though is can I just wash them in water with some photo flo or should that not be done after the stabilizer? Would I be better off washing them in stabilizer again?

The stab bath is normally a rinse aid (like photo-flo or ilfotol) and some type of fungicide/bacteriacide or something. Formalin used to be used but I don't think it is any more. That's in there to avoid little critters munching away on the gelatine. They love it. B&W film doesn't need it because the silver in the emulsion does the job, being itself quite a potent anti-microbial agent. If you rinse again in just photo-flo you risk washing this out of the emulsion and your negs might get all gobbled up.

TL;DR : rinse again in stabiliser bath and see if that does the trick.