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Black sealer for exterior seams

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  • 11-09-2010 5:25pm
    #1
    corkbuoy
    Registered Users Posts: 152 ✭✭


    What is the recommended sealer to use to reseal the exterior seams of a camper and where can I get it. I'm looking for one which remains flexible. I have used Sikaflex 512 previously for other purposes but this is and adhesive type sealer.

    corkbuoy


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    #2
    stevire
    Registered Users Posts: 1,512 ✭✭✭stevire


    Tigerseal is what I've used on various jobs, highly recommend it but it's also an adhesive...


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    #3
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    when we had a t25 tigerseal was highly recommended and all t25 owners know about seams!


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    #4
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    corkbuoy wrote: »
    What is the recommended sealer to use to reseal the exterior seams of a camper and where can I get it. I'm looking for one which remains flexible. I have used Sikaflex 512 previously for other purposes but this is and adhesive type sealer.

    corkbuoy


    We use Sikaflex 221 and Wurth Bond and Seal . Both never let us down . Would you like the option of White or Grey either?


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    #5
    corkbuoy
    Registered Users Posts: 152 ✭✭corkbuoy


    Thanks Aidan M M

    I was looking for something that would allow removal of fittings if necessary, came across this one. Is the Sikaflex 221 similar ?

    "BUTYL SEALANT
    SIKALASTOMER
    Sikalastomer 710 butyl sealant is a high quality
    non setting sealant used for a variety of joints
    in caravans and motorhomes. It is especially
    suitable for those situations where there is the
    possibility of future disassembly, such as edge
    trim on motorhomes, caravans and boats,
    windows, rooflights and airvents etc. Due to its
    very sticky non-setting flexibility it is ideal for
    re-sealing of edge trims that have been sealed
    with ordinary non-setting mastics which dry
    out. Available in black, grey & white, size
    300ml cartridge.
    SIKA710B SIKALASTOMER-710 BUTYL SEALANT (BLACK)
    SIKA710G SIKALASTOMER-710 BUTYL SEALANT (GREY)
    SIKA710WSIKALASTOMER-710 BUTYL SEALANT (WHITE)"

    corkbuoy


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    #6
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    Butyl never sets, its desperate sticky stuff you'd be hard pressed to get a neat seam with it. Then you'll be hard pressed to paint it, then the paint will crack. Think of radon barrier tape.

    221 is a polyurethane perfect for seams and beads.


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    #7
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    corkbuoy wrote: »
    Thanks Aidan M M

    I was looking for something that would allow removal of fittings if necessary, came across this one. Is the Sikaflex 221 similar ?


    corkbuoy

    I've almost given up on 710 . We still stock it , but rarely use it . Anywhere it's exposed to sunlight it shrinks and cracks , and leaves a track for moisture ingress . It works well as a Gasket , ie where it's compressed between 2 pieces but not exposed . If you do use it , scoop the excess away with a spatula or similar that won't scratch the paint , then use petrol or better still Acetone to wipe it neatly in . But it won''t take paint successfully , As PAddyP said.


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    #8
    corkbuoy
    Registered Users Posts: 152 ✭✭corkbuoy


    I,m looking to reseat the aluminium / rubber strips on the corner joints of a Burstner. The black sealer under these is a soft flexible type allowing the strips to be removed if required. Which would be best for this ?

    corkbuoy


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    #9
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    Personally , the Sika/Wurth is what I'd use , for all the reasons given earlier . Anything though apart from Silicone Mastic!


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    #10
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    corkbuoy wrote: »
    I,m looking to reseat the aluminium / rubber strips on the corner joints of a Burstner. The black sealer under these is a soft flexible type allowing the strips to be removed if required. Which would be best for this ?

    corkbuoy

    If you use PU you will never be doing it again in the life of the vehicle I would imagine, if you use butyl it will dry out and you will be doing it again. Can you think of any reason you would want to remove the strips.

    If the strips are screwed also then here is another suggestion I came accross before when looking for info on resealing a hatch .. it overcomes is a good idea to prevent the butyl drying out.

    "We prefer that novices use an older idea to seal a troublesome hatch leak on older vans. Use a strip of 6mm x 12mm w/p foam rubber tape along the outside edge of the seal surface and then flood the inner area with Butyl Rubber sealant, such as Ezycaulk, to a degree that when the hatch is tightened down the Butyl rubber is forced into all the hills and hollows and the rubber tape keeps it from squeezing out and making a mess. The tape also keeps the air away from the sealant thus preventing it from drying out. When the hatch has been screwed down evenly and tightly then use silicone to seal the quadrants, each side and over the rivets. Then seal the top of the screws with a good dob of silicone. The important thing is to use plenty of sealant and don't concern yourself with waste."


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    #11
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Tec-7 or MS-11 both available in Black and as strong and flexible as you will find.
    I think they run 10-12 ish a tube.


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    #12
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Tec-7 or MS-11 both available in Black and as strong and flexible as you will find.
    I think they run 10-12 ish a tube.

    Don't get tec 7 black roof sealant though its not the same as the standard tec-7 products its bituminous and is half the tnsile strength or tec7 seems to be 11 euro in cork only 3.50 a tube locally here in homevalue hardware.


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    #13
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    Am I the only one who doesn't find Tec-7 all that good?


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    #14
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    Aidan_M_M wrote: »
    Am I the only one who doesn't find Tec-7 all that good?

    Nope, I came to the conclusion it was polymer decorators caulk.


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    #15
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    What were you trying to do with it? I find it great stuff, wet or dry. I stuck two wet stones together with it and no-one has been able to separate them yet.


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    #16
    Aidan_M_M
    Registered Users Posts: 2,213 ✭✭✭Aidan_M_M


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    What were you trying to do with it? I find it great stuff, wet or dry. I stuck two wet stones together with it and no-one has been able to separate them yet.


    It's rare that you'd need to stick 2 stones together , repairing a camper..lol:P

    I tried it on 2 pieces of timber , and put a run of Wurth on the same , the TEc7 pulled apart and the Wurth didn't . Hence I don't use TEC-7.


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    #17
    paddyp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,927 ✭✭✭paddyp


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    What were you trying to do with it? I find it great stuff, wet or dry. I stuck two wet stones together with it and no-one has been able to separate them yet.

    Its not a bad it just definitely not an 11 euro product more like 4 or 5
    Its no stronger than most silicone 23kg/cm2
    It sticks to wet things because its acrylic so do all other acrylic and most atmospheric curing polyurethane products

    For the same price you can get products that are two to three times as strong.

    Two wet stones is about as optimum a glueing test as you could have for an acrylic polymer


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    #18
    deadl0ck
    Registered Users Posts: 4,184 ✭✭✭deadl0ck


    Is this stuff any good :
    Geocel (formally Dow Corning ) Marine Silicone Rubber Sealant ?
    I had god some of this and was planning to use it to refresh some seals that were looking a bit dodgy on the motorhome, and then I saw this thread - was wondering now if I would be better getting some of the Sikaflex


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