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Complete HomeBrew Noob.

2

Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,923 ✭✭✭cloptrop


    Cool I just have to figure out how to get rid of the scum out of the bottom


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭Sky King


    Sounds delicious.


  • Registered Users Posts: 255 ✭✭Ronan cork


    i'm actually having a fantastic bottle of homebrew at the moment that a customer gave me and it's got me tempted to give it a try...the only thing im worried about is the smell as i live in an apartment and would have to keep it in my room and the door is usually closed...is anybody brewing in their bedroom and if so do your clothes etc smell like stale beer? would it be advisable or should i wait until i have a bigger place?
    thanks


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,914 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    It doesn't smell. Well, some Belgian and cider yeasts can produce a bit of a pong for the first couple of days, but most don't. Certainly none of them leave a smell on anything.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,533 ✭✭✭✭Krusty_Clown


    I'm about to bottle my second batch, and you wouldn't even know it was there, except for the occasional bubbling (which has woken me up the odd time, despite the fact that I brew downstairs and sleep upstairs (I'm a very light sleeper!).


  • Registered Users Posts: 255 ✭✭Ronan cork


    could i use an aquarium heater to keep a constant temp during fermentation? i've one for a 50L tank lying around. you can set the temp on it from 18-30


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,914 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Ronan cork wrote: »
    could i use an aquarium heater to keep a constant temp during fermentation?
    No idea. Why would you need that? Do you live in a greenhouse? Normal room temperature (17-22C) is perfect for ale fermentation.


  • Registered Users Posts: 255 ✭✭Ronan cork


    BeerNut wrote: »
    Ronan cork wrote: »
    could i use an aquarium heater to keep a constant temp during fermentation?
    No idea. Why would you need that? Do you live in a greenhouse? Normal room temperature (17-22C) is perfect for ale fermentation.

    Well no but I do like to air the place out every now and again! Was my understanding that a constant temp is very important so had been looking at brew belts and submursible heater things on the homebrew sites and they seem similar to aquarium heaters...


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,914 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Ronan cork wrote: »
    Was my understanding that a constant temp is very important
    Are you maybe thinking of wine cellaring? No such requirement for beer-making. Just don't let it get too warm, is all.

    People had been brewing beer for centuries before it was even possible to measure temperature, never mind keep it steady.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 852 ✭✭✭mayto


    Ronan cork wrote: »
    Well no but I do like to air the place out every now and again! Was my understanding that a constant temp is very important so had been looking at brew belts and submursible heater things on the homebrew sites and they seem similar to aquarium heaters...

    Brewbelts are good for keeping the beer from getting too cold, but you have to be careful it does not heat the beer too much either. Fermenting the the 18C to 20C region is usually an ideal range for most beers. If you ferment above 23C cecius you might get off flavours in the beer. I ferment in a wooden box with a lightbulb in it to genersate heat along with a temperature controller. A temp sensor is taped to one of the fermenters and the bulb comes on when it is too cold. During the summer I ferment in a fridge with a brewbelt around the fermenter.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    Anyone have a good first try recipe for a stout/poter?

    I'd want something nice and rich, not just something that tastes like guinness.

    Would like to limit it to LME/Spraymalt and maybe a kid as a base.

    Any ideas of what kit and what extracts to add? Also, any idea of what hops to use to offset sweetness?


    Cheers ladeens.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,914 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Seaneh wrote: »
    I'd want something nice and rich, not just something that tastes like guinness.
    Pump up the chocolate and crystal, so.

    Off the top of my head:
    2.5kg DME (any sort)
    300g Chocolate Malt
    200g Crystal Malt
    100g Black Malt
    30g EK Goldings @ 60 mins
    15g EK Goldings @ 10 mins
    S-04 Yeast

    20L will give you OG 1.052 and BeerTools expects it'll finish at 1.013.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,923 ✭✭✭cloptrop


    My inmate brew tasted nice , It however seems to be still fermenting, even though I froze it. I had it out the back garden and opened it this morning and it let out a huge burst of gas.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭Sky King


    I do that most mornings as well. I wouldn't worry about it.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 18,300 ✭✭✭✭Seaneh


    BeerNut wrote: »
    Seaneh wrote: »
    I'd want something nice and rich, not just something that tastes like guinness.
    Pump up the chocolate and crystal, so.

    Off the top of my head:
    2.5kg DME (any sort)
    300g Chocolate Malt
    200g Crystal Malt
    100g Black Malt
    30g EK Goldings @ 60 mins
    15g EK Goldings @ 10 mins
    S-04 Yeast

    20L will give you OG 1.052 and BeerTools expects it'll finish at 1.013.

    Was really hoping to avoid grains for a first batch but sure what the feck, go hard or go home!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭Martyn1989


    Seaneh wrote: »
    Was really hoping to avoid grains for a first batch but sure what the feck, go hard or go home!

    Kits arent much easier then extract as far as Im concerned. You still need everything sterile, and thats the most important bit. The most difficult part of extract is learning a bit about different grains and hops and what makes particular beer styles the way they are. You'll enjoy it more and end up with a better beer. Good luck!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭Sky King


    I am about to migrate to all-grain and for my first batch I intend buying a mash kit from the home brew company and that means I can learn to use the brew equipment in the early stages without getting to hung up on the grains. It's just handier not having that one extra thing to worry about.

    I'll learn recipe tweaking too at some stage as well of course :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭Martyn1989


    Sky King wrote: »
    I am about to migrate to all-grain and for my first batch I intend buying a mash kit from the home brew company and that means I can learn to use the brew equipment in the early stages without getting to hung up on the grains. It's just handier not having that one extra thing to worry about.

    I'll learn recipe tweaking too at some stage as well of course :)

    Just saw this comment now. Ive been interested in trying THC's mash kits, it avoids the left over ingredients that can be difficult to use.

    Heres a video a guy put on youtube where hes brewing THC's Irish Red mash kit, might be useful to you.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsA0n1ENU8M&context=C30634a4ADOEgsToPDskLQ6eXCl5IyqlHg9UxBn5Oa


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭Sky King


    Nice one thanks.

    I put the last pieces of my all grain micro brewery together last night so i'm looking forward to getting started.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭Martyn1989


    I did my first there a few days ago. Took a shade over 5 hours which wasn't too bad. Its looking good too!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 255 ✭✭Ronan cork


    I'm about to bottle my second batch, and you wouldn't even know it was there, except for the occasional bubbling (which has woken me up the odd time, despite the fact that I brew downstairs and sleep upstairs (I'm a very light sleeper!).

    Threw in the yeast Thursday night and it's been bubbling away ever since!! Wouldn't advise home brew in ur bedroom to be honest it's quite loud through a bubble airlock anyway and makes you want to pee a lot!! Quite a strong hop smell too but that's probably the 100g of cascade pellets I threw into it!!better than scented candles any day!

    Making a st peters ipa kit with extra wet hopping.
    Also went with an aquarium heater to control the temp as a damp problem means I have to leave the window open most of the day


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,533 ✭✭✭✭Krusty_Clown


    Ronan cork wrote: »
    Threw in the yeast Thursday night and it's been bubbling away ever since!! Wouldn't advise home brew in ur bedroom to be honest it's quite loud through a bubble airlock anyway and makes you want to pee a lot!! Quite a strong hop smell too but that's probably the 100g of cascade pellets I threw into it!!better than scented candles any day!
    From reading threads on this forum, you don't really need the airlock. So perhaps just cover the hole in the fermenter lid with some clingfilm, and make a tiny hole in the clingfilm with a pin. That'll do away with the loud bubbling.


  • Registered Users Posts: 255 ✭✭Ronan cork


    Ronan cork wrote: »
    Threw in the yeast Thursday night and it's been bubbling away ever since!! Wouldn't advise home brew in ur bedroom to be honest it's quite loud through a bubble airlock anyway and makes you want to pee a lot!! Quite a strong hop smell too but that's probably the 100g of cascade pellets I threw into it!!better than scented candles any day!
    From reading threads on this forum, you don't really need the airlock. So perhaps just cover the hole in the fermenter lid with some clingfilm, and make a tiny hole in the clingfilm with a pin. That'll do away with the loud bubbling.

    Thanks. Might try that tonight if it's still as bad


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,923 ✭✭✭cloptrop


    From reading threads on this forum, you don't really need the airlock. So perhaps just cover the hole in the fermenter lid with some clingfilm, and make a tiny hole in the clingfilm with a pin. That'll do away with the loud bubbling.

    In jail they just open the lid every 8 hours and let the air out.
    This however is donr with a plastic bottle . Im not sure what kind of expansion your vessel allows for.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,533 ✭✭✭✭Krusty_Clown


    cloptrop wrote: »
    In jail they just open the lid every 8 hours and let the air out.
    This however is donr with a plastic bottle . Im not sure what kind of expansion your vessel allows for.
    Ronan cork's fermenter has a permanent hole in the lid (for the air-lock). so if he covers it over (to prevent contamination), and leaves a tiny hole, he shouldn't need to open the lid at all. Good to know about the jail thing though. I haven't paid my property tax. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 936 ✭✭✭leggit


    I just put a lid loosely on top of mine, works fine and never had a problem, no noise out of it whatsoever!

    airlocks aren't necessary really, the co2 sits on top of the beer like a blanket since it's denser than the surrounding air.


  • Registered Users Posts: 426 ✭✭Baneblade


    the new version of the coopers kit does not use an airlock either the lid just sits on top of it
    the pressure from the gas just lifts the lid enough to let it escape and prevents any outside air from entering
    have not heard it making any noise either


  • Registered Users Posts: 255 ✭✭Ronan cork


    Thanks for your replies lads. It's my first brew so am trying to keep it simple. The bobbling slowed a lot after the first 48 hours but may try the cling film for my next one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 93 ✭✭Volovo


    Learning a lot from this thread, might try some brewing over the next few months..


  • Registered Users Posts: 386 ✭✭The Minstrel


    Just a couple of questions about the use of a Secondary in a kit-based brew:

    Am I right in saying that the reasons for using a secondary container are filtration and batch priming?

    Isn't the beer 100% fermented before being transferred to the secondary?

    And finally, I'm adding hops for dry hopping. When exactly should I add the hops? My understanding is that they should be added before fermentation has ended, so that must mean the primary container? What is the optimum point at which I should add the hop pellets?

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 936 ✭✭✭leggit


    Just a couple of questions about the use of a Secondary in a kit-based brew:

    Am I right in saying that the reasons for using a secondary container are filtration and batch priming?

    Isn't the beer 100% fermented before being transferred to the secondary?

    And finally, I'm adding hops for dry hopping. When exactly should I add the hops? My understanding is that they should be added before fermentation has ended, so that must mean the primary container? What is the optimum point at which I should add the hop pellets?

    Thanks

    Don't use a secondary myself but from what I know it's mainly for clearing up the beer, that is, getting off the sediment that sits at the bottom of the primary and trying to avoid any bits that might me floating in it. Personnaly I just couldn't be bothered :D

    Batch priming in the primary is fine, do it myself. Just try not to disturb the bottom sediment to much when stirring.

    dry hopping should be done a week before bottling in my view. So if you stick to the principle of primary for 1 week, secondary for two weeks then the you'd dry hop right in the middle of the secondary.


  • Registered Users Posts: 386 ✭✭The Minstrel


    leggit wrote: »
    dry hopping should be done a week before bottling in my view. So if you stick to the principle of primary for 1 week, secondary for two weeks then the you'd dry hop right in the middle of the secondary.

    I thought I had to add the hops before fermentation was finished. So, the hops should be added after fermentation and batch priming?


  • Registered Users Posts: 936 ✭✭✭leggit


    I thought I had to add the hops before fermentation was finished. So, the hops should be added after fermentation and batch priming?

    Batch priming should be done about 30min before bottling, you don't want the secondary fermentation to start until you've sealed your beer in a bottle.

    Hops aren't ferment so the fermentation process has absolutely no effect on them. It would just be my preferred taste to put them in a week before I was going to bottle. You can do it more or less depending on what taste you're going for, you can put them in for the entire process if you wish.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,904 ✭✭✭DeadSkin


    Have my second brew on the go, almost at the end of week 2, checked the SG the other day - was at 1.008, checked today & it's at 1.011, both readings taken at 19 degrees wtf :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,904 ✭✭✭DeadSkin


    Just made an appointment with optician today :o


  • Registered Users Posts: 255 ✭✭Ronan cork


    I was getting inconsistent readings for a while too...now I leave the hydrometer in the tube for a half hour to settle itself before taking a reading and it seems to have sorted it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,904 ✭✭✭DeadSkin


    Put on a Coopers ginger beer yesterday, used an extra light spray malt. Expected to see some evidence this morning of fermentation i.e that manky lookin' foam :P.
    All that's there is a thin[ish] strip of bubbles/foam across the top.

    With the last two ale kits I put on, the next day you knew fermentation was well & truly kicked off.

    I haven't used the extra light DME before, is this what is expected, is it a slower process?
    Thanks.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,914 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Doubt it's anything to do with your spraymalt. Sounds like the yeast is just a bit sluggish. But leave it, it's fine.


  • Registered Users Posts: 255 ✭✭Ronan cork


    After 8 days in the fermenter the water in my airlock levelled out (no bubbling and no pressure) and I got 3 readings of 1018 over 3 days which is a bit high but all signs were saying it's ready to bottle so I started collecting and cleaning bottles...luckily I decided to order some starsan and leave the bottling till next weekend as after 3 days of nothing, pressure has gone up and it's started bubbling again!!i didn't move the fermenter or anything it just started again on its own!
    So today I learnt to trust my hydrometer as my gut told me to bottle 2 cases of grenades!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,904 ✭✭✭DeadSkin


    BeerNut wrote: »
    Doubt it's anything to do with your spraymalt. Sounds like the yeast is just a bit sluggish. But leave it, it's fine.

    72 hours later and the top 4/5mm looks like thick sludge, no foam. Temperature is 21 degrees.

    The last 2 kits I did went all foamy about 3 to 4 inches in height within 24 hours. The first kit came with the Coopers DIY package, second was St.Peter's 3kg all malt kit[no sugar required].

    Any one do a Coopers ginger beer kit with spraymalt? Just don't know if this what I should expect to see!!
    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,904 ✭✭✭DeadSkin


    Been a week now & still no real evidence of fermentation - just that layer of dark brown sludge on top. Under that layer is what looks like, light brown icicle shaped sediment hanging/dropping from the layer.

    Lost cause?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,914 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Has the gravity changed?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,904 ✭✭✭DeadSkin


    Yep, just took a reading there, down to 1.006.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,904 ✭✭✭DeadSkin


    Suppose that's evidence something is happening, just that there was no foam was cause for concern.


  • Registered Users Posts: 255 ✭✭Ronan cork


    Hi guys. I started a wheat beer kit the other day but used white labs liquid hefe yeast instead of the packet. I forgot to let the yeaat warm up and pitched pretty much straight from the fridge...other than that everything went fine. I smelt it today and its pretty stinky. Kind of rotten egg smell.
    Anyone experienced this before?


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,914 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Yes. It'll pass.

    Fairly sure I mentoned this to you before. Ah yes, here we go. That.


  • Registered Users Posts: 255 ✭✭Ronan cork


    Yeah ok, fair enough. I'd say this smells more than a bit though which is why I asked. Really rotten smell off it, kind of sour but eggy at the same time. Just wondered if this is normal for a weisse yeast as it actually smells disgusting or if the smell indicates infection. I'm going to bottle it anyway but it would put me off doing a weisse again if this is normal for that type of yeast.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,904 ✭✭✭DeadSkin


    On the subject of infection, would there be typical 'symptoms' one would look out for?


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,914 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Beer that tastes awful would be the main one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,904 ✭✭✭DeadSkin


    Hehe, thought that alright BeerNut.
    Are there any 'in process' signs of a brew being infected or is it always something you only discover at the end?


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