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Front wheel knocking on bumpy roads

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2

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    #32
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    The same link is used for several different Subaru models, Impreza, Forester and Legacy Outback as well.
    Try Meyle HD, I have had good reliability from their HD range of Droplinks.


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    #33
    Special Circumstances
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,569 ✭✭✭Special Circumstances


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    The same link is used for several different Subaru models, Impreza, Forester and Legacy Outback as well.
    Try Meyle HD, I have had good reliability from their HD range of Droplinks.

    Indeed, the meyle HD were the best I could would find, eBay seller up the north had excellent prices. So far so good!


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    #34
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Special Circumstances wrote: »
    Indeed, the meyle HD were the best I could would find, eBay seller up the north had excellent prices. So far so good!
    Micks have 20% off Meyle atm.
    If you deal with them.


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    #35
    Mycroft H
    Registered Users Posts: 9,316 ✭✭✭Mycroft H


    Check your ball joints too. They can knock a bit when worn out.

    balljoints_sla.gif


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    #36
    Special Circumstances
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,569 ✭✭✭Special Circumstances


    Hal1 wrote: »
    Do I need to say it? buy cheap, buy twice. I would make sure the parts are oem quality. Try a local motor factors telling them you want oem parts.

    50yoyos (per side?) from local factors, they might even tell you the brand if you pushed them. They might even manage it without making it seem like a big deal.

    Willing to give the meyle hd a shot, I could indeed afford to buy twice or more compared to local factor price.


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    #37
    Special Circumstances
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,569 ✭✭✭Special Circumstances


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Micks have 20% off Meyle atm.
    If you deal with them.

    Were outta stock when I needed them.


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    #38
    FixitFelix
    Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭FixitFelix


    Anyone have a link to where I can buy a set of this roll bar bushes?? Went to 2 motorfactors neither had them and micks garage only have the rear ones in Stock


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    #39
    Special Circumstances
    Closed Accounts Posts: 7,569 ✭✭✭Special Circumstances


    FixitFelix wrote: »
    Anyone have a link to where I can buy a set of this roll bar bushes?? Went to 2 motorfactors neither had them and micks garage only have the rear ones in Stock
    You could try the diy fix suggested earlier. Ebay or dealer for new ones? I didn't find any "off the shelf" when I looked a while back.

    Have a look at opposedforces.com site for part numbers. Handy site in general even just looking at drawings of bits.


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    #40
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    I have done the fix I suggested on many cars, it lasts longer in many cases than new bushings.
    The old ones have hardened where they contact the bar and don't wear as fast as new soft ones.
    Whats the fix going to cost you in time?


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    #41
    FixitFelix
    Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭FixitFelix


    Ok will try the timing belt fix,now all I need is a timing belt haha

    Thanks lads


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    #42
    greasepalm
    Registered Users Posts: 5,256 ✭✭✭greasepalm 


    http://www.superflex.co.uk/

    handy place to get all types of bushes for many makes,we got steering rack bushings from them,hell of a lot cheaper than buying a new steering rack from toyota which was not available:eek::D


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    #43
    FixitFelix
    Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭FixitFelix


    greasepalm wrote: »
    http://www.superflex.co.uk/

    handy place to get all types of bushes for many makes,we got steering rack bushings from them,hell of a lot cheaper than buying a new steering rack from toyota which was not available:eek::D

    Just ordered this make off eBay on Saturday:-)
    Just waiting on them to be delivered so I can attempt fitting


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    #44
    FixitFelix
    Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭FixitFelix


    Well these finally came today!!!! Won't have enough time to fit them today so will go at it after work tomorrow:-)
    hopefully it sorts the knocking


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    #45
    visual
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,268 ✭✭✭visual


    Nip out tonight and spray a bit of penetrating oil on bolts tonight. Make job easier tomorrow.


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    #46
    FixitFelix
    Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭FixitFelix


    visual wrote: »
    Nip out tonight and spray a bit of penetrating oil on bolts tonight. Make job easier tomorrow.

    Didn't have a minute to do it today,will spray them tomorrow and fit them Sunday, do I grease both surfaces of the bushings or just the inside??
    Cheers


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    #47
    visual
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,268 ✭✭✭visual


    The outer side gets grease where its covered by bracket. Just clean the roll bar.

    The only thing the grease does is stop squeaks.


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    #48
    FixitFelix
    Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭FixitFelix


    visual wrote: »
    The outer side gets grease where its covered by bracket. Just clean the roll bar.

    The only thing the grease does is stop squeaks.

    Cheers bud


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    #49
    greasepalm
    Registered Users Posts: 5,256 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    we use a rubber grease/silicon to smear on the inside to allow it rotate with less friction.


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    #50
    Esel
    Registered Users Posts: 22,004 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    greasepalm wrote: »
    we use a rubber grease/silicon to smear on the inside to allow it rotate with less friction.
    How long does that last? Would it still be necessary with polyurethane bushes?

    Not your ornery onager



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    #51
    Beer Assistant
    Registered Users Posts: 284 ✭✭Beer Assistant


    Everything you need here.

    importcarparts.co.uk

    I use to get all subaru parts here


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    #52
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    insulation tape seems to solve alot of these problems.


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    #53
    greasepalm
    Registered Users Posts: 5,256 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    cant remember if the photo showed a lubricant to use,i myself not used polyurethane bushings but used the lubricant on standard ones.
    tech support.

    Home >>Technical

    General Handling of SuperFlex Products

    Remove all dust, previous bush residue, paint or old grease from contact surfaces, prior to fitment.
    Ensure any original outer shell is not inadvertently left in place. A common mistake where the old rubber bush has unbonded from its shell. In some instances the outer shell is intentionally left in place, as described in models and descriptions on our price lists.
    Do not fit new bushes to worn, rusty, or distorted fittings. Worn components must be replaced.
    Lightly coat bush contact surfaces with assembly lubricant (where supplied) prior to fitment.
    Insert the stainless steel tubes (where applicable) after the bushes are installed
    into their housing.
    Immersing high-interference fit bushes in warm water, can assist fitting in a very cold climate.
    Before the final tightening, suspension arms must be at normal ride height.
    When replacing original componentry, ensure that all nuts and bolts are tightened to original manufacturer’s specifications.
    Bushes must not come into contact with alcohol-based solvents such as MEK, methanol, or methylated spirit.


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    #54
    FixitFelix
    Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭FixitFelix


    Well changed the bushings just now, good news is all went smoothly the bad news is the knocking is still there


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    #55
    greasepalm
    Registered Users Posts: 5,256 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    ok back to diagnostics again,jack up car on right side and check for clunky movement in steering hands on wheel at 3 and 9 position move in out slightly any clunking indicating worn inner arm or worn ball joint.
    on ground other check is to grab drivers wheel as like your tightning and loosening wheel nuts check movement of wheel going forwards or backwards,need to recheck ball joint for wear also.


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    #56
    FixitFelix
    Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭FixitFelix


    greasepalm wrote: »
    ok back to diagnostics again,jack up car on right side and check for clunky movement in steering hands on wheel at 3 and 9 position move in out slightly any clunking indicating worn inner arm or worn ball joint.
    on ground other check is to grab drivers wheel as like your tightning and loosening wheel nuts check movement of wheel going forwards or backwards,need to recheck ball joint for wear also.

    Cheers mate will try that tomorrow,what I've noticed as the noise bad gotten worse and more frequent,my steering has become a bit sloppy(not as tight)


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    #57
    greasepalm
    Registered Users Posts: 5,256 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    aye common in worn balljoints car unsteady and could be dangerous.


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    #58
    FixitFelix
    Registered Users Posts: 3,057 ✭✭✭FixitFelix


    greasepalm wrote: »
    aye common in worn balljoints car unsteady and could be dangerous.

    Cheers mate so if I jack the car up and move the wheel with hands at 3 and 9 if there is movement it could be that?are they easy to replace?


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    #59
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    FixitFelix wrote: »
    Cheers mate will try that tomorrow,what I've noticed as the noise bad gotten worse and more frequent,my steering has become a bit sloppy(not as tight)
    Check the tie rod ends as well.
    edit, also have a look at the steering column to rack joint, sometimes they need to be regreased as the old stuff dries out and the joint becomes sloppy.
    Easy enough access under the dash.


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    #60
    wiz569
    Registered Users Posts: 1,694 ✭✭✭wiz569


    Also check the springs as they can also give that metal on metal knock if part of the spring breaks off.


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    #61
    Gosub
    Closed Accounts Posts: 874 ✭✭✭Gosub


    By no means an expert here, so bear with me. :)

    Could that noise be caused by droplinks?


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