Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Advice on painting a tractor

Options
  • 06-03-2012 9:18pm
    #1
    2pack
    Registered Users Posts: 616 ✭✭✭


    Ok I am going to attempt to paint my Massey Ferguson 290 tractor,
    I got a 50litre compressor and gravity fed spray gun,

    I have stripped out the cab and have cleaned the rust off

    I will be painting the body/chassis with MF Charcoal grey and as stated above the rest/panels with 2k red.
    I have a fairly big shed 55 ft by 35ft to do the work
    I would appreciate any advice from other members here on how to do a fairly good job on this tractor.

    Thanks


«1

Comments

  • Options
    #2
    101sean
    Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    First off, what sort of 2 pack is it, have you bought it yet?

    Reason I ask is the professional 2 pack is hazardous stuff, contains isocyanates and will wreck your lungs :eek: You are supposed to use a filtered air fed mask and be fully covered head to foot but my brother in law has used it in a well ventilated shed and a quality mask filter with no ill effects, your call!

    Apologies if you already knew that but I know of two people who've ended up in hospital from it. My local motor factor just hands it over with no data or hazard sheets, there is water based acrylic, safer but it's not as good. You can still get tractor enamel which is good old fashioned environmentally unfriendly proper paint which probably gives a more correct finish for older tractors.

    I only use military matt paint which hides a multitude of sins so hopefully someone who does a better job than me will come along with their experiences of actually applying it.


  • Options
    #3
    2pack
    Registered Users Posts: 616 ✭✭✭2pack


    hi, didnt know it was that dangerous, are all 2 packs the same ?
    Anyway got only a litre of it so far, guy mixed it up for me cost €26 a tin and give me half litre of hardner too.

    The shed itself is made of steel girders with galvanised sheeting so very airy and cold inside


  • Options
    #4
    101sean
    Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    No, the water based stuff is safer. Best bet is look up the suppliers website if it's on the hardener tin or go back to who sold it too you and ask for a datasheet. UK paint suppliers won't supply the hazardous stuff to the public, bit more lax here!

    I won't comment further on the safety as now you know it's up to you, I don't want to be sued for wrong advice! ;)

    When it comes to painting, dampen the floor down so you don't kick up dust and pick a warmer dry day, damp air isn't good. Wipe the panels down with panel wipe or cellulose thinners and use tack rags to lift off any final dust.

    If you haven't sprayed before, get a sheet of ply or use the shed wall and spray some emulsion paint to get used to how the gun sprays. You can use a paint cup to get consistency right but I get it fairly runny but so it still sticks to the side of a jug. Several light coats is less likely to run and the warmer the better. Red can also be a bit of a pain to get decent coverage.

    Like I said earlier, I'm only used to slopping military paint around, there's better advice out there!


  • Options
    #5
    2pack
    Registered Users Posts: 616 ✭✭✭2pack


    thanks, only got 1 ltr of 2k paint so wont go far and i can get the tractol enamel paint too and would probably do the job but finish may not be as good.
    the water based is more expensive and takes longer to dry i hear and dont your have to lacquer over it too.
    my shed is big and to be honest would never get it heated up.
    maybe the enamel paint would be best to use in these conditions


  • Options
    #6
    101sean
    Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Depends what you are looking for, 2 pack will give a harder shinier finish. Enamel will take longer to dry and may need finishing, some good advice on it here (Land Rover biased but well worth a read) - http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/index.html

    While we'd all love a big diesel heater in the shed, just pick a a warmer sunny day, forecasts aren't too bad at the moment, weekend and next week looking good.
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055579971&page=161


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #7
    2pack
    Registered Users Posts: 616 ✭✭✭2pack


    Sean could put a bit of hardner in the enamel to help it along and so will use it instead, two coats should be ok


  • Options
    #8
    101sean
    Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    I don't the answer to that one. I doubt if the hardener for the 2 pack will work as it's a catalytic reaction with the matching paint.


  • Options
    #9
    aujopimur
    Registered Users Posts: 3,953 ✭✭✭aujopimur


    Tractol enamel is available from Pat O'Gorman Wexford, 053 9255444 @ €15 per ltr..


  • Options
    #10
    TPM
    Registered Users Posts: 871 ✭✭✭TPM


    Tractol is made for painting tractors/machinery, I ve used it and found it very good, it sticks to nearly anything, good hard wearing finish when dry(stood up well to gorse bushes/hawthorn etc) and can give a very good finish.
    There are two types one for hand painting, and one for spraying(dries alot quicker)


  • Options
    #11
    mf690
    Registered Users Posts: 68 ✭✭mf690


    If you can get the bonnet and any panels cab doors etc sprayed by a pro and spray castings engine wheels yourself it can work out as better value in terms of time . I find bonnets etc very hard to get right alot of prep. work rubbing down filling and lots of other bits that effect the finish. If the bonnets etc look good you can get away with not being the best sprayer in the world on the rest.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #12
    2pack
    Registered Users Posts: 616 ✭✭✭2pack


    local paint shop says you can use a little 2k hardner with synthetic paint to help with drying and does no harm


  • Options
    #13
    2pack
    Registered Users Posts: 616 ✭✭✭2pack


    mf690 wrote: »
    If you can get the bonnet and any panels cab doors etc sprayed by a pro and spray castings engine wheels yourself it can work out as better value in terms of time . I find bonnets etc very hard to get right alot of prep. work rubbing down filling and lots of other bits that effect the finish. If the bonnets etc look good you can get away with not being the best sprayer in the world on the rest.

    yes did think of this too, I was going to let local panel beater spray the doors, (i took glass out so just the frames to do) bonnet, side panels, grill red and top section of cab white and was charging €440 and I supply the Primer + paint(they are all rubbed down and fully prepared JUST needs primer and painted to finish) but he says he will only use the 2k paint and wont use any other as says its crap.

    I was going to do the body of tractor with the synthetic paint but
    now means i would have to paint the cab frame and mudguards with the 2k paint as using the synthetic paint would clash with the doors etc if he done them in 2k wouldnt it?


  • Options
    #14
    roryq69
    Registered Users Posts: 77 ✭✭roryq69


    been using 2k paint for a while on old tractors. Restored 3 so far. working on no. 4. Was considering using tractol on this one as its alot cheaper and i intend to use it for work when finished(others are pure ornaments) can anyone tell me the do's and donts with tractol compared to 2k paint and any other handy tips would be appreciated. will try to post a few pics of my work so far!
    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/picture.php?albumid=2042&pictureid=12243


  • Options
    #15
    aujopimur
    Registered Users Posts: 3,953 ✭✭✭aujopimur


    I'm currently painting a car with tractol paint, I've given it a few coats myself and I'll get it finished off in a spray booth as my garage is too dusty.
    I mixed it wth 10% standard thinners, older painters recommend warming the paint and pot to make the paint flow better.
    I got a good shine on the coats I applied, but you need to give it a few warm days before you can cut it back as it needs air circulation to dry.
    It's being finished off this weekend, so here's hoping it turns out ok.


  • Options
    #16
    TPM
    Registered Users Posts: 871 ✭✭✭TPM


    Tractol paint cannot be used on road going vehicles because of the VOC content.

    You can use standard thinners (and I have) but it is recommended to use their own thinner.

    I sprayed a mini digger outside last summer results were good.
    make sure you use the VQD not the MK paint
    Touch dry in 20 min

    Its easy to use but floats wet so will stick to anything that is close by.

    http://mchc.ie/uploads/catalogues/Vehicle_Accessories_Catalogue_2006.pdf#page=74


  • Options
    #17
    2pack
    Registered Users Posts: 616 ✭✭✭2pack


    Thanks know a guy that puts a bit of 2k hardner into it to help it dry faster with no ill effects he says and thins it with tetrosoyl standard thinners
    I was hoping to get a good day this week to paint it outside just hope the midgets and flies keep away, still a bit of frost at night but it will hardly do the paint any harm if paint around 3 or 4 in the afternoon


  • Options
    #18
    kingstown
    Registered Users Posts: 208 ✭✭kingstown


    Nothing against Tractol paint but its just no good. Just ask any refurbisher of tractors and they will tell you to use Sparex paint - it simply does what is says on the tin. Top quality paint available in most Agri garages


  • Options
    #19
    Sami23
    Registered Users Posts: 2,176 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Hi Lads, just looking for some advice if you can help me. I am going to do a paint job on my 1984 MF 290 shortly and was wondering can any of you tell me what colour was the engine and chasis originally painted on these. I know some of the later years was painted charcoal grey but mine is a lighter grey. Its just there are a few light greys I'm not sure which one to go for. Thanks :rolleyes:


  • Options
    #20
    kingstown
    Registered Users Posts: 208 ✭✭kingstown


    Hi Sami23

    Have a look at the list below and it will give you the part number of the paint you require.
    Note there are a couple of different versions of Grey for the 290 in or around 1982 and your tractor my well have been built around that time (by the time it was imported / registered etc) it my well have been 1984

    If it is light Grey colour, i would go with the stoneleigh Grey. but check it before you spray

    Hope it helps....

    Dark Grey Chassis - dull dark Grey colour.
    Stoneleigh Grey Chassis - same as the later 35 and 135 range
    Charcoal Grey Chassis - this is a more of a '' dark chocolate'' slight brown type colour and covers well on a engine, but makes the tractor look newer

    MF12_480.jpg


  • Options
    #21
    Sami23
    Registered Users Posts: 2,176 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Thanks for the info Kingston, I think the Stoneleigh is the one I will go with as I only intend painting the engine and not the back end (lift arms etc.) so wanted to keep similar colour. I know most garages would probably go with the charcoal for the more modern look alright.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #22
    Pottler
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,073 ✭✭✭Pottler


    Hi 2Pack(great name for a painting thread!). I've sprayed probably close to a hundred or more forklifts(work) and always had to be done with enamel, not 2k. due to environmental restrictions. The primer coat is crucial, needs to be totally flat, filled, reprimed and key sanded and no colour deviations for the top coat to cover correctly and flawlessly.

    If you use Quick dry machinery enamel, don't use normal thinners, go for the same brand QD thinners, it is different. Normal will give a peely finish. Put on light coats, build it up over several coats, let it go fully dry and hard , wet sand and clean, then shoot a laquer coat over the top if you want a glossy finish.

    It is hard to get a good gloss somtimes with enamel if your shed is cool so heat really helps. A tip that I cannot reccomend but that some use is to warm the thinned paint in a plastic container in a microwave oven until it is warm, to improve the flow and get a good gloss. Obviously this can be dangeous and not to be done even if it does give a much better finish.

    When it has all dried, cut and polish with a powered mop to get a real good gloss finish. And above all, set the gun up correctly and don't practice on the tractor, pick somthing else like a piece of ply. Make sure the compressor is up to the job(it probably won't be:D) but if it isn't, you can get a good HVLP sprayer from Earlex (in B&Q) for about €100 or less that is much better than a bad gun and weak compressor set up.

    Most importantly, mask it up well, don't be mean with the tape and paper and treat it as fun and a learning experience. If you are nervous, you're already on a bad start - relax and let the paint flow.:) The green masking tape(also B&Q) gives a good sharp line for masking btw.

    Might be somthing in the above that's of some use. If you use 2k and don't have a booth, it takes an age to dry, is toxic as hell and will also pick up every fly, dust and dirt for a ten mile radius untill it has full dried.:) Start on the enamel, it's much more forgiving. A messed up 2k coat takes a hell of a lot of sanding back as well, it dries very very hard..


  • Options
    #23
    101sean
    Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭101sean


    Excellent advice there Pottler.


  • Options
    #24
    aujopimur
    Registered Users Posts: 3,953 ✭✭✭aujopimur


    Pottler wrote: »
    Hi 2Pack(great name for a painting thread!). I've sprayed probably close to a hundred or more forklifts(work) and always had to be done with enamel, not 2k. due to environmental restrictions. The primer coat is crucial, needs to be totally flat, filled, reprimed and key sanded and no colour deviations for the top coat to cover correctly and flawlessly.

    If you use Quick dry machinery enamel, don't use normal thinners, go for the same brand QD thinners, it is different. Normal will give a peely finish. Put on light coats, build it up over several coats, let it go fully dry and hard , wet sand and clean, then shoot a laquer coat over the top if you want a glossy finish.

    It is hard to get a good gloss somtimes with enamel if your shed is cool so heat really helps. A tip that I cannot reccomend but that some use is to warm the thinned paint in a plastic container in a microwave oven until it is warm, to improve the flow and get a good gloss. Obviously this can be dangeous and not to be done even if it does give a much better finish.

    When it has all dried, cut and polish with a powered mop to get a real good gloss finish. And above all, set the gun up correctly and don't practice on the tractor, pick somthing else like a piece of ply. Make sure the compressor is up to the job(it probably won't be:D) but if it isn't, you can get a good HVLP sprayer from Earlex (in B&Q) for about €100 or less that is much better than a bad gun and weak compressor set up.

    Most importantly, mask it up well, don't be mean with the tape and paper and treat it as fun and a learning experience. If you are nervous, you're already on a bad start - relax and let the paint flow.:) The green masking tape(also B&Q) gives a good sharp line for masking btw.

    Might be somthing in the above that's of some use. If you use 2k and don't have a booth, it takes an age to dry, is toxic as hell and will also pick up every fly, dust and dirt for a ten mile radius untill it has full dried.:) Start on the enamel, it's much more forgiving. A messed up 2k coat takes a hell of a lot of sanding back as well, it dries very very hard..

    Is Speedex enamal quick drying, if not can you recommened a quick drying enamel, or can paint dryer be added to speed up drying??


  • Options
    #25
    Sami23
    Registered Users Posts: 2,176 ✭✭✭Sami23


    aujopimur wrote: »
    Is Speedex enamal quick drying, if not can you recommened a quick drying enamel, or can paint dryer be added to speed up drying??

    aujopimur, do you mean Sparex paint ? as this is the paint I am going using as it was recommended to me over Tractol, Farm Line etc.

    Can anyone recommend a primer to use under my Sparex paint. I was thinking of using Lowes Rust Primer. Has anyone used this before ?


  • Options
    #26
    aujopimur
    Registered Users Posts: 3,953 ✭✭✭aujopimur


    Sami23 wrote: »
    aujopimur, do you mean Sparex paint ? as this is the paint I am going using as it was recommended to me over Tractol, Farm Line etc.

    Can anyone recommend a primer to use under my Sparex paint. I was thinking of using Lowes Rust Primer. Has anyone used this before ?

    Sorry, I did mean Sparex, I'm not sure about primer.
    I've used Isopon Zinc 182 urder a few different types of paint before, but as the old jeep I'm going to paint next has several different types of unknown paint on it, I reckon I'll have to use some type of barrier primer.


  • Options
    #27
    Pottler
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5,073 ✭✭✭Pottler


    aujopimur wrote: »
    Sorry, I did mean Sparex, I'm not sure about primer.
    I've used Isopon Zinc 182 urder a few different types of paint before, but as the old jeep I'm going to paint next has several different types of unknown paint on it, I reckon I'll have to use some type of barrier primer.
    You need an isolator coat and then bang on a decent high build primer. If you are going back to bare metal, use an acid etch - aerosols are readily available and are much easier than buying a full can - it's going to get flatted anyway so no need to worry about the finish. If you use filler to build out light dents etc, slap on a coat of primer as soon as it is sanded as it is hydroscopic and will absorb water and bubble through.

    Also make sure you are careful with your filler mix, too little hardener and it won't go off for an age if at all, too much and the unabsorbed hardener will leach through the topcoat and look awful. If it's a small panel you're filling a dent in, take it all back to bare(filler should only ever go onto bare, clean steel), and fill the whole panel, then flat sand the whole panel back to a smooth filled level- or the filled bit will stand out like a sore thumb when you get on paint.

    A D.A sander(I always used electric as the air ones eat CFM and a smaller compressor wont run one for more than spitting time) is brilliant and essential really for bodywork and painting. Again, you can get a grand one in B&Q for your own work, I often bought five or six of the Lidl ones, worked away with them and just binned them when they burnt out eventually. If you get a really good DA sander, you'll be spoilt and never want to go back! I got a lend of a mates Hilti one once, and never looked at my own ones in the same light again!

    I always used HVLP compressorless sprayers - they work with a blower and special type of HVLP gun(I started out using the Earlex one but as I got better/fussier, I shelled out for a pro one(think it was about a grand all in) and it was better(a Devilbiss), but the Earlex one was fine if you sanded back well between coats. And as a good rule, keep the gun level and a fixed distance from the panel at all times and don't stop, ever - move across and off the panel before letting the trigger go-same with the start, start off the panel and work the gun smoothly and steadily across and off for your stop. And keep your coat laps consistent for a smooth finish. Anyhoo.:D I'll shut it now..:D

    - just one last thing, aerosols have come on in leaps and bounds and if you are doing a smaller job, don't discount them - go to a good supplier and get a few cans filled with the paint of your choice(even amazing and weird long-shelf life 2k!)- it can be cheaper and even better than buying a set-up for a small amount of work. All aerosols are not created equal, a quick google will show you some absolutely amazing paint jobs completed with just aerosol cans, if you didn't know how they were done, you'd never guess.


  • Options
    #28
    kingstown
    Registered Users Posts: 208 ✭✭kingstown


    Cant really add anything to Potter's excellent post, only thing I would say is stick to the same brand i.e. use Sparex Universal Primer S.80037 with their paint and also their Thinners S.80019 Standard or S.80024 Quick Dry.
    If you wish to upgrade to 2K use their 2K Hardener S.80026 (Their thinners will work with both)
    They also have a Red Oxide primer and NK 910 primer for old surfaces or a wash primer for Bare Metal surfaces.

    The key to any paint job is preparation and getting the base finished and primed/sanded correctly.
    After that the top finish should be fine.


    Best of luck - maybe a before - during and after photo..? so we can admire your work..:)


  • Options
    #29
    Sami23
    Registered Users Posts: 2,176 ✭✭✭Sami23


    I bought a tin of Tractol Stoneleigh Grey but I'm not happy with the colour. It is coming out a very very light nearly off white colour compared to the original 290 coulour.
    I have a MF65 also which is the same colour as the 290 so don't know how it is so different ?
    Anyone got any opinions on Stoneleigh Grey ???????


  • Options
    #30
    Sami23
    Registered Users Posts: 2,176 ✭✭✭Sami23


    Hi again, can anyone tell me what the 3 warning symbols in the middle of this picture are for ?
    I presume the far left symbol is ignition and obviously the far right is headlight.
    Thanks
    41067_pic1.jpg


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #31
    benjy10
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭benjy10


    just resprayed the bonnet of my mf 168 with enamel red about 5 coats
    how soon can i compound and polish
    thanks in advance for reply


Advertisement