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70's bungalow, what to do to future proof?

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  • 01-04-2024 11:08pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 176 ✭✭


    We could do with advice on the best way to improve the insulation and heat retention in our 70's bungalow but we don't know what best to do. It's a cavity block build (not cavity wall) so pumping insulation into the walls isn't an option. The internal walls are dry-lined (70's style) so further internal insulation isn't an option either. In fairness we have no issues with dampness anywhere so it must have been a reasonably good job. We have oil-fired rads and an open fire but it's a cold house. Attic is insulated but floored over that so to improve it would involve lifting all the attic flooring and 40 years of accumulated 'stuff' and replacing the flooring up there.

    What about EWI? is it our best option? if we inquire from a EWI company obviously they will say go for it. We're in our 70's so long term investment isn't a factor, just comfort and future proofing ourselves in case oil or coal becomes overly expensive or even banned.



Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 14,289 ✭✭✭✭elperello


    Bite the bullet and clear out the attic while you can still get up there.

    Insulate the attic properly (300mm) and maybe put in a stove instead of open fire.

    Boiler might be due replacement.



  • Registered Users Posts: 875 ✭✭✭Anaki r2d2


    Hi, go take a bunch of photos. Post them here and people will help. You need to show doors, windows, attic, wall ventilation.

    It’s pretty interesting and people will help.

    40 years of stuff. If you have not touched in 12 months. You probably don’t need it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,823 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    What about EWI?

    What about it? It can be great IF you need it. You wont know until you test for heat loss. Ewi may not really make a meaningful difference but will cost you a lot. Get an INDEPENDENT** heat loss assessment/survey done first. Then decide armed with the information you need to make informed decisions.

    Air tightness (or lack of it) is likely (very often) a big player and can be relatively easily (and cost effectively) sorted as well as appropriate ventilation.

    **somebody not selling insulation, heat pumps, windows, SEAI grants, heating systems etc etc



  • Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭Tippbhoy1


    All a bit budget dependent.

    I second the air tightness comments. Windows and external doors are the biggest factor after that if older generations. if you can afford to replace if required. Then ceiling and wall insulation. Also, is the oil fired heating working ok and getting up to temperature.

    Open fireplace can lead to drafts, replace with a stove if you can.

    Even decent curtains can make a huge difference in winter. Also, most older houses aren’t suited to timber floors etc. and you really feel the loss of something as simple as a decent quality carpet. I’ve one bedroom carpeted and it is always about two degrees warmer at all times that the other bedrooms that have timber floors.



  • Registered Users Posts: 176 ✭✭Mo Ghile Mear


    Thanks for the replies!

    We'd ideally like to stick with our present oil fired system, and also keep our living-room fire if possible. We'll most likely replace the boiler and replace the open fire with a stove. Other than that we don't want to make huge changes or spend money other than what will optimise what heat we have, or waste money on a system that may not even be as good as we have. But we would consider EWI with the grant if it was going to be the right thing for us

    A heat loss assessment seems like sound advice. I found a list of registered advisors on the SEAI site. Some seem to associated with energy companies though, so how independent would their advice be i wonder? And roughly what would an assessment cost?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 270 ✭✭Grassy Knoll


    defo get rid of open fire, inset stove or a stove proper are the way to go



  • Registered Users Posts: 178 ✭✭Tippbhoy1


    Any time I’ve got an assessment from an seai accredited company it has been free. The one thing I will say is EWI insulation won’t do much for you if the ceilings aren’t properly insulated. Do both, or none at all.



  • Registered Users Posts: 370 ✭✭Biker1


    "SEAI accredited company" might give free advice but a registered Technical Assessor certainly would not work for nothing.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,433 ✭✭✭Field east


    get advice from friends/acquaintances that have some experience in the area. Do you know any builder ? Cost will be your BIG issue.

    It is well known for years that the three MAIN areas where heat can be lost are doors, windows and attic.
    Your doors may not be fitting very well, your windows are probably single glass / aluminium framed. And if double glazed are gone well past their ‘sell by’ date - the gas having leaked out.

    And your attic - if insulated- probably has a too thin layer of insulation and may have sagged over all those years and a new and much thicker layer will be much more effective.

    I f you have your own supply of cheap/ ‘free’ wood from , say, a friend/family member I would definately go for a wood fired stove. Otherwise consider other options. Open fires are a disaster because they cause a fraught up the chimney and as a result MOST Of THE HEAT produced goes up the chimney as a result

    Your boiler is probably very old. New boilers are much more efficeient. Carpets definately help to retain heat.

    Check your radiators that they are not full of gunge /deposit from rusting inside. If rads are old - say , 30 years old- you might consider fitting a new lot. Recent rad designs are much better designed. Consider fitting aluminium type foil behind them to reflect heat out. Put anti rust solution into tank to keep the rads topped up so as to counteract the rads rust ion from the inside.
    keep blinds down and curtains pulled in the night time to keep the heat in. If blinds are lattes make sure that they are turned the right way so that as the rising heat hits them it is deflected back into the room.

    Above is from my experience. Do’nt take my word for it but they are points that you can discuss with others. You will not have to tear the house apart re any of the above points and most of them can be done independantly of eachother

    PS If you can at all apply for the SEAI grant directly/yourself - a family member might help you. Ring SEAI up first to find out what’s eligible and get a decision on your application BEFORE YOU LIFT A SHOVEL.
    best of luck to ye



  • Registered Users Posts: 176 ✭✭Mo Ghile Mear


    All the windows are recently installed (5 years ago) double glazing, and front and back door are well fitting composite so they’re all good.
    Internal doors are all well fitting, no breezes.
    Rads all fairly new, less than 5 years old, but yea the boiler is vintage 😄 and we’re going to replace that.

    We’ve actually kept up fairly well with improvements over the years, … apart from the open fire. … and we will definitely be getting rid of that in favour of a stove.

    Living area is south facing with good light.

    Attic insulation is 300mm except under the flooored area where it’s obviously squashed.

    I reckon a quotation from an independent assessor is the way to go as it’s impossible to know where we’re losing heat and no point changing things unless we know it’s the right thing.
    Thanks for the advice… food for thought !



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  • Registered Users Posts: 625 ✭✭✭Private Joker




  • Registered Users Posts: 176 ✭✭Mo Ghile Mear


    Thanks . Yea we looked into that but it’s means tested so that rules us out. We worked all our lives, paid for everything, but are eligible now for very little, but see people around us who never worked and get all this stuff done free or well subsidised. But that’s another issue.

    We'll look into the SEAI grants though.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,823 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    It is well known for years that the three MAIN areas where heat can be lost are doors, windows and attic.

    Is it?



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