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15-06-2005, 09:54   #16
depadz
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had same problem as AnnR. When flushed downstairs toliet was a loud vibrating noise as cistern filled up.
googled it and turns out that it was as simple as replacing the ball part of the ball cock. cost about €3 and 5 mins.
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15-06-2005, 11:31   #17
 
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i get loud noise when tank is filling up,10 minutes duration.approx.
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24-06-2005, 07:49   #18
 
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water hammer.

There are two ways to sort this,

Either fit a water hammer arrester near the appliance with the problem (ie water tank)

Or remove the 1/2" copper pipe going to the water tank and replace as much of it as you can with 1/2" qualpex pipe.

Copper pipe offers no cushioning affect but plastic does,

The water hammer is causes when the tank is nearing its maintenance level and the water is flowing in so fast that the ball valve atarts bouncing up and down.

Sometimes you find that a low pressure reducing jet has been fitted into the ball valve when the house was built and over the years the main water pressure has improved and so the water pressure reducer needs to be changed for a white one.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Aqua masterHeating + PlumbingDublin City086 073 8198
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27-06-2005, 11:46   #19
annR
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depadz, what exactly did you replace it with and where did you buy it?
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27-06-2005, 13:17   #20
depadz
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i just replaced the ball bit.

woodies (or any of those places) - cost about €3. perhaps bring the old one with you (after tying up he arm!) so you get the right size...
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27-06-2005, 14:00   #21
crazy days
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Hey Dopey,


the best advice I can give is ignore everything else that was said,
your biggest problem may not be your noisy pipes but ill advice on how to fix it.

the problem is obviousally with the ball cock, they're not to expensive, I'd say repalce it, if your in Dublin, Davies of Harmonstown or Hevac on the Nass Road would be the best bet. AVOID WOODIES DIY.

Your looking for a half inch Ball Cock.
if you want to replace it it's pretty easy, knock off the mains water the valve is usually under the kitchen sink and its usually brass, go to your tank check the water is off by pushing the float down, if it is disconnect it from the inside of the tank via the 3/4 inch nut, replace with the new one.
Usually over time the parts housed in the ball cock become worn and shutter in hte valve casing creating an almighty banning sound which is amplified through the pipework.
water hammer a different problem is caused when high pressure in the pipework meets a restriction, and causes a banging noise.

Hope this helps.
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29-06-2005, 12:15   #22
rooferPete
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Hi crazy days,

Would you recommend a high or low pressure ball cock ?

.
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29-06-2005, 17:43   #23
 
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Ill say this again, get an equilibrium ballcock (with a copper float). The best one is made by peglars.
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01-07-2005, 11:37   #24
crazy days
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you need a high pressure on for mains water
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12-08-2006, 14:21   #25
GP
 
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we have the same noise problem after showers and flushing loo....

it only started a little while back after the water was switched off for maintenance at the local water tower.

Could this have caused air to get into the system and this is causing the noise ?


We've been in the house almost 2 years so maybe it's just a case of wear as suggested in other posts and the water being switched off / noise starting was a coincidence..


VERY frustrating..

Last edited by GP; 12-08-2006 at 14:23.
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12-08-2006, 18:09   #26
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The only poster that got it exactly right was -

Quote:
Aqua masterHeating + PlumbingDublin City 086 073 8198

There are two ways to sort this,

Either fit a water hammer arrester near the appliance with the problem (ie water tank)

Or remove the 1/2" copper pipe going to the water tank and replace as much of it as you can with 1/2" qualpex pipe.

Copper pipe offers no cushioning affect but plastic does,

The water hammer is causes when the tank is nearing its maintenance level and the water is flowing in so fast that the ball valve atarts bouncing up and down.

Sometimes you find that a low pressure reducing jet has been fitted into the ball valve when the house was built and over the years the main water pressure has improved and so the water pressure reducer needs to be changed for a white one.

He covered all the points needed.

Do the last one he recommends first though, it is the cheapest and usually the most effective. If you have a red jet in the ballcock, change it for a white one. They are only 50 cents and it takes two minutes to do.

If you are a novice, you can pop in a section of half inch qualpex if copper pipe is plumbed up to the ballcock. Just get a metre or two of qualpex and two Tectite 1/2 push fit joiners, and cut a section of the copper pipe out and pop in the qualpex.

Finally if all else fails, which you should not need to do, is get a water hammer arrester, and fit it close to the ballcock on the feed pipe to it.

Many mains feeds to ballcocks are 1/2 heavy duty hydrdare though, so check the pipe first. 1/2 heavy hydrodare has a 3/4 inch diameter.
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13-08-2006, 11:48   #27
GP
 
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That's great. Thanks very much. WIll check the jet to see what we have and follow the advice.

cheers
GP
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13-08-2006, 13:43   #28
eddiej
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Hi, when the heating comes on we get this same dadadadadada drilling noise which last for a few minutes till the system has settled is this caused by the same thing I have qualpex running to all the rads and just copper piping aroungd the hotpress the noise seems to come from the hotpress area
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04-09-2006, 10:40   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pipers
Ill say this again, get an equilibrium ballcock (with a copper float). The best one is made by peglars.
Is this what I need to get ?

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05-12-2010, 03:27   #30
NewGrad
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Water Tank Noise

The water tank in my attic makes alot of noise when it is filling.
It seems to be a combination of water hammer and the water filling into the tank.
I heard a silent ball valve may help, but have not been able to locate one.

Does anyone know where I could get one or am I better to use a water hammer suppressor?
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