Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi all,
Vanilla are planning an update to the site on April 24th (next Wednesday). It is a major PHP8 update which is expected to boost performance across the site. The site will be down from 7pm and it is expected to take about an hour to complete. We appreciate your patience during the update.
Thanks all.

Newbie needs help with starting!

  • 31-01-2021 12:53pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,259 ✭✭✭


    YAMAHA TDR 125 2002 is low to start with the choke.All new parts.
    So my son got his first bike and he loves it but starting it is a pain.Electric ignition.No kickstarter.

    I wont go into the long list of woes we had with it but we have figured that the previous owner didnt really put much into service wise.
    My son and I decided that we will keep it and get it back running great and put the money into it. He loves the bike so wants to keep it.

    So the main problem is starting.
    On the choke its very hesitant and really hesitates to get going.
    Once going and warmed up its fine and will re-start every time. Its the cold start on choke is the issue.
    I put a new/refurbed carb into it and it started fine but didnt run right*.Then started to leak fuel from the overflow pipe. I adjusted the float height and this cured that issue and then was fine but cold starting on the choke is becoming an issue again.
    I have tried all positions of the adjustment screw (I believe the yamaha setting is 1.5 turns out) and none of them give a good strong start.
    The screw is located on the rear of the carb so presumably it controls the air.

    Any pointers?
    TIA




    *I discovered that the reed valve gasket was in bits and the reed valves were not in good shape either so were replaced and made a big difference. Everything has been replaced from the petcock valve up to the plug so is effectively a new bike from that end with the exception of the rubber boots coming in and out of the carb and they look in good condition.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    What compression reading are you getting?
    It could be worn rings on a bike of that age.
    Another failure point can be be the crank seals.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,259 ✭✭✭koutoubia


    Thanks for that.
    No compression test done.
    Getting it up to a mechanic on Tues to get new tyres will get him to do compression test.


Advertisement