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Clutch Slipping??

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  • 23-04-2015 9:26am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭


    Hi All,

    Riding the bike into work today and the clutch felt like it was slipping on hard acceleration. The bike is fine on low acceleration but once you accelerate to about 6000 rpm it starts to slip.
    Bike had a full service only a month ago and I'm thinking it could be the type of oil used that's causing it.
    The bike only has 15000 miles on the clock and had no issues before the service.
    Any thoughts on this or do you think new clutch plates are required?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,707 ✭✭✭✭Tigger


    What oil was used in the service ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭nemoisback66


    Tigger wrote: »
    What oil was used in the service ?

    Unfortunately I don't know as it was done by a mechanic. I will have to check to see what was put in.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,311 ✭✭✭Chemical Byrne


    Is the clutch actuated hydraulically or by a cable? if the latter perhaps you should check the adjustment to make sure it is engaging fully.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,707 ✭✭✭✭Tigger


    It's said that you use car oil (designed for dry clutch) in a bike with a wet clutch the extra slippy stuff they put in can cause the plates to slip
    Something like 0w30 or 5w30 pure synth with em spec modifiers can cause it


  • Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭nemoisback66


    Is the clutch actuated hydraulically or by a cable? if the latter perhaps you should check the adjustment to make sure it is engaging fully.

    It's a cable clutch. I will double check the adjustment to make sure that it is pulling/releasing the clutch arm correctly.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,707 ✭✭✭✭Tigger


    Is the clutch actuated hydraulically or by a cable? if the latter perhaps you should check the adjustment to make sure it is engaging fully.

    I was also thinking this
    Did he tighten up the cable too much


  • Registered Users Posts: 481 ✭✭Faing


    Might help if you give the bike model, maybe other owners have had the same issue. Adjustment possibly, oil maybe, have you gone synthetic?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,245 ✭✭✭Fabio


    Check your cable adjustment first and then, if you cannot find out what oil was used, just do the oil yourself. 10w-40 semi-synth motorbike oil works for most bikes but check your manual first of course. As the guys above have said, incorrect oil might cause this to happen.

    If it came to it, checking the clutch plates, on most Japanese bikes at least, is actually easy enough so don't worry too much if you must go down that route.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,311 ✭✭✭Chemical Byrne


    I'd be checking the cable pronto, don't be driving it until you're sure that the clutch is engaging fully. If it's being held partially disengaged there will be big loads on the thrust bearing and it might fail prematurely.


  • Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭nemoisback66


    Faing wrote: »
    Might help if you give the bike model, maybe other owners have had the same issue. Adjustment possibly, oil maybe, have you gone synthetic?

    Bike is 01 Yamaha R6. Will ring the mechanic to check the oil type used.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭nemoisback66


    I'd be checking the cable pronto, don't be driving it until you're sure that the clutch is engaging fully. If it's being held partially disengaged there will be big loads on the thrust bearing and it might fail prematurely.

    Will be checking the clutch adjustment before I leave today. Fingers crossed that sorts it.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,311 ✭✭✭Chemical Byrne


    Is there any little bit of free play in the lever? There should be a little. If it's tight against the stop it probably needs adjusting.


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,174 ✭✭✭✭jimgoose


    Tigger wrote: »
    It's said that you use car oil (designed for dry clutch) in a bike with a wet clutch the extra slippy stuff they put in can cause the plates to slip
    Something like 0w30 or 5w30 pure synth with em spec modifiers can cause it

    You're referring to friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils conforming to the JASO MA/MA2 specification don't use them because they're formulated for wet-clutch setups. Synthetic vs. mineral has nothing to do with it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,884 ✭✭✭Tzardine


    I found that even running certain motorcycle oils can make the clutch slip.

    For example I put Silkolene fully synthetic into the Bandit 1200 and it slips like mad. Drained it out after 100 miles. No problems since.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,459 ✭✭✭zubair


    I had to replace the clutch on my sv only last week.

    The issue started with it slipping in every gear but I was able to stop this by adjusting the cable, there wasn't enough cable at the lever so I had to adjust it at the sprocket. After this it only slipped in 5th and 6th at 7k rpm under hard acceleration, I then changed the oil but that didn't improve anything, shortly after the clutch went completely.

    I'd suggest adjusting the cable at the lever and/or sprockets, change the oil, if it still slips get it to a mechanic or change the clutch.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,311 ✭✭✭Chemical Byrne


    How far have you driven it with slipping? If you've let it slip a lot the plates might be shagged up.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    What does a clutch slipping feel like? Does it make a certain sound? I was having issues over 6000 rpm so I want to rule this out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,174 ✭✭✭✭jimgoose


    What does a clutch slipping feel like? Does it make a certain sound? I was having issues over 6000 rpm so I want to rule this out.

    You'll hear the revs rise, or maybe rise-and-fall somewhat, without corresponding acceleration. It'll start when the engine comes on-cam and get worse as the clutch plates wear.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Cable clutch adjustment should be done firstly at the engine end, then the adjuster on the lever is for fine adjustment.
    You need about 10-12mm movement at the lever end, as the clutch and engine heat up the free play in the cable disappears and if there isn't enough the clutch can slip.


  • Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭nemoisback66


    jimgoose wrote: »
    You'll hear the revs rise, or maybe rise-and-fall somewhat, without corresponding acceleration. It'll start when the engine comes on-cam and get worse as the clutch plates wear.

    This is exactly what happens. On low revs up to 6000rpm it is pulling fine then when you open it up the revs increase and then catches grip later on.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭nemoisback66


    How far have you driven it with slipping? If you've let it slip a lot the plates might be shagged up.

    Only started this morning. So about 10km or so.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,459 ✭✭✭zubair


    What gears does it slip in?

    If it's only slipping a small amount to start with (unlike mine) I'd take a guess and say the cable adjustment will sort it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,000 ✭✭✭Wossack


    push on the actuator arm coming from the clutch itself - should be able to move it fractionally (1-2 mm if even) by hand. If it doesnt budge, it would suggest theres tension on the cable


  • Registered Users Posts: 142 ✭✭nemoisback66


    So a quick update. Stripped the bike down to inspect the clutch. Opened up the clutch casing and checked the plates. All were within the proper tolerance so its not the plates causing the slipping.
    The adjustment of the clutch arm was way off. The arrows weren't aligned correctly, so I reset the arm to its proper position and set up the free play on the clutch cable correctly.
    Tested it last night and working perfectly. Cheers for all the help guys.


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