Riello Boiler Problem

JamesM · 24-03-2009 10:16am

Traditional wrote: »

hi James ,
what can one do with contaminated oil ? its just black sludge in fuel filter and tank was just filled , can it be seperated ?
thanks

Dirty sludge and water will sink to the bottom of a container. The oil above it should be fine.
If you open an older filter unit to clean the filter element, you can find that the oil seal will have expanded and will not fit back in when you try to put it together again. If the filter unit is old, it might be better to replace the whole unit.
Jim.

JIMMYBOND007 · 25-03-2009 1:35am

you really dont keep up with the times do you?how am i changing subject??

you can not just walk in off the street and do an oftec course you have to be fully qualified in a trade.have you got proof of an oftec engineer doing that job out in blackrock!!!because if you dont thats a very bad comment to post on a thread.personally i think that comment is bullys/;t! i will enquire off oftec to see is this ture. if it was an oftec lad he should of not been near it as oftec is for oil boilers and rgi is for gas lads.rgi have a date already set i think its 26th of april,so any body caught after that will get fined.so just go do the courses and be done with them ,you never now you might learn something!where can you hire an analayser?because all receipts on analaysers have an id number so the shop that hires these out have to take engineers details so they can be located in case something goes wrong ! im glad rgi and oftec is coming in as it will ellimate all the cowboys and maybe oil and gas engineers will not get bad names for doing 15mins services!!good engineers will do service between 50-60mins ,then customers get there moneys worth and safe operating boiler. if you have to get a new boiler (gas or oil) it must be an oftec or rgi engineer installing it and commissoning it or the manufactors do not stand by the warrenty on the boiler.another thing is you can not commission anything anyway if your not qualified to do so!!;)
by the way rgi lads are board gais approved!!there all on board gais website as approved installers!!

JIMMYBOND007 · 25-03-2009 3:43am

contaminated in what way?wrong oil or water and sediment content?tanks may accumulate water due to condensation,the problem with the filter been blocked is water in oil storage tank can lead to microbiological growth which will block filters and cause appliance combustion problems.inspect tank for possible contamination by dipping the tank with water identification paste on a probe.water at the bottom of the tank should be taken out by dropping a tube connected to a hand pump down to the bottom of the tank.water can be drained by a drain valve if fitted.dispoable filters and seals should be changed annual on filter,if it has see through plastic cup change for aluimumin one ,plastic ones crack all the time.
if wrong oil was delivered ,remove oil from tank and refill again with right oil.

JamesM · 25-03-2009 11:15pm

JIMMYBOND007 wrote: »

you really dont keep up with the times do you?how am i changing subject?? you can not just walk in off the street and do an oftec course you have to be fully qualified in a trade.have you got proof of an oftec engineer doing that job out in blackrock!!!because if you dont thats a very bad comment to post on a thread.personally i think that comment is bullys/;t! i will enquire off oftec to see is this ture. if it was an oftec lad he should of not been near it as oftec is for oil boilers and rgi is for gas lads.rgi have a date already set i think its 26th of april,so any body caught after that will get fined.so just go do the courses and be done with them ,you never now you might learn something!where can you hire an analayser?because all receipts on analaysers have an id number so the shop that hires these out have to take engineers details so they can be located in case something goes wrong ! im glad rgi and oftec is coming in as it will ellimate all the cowboys and maybe oil and gas engineers will not get bad names for doing 15mins services!!good engineers will do service between 50-60mins ,then customers get there moneys worth and safe operating boiler. if you have to get a new boiler (gas or oil) it must be an oftec or rgi engineer installing it and commissoning it or the manufactors do not stand by the warrenty on the boiler.another thing is you can not commission anything anyway if your not qualified to do so!!;)
by the way rgi lads are board gais approved!!there all on board gais website as approved installers!!

I am afraid that you are more like M than 007. You seem to have a lot of knowledge about oil and gas burners, but I doubt that you have ever got your hands dirty.
Out in the real world, certainly the guys who service gas seem to be qualified, but the oil guys I know are the "old school" and do not have any qualifications.(although some are plumbers). Many of them have over 30 years experience.
You say "if you have to get a new boiler (gas or oil) it must be an oftec or rgi engineer installing it and commissoning it or the manufactors do not stand by the warrenty on the boiler." Any qualified plumber can install a new oil boiler, most of them have not heard of OFTEC.
I admit that there are cowboys out there, and that it might be a good thing to have some regulation, but there are no rules or regulations yet - as far as oil is concerned.
Also, this is a DIY forum. People ask for help, and those of us who have some experience try to advise them. We all know that the job should be left to a qualified (or experienced ) person, but maybe it's a cold weekend, or someone is a bit strapped for cash, and so we try to help them. Your advice on contaminated oil is helpful, but remember what forum you are on.
Jim.

Traditional · 26-03-2009 12:17am

hi James , thanks for that info on the sludge you were perfectly right the next day i cleaned out the oil filter and replaced the element ran off about a gallon of oil til it ran clear , vented the oil pump and up she started . ah i got a bit carried away in here and probaly said the wrong thing , but sure thats life !

Traditional · 26-03-2009 12:20am

jimmy what would you charge to clean out my tank ?

JIMMYBOND007 · 05-05-2009 2:45am

ha,ha jim"i never got my hands dirty"i started work at the age of 13,i have trade plus house alarm qualified and gis,gid,dsc(gas)+oft 50/101/105e/600a(oftec)plus cscs tickets for excavators and worked on oil tankers so i find that a little insulting,when you'v ploughed what i have harood jim come back to me then."many of them have 30years experience"ignorance is no excuse jim,they have to keep up with changing times.i do agree with you when you say any plumber can install a new boiler,but they can NOT COMMISSION THEM,Plumbers ring me all the time now to commission boilers for them,and that is ok as long as i carry out all safety checks and commission it for them.eg boiler manual"the boiler is guarnteed for a period of 12 months from the date of installation providing that any work undertaken is authorised by the company and carried out by an approved service engineer(oftec).theres talk of it coming in october this year,now if manufactors are supporting it and goverment are to ,do you think its not going to happen of course it is,so people will just have to get use to it.just like safe pass and nct has come in.i know its a diy forum and like you said"those of us who have some experience try to advise them"my advice is simple,i got a lad to look at my car a job that should of cost me 500 ended up costing me 3000 to get hole engine rebuilt ,so you learn from your mistakes in life(just like traditional didnt mean what he said about oftec lad in blackrock)anyway jim i know things are bad and people are strapped for cash if i can help them in anyway i will or advise them.
by the way jim what age am i??

thankx M;)

john paul · 30-09-2009 11:59am

Hi,
how can i tell if there is to much air getting to the boiler?
Is there any way of checking?
John Paul

PeteHeat · 01-10-2009 7:17pm

john paul wrote: »

Hi,
how can i tell if there is to much air getting to the boiler?
Is there any way of checking?
John Paul

Not really helpful for DIY however there are there ways,

1) Experience

2) Using flue a gas analyser they cost anywhere from €600.00 > €1200.00

3) There is a cheaper unit that you can use to do a "Spot Test" still costs around €200.00 for the kit.

I think you might find it better value to have your boiler serviced by someone who has the equipment.

.

bailey300 · 07-11-2009 5:38pm

Hi all. Hate asking a dumb question off you guys, but where is the bleed nipple on a warmflow internal boiler. (Usual story, let the tank run out, got a fill and the wee red reset button only works for 20 secs) I've researched enough to know about bleeding out the air and restarting it, but i can't find this bleed nipple. Have pulled off the front covers but not sure what is what. Tried googling to get a picture of this bleed nipple thing, but the results are hilarious, if not what I'm looking for

Any "Ann and Barry" descriptions much appreciated.

moylsie · 10-01-2010 7:37pm

hi guys
i'm having a similar problem to bailey here. let the oil tank run out, bled the system after we got a refill. now the system aint working at all, boiler not even firing. help!!!!! its freezing!!

demanufactured · 10-01-2010 7:57pm

JIMMYBOND007 wrote: »

ha,ha jim"i never got my hands dirty"i started work at the age of 13,i have trade plus house alarm qualified and gis,gid,dsc(gas)+oft 50/101/105e/600a(oftec)plus cscs tickets for excavators and worked on oil tankers so i find that a little insulting,when you'v ploughed what i have harood jim come back to me then."many of them have 30years experience"ignorance is no excuse jim,they have to keep up with changing times.i do agree with you when you say any plumber can install a new boiler,but they can NOT COMMISSION THEM,Plumbers ring me all the time now to commission boilers for them,and that is ok as long as i carry out all safety checks and commission it for them.eg boiler manual"the boiler is guarnteed for a period of 12 months from the date of installation providing that any work undertaken is authorised by the company and carried out by an approved service engineer(oftec).theres talk of it coming in october this year,now if manufactors are supporting it and goverment are to ,do you think its not going to happen of course it is,so people will just have to get use to it.just like safe pass and nct has come in.i know its a diy forum and like you said"those of us who have some experience try to advise them"my advice is simple,i got a lad to look at my car a job that should of cost me 500 ended up costing me 3000 to get hole engine rebuilt ,so you learn from your mistakes in life(just like traditional didnt mean what he said about oftec lad in blackrock)anyway jim i know things are bad and people are strapped for cash if i can help them in anyway i will or advise them.
by the way jim what age am i??

thankx M;)

That was insanely hard to read......

kenfab24 · 12-11-2010 12:14am

Hi all

i have a pellet heatin system and the water pump has to be changed out every year, when it has been shut off for the summer, im in my home 4 yrs and have had to get a new pump every winter, if any one knows how to recondision the pumps and what parts i would need it would be a great help to me and save me a few euro, as i couls do the work myself. i have tow pumps i could fix if i have the know how, any help i would be crateful.

thank you for you help inadvance.

dirtypipes · 12-11-2010 6:40pm

hi, this is my first post so here goes,

i'm always having to reset the dual stat on my riello boiler as it fails to start (although it makes all the right noises), so i'm assuming that this is my problem, just to be sure does anyone have a quick test to verify/check that it is indeed the problem. i pulled out the photo cell and cleaned it as it was quite dirty, but the problem remains. cheers.:)

ntpm · 13-11-2010 11:31pm

dirtypipes wrote: »

hi, this is my first post so here goes,

i'm always having to reset the dual stat on my riello boiler as it fails to start (although it makes all the right noises), so i'm assuming that this is my problem, just to be sure does anyone have a quick test to verify/check that it is indeed the problem. i pulled out the photo cell and cleaned it as it was quite dirty, but the problem remains. cheers.:)

Just for info:
Dual stat consits of a control stat that controls the temperature of the water and a High limit stat normally trips at 90-95C.
So your boiler is getting too hot and not able to reject heat.

usual reasons are as follows:
#1 Boiler needs servicing/ combustion chamber clogging up.
#2 Main control stat not switching off/ regulating properly.( replace dual stat).
#3 Circulation pump sticking/ fauly.
#4 Air in boiler... need venting or automatic air vent not functioning. Insufficient water / pressure in system.
#5 Ocassionally if the timeclock / stat turns of the boiler/pump the heat inside the boiler builds up and trips the high limit stat. Turn control stat to minimum and test for a few days.

Trial and error sometimes to find fault.

Moynihan14 · 03-10-2011 2:04am

Hey can anyone help me. I have a riello RDB 1 oil burner and there is no flame. Its starts ok and u can hear the ignition come in but then it locks out with no flame. I thought it was maybe the oil pump but this seems fine and filters are clear. I recently changed the nozzle and it ran for a few days but is now doing what i have described. Would this be a problem with the photocell? it is clean but would it have went faulty?

ART6 · 03-10-2011 8:03am

Moynihan14 wrote: »

Hey can anyone help me. I have a riello RDB 1 oil burner and there is no flame. Its starts ok and u can hear the ignition come in but then it locks out with no flame. I thought it was maybe the oil pump but this seems fine and filters are clear. I recently changed the nozzle and it ran for a few days but is now doing what i have described. Would this be a problem with the photocell? it is clean but would it have went faulty?

Assuming that there is oil spraying into the furnace then it's more likely that the igniter is not igniting it. This can be caused by the igniter electrodes being slightly displaced so that there is no spark between them, or that the spark is too far away from the burner nozzle to light the oil. If you can hear the igniter running then the spark is probably there, so the second cause is more likely. The electrode tips should be 4 mm apart and 2 - 2.5 mm from the burner nozzle. Carefully bend them if they aren't.

Walsh10 · 12-12-2011 7:53pm

hi rdb problem,flame established runs for 1 min then flame goes 7 sec later flame is established again this process repeats itself over and over untill i turn burner off, oil pressure is at 10bar (ker) oil pump is not jamming, photocell is clean maybe faulty.help plz

Walsh10 · 12-12-2011 8:25pm

hi help plz rdb problem.Burner fires up flame is good for 1min then flame goes 7sec later flame is good again,this process keeps happening until burner is turned off,oil presser is 10bar,oil pump is clean and free,photocell is clean help if you can

whizbang · 14-12-2011 1:49am

kenfab24 wrote: »

Hi all

i have a pellet heatin system and the water pump has to be changed out every year, when it has been shut off for the summer, im in my home 4 yrs and have had to get a new pump every winter, if any one knows how to recondision the pumps and what parts i would need it would be a great help to me and save me a few euro, as i couls do the work myself. i have tow pumps i could fix if i have the know how, any help i would be crateful.

have you stripped the pumps apart yet ?
most of the time its crud/limescale/rust/etc inside the motor armature.
usually these motors have flooded armatures and sealed from windings with a stainless steel tube that has to be close to the armature for the magnetic effect to make the armature spin. any crud buildup causes the armature to stop spinning.
If they are left running in this state the windings will burn out and smell is unmistakeable. then its a bin!
if not burnt, chances are you can clean it out.
then treat your system.

Billy Bunting · 14-12-2011 9:38pm

Walsh10 wrote: »

hi help plz rdb problem.Burner fires up flame is good for 1min then flame goes 7sec later flame is good again,this process keeps happening until burner is turned off,oil presser is 10bar,oil pump is clean and free,photocell is clean help if you can

Sounds like it could be fuel starvation, have you checked the pump filter, fuel filter, fire valve ??

cnocbui · 15-12-2011 4:31pm

Walsh10 wrote: »

hi help plz rdb problem.Burner fires up flame is good for 1min then flame goes 7sec later flame is good again,this process keeps happening until burner is turned off,oil presser is 10bar,oil pump is clean and free,photocell is clean help if you can

That sounds like the photocell is faulty. It can be clean and still not work.

Imstuck · 01-02-2012 10:17pm

I hope someone can help me! I have had a lot gone on with my boiler recently so here goes: 1: boiler found to be cutting off/ 5 secs, and blowing black smoke, cleared boiler out, cleaned photocell, new nozzle, nozzle should be, 1.25 60S, now found to be wrong one it is fitted currently with .65 80B. It started up after an intermittent start and the smoke was clear, although there was still smoke coming out of the exhaust? breather? Pipe that goes out of the base of the boiler casing, it ran on timer for half an hour, (it may have cut out before timer was up) Now I go to fire it and there is Zilch, nothing , not a sound, HELP PLEASE!!!
It is an RDB2.2 150kw

Billy Bunting · 01-02-2012 10:22pm

What boiler is it fitted to ?

Imstuck · 01-02-2012 10:40pm

Billy Bunting wrote: »

What boiler is it fitted to ?

Thanks for your quick response Billy, it's a firebird, I'll get the model in a minute!

Imstuck · 01-02-2012 10:54pm

Imstuck wrote: »

Billy Bunting wrote: »

What boiler is it fitted to ?

I can't see where it says what model it is, only the burner..... If you familiar with them the burner goes in near the top of the boiler with all the baffles etc down below, I thinkthey are the other way around more often than not?

Billy Bunting · 01-02-2012 11:04pm

You changed the nozzle from a 1.25gph to a .65gph, why? have you changed the air damper setting also, pump pressure ?

If you can tell us the exact model we can tell you the correct settings.

Has the burner reset button eluminated ??

Imstuck · 01-02-2012 11:27pm

Billy Bunting wrote: »

You changed the nozzle from a 1.25gph to a .65gph, why? have you changed the air damper setting also, pump pressure ?

If you can tell us the exact model we can tell you the correct settings.

Has the burner reset button eluminated ??

Had a relative/in law who is a plumber(he did plumbing 4 years ago in house) check all pressures fuel intake etc prior to getting new nozzle, the heating shop gave me the nozzle telling me that would be fine, although after reading more on the net I'm guessing this is not so. The burner reset button is not eluminated, and when pressed does nothing, I did press the button under the screw on the thermostat to see would it do the trick (reset button?) but to no avail.
I will get the model from somewhere tomorrow for the boiler it must be on it somewhere, it's pitch black out there now!

Billy Bunting · 01-02-2012 11:36pm

If the burner reset isnt eluminated then chances are you have an issue with something else,(though it will still need setting up) you tried the hi-limit stat and nothing, is there power out to the stat ? is the boiler hot ?? is the pump running ??

Imstuck · 02-02-2012 10:25am

Billy Bunting wrote: »

If the burner reset isnt eluminated then chances are you have an issue with something else,(though it will still need setting up) you tried the hi-limit stat and nothing, is there power out to the stat ? is the boiler hot ?? is the pump running ??

There is nothing running at the minute, at all, I'm going to check that there is power out to it now, the boiler is a Firebird, Condensing model, Enviromax Heatpac, 26kw is ticked.

Riello Boiler Problem

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