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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭rayman1


    CormacH94 wrote: »
    How to tell I've sized my chain correctly (or incorrectly)

    Any telltale signs for too long/short?

    The easiest way to size it correctly is to simply use the same size that came on the bike as new.


  • Registered Users Posts: 141 ✭✭Luxxis


    Hi All,

    are there any cheap options for the Sram XD freehub? 11 speed. Putting a mountain bike together and the wheels i got have that Sram XD freehub on the rear!

    Cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Luxxis wrote: »
    Hi All,

    are there any cheap options for the Sram XD freehub? 11 speed. Putting a mountain bike together and the wheels i got have that Sram XD freehub on the rear!

    Do you mean cassette or are you actually building the rear wheel? SunRace are making much more affordable cassettes.


  • Registered Users Posts: 141 ✭✭Luxxis


    grogi wrote: »
    Do you mean cassette or are you actually building the rear wheel? SunRace are making much more affordable cassettes.


    Yeah Cassette. SunRace nice one, I'll have a look.

    Thanks grogi.


  • Registered Users Posts: 136 ✭✭onlineweb


    Hi

    I'm getting a clicking noise when I move into the lowset gear - large cog. (Ultegra Groupset)

    So basically the chain is on the largest cog on both back and front of the bike.

    I was told that as a rule, I should not use large - large and small - small combinations.

    Any suggestions?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    You were told correctly - riding with big-big or small-small is called cross-chaining and it causes rapid wear of chain, rings and sprockets.

    The noise you hear is probably the chain rubbing on the cage of the front derailleur or the lower edge of the rear derailleur jockey cage.


  • Registered Users Posts: 136 ✭✭onlineweb


    Type 17 wrote: »
    You were told correctly - riding with big-big or small-small is called cross-chaining and it causes rapid wear of chain, rings and sprockets.

    The noise you hear is probably the chain rubbing on the cage of the front derailleur or the lower edge of the rear derailleur jockey cage.

    Cool, so I should avoid this combination.

    Do I need to take a look at the derailer or barrel adjuster or will I leave as is?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,594 ✭✭✭Deano12345


    onlineweb wrote: »
    Cool, so I should avoid this combination.

    Do I need to take a look at the derailer or barrel adjuster or will I leave as is?

    It’s probably adjusted correctly if you’re only getting a noise in the extreme end of the gears (big big or small small) . I’d always try and use my gears in such a way that I’m always at the middle of the cassette for most of the riding that I’d do, and if I am using gears at either end of the cassette, that I’m in the corresponding gear up front.

    In my experience, I find Shimano rear mechs pretty accommodating, it tends to be a lack of front mech adjustment that tends to lead to a rub!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,594 ✭✭✭Deano12345


    Bought a second hand disc wheel off eBay recently.

    Came with a 10 speed cassette which I needed to swap to an 11 speed.

    Took the cassette (Shimano if that matters) off with a lock ring removal tool and chain whip but now the axle is loose. Basically I can now pull the axle through and the freehub off.

    Everything sits together and moves smoothly, but it's like there's no preload on the bearings to keep everything in place. I've tried putting a cassette on to see if the lock ring did that but I didn't tighten it all the way up.

    Has anyone had something like this happen before? I assume I'm missing something simple! I can upload pictures of the hub/axle tomorrow.

    Have checked the exploded diagram on Corimas site and I have all the parts in the assembly in the correct way.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,809 ✭✭✭cletus


    Deano12345 wrote: »
    Bought a second hand disc wheel off eBay recently.

    Came with a 10 speed cassette which I needed to swap to an 11 speed.

    Took the cassette (Shimano if that matters) off with a lock ring removal tool and chain whip but now the axle is loose. Basically I can now pull the axle through and the freehub off.

    Everything sits together and moves smoothly, but it's like there's no preload on the bearings to keep everything in place. I've tried putting a cassette on to see if the lock ring did that but I didn't tighten it all the way up.

    Has anyone had something like this happen before? I assume I'm missing something simple! I can upload pictures of the hub/axle tomorrow.

    Have checked the exploded diagram on Corimas site and I have all the parts in the assembly in the correct way.

    If it was me, I'd just tighten down the locking on the cassette you have and see how it feels.

    Won't take more than a few minutes


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,809 ✭✭✭cletus


    Type 17 wrote: »
    You were told correctly - riding with big-big or small-small is called cross-chaining and it causes rapid wear of chain, rings and sprockets.

    The noise you hear is probably the chain rubbing on the cage of the front derailleur or the lower edge of the rear derailleur jockey cage.

    I've often wondered how this works on a 1x setup. So you lose a gear at the top or bottom of the range, or is the chain ring set to be aligned with the middle of the cassette, or what?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Deano12345 wrote: »
    It’s probably adjusted correctly if you’re only getting a noise in the extreme end of the gears (big big or small small) . I’d always try and use my gears in such a way that I’m always at the middle of the cassette for most of the riding that I’d do, and if I am using gears at either end of the cassette, that I’m in the corresponding gear up front.

    In my experience, I find Shimano rear mechs pretty accommodating, it tends to be a lack of front mech adjustment that tends to lead to a rub!

    That's what the trimming is for...
    cletus wrote: »
    I've often wondered how this works on a 1x setup. So you lose a gear at the top or bottom of the range, or is the chain ring set to be aligned with the middle of the cassette, or what?

    With 1x, the front chain-ring should be aligned with the middle of the cassette. But 1x still causes a bit more chain deflection than 2x:

    if you'd like to avoid chain angles larger than 2.5*, you'd loose two gears.
    http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=38&RZ=11,13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32,36,42,50&UF=2215&TF=90&SL=2.4&UN=KMH&DV=teeth

    2.5 degrees with 2x gives you all the gears.
    http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=34,50&RZ=11,13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32,36,42,50&UF=2215&TF=90&SL=2.4&UN=KMH&DV=teeth


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,115 ✭✭✭ironictoaster


    Quick question.

    I recently got a new bike however after a couple of days. I'm starting to notice a clicking sound when in the large chain ring in a high gear for every revolution. I checked obvious things like cables hitting the chain etc but I'm convinced it's the chain rubbing off the FR.

    Just wondering does anyone think this is a quick fix?

    I looked at a few videos and seems you change the limiting screws. I turned them slightly and retested and it seems not make a difference.

    Am I better off going back to the shop with this?

    Thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    cletus wrote: »
    I've often wondered how this works on a 1x setup. So you lose a gear at the top or bottom of the range, or is the chain ring set to be aligned with the middle of the cassette, or what?

    Middle of the cassette you'll lose high gears and low gears depending on the chainring size not due to the chainline, in fact only really high gears thanks to the new high range cassettes, especially on enduro mtbs etc.

    1 x is a better system imo as its simpler but just doesn't have the range on a road bike


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,615 ✭✭✭grogi


    Quick question.

    I recently got a new bike however after a couple of days. I'm starting to notice a clicking sound when in the large chain ring in a high gear for every revolution. I checked obvious things like cables hitting the chain etc but I'm convinced it's the chain rubbing off the FR.

    Just wondering does anyone think this is a quick fix?

    I looked at a few videos and seems you change the limiting screws. I turned them slightly and retested and it seems not make a difference.

    Am I better off going back to the shop with this?

    Thanks!

    Don't touch the limiting screws unless you physically moved the front derailleur. There should be a barrel screw somewhere on the shifting cable to regulate the shifting; unfortunately I've seen a trend where more and more manufacturers ditch it to save €0.50 per bike. Precise regulation is much more difficult then, as you have to loosen the cable at the derailleur.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,115 ✭✭✭ironictoaster


    grogi wrote: »
    Don't touch the limiting screws unless you physically moved the front derailleur. There should be a barrel screw somewhere on the shifting cable to regulate the shifting; unfortunately I've seen a trend where more and more manufacturers ditch it to save €0.50 per bike. Precise regulation is much more difficult then, as you have to loosen the cable at the derailleur.

    Thanks for that. Unfortunately I did move the screws. I should have taken a photo of the screws before moving them in hindsight...

    I think might bring it back to the shop.. I didn't know bikes need such fine tuning.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Thanks for that. Unfortunately I did move the screws. I should have taken a photo of the screws before moving them in hindsight...

    I think might bring it back to the shop.. I didn't know bikes need such fine tuning.

    They don't, if it was done right before delivery ;)

    If the initial click-every-rotation is still there, check if the right-hand crank arm is brushing against the rear of the derailleur cage or, if applicable, if the plastic chain-guard ring is brushing the derailleur cage (and clicking, as the gap in it behind the crank arm passes the derailleur).


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,997 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    onlineweb wrote: »
    Cool, so I should avoid this combination.
    not just big (up front) to biggest (at back) - you should try to avoid going from big up front to maybe the three biggest at the back. those gear ratios will be available - without cross chaining - going from the small up front to the gears on the middle at the back.

    it's common enough that if you want to change to an easier gear, but have travelled far enough up the cassette at the back, to drop to the smaller ring on the front while dropping two small rings down at the back.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,594 ✭✭✭Deano12345


    cletus wrote: »
    If it was me, I'd just tighten down the locking on the cassette you have and see how it feels.

    Won't take more than a few minutes

    That’s the plan for tomorrow anyway, was getting late when I was looking at it last night and I knew I would have done something stupid if I kept working at it!


  • Registered Users Posts: 136 ✭✭onlineweb


    not just big (up front) to biggest (at back) - you should try to avoid going from big up front to maybe the three biggest at the back. those gear ratios will be available - without cross chaining - going from the small up front to the gears on the middle at the back.

    it's common enough that if you want to change to an easier gear, but have travelled far enough up the cassette at the back, to drop to the smaller ring on the front while dropping two small rings down at the back.


    Sounds as if the combination of large large & small small can cause more trouble than they are worth due to wear and tear.

    Perhaps they should do away with them by removing the largest and smallest from the back cog. So you will have 9 cogs instead of 11.


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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,997 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    you mean keep the max ratios but narrow the cassette? too many gaps in ratio between gears then.

    it's not difficult to avoid cross chaining once you're aware of the concept.


  • Registered Users Posts: 136 ✭✭onlineweb


    you mean keep the max ratios but narrow the cassette? too many gaps in ratio between gears then.

    it's not difficult to avoid cross chaining once you're aware of the concept.

    Ok, cool.


  • Registered Users Posts: 199 ✭✭nialljf


    How much wear on rim braking surface is too much? Is it too much if I can feel any concave wear at all?


  • Registered Users Posts: 646 ✭✭✭Tony04


    onlineweb wrote: »
    Sounds as if the combination of large large & small small can cause more trouble than they are worth due to wear and tear.

    Perhaps they should do away with them by removing the largest and smallest from the back cog. So you will have 9 cogs instead of 11.

    Why would you do that?

    Theres no point cross chaining as it's an inefficient way of cycling anyway forgetting about the wear it causes to the chain.

    Using big ring big sprocket is pretty much the same gear ratio as using small ring middle sprocket and small ring small sprocket is the same gear ratio as using big ring middle sprocket.

    Getting rid of the big and small cogs makes no sense as when you pair big small you've your biggest gear or small big lowest gear.

    You can still cross chain on a 9 speed cassette and the cassette isnt even that much narrower anyway

    The advantage of 11 speed is not that you have 22 gears, with cross chaining and similar gear ratios you probably only have 16-18 it's that you can have a very low gear and a very big gear and very close gear ratios in between so no big jumps


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,735 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    Type 17 wrote: »
    You were told correctly - riding with big-big or small-small is called cross-chaining and it causes rapid wear of chain, rings and sprockets.

    I've read that cross-chaining isn't so big a deal with modern chains.

    Trying to find out where I read that (I didn't find it) led me to this, with SRAM being pretty blasé about it, while other manufacturers less so.
    https://road.cc/content/feature/cross-chaining-it-really-all-bad-213468



    However, my touring bike chain is I think one link too short, because I removed one link years ago to stop the chain slapping off the chain stay, and I kept the same length every time I changed the chain.

    But four years of cycling a bakfiets mean that I now hang around in the big chain ring most of the time on my touring bike, because of my greater leg strength. So now if I accidentally go big chain ring/biggest sprocket the chain jams. I probably should go back to living with the chain slap.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,735 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    nialljf wrote: »
    How much wear on rim braking surface is too much? Is it too much if I can feel any concave wear at all?

    When I was broke I kept running my wheels until one day the wall of the rear wheel deformed when I used tyre levers to get the tyre off.

    This is definitely too much wear! At that point I found some money and bought new wheels.

    I think if you can see concavity I'd schedule a wheel change for the near future, just to be on the safe side.

    Just to be clear, never run wheels to the point that the walls deform under relatively modest pressure, as I did!

    There's sometimes a shallow groove on the wheel wall that I think is meant to indicate excessive wear: if the groove can't be seen, it's time to change. Dara in Bee Cycles seemed to reckon these weren't up to much as indicators, if I recall the conversation I had with him correctly.

    This seems a reasonable method:
    520672.jpg
    https://cyclingtips.com/2016/11/when-to-replace-a-road-bike-wheel/


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 47,997 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    tomasrojo wrote: »
    Trying to find out where I read that (I didn't find it) led me to this, with SRAM being pretty blasé about it
    Talking about what pros do as if it's a plus is on odd one. Pros don't have to worry about paying for new drivetrains or about the work to replace them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,735 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    Yes, true, but SRAM seem to be saying that it doesn't cause a lot of wear anyway,as long as the chain isn't rasping on the cage.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,244 ✭✭✭saccades


    Tony04 wrote: »
    Middle of the cassette you'll lose high gears and low gears depending on the chainring size not due to the chainline, in fact only really high gears thanks to the new high range cassettes, especially on enduro mtbs etc.

    1 x is a better system imo as its simpler but just doesn't have the range on a road bike


    My MTB has 500% range, how much more do you need?

    My next road bike will be 1x


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,115 ✭✭✭ironictoaster


    Quick question.

    I recently got a new bike however after a couple of days. I'm starting to notice a clicking sound when in the large chain ring in a high gear for every revolution. I checked obvious things like cables hitting the chain etc but I'm convinced it's the chain rubbing off the FR.

    Just wondering does anyone think this is a quick fix?

    I looked at a few videos and seems you change the limiting screws. I turned them slightly and retested and it seems not make a difference.

    Am I better off going back to the shop with this?

    Thanks!

    Just an update on this. I brought the bike back to the bike shop. The mechanic seem pissed I was back so soon. He rode it around the car park and he said he could hear no clicks, second mechanic rode it heard the click and preceded to move the FR cage by hand. Problem fixed.

    Glad it's fixed now, customer service wasn't great but its understandable as they were flat out busy.

    Thanks for all help everyone. Happy cycling :)


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