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The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,665 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    What's the craic with these lidl chargers??
    I cycle the button to the motorcycle icon and it will charge the battery with I'm guessing a pre determined mix of voltages. But........why does it float charge (as in maintaining a steady voltage after going through its initial cycle) at such a low voltage???
    Both of mine that I bought wk before last allow the battery run down to like 12.7/12.8v which is imo not a winner. I'd like to see a steady 14v as I would with my other chargers or have I missed a trick with them?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,582 ✭✭✭newmember2


    H_Lime wrote: »
    What's the craic with these lidl chargers??
    I cycle the button to the motorcycle icon and it will charge the battery with I'm guessing a pre determined mix of voltages. But........why does it float charge (as in maintaining a steady voltage after going through its initial cycle) at such a low voltage???
    Both of mine that I bought wk before last allow the battery run down to like 12.7/12.8v which is imo not a winner. I'd like to see a steady 14v as I would with my other chargers or have I missed a trick with them?

    Your other chargers float charge the battery at 14V??


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,665 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    newmember? wrote: »
    Your other chargers float charge the battery at 14V??

    Yah, one at round 13.8 and other at 14. All my bikes have voltmeters fitted. I'm no expert on it but I took it to be the norm, you differ with that?


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,648 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato
    Restaurant at the End of the Universe


    14V is only half a volt (or less) than what you'd get when charging or riding it, all functioning well

    So it'd be charging the battery all the time, not just maintaining it.

    I haven't needed to leave the Lidl one hooked up continuously but afaik it's monitoring the voltage at 12.7/12.8V and when it drops below that it charges up to 14.4 and then goes back into monitoring mode again.

    What do the instructions say?

    Also you could try disconnecting it for a minute when it's at the maintenance voltage level, reconnect it, set it to charge and see how long it takes to hit full charge - should only be 5 or 10 minutes.

    It took a while but I don't mind. How does my body look in this light?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,665 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    14V is only half a volt (or less) than what you'd get when charging or riding it, all functioning well

    So it'd be charging the battery all the time, not just maintaining it.

    I haven't left the Lidl one hooked up continuously but afaik it's monitoring the voltage at 12.7/12.8V and when it drops below that it charges up to 14.4 and then goes back into monitoring mode again.

    What do the instructions say?

    Also you could try disconnecting it for a minute when it's at the maintenance voltage level, reconnect it, set it to charge and see how long it takes to hit full charge - should only be 5 or 10 minutes.

    I scanned the instructions but must have a better read.
    The initial cycling of higher volts only lasts a short while which hopefully is because my bat's are in decent shape. It's the 12.7 long term trickling that I'm cautious of but will admit to knowing little of what the ideal voltage is to trickle on longterm. As I say my other chargers are 14v.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 33,648 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato
    Restaurant at the End of the Universe


    I don't know whether floating the battery at 14V is bad for it, it sounds on the high side but presumably Optimate etc. know what they are doing?

    If it only takes a short time on charge to go from the maintenance voltage to fully charged then it's fine.

    It took a while but I don't mind. How does my body look in this light?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,459 ✭✭✭zubair


    Today.... I snapped my chain adjuster bolt.

    tenor.gif


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,232 ✭✭✭goblin59


    Whats-App-Image-2021-03-05-at-17-05-41.jpg
    some goodies from America arrived during the week
    Got my Tusk topbox and pannier mounts added to the DR.

    Pretty Solid set up, came with the brackets to convert ammo tins and pelican cases to quick release hard panniers


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,460 ✭✭✭omerin


    Changed the oil and filter, cleaned and polished 1 of the mufflers.

    Some observations
    jesus christ but there are some mumpties that over tighten bolts and nuts, filters, etc. Both nuts on the brackets of the exhausts were so over tighten through the years that they were practically rounded. I couldnt get one off without doing more damage. Replace fastners before they deteriorate and use a ****ing torque wrench

    Spend a couple hours washing, polishing, waxing and drying the bike but neglect the underside, guilty of this myself. Only really looked at it when i took off the skid plate to spray paint it, but well worth spending some time cleaning

    Manufacturers/resellers selling black accessories with silver nuts and bolts, sell black parts ye basterds

    Spray painting said bolts and skid plate and the paint chipping off when you tighten the bolts. Del uses Simonize, must try it


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    zubair wrote: »
    Today.... I snapped my chain adjuster bolt.

    tenor.gif
    Been there done that and bought the tee shirt

    Snapped both on the V :-(

    Did not bother trying to drill them out I just drilled and tapped a new hole just above the original

    But there are kits available if you wanted the bolt to remain in the center
    https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Chain-Adjuster-Bolt-Replacement-SAB-20-Swing-Arm-Buddy-2-Bolt-Repair-Kit-Saver-/281956256353


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  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    Usb charger with voltage
    came with a handy SAE to SAE extension lead will come in useful for the Air pump I carry in the top box
    Before starting the bike voltage was 13v and running fast idle 14.9V

    546010.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,459 ✭✭✭zubair


    Been there done that and bought the tee shirt

    Snapped both on the V :-(

    Did not bother trying to drill them out I just drilled and tapped a new hole just above the original

    But there are kits available if you wanted the bolt to remain in the center
    https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Chain-Adjuster-Bolt-Replacement-SAB-20-Swing-Arm-Buddy-2-Bolt-Repair-Kit-Saver-/281956256353

    Cheers for that, show stoppers like this annoy the F out of me. I just got up, walked inside and rang the garage, I've been dragging out the life of this chain anyway so it's going in to the shop for a new chain and sprocket too.

    You've made me feel a bit better about it so thanks for that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭Fox Mulder


    I am making some slow progress on the new front end for my Honda CB550. I got the hub I made laced into a black powder coated rim at my local wheel builder. He was able to lace all the spokes on the inside of the hub flange so there is a good amount of clearance between the spokes and the brake callipers which I was concerned about but it has all turned out well. Ideally I wouldn't have designed the fork spacing so wide if I knew I had this clearance but I think it looks OK.

    I have started on the lower yoke and completed it apart from some holes for the steering stop which I will hold off on until I have the tank mounted (I bought a Royal Enfield Interceptor tank to replace the Honda one). It still needs to be sanded down, vapour blasted and black anodised. There are some pictures below of it so far.


    Most of the machining complete. I will get it anodised black when I know where the steering stops need to be placed along with where I am going to mount the head light.
    March-06-2021-IMG-20210306-121224.jpg


    Started off as block which I rough the profile into. It is bolted from underneath into a fixture plate which I use for most of the machining operations.
    January-25-2021-IMG-20210125-165749.jpg

    Most of the machining on the top done. The bores for the forks and the steering stem are machined with a boring head.
    February-07-2021-IMG-20210207-174825.jpg

    The part is then flipped over onto the fixture plate and the bottom can be machined
    February-07-2021-IMG-20210207-181643.jpg

    Bottom being machined
    February-15-2021-IMG-20210215-180258.jpg

    Trying to orientate the part to machine the pinch bolt pockets and the slit
    February-24-2021-IMG-20210224-193858.jpg

    Using the slitting saw to finish the clamping section.
    March-03-2021-IMG-20210303-191927.jpg

    Test fitting on the forks. Its quite a relief when the callipers line up perfectly with the discs.
    March-06-2021-IMG-20210306-123022.jpg

    March-06-2021-IMG-20210306-122915.jpg

    Im not a stylist and when on the forks it does look a little plain and boring but hopefully when its anodised it will look better.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,665 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    Epic as usual.
    Can I ask about the caliper clearence issue you mentioned?
    Was it that the spokes were originally to be laced so they were anchored inside and laced outside the hub rather inside as it is now?

    Ps really wanna kidnap you and all your kit, no homo, but yeah totally keep you in a basement and only feed you when you make me things.


  • Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭Fox Mulder


    H_Lime wrote: »
    Epic as usual.
    Can I ask about the caliper clearence issue you mentioned?
    Was it that the spokes were originally to be laced so they were anchored inside and laced outside the hub rather inside as it is now?

    Ps really wanna kidnap you and all your kit, no homo, but yeah totally keep you in a basement and only feed you when you make me things.

    Yes, I originally planned having the spokes laced inside and outside. The clearance to the callipers was going to be very tight but I thought I would have approximately 5mm. Its difficult to know as I didn't have access to the exact rim I was going to use. I didn't want to reduce the width between the hub flanges to increase the clearance as I didn't know of any benchmarks that were less than what I had. Usually when designing parts at home I base the design on elements of an existing part so I know it's going to be safe without having to do all of the engineering. When I talked to the people at central wheel components in Birmingham they said they had plenty of experience with wheels spoked only on the inside with a comparable width between the hub flanges so I am happy to trust them. If the rim flies off while I'm riding I will let you know but I'm pretty confident combustion engine vehicles are all gonna be banned by the time I finish this project :-)

    Regarding the second part of your post I am calling the police :-) but the good news is you can instead buy yourself a small desktop milling machine and do the same stuff I am doing. It doesn't really take any skill other than patience.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,665 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    Fox Mulder wrote: »
    Yes, I originally planned having the spokes laced inside and outside. The clearance to the callipers was going to be very tight but I thought I would have approximately 5mm. Its difficult to know as I didn't have access to the exact rim I was going to use. I didn't want to reduce the width between the hub flanges to increase the clearance as I didn't know of any benchmarks that were less than what I had. Usually when designing parts at home I base the design on elements of an existing part so I know it's going to be safe without having to do all of the engineering. When I talked to the people at central wheel components in Birmingham they said they had plenty of experience with wheels spoked only on the inside with a comparable width between the hub flanges so I am happy to trust them. If the rim flies off while I'm riding I will let you know but I'm pretty confident combustion engine vehicles are all gonna be banned by the time I finish this project :-)

    Regarding the second part of your post I am calling the police :-) but the good news is you can instead buy yourself a small desktop milling machine and do the same stuff I am doing. It doesn't really take any skill other than patience.
    Having built two wheels now myself I find this interesting. Thinking about it I reckon the wheel builder may have faced a few challenges with the spokes laced in this fashion.
    He may have had more thread showing through the nipple this way and would have had to grind off the excess. The other thing he might have encountered is the tension required to seat the spoke in the nipple. As the spoke bend may not align perfectly it may have required a slight torquing to seat in the nipple.
    This is why I rebuilt my wheel as the spokes supplied to me by Central wheel didn't have the correct bend and I was unhappy with this as them being stai less and all.
    Either of these musing may not apply as I think about it as if it was built in central wheel (?) they would have altered the spoke bend in their jig.

    Ranting aside those are some meaty monoblocks fitted to a spoked rim which is no mean feat, as well I know.
    Keep on posting pics of the project its a real treat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭ronanc15


    Autosol is some job. Thought my exhaust system was sparkling until I gave it a lash. Unreal.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,459 ✭✭✭zubair


    ronanc15 wrote: »
    Autosol is some job. Thought my exhaust system was sparkling until I gave it a lash. Unreal.

    I sometimes wonder if autosol is doing the work or me, cleans up great but you have to use some serious elbow grease too. Harpic should be sold in Halfords for people like me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭ronanc15


    zubair wrote: »
    I sometimes wonder if autosol is doing the work or me, cleans up great but you have to use some serious elbow grease too. Harpic should be sold in Halfords for people like me.

    Ha, that thought definitely crossed my mind yesterday when I was buffing it to death, wondering when the last time I had scrubbed them as much. Answer: never.


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    zubair wrote: »
    I sometimes wonder if autosol is doing the work or me, cleans up great but you have to use some serious elbow grease too. Harpic should be sold in Halfords for people like me.
    The pipes on the V are looking a bit scruffy so I was thinking of giving them a clean but I am a lazy so and so
    Is autosol a paste?
    would it stay an any kind of a pad in a drill ? on low speed


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,582 ✭✭✭newmember2


    H_Lime wrote: »
    Yah, one at round 13.8 and other at 14. All my bikes have voltmeters fitted. I'm no expert on it but I took it to be the norm, you differ with that?

    Resting voltage for the battery should be around 12.8V so as far as I can remember, once the charger has it fully charged, it just sends a pulse every so often to maintain it at 12.8V.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,459 ✭✭✭zubair


    ronanc15 wrote: »
    Ha, that thought definitely crossed my mind yesterday when I was buffing it to death, wondering when the last time I had scrubbed them as much. Answer: never.

    Worth the effort. IMO clean downpipes really make a difference to how a bike looks. You see some sparkly bikes out there with crusty looking downpipes, ruins it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭ronanc15


    zubair wrote: »
    Worth the effort. IMO clean downpipes really make a difference to how a bike looks. You see some sparkly bikes out there with crusty looking downpipes, ruins it.

    Too true. It's kind of like lifting the bonnet of a car and seeing it's regularly cleaned underneath. Its not essential but its a decent measure of how much TLC has been applied.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,459 ✭✭✭zubair


    The pipes on the V are looking a bit scruffy so I was thinking of giving them a clean but I am a lazy so and so
    Is autosol a paste?
    would it stay an any kind of a pad in a drill ? on low speed

    Harpic power plus for people like you and I, let it sit for 3 or 4 minutes, then hose it down. Autosol on a rag afterwards to bring up the shine, minimal effort, shiny pipes.

    It goes without saying really to avoid getting the bleach on anything but the downpipes, including yourself,


  • Registered Users Posts: 655 ✭✭✭flashinthepan


    zubair wrote: »
    Harpic power plus for people like you and I, let it sit for 3 or 4 minutes, then hose it down. Autosol on a rag afterwards to bring up the shine, minimal effort, shiny pipes.

    It goes without saying really to avoid getting the bleach on anything but the downpipes, including yourself,
    Cheers will pick some up and give it go :-) only 2 pipes so should be able to manage it
    Hopefully


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,905 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    zubair wrote: »
    Harpic power plus for people like you and I, let it sit for 3 or 4 minutes, then hose it down. Autosol on a rag afterwards to bring up the shine, minimal effort, shiny pipes.

    It goes without saying really to avoid getting the bleach on anything but the downpipes, including yourself,

    Its actually acid, despite being called Harpic its not a bleach, and as such should not be used on bare alloy..


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,459 ✭✭✭zubair


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Its actually acid, despite being called Harpic its not a bleach, and as such should not be used on bare alloy..

    Yes it contains acid. Not sure you're suggesting it shouldn't be put on my or anyone else's exhaust though. Most stock exhausts are stainless.

    I've done this on all my bikes and never seen any negatives to it, they don't rust any faster afterwards or crumble away after using harpic. Usually I bleach and polish my downpipes once a year and could probably get away with 1.5 or 2 years before they really need it. Used daily, 4 seasons.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,665 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    zubair wrote: »
    I bleach and polish my downpipes once a year
    Hey live and live I say!:D
    Have you preferred pronouns we should refer to you by?


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,905 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    zubair wrote: »
    Yes it contains acid. Not sure you're suggesting it shouldn't be put on my or anyone else's exhaust though. Most stock exhausts are stainless.

    I've done this on all my bikes and never seen any negatives to it, they don't rust any faster afterwards or crumble away after using harpic. Usually I bleach and polish my downpipes once a year and could probably get away with 1.5 or 2 years before they really need it. Used daily, 4 seasons.

    No I am not suggesting that you don't use it on downpipes, I am just making others aware that it may react badly with alloy if it comes in contact with it, just in case people think it is bleach and not acid based.
    I'm all for making life easier but like a lot of powerful cleaners you have to be careful with them, including the alkaline cleaners that are also commonplace.
    Alloy is much more prone to damage and a small bit spilt on a footrest hangar can do a lot of harm to the finish.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,923 ✭✭✭D3V!L


    Decided to check the air filter on my 990 SM before it goes in for remapping with mototuning next week. Had to strip off the side panels and tank to get to it. All looked good and even found that the SAS had previously been deleted, so win win :)

    546447.jpg


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