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What are you working on currently?

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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,008 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i'd take that in a heartbeat except i don't have a bench to attach it to (that was on the list for this spring, but circumstances...)


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,141 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    JayZeus wrote: »
    They work perfectly well lads. Have used steel unistrut for years to do this with some old record sash cramps for panel glue ups and never any issues.

    So the unistruts are bolted together at both ends?

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,141 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Guys, only had one PM who is in Dublin who needs to inspects it so a non runner.

    I have put it up on Adverts but would prefer to find a good home for it in this community.

    Would exchange for a TS55...:D:D:D
    Keep safe and well

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,008 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i'd be afraid to ask how much the postage costs of that would be to dublin.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,141 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    i'd be afraid to ask how much the postage costs of that would be to dublin.
    It weighs 20 lbs/9kg.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    So the unistruts are bolted together at both ends?

    Yep. A nice simple fix.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,141 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    JayZeus wrote: »
    That's €100 all day long, any day.

    Another way to shell out
    https://youtu.be/0svjm_j8sXY

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 528 ✭✭✭G-Man


    Loft bed finally finished, deconstructed and then reconstructed at its destination -> One very happy teenage recipient!

    Might you have a description of materials. I think i could tackle something like that, but never found good enough wood here.

    Are they cup washers on screws or some other sort of fitting.

    The OSB - thats regular with varnish finish?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    G-Man wrote: »
    Might you have a description of materials. I think i could tackle something like that, but never found good enough wood here.

    Are they cup washers on screws or some other sort of fitting.

    The OSB - thats regular with varnish finish?

    Thanks

    Sure thing, the bolts are M6 pan head (H4 drive). Often referred to as cross dowel bolts, because they're so often used in knock-down furniture with cross dowel nuts but in my case with corresponding H4 joint nuts. The only disadvantage with this approach is the amount of drilling it requires per bolt:
    1. 1mm through pilot hole
    2. 13mm Forstner + 1mm depth countersink for the joint nut side
    3. 13mm Forstner + 1mm depth countersink for the bolt side
    4. 8.5mm + 17mm depth countersink for the joint nut side
    5. 6mm final hole through the remaining 1mm diameter pilot for the bolt itself

    So that's 5 holes for every countersunk bolt, and 3 for every flush bolt - every now and then I'd forget one of the Forstner countersinks and have to change to a plunge router to do that part (because you've lost the 1mm pilot guide hole).

    Examples on ScrewFix: https://www.screwfix.ie/c/screws-nails-fixings/cross-dowel-nuts-bolts/cat7280105 and these on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/323029106042

    The OSB and varnish;

    I use OSB/3 for the slightly better density and toughness.

    Standard varnish is fine - I used Ronseal Ultra Tough Satin Coat for this and had a can of Sadolins Extra Durable Clear Poly as back up. There's no order of preference there, the Ronseal can was already open, so it got used. The key with OSB is just patience, lots of coats, gentle sanding/wire wooling between and you can get a lovely satin or gloss finish depending on what you're shooting for, and of course treating the edges properly to ensure both they and the user are protected from splinters.

    Full disclosure; I noticed one big cockup in the bed during installation; I'd forgotten to put a 1/4 round moulding along the top of the OSB end panels - this means that there are two OSB edges out of sight but within finger reach. They're sanded, sealed and finished but still a weak point, so my friend is going to put a bead of sealant along them as a "just in case".

    I've lipped the OSB edges fixed with glue and many tiny dowels to ensure protection in places where they're really exposed, e.g. on the shelf that runs along side the mattress (for books, glass of water etc). Not sure if Squarespace will let me embed this but I'll give it a shot:

    IMG_20200413_100910.jpg?format=750w


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    https://photos.app.goo.gl/DjimFAvydJcAuRr6A

    You would think id now how to embed photos by now but i dont :rolleyes:

    Anyway made this greenhouse staging over the last few days. The wood is all bits and pieces i had lying around and some bits are warped unfortunately.

    It was my own design i just came up with which was a nice change. Got to really test my einhell table saw with all the long rip cuts.

    Edit: forgot to add it was 35°c in their today which was fun!


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,047 Mod ✭✭✭✭kadman




  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    AMAZING. great job thank you :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 BackInTown


    iamtony wrote: »
    AMAZING. great job thank you :D

    Nice work @iamtony. I’ve a polytunnel ordered for our allotment and will look at something similar. Were you worried about moisture or is the glass house pretty dry?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    BackInTown wrote: »
    Nice work @iamtony. I’ve a polytunnel ordered for our allotment and will look at something similar. Were you worried about moisture or is the glass house pretty dry?

    Thanks, do you mean moisture effecting the wood? It's usually dry in their theres plenty of ventilation. Its missing quite a few glass panels, as you see i patched up the back wall behind staging with some 6mm ply. The sun shines from the other side so i dont mind.
    I dont think the watering side of thinks will give it too many problems either as it should dry pretty quick.
    I thought about treating it with linseed oil as its natural and wont cause any problems growing food around it but i dont think ill bother to be honest i dont think it will need it. If it starts turning grey/blue ill do something then.


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 BackInTown


    iamtony wrote: »
    Thanks, do you mean moisture effecting the wood? It's usually dry in their theres plenty of ventilation. Its missing quite a few glass panels, as you see i patched up the back wall behind staging with some 6mm ply. The sun shines from the other side so i dont mind.
    I dont think the watering side of thinks will give it too many problems either as it should dry pretty quick.
    I thought about treating it with linseed oil as its natural and wont cause any problems growing food around it but i dont think ill bother to be honest i dont think it will need it. If it starts turning grey/blue ill do something then.

    Yeah I was thinking about moisture levels. I think the tunnels seem to be more prone to high moisture than glass houses, and if there is added ventilation then there's no reason to consider it. Thanks for the response!


  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    Simple small bowl from spalted beech. Largest blank turned so far (it's only 8" but I've just been doing smaller blanks to now).

    IMG_4363a.jpg

    IMG_4361a.jpg

    IMG_4366aa.jpg

    IMG_4367a.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    Had this idea rattling around inside my head long enough that I got annoyed enough to build it.
    MT2 arbour blank, box, some mounting hardware and a voltage regulator (connected up to a USB power bank out of frame), laser diode, collimator with cross-line screen.

    IMG_4355a.jpg

    IMG_4353a.jpg

    Plug it into your tailstock, line up the vertical line with the indexing plate's indicator that most modern minilathes have...

    IMG_4359a.jpg

    ...put on your chuck and now you have the piece's centerline indicated by laser to help beginners set up their tool rest height.

    IMG_4358a.jpg

    IMG_4360a.jpg

    I mean, everyone gets to where setting it by eye is second nature (I hope to get to that stage in a year or two :P ) and for spindle turning you'd need a magnet on the box or outrigger on the tailstock so it could still show a centerline on a spindle, but this is (a) a prototype and (b) mostly a way to get the idea out of my head where it was annoying me :D

    Would someone mind telling me what this thing is called btw? I've been trying to find it but nobody seems to make it and it's annoying me that I can't see how close I got to the manufactured one :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Double Barrel


    "Would someone mind telling me what this thing is called btw? I've been trying to find it but nobody seems to make it and it's annoying me that I can't see how close I got to the manufactured one"

    FWIW... my two tuppence ..... "a cylindrical laser axis centering device" :D. :cool::D:pac:;):rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    "Would someone mind telling me what this thing is called btw? I've been trying to find it but nobody seems to make it and it's annoying me that I can't see how close I got to the manufactured one"

    FWIW... my two tuppence ..... "a cylindrical laser axis centering device" :D. :cool::D:pac:;):rolleyes:
    Yeah thats a Clacd. Everyone kmows that. Short for what you said :D it looks like a great invention by the way!.


  • Registered Users Posts: 40,055 ✭✭✭✭Sparks


    Fire pretty! (but lacquer drippy :( I'll have to recut this with 00 steel wool and add another coat tomorrow I think. It's always that last coat that gets me...)

    IMG_4375a.jpg

    IMG_4374a.jpg

    IMG_4373a.jpg

    IMG_4376a.jpg

    Ash blank, about 5" across, burned the rim with a propane torch, brushed with a steel brush, burned again, cleaned with compressed air, sealed and rubbed gold embellishing wax into the grain before finishing all over with carnuba wax and lacquer.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Your skill set and your photography are out of my league, looks great.


  • Registered Users Posts: 549 ✭✭✭chillyspoon


    Sparks wrote: »
    Fire pretty! (but lacquer drippy :( I'll have to recut this with 00 steel wool and add another coat tomorrow I think. It's always that last coat that gets me...)

    Ash blank, about 5" across, burned the rim with a propane torch, brushed with a steel brush, burned again, cleaned with compressed air, sealed and rubbed gold embellishing wax into the grain before finishing all over with carnuba wax and lacquer.

    You're really dialling those in now Sparks - absolutely lovely work.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    The black and pale gold effect is georgous.


  • Registered Users Posts: 964 ✭✭✭Guru Maith Agut


    Screw related question..



    Anybody know a european term for these screws (must have a wider head than the pan head screw)?

    I am looking for an 80/100mm length screw and not have to use a washer with it to get the same result as this screw would give.

    grabber-wood-screws-23365-64_1000.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 19 Siobhan82


    Dave! wrote: »
    Hey folks,

    Not sure if there's a thread for this already, but direct me to it if there is!

    Thought it'd be good to share what we're working on currently and our progress, etc.

    After all sorts of problems I've completed the build of a BBQ side table for my friend. Gonna finish it during the week and then get rid of it! The frame ended up a bit twisted which has meant I had to hack the sh*te out of the legs to get them even. Just hoping my friend's patio is flat, or we'll have to stick a few beer mats under it! :o Got quite acquainted with my new circular saw today, wasn't as intuitive as I assumed to get a clean straight cut with it, but I'm quite comfortable with it now!

    https://twitter.com/davemcginn_ie/status/772535698939383813

    Next project is a quite narrow hall table for my sister's house. Been looking forward to starting on this one! Was browsing Pinterest the last few days for ideas. Bought the timber today, have a good idea how I'll do it.

    I must say I'm impressed as I'm working mostly on my tan ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,354 ✭✭✭jack of all


    Screw related question..



    Anybody know a european term for these screws (must have a wider head than the pan head screw)?

    I am looking for an 80/100mm length screw and not have to use a washer with it to get the same result as this screw would give.

    grabber-wood-screws-23365-64_1000.jpg


    Try looking for "washer head screws" or "flange head screws"


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭glynf


    Screw related question..



    Anybody know a european term for these screws (must have a wider head than the pan head screw)?

    I am looking for an 80/100mm length screw and not have to use a washer with it to get the same result as this screw would give.


    Spax do a T25/30 torx washer head in 6 x 100mm.






  • Registered Users Posts: 12,141 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    glynf wrote: »
    Spax do a T25/30 torx washer head in 6 x 100mm.




    even up to 280, which I got!

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    Try looking for "washer head screws" or "flange head screws"
    i searched the image on google and it came up with wafer head screws also.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭iamtony


    RalIThj.jpgu9mRi9I.jpg
    fkI710x.jpg

    Simple little kitchen or toilet roll holder made from a gift box the missus brought back from the states. Not finished.


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